gray rider
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Also, any need for Teflon tape around the threads at these connections? Or maybe that's not necessary. ......
Power Steering Pump and Hose Replacement - FAQ (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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Also, any need for Teflon tape around the threads at these connections? Or maybe that's not necessary. ......
I'm in the exact same boat. Did you ever figure it out? My jaw puller is just spinning. Is there a specialty puller I should be using? Always seem so simple with all the great threads on here until I start doing it myself..so frustrating!
Any help would be much appreciated!
Question on just getting the pump itself off....20 years of "stuff" PB blaster, breaker bar, blow torch? Holy cow that sucker is stuck on there! Any thoughts?
hmmm... i remember mine being on there but a few good taps from a BFH knocked it loose.
I was able to easily access the high pressure hose 17mm by popping out the the right most tab on the splash guard. I used a regular 17/16mm open end wrench there since I had plenty of room via the wheel well. For some reason Gates decided to go a mm smaller on their high pressure hose.
I posted this in a thread I started but just in case someone who knows doesn't see it....
Well I got the job done but I think I have to do it again. I'm getting the dreaded rattle from the gear. I couldn't get it on anymore than it was already on. I'm going to have to take it back out, but when I do, what ami supposed to do? I don't want to hammer it like some hack. What do you guys do to seat that all the way down? I've looked in this thread and others but they all just say to take the gear off the old and onto the new.
Well I got the job done but I think I have to do it again. I'm getting the dreaded rattle from the gear. I couldn't get it on anymore than it was already on. I'm going to have to take it back out, but when I do, what ami supposed to do? I don't want to hammer it like some hack. What do you guys do to seat that all the way down? I've looked in this thread and others but they all just say to take the gear off the old and onto the new.
Alright, I'm done. What did I learn? Seat that gear onto the pump properly. I had to take it to my buddy's shop and he used his press to get it on just another mm or so. That quieted things down.
Next, the return line has an o-ring where it connects to the PS pump. Mine was brittle and separating that line from the original pump compromised its sealing properties. It was leaking like a sieve on the new pump. I had to get an o-ring for it and it's sealing properly now.
After all this, I had to bleed it......for the third time. I'm mainly posting this part here to remind me of how to do it and i'll apply it to my other cars. Who knows, maybe it'll help someone.
Since I had to refill the fluid after replacing the o-ring on the return line, I didn't have the opportunity to prime the pump. Nevertheless, my method worked first time.
First, After filling with fluid, raise the front end tires off the ground. With the engine not running and the reservoir cap removed, turn the wheel lock to lock. Touch each side about ten times. Next, start the engine and repeat however, this time, when you lock all the way to each side, hold it there for about 5 seconds every time. Again, about ten times per side. Now, lower the front all the way down. Repeat the previous step with the tires on the ground this time. That's it. Put the cap back on. Take it for a drive, check for leaks, and have a cigar.
. If after that, you still hear whining when you turn, you may have a leak that's bringing air into the equation. Ask me how I know. 
Next, the return line has an o-ring where it connects to the PS pump. Mine was brittle and separating that line from the original pump compromised its sealing properties. It was leaking like a sieve on the new pump. I had to get an o-ring for it and it's sealing properly now.
After all this, I had to bleed it......for the third time. I'm mainly posting this part here to remind me of how to do it and i'll apply it to my other cars. Who knows, maybe it'll help someone.
Since I had to refill the fluid after replacing the o-ring on the return line, I didn't have the opportunity to prime the pump. Nevertheless, my method worked first time.
First, After filling with fluid, raise the front end tires off the ground. With the engine not running and the reservoir cap removed, turn the wheel lock to lock. Touch each side about ten times. Next, start the engine and repeat however, this time, when you lock all the way to each side, hold it there for about 5 seconds every time. Again, about ten times per side. Now, lower the front all the way down. Repeat the previous step with the tires on the ground this time. That's it. Put the cap back on. Take it for a drive, check for leaks, and have a cigar.
. If after that, you still hear whining when you turn, you may have a leak that's bringing air into the equation. Ask me how I know. 
Just finished swapping the Duralast ps pump and it has 2 o-rings. One goes on the metal hose to return line. Where does the smaller 2nd o-ring goes? Extra? TiA.
The Duralast pump is $80 at AutoZone while the Toyota rebuild KIT is $78, so I swapped to make it easier instead of rebuild.
The Duralast pump is $80 at AutoZone while the Toyota rebuild KIT is $78, so I swapped to make it easier instead of rebuild.
Last edited:
@bmw635 The power steering pump rebuild kit is closer to $10-15. It's an easy rebuild and you get to keep your OEM pump that way. More Information for GATES 348407
Toyota rebuild kit won't arrive till Tuesday and the Duralast pump is lifetime warranty so i didn't want to take chances redoing the pump if the rebuild leaks. Saving $60 parts if I had to redo the pump again is not worth it.
I assume the pump swap only use 1 o ring not 2? Thx
I assume the pump swap only use 1 o ring not 2? Thx
The pump body has an o-ring and there should be two crush washers (or maybe one dual crush washer?) for the high pressure hose.
Does the Duralast have a core charge?
Does the Duralast have a core charge?
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Half way through mine, PS pump leak.
Had to take everything out, the banjo was fused to the pump inset and i was afraid to break the line while turning the big 22ish mm screw.
Still debating if i'll chage the high pressure line, looks good, was full of ATF and greasy dirt, but i guess that was the pump messing up.
On the picture (parts cleaned up quite a bit), there is two lines that were cut out by previous owner i guess, i think its the cooler that was taken out. Is it essential?
Went for rebuilt pump by A1Cardone at 160$, then found a rebuilt kit for 15$ but to late.
Had to take everything out, the banjo was fused to the pump inset and i was afraid to break the line while turning the big 22ish mm screw.
Still debating if i'll chage the high pressure line, looks good, was full of ATF and greasy dirt, but i guess that was the pump messing up.
On the picture (parts cleaned up quite a bit), there is two lines that were cut out by previous owner i guess, i think its the cooler that was taken out. Is it essential?
Went for rebuilt pump by A1Cardone at 160$, then found a rebuilt kit for 15$ but to late.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2006
- Threads
- 38
- Messages
- 217
- Location
- Matane, Québec.
- Website
- www.magnetikmultimedia.com
Near from reinstallation of the pump, i checked if the o-ring was still on the motor assembly. It was. But i managed to only get 3/4 of it out of there. It must have been misaligned when installed by the previous owner, it is pretty messed up.
Is it a problem to have remains of the o-ring in there? Or the gear will take care of it?
Thanks
Is it a problem to have remains of the o-ring in there? Or the gear will take care of it?
Thanks
I needed to take off the skid plate to remove the lower the bracket to the high pressure hose. For some reason, I can not slide the skid plate out. The steering arms are in the way. Is there a trick to getting skid plate off?
Also, at the other end of the high pressure hose. I can get the 17mm flare wrench on, but I am not sure how to turn the wrench. Do we have to keep removing more things.
Thanks again for the write up.
Also, at the other end of the high pressure hose. I can get the 17mm flare wrench on, but I am not sure how to turn the wrench. Do we have to keep removing more things.
Thanks again for the write up.
I'm having the same issue. Got the skid plate off but struggling to remove the high pressure line.
Curious, how can you use an impact wrench on fitting on the end of a hard line. I am an Amateur.
What size are the two return hose sizes from the bottom of the reservoir. Mine are dry rotted.
