Builds Poopies Urban Assault FZJ80 build thread and inquiry central (1 Viewer)

[p0opstlnksal0t]

To go from MAF to MAP you completely remove your MAF housing. It won't fit anywhere any longer as you will have to completely redo your turbo inlet piping as well as your charge piping anyways. So yeah just unplug it and put it on a shelf somewhere. For the MAP you just run a vacuum line from the manifold to the Haltech. The Haltech 1000 has a 2.5 bar MAP sensor built in. You just plug the vacuum reference line into the ECU and it reads vacuum and boost. If you want to go above 2.5 bar (36.75psi absolute) then you would need to buy an external MAP sensor and plug it in.

I kept the stock throttle body as there is really no need to change it unless you are custom making a new intake manifold as well.

The problem with the cruise control was that someone at the shop cut the zip tie and didn't tie it back up so it fell down on the back of the turbo and melted. lol. The fix is don't let your cruise control cable sit on the exhaust housing of your turbo lol.

Haha thanks man that clears it up a bit! Ya I dont think I could live without my beloved cruise control!

I dont imagine you guys have emissions testing out there where you are at? lol. Yes we will be making a custom intake manifold more than likely... Im wondering if the TCU will have any problems if I disconnect the MAF and the stock TPS? Did you run a boost control solenoid or do you just allow the fueling and waste gate to regulate boost? Also how does the haltech control a mechanical distributor? doesn't timing advance and retard happen mechanically?

 

[scottryana]

You don't need a new intake manifold, not really sure why you would make one unless you just want practice or want to move the inlet to a different side, and then why would you not just use the stock throttle body? How are you going to control idle? You need the stock TPS, transmission uses it, but you will also use it for the standalone ECU.

I do run a boost control solenoid, in my earlier post you can see I said it was built into the BW turbo's Haltech has what they call closed loop boost control to hit your targets. No different than target AFR's you set your boost targets based off of RPM, TPS, etc. That way if you want to taper boost up top because you are using a small turbo and don't want to run it off it's compressor map you can or say if you were racing and you were blowing the tires off down low you can limit boost so you can get traction. Really the sky is the limit and how you decide to configure things are what makes the magic happen. You could take two identical physical setups and if they are setup differently in the software one might be great and the other will suck.

No the distributor and timing advance is not that old school it is not pure mechanical advance that relies on a weight and a spring. lol. It is electronic advance. No different than how stock the computer advances and retards timing.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Just trying to gather as much info as I can. If possible I'd like to run a better flowing manifold and throttle body. I wonder if a 2jz throttle with tps would maintain the same reading as the 1fz throttle body?

 

[scottryana]

Why? They are both 65mm butterflies??? Stock manifold flows well, but like I said if you want practice building manifolds go ahead but more than likely unless you have finite flow analysis tools at your disposal you will probably end up with cylinders that are leaner than others.

If you are just dying to do something get bigger cams, everything else flows well stock. I think you are totally under estimating this engine. It is a big version of the 2jz, it will react well with nothing more than a turbo.

 

[BOOSTED80]

If you are just dying to do something get bigger cams, everything else flows well stock. I think you are totally under estimating this engine. It is a big version of the 2jz, it will react well with nothing more than a turbo.

^^This & the fact I would be touching the bowl & short turn on the cylinder head before mucking around fabricating manifolds.
But then again it's really not necessary ..just add boost as Ryan above said.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Thanks for the input guys. Im sure Im over complicating things... its in my nature. There are a lot of threads from you guys slapping turbos on these motors from this board. I just found 2 more builds last night and read through the entire threads. A lot of good information from you guys running through the trials and errors...

Scott if I may ask... Where did you get your A343F upgraded VB? Did you do anything else to the transmission like replacement of the clutch plates at the time of the VB change? Ive managed to find an upgraded billet converter for the A440F but not so lucky with the A343F

 

[etarasoff]

i'd probably just throw a 300 shot of NOS on the stock motor and do AWD burnouts like a boss.

That made me LOL

 

[scottryana]

I upgraded the valve body myself. It is a couple hour job. I have an almost step by step account of it in someone else's thread when they were having issues. Granted it was a few months after I did mine but should be pretty detailed. I did the valve body and had a very well known Supra trans builder do a stock rebuild. In all of your searching have you found anyone with a broken torque converter? I am not going to say that you can do anything you want but I am pretty sure you will be fine doing the Transgo VB upgrade, and if needed rebuilding the trans at the PT6466 power levels. All bets are off if you go PT6768 or higher.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

The only account of power holding issues are yours where you were seeing the dyno chart dip when the TC started slipping in the midrange. I think I will end up with going with a twin scroll 62-64mm turbo. its big but not too big. Ive done plenty of VB upgrades on previous vehicles so it should be a pretty simple deal. I will probably reuse the existing manifolds to keep it simple now that ive given it some though. did you reuse the ehaust manifold and flip it upside down? I dont have an FZJ yet so I cant look at the engine bay to see what its going to take.

 

[scottryana]

The exhaust manifold on the 1FZFE is basically 2 separate 3-1 manifolds. Manifold 1 for cylinders 1-3 and Manifold 2 for cylinders 4-6. Because of the firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4) this makes it perfect for a twin scroll which would be (1-3-2)(5-6-4).

So all you have to do is make a J-pipe for the turbo. Come off of each manifold, and do a 90 degree bend to the turbo flange. With each pipe feeding one side of the divided flange.

Again a lot of this will be in my build thread....

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

talked with a buddy who has built a few turbo toys and he recommended an s300 for a budget turbo: Borg Warner 66/73/.91 or 63-64mm variants. all come in twin scroll t4 4" S cover for 600-700 bucks shipped...

 

[Otamiway]

The exhaust manifold on the 1FZFE is basically 2 separate 3-1 manifolds. Manifold 1 for cylinders 1-3 and Manifold 2 for cylinders 4-6.

Thats a piece of art.... GL with your build

 

[scottryana]

Yeah a 66/73 is going to work it is going to be big, but you can always limit boost. I would probably go with a s300sx3 in the 60/68, but we know I am conservative and favor spool over big power. lol. The s300 in the 66/73 size should be good for enough flow to hit 700+hp at the crank.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Yes thats perfect, simple and elegant I imagine I will do something similar. Im hoping to arrange everything so that I can reuse the stock airbox and run a aftermarket snorkel.

The exhaust manifold on the 1FZFE is basically 2 separate 3-1 manifolds. Manifold 1 for cylinders 1-3 and Manifold 2 for cylinders 4-6. Because of the firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4) this makes it perfect for a twin scroll which would be (1-3-2)(5-6-4).

So all you have to do is make a J-pipe for the turbo. Come off of each manifold, and do a 90 degree bend to the turbo flange. With each pipe feeding one side of the divided flange.

Again a lot of this will be in my build thread....

 

[scottryana]

It can be done, it was done on Bret's truck it was just a little too crowded for my liking. And I wanted more water capacity.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Yeah a 66/73 is going to work it is going to be big, but you can always limit boost. I would probably go with a s300sx3 in the 60/68, but we know I am conservative and favor spool over big power. lol. The s300 in the 66/73 size should be good for enough flow to hit 700+hp at the crank.

that 66/73 was his first recommendation when i said 500 awhp... after looking at the various s300's Ive found some interesting sizes that might spool up quickly and give me plenty of power. That is the 63mm (i think this is a custom wheel that my buddy at forcedinductions will put on) and 64mm sizes...

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Scott was that exhaust manifold J-pipe made at EMS powered shop?

just posting this here for my reference... standard A343F rebuild kit: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4723521&cc=1276703


I wonder if all of these kits are made in china? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-A340...Parts_Accessories&hash=item23396dad3b&vxp=mtr


I found these guys that will customize your valvebody however you like it... http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_Toyota_Bulletproof_Valvebody_p/toy-ja210-5000p.htm

I wonder if these are simply rebranded china rebuild kits? http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_PTS_Toyota_Bulletproof_Rebuilding_Kit_p/toy-ja110-5000.htm

they also do TC's but I would be interested to know what they actually "upggrade"



some searching answered my own questions:

Level10 does not work with software at all, nor do they claim to do so. They are a simple transmission shop. As of a couple of years ago, their claimed "process" for a full kit performance build of the 5HP19FLA was really just an OE rebuild, plus a half dozen hardware store washers being used to shim two valve body springs. They also "adjust" the stock torque converter by trimming the impeller shaft with a band saw. All of this is pretty simple stuff that could be done by anyone who is comfortable rebuilding a transmission, if you really wanted it that way, for the cost of a standard rebuild, plus about $2.00 in parts, and less than one hour in labor. (Don't forget the pressure wash and rattle can paint for the torque converter.)

The truth is, the modifications don't really do anything to enhance the performance or torque capacity of the transmission beyond making the shifts less prone to standard "comfort slip", which will prolong the life of most any automatic transmission, because friction material is then subjected to load less of the time. The side effect is that the standard slip engagement won't slip as much, for as long, and your shifts will feel like collisions.

...but the materials will still wear, and they will still break down. It might take a bit longer, but the end result will be largely the same.

Good luck.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?s=e6444810fab86bbde5cd937356f2feda&t=582230&page=2

 

[scottryana]

It was made by my friend Marc who at the time was employed by EMS. But yes. I know Bak had a couple more on the shelf when he moved the shop. No idea what happened to them. I know one was supposed to be for his 80 but I heard he sold his 80. I tried to put another mud member in touch with Bak to buy one but he didn't answer either of our emails. I would highly highly recommend Marc, but Bak kept all the jigs and Marc moved up to Dallas to build twin turbo vipers.

 

[scottryana]

Good luck, I called and emailed them and they couldn't tell me what they upgrade.

Like I said, you can spend your money on them, but I would be willing to bet $100, all they do is put in a rebuild kit and do the valve body modifications.

A small shop like Level Ten does not have the capability to make gears, or to cut splines so all those are out. Do yourself a favor and look up their reputation as well.

All of the shops I tried to talk to that had this great upgraded transmissions would not or could not tell me what they upgraded for sometimes several thousand dollars. I am convinced they prey on the people that don't know anything about automatic transmissions, they get an old worn out trans put new clutch packs back in and do the valve body and "OMG this is the best transmission ever!"

Oh and by the way the Transgo kit, comes with different springs and different sized drill bits, so all of this "We carefully select the spring weights, orifice sizes and location, valve size, and port modifications" are in the instructions of the $100 kit. lol.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Good luck, I called and emailed them and they couldn't tell me what they upgrade.

Like I said, you can spend your money on them, but I would be willing to bet $100, all they do is put in a rebuild kit and do the valve body modifications.

A small shop like Level Ten does not have the capability to make gears, or to cut splines so all those are out. Do yourself a favor and look up their reputation as well.

All of the shops I tried to talk to that had this great upgraded transmissions would not or could not tell me what they upgraded for sometimes several thousand dollars. I am convinced they prey on the people that don't know anything about automatic transmissions, they get an old worn out trans put new clutch packs back in and do the valve body and "OMG this is the best transmission ever!"

Oh and by the way the Transgo kit, comes with different springs and different sized drill bits, so all of this "We carefully select the spring weights, orifice sizes and location, valve size, and port modifications" are in the instructions of the $100 kit. lol.

It certainly looks like that is all that's going on. Someone said they may go as far as cutting down the TC fins slightly on a band saw for their "race" torque converters. Man I can't believe there are no shops that will cut us some special clutch disks. Someone out there must be able to cut some custom friction disks if they have machine drawings. Hell I can cad up some drawings in an hour if I knew of a shop that could make them.