those are just rubber hoses. You can source them from any auto parts store. They do not have to be specific from Toyota. Just make sure they are rated for ATF fluid.
Power Steering Pump and Hose Replacement - FAQ (1 Viewer)
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I found this guide very useful when I rebuilt my PS pump and replaced all the hoses last year. I had a hard time getting the high-pressure line out, though, because even after pressure washing I still couldn't see the bolt holding the bracket to the frame!
If you don't have hams for forearms, you can probably reach the fastener from above, without removing the skid plate. Here are a couple of photos to make the location more obvious, the bolt is highlighted in green:
I am pretty sure my pump is not doing so well these days, so I'll probably be doing this soon. Someone earlier in the thread mentioned getting a rebuilt pump for like $160. I found this one on the same site for $87, or $190 less than a new OEM pump. It seems like a really good deal to me, and saves me the effort of rebuilding my current pump. Is there any reason not to go with a rebuilt pump in this case?
Because you don't know who rebuilt it, how good of a job they did, or how worn all the internals are. I'm assuming they just put in a new bearing and seals and don't get into things like examining the vanes for wear. By all means put in a rebuilt, but I'd keep the original and rebuild it as a spare. The Gates kit is something like $20, plus the bearing.
Thanks.
I just added it to my cart and found out that price doesn't include a $110 deposit for sending in your original pump. I'll do a bit more research and go from there.
Once you experience the joy of replacing that pump you may find that you have no desire whatsoever to do that job again any time soon. Therefore a new OEM pump is preferable.
Once you experience the joy of replacing that pump you may find that you have no desire whatsoever to do that job again any time soon. Therefore a new OEM pump is preferable.
Speaking of that, I happened to have my alternator out already when I tackled the PS pump and I was confused about all the comments about how hard it is to pull. If you need to do the PS pump, I highly recommend pulling the alternator. Replace the brushes while you have it out.
Most of what needs to be dealt with on the left side of a 1FZ is significantly easier when you peel the onion back.
X eleventy billion. My 80 is 21 years old and has 250k miles on it. The starter and AC compressor went out very close to one another. I decided against rebuilding either. My alternator, fuel filter and PS pump were all original. I decided to order new Denso starter, alternator, AC compressor and AC dryer. I also ordered the PS pump rebuild kit. I already had an OEM fuel filter on the shelf. Lastly, I ordered the bearing, PS low pressure hoses and the charcoal canister hoses that the phhkit guy sells.Speaking of that, I happened to have my alternator out already when I tackled the PS pump and I was confused about all the comments about how hard it is to pull. If you need to do the PS pump, I highly recommend pulling the alternator. Replace the brushes while you have it out.
I like to travel to the desert multiple times a year and since all these original parts lasted 21 years and 250k, I simply paid extra for Denso and OEM and figure I should be good until 500k.
ALL of this was sooooo much easier to do as a group rather than one at a time...especially that fuel filter. Plus you can easily get the alternator out when the PS fluid reservoir is out for hose changes. No need to remove the battery tray doing it this way.
Smitty
mdawg
SILVER Star
Once you experience the joy of replacing that pump you may find that you have no desire whatsoever to do that job again any time soon. Therefore a new OEM pump is preferable.
Agree! In fact, so much so that I bought a new PS pump from him a couple of years ago
So I did this on Saturday with a rebuilt pump. Seems to be working well. This guide was very helpful! A couple things:
1. I didn't know the bolt that attaches the high pressure hose (44411-60430) to the pump is big. Like 22 or 23mm? I didn't even have a socket for it. And if I did I am not sure how I would have gotten a ratchet in there anyway. So I took the pump and the hose out at the same time and then took the hose off in the open with a 7/8th (I think) socket that I did have. Similarly, we attached the new hose to the new pump before putting it in.
2. I don't have an impact wrench, so I used channel locks, a rag, and a breaker bar to get the gear nut off. My channel locks were barely big enough, and some wider ones would have been ideal to get a diametrically opposed grip on the gear.
3. Getting the gear seated on the new pump, I heeded the caution here to do it as best I could to avoid clicking. We used a socket over the spindle and pounded the gear on with a hammer. After that we put the nut on and tightened it to 54 ft-lbs. Once we got the pump back in, there was no clicking. Side thought: Is this gear for sale by itself? It would be nice to not have to even pull the gear. I have no idea when the next time I will use this gear puller is.
4. We got everything hooked up and did the no-power method of bleeding the system described above: jack the front up, have a friend look at the fluid level while you turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off. Stop when it's just about to overflow, and wait for air bubbles to come up and lower the level again. Add fluid as needed Do that over and over until it's stable. We didn't find it necessary to do it again later that day, since it was still very full in the reservoir. I will check again tomorrow.
1. I didn't know the bolt that attaches the high pressure hose (44411-60430) to the pump is big. Like 22 or 23mm? I didn't even have a socket for it. And if I did I am not sure how I would have gotten a ratchet in there anyway. So I took the pump and the hose out at the same time and then took the hose off in the open with a 7/8th (I think) socket that I did have. Similarly, we attached the new hose to the new pump before putting it in.
2. I don't have an impact wrench, so I used channel locks, a rag, and a breaker bar to get the gear nut off. My channel locks were barely big enough, and some wider ones would have been ideal to get a diametrically opposed grip on the gear.
3. Getting the gear seated on the new pump, I heeded the caution here to do it as best I could to avoid clicking. We used a socket over the spindle and pounded the gear on with a hammer. After that we put the nut on and tightened it to 54 ft-lbs. Once we got the pump back in, there was no clicking. Side thought: Is this gear for sale by itself? It would be nice to not have to even pull the gear. I have no idea when the next time I will use this gear puller is.
4. We got everything hooked up and did the no-power method of bleeding the system described above: jack the front up, have a friend look at the fluid level while you turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off. Stop when it's just about to overflow, and wait for air bubbles to come up and lower the level again. Add fluid as needed Do that over and over until it's stable. We didn't find it necessary to do it again later that day, since it was still very full in the reservoir. I will check again tomorrow.
I'm about to take this monster of a task on for a leaky, whiny system on my 1997 LX450 w/ 190k miles on it. I do have a small leak and my system whines like crazy - especially at startup. The strange thing is that my reservoir is full. I haven't driven the truck on the road much since buying it because I've been sorting through other issues - this will be the last step before she's road worthy.
Anyone know where I can get the best parts for the best price? There seem to be lots of offerings on ebay, but I'd rather spend a little more on a quality pump to avoid having to do this ever again.
Thanks and wish me luck!
Anyone know where I can get the best parts for the best price? There seem to be lots of offerings on ebay, but I'd rather spend a little more on a quality pump to avoid having to do this ever again.
Thanks and wish me luck!
Just get the rebuild kit from RockAuto. Or check one of the countless threads on parts sources. Or buy a new one (I think) from Toyota for ~$390 (44320-60182).
Power Steering pump - rebuild or replace?
Rebuilding a Rebuilt Power Steering Pump with Aftermarket Parts
COYS
SILVER Star
I had a good experience dealing with Norwalk Toyota for the first time, parts and service. I bought a new OEM radiator, w-pump, and tstat from them at a competitive price. I see that they sell the power steering pump at $270 online. I wouldn't hesitate to give them my business again.
Power Steering Pump - Toyota (44320-60182) | Toyota Parts
Thanks for info, gents! I'll make sure to post once I've taken care of it. Hoping to do it all next weekend.
So I recently replaced my pump for the third time this year:
So the third time I made a video:
I hope people find it useful. It goes along in tandem with this thread.
- The first time was replacing the (probably) original pump. I replaced it with an A1CarDone rebuilt pump.
- That pump failed on the highway and lost all the fluid 2k miles later. I patched it up and got home, and replaced it with a free warranty pump, another rebuilt one.
- That pump leaked from the rear basically immediately, 5 days and 30 miles later all the fluid was gone. I replaced it with a new Toyota pump. My two previous pumps were both refunded, so no loss there.
Once you experience the joy of replacing that pump you may find that you have no desire whatsoever to do that job again any time soon. Therefore a new OEM pump is preferable.
So the third time I made a video:
I hope people find it useful. It goes along in tandem with this thread.
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RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
I just did cardone from rock auto box and pump no issues as of yet. how long till it failed first time?
His post states that the first one went 2,000 miles and the second one took 30 miles to barf all the fluid out of the system.
Sometimes I know more than I know
Sometimes I know more than I know
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Sorry asked via my phone and without my spectacles only got the gist, real small gist it was.His post states that the first one went 2,000 miles and the second one took 30 miles to barf all the fluid out of the system.
Sometimes I know more than I know
My progressive bifocals sometimes fail to compensate for the fact that my arms are too short. 
