Builds Poopies Urban Assault FZJ80 build thread and inquiry central (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Yeah not familiar with master power but if it is like the other 61mm turbo's that would give you pretty good spool and great power. Like I said even my truck it is super easy to over drive the brakes, you hit it and accelerate hard and it isn't easy to stop.

A 61mm turbo will make good power, be easier to intercooler than something like my BW7670 57mm turbo, you will still easily see 2.5 times more power than stock.

And you know you don't have to listen to me either, s*** if I listened to everyone I never would have done my FJ55 or my turbo 80. If you really want to throw a 78-80mm turbo on the 80, lower it and go race liter bikes from a dig I say "go for it!!" Just get it all on video!! lol

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

nope it will certainly not be lowered. In fact I imagine It will be sitting 6-8" over the stock height after I finish it up.

if I were to run a twin scroll wouldnt I need to run twin wastegates?

 

[scottryana]

Yes if you run twin scroll external wastegate exhaust housings you would need to run a wastegate on each side. There are internal wastegate twin scroll housings as well.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

ya that would be the EFR? man those things are pricey lol.

 

[AMMO]

totally doable and a good idea. i'd probably just throw a 300 shot of NOS on the stock motor and do AWD burnouts like a boss. drill holes in the exhaust downpipe for that loud grizzly-bear like sound and then as far as suspension goes, just attach random links with heim joints to the frame and the axle and remove all the other BS like wheels and brakes and tierods. It'll flex all savage like while sounding like a BEAST bro

Amazing....

 

[scottryana]

Ok see I see them as a great buy! Lets take a look at the Precision PT6266 and the BW EFR8374. Both are 62mm turbos.

For the BW EFR8374 it is:
$2612

Now the PT6266
-Has to be ball bearing to be even close so $1700
-(2) Tial waste gates 38mm are $265each, 41mm are $335each so at least $530
-Tial blow off valve $259

So right there you are $2612 for the BW and $2489 for the Precision. Now add in that the BW has ceramic ball bearings, the BW has a water cooled and oil cooled center section, the BW has a Gamma Ti Turbine, the BW has a stainless investment cast housing, and a boost control solenoid valve and to me the BW becomes the clear winner.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

I found some info out about the holley and the 2jz supra guys. Do we have the same sensors? http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?13565-Dominator-on-a-2JZ-Any-reason-this-won-t-work

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Scott do you have any video of your truck on the road or off road?

 

[scottryana]

Our trucks use a 36-2 crank and the cam is picked up out of the distributor, which does not look like it is supported. I will dig up the actual settings.

I am not sure I really have any video of the truck I might have a couple videos trying to show the speedometer but I remember the last time I tried to do that a guy pulled out right in front of me. Like he didn't expect a cruiser to move that fast. lol.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Our trucks use a 36-2 crank and the cam is picked up out of the distributor, which does not look like it is supported. I will dig up the actual settings.

I am not sure I really have any video of the truck I might have a couple videos trying to show the speedometer but I remember the last time I tried to do that a guy pulled out right in front of me. Like he didn't expect a cruiser to move that fast. lol.

I found some of your stuff on other boards

Yeah the guys didn't know it had a 36-2 on the crank. This was the first 1FZ they had ever done and the other shop that was supposed to have some experience with it told them it was 24 distributor. Glad they got it figured out and working, it is doing great! Just need to do some fine tuning. Seems like I need to wire up the tech output as the stock tach is very flaky now.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10434

I am also looking at these Microtech setups. they seem like a heck of a deal...

LT-16c
1FZFE Landcruiser 36-2 Factory coilpacks

1FZFE Landcruiser 36-2 Direct fire with X6

1FZFE Landcruiser 36-2 Direct fire with Digital MSD Ignition

1FZFE Landcruiser 36-2 Direct fire with M&W CDI Ignition

Due to popular demand MicroTech EFI now offer our current LT-16C range of fuel and ignition control Engine Management Systems in a package deal kit consisting of the LT-16C ECU, X6 ignition box & 6 Bosch high energy ignition coils. The kit is available to suit most of our popular 4cyl, 6cyl, 2 rotor & 3 rotor engine configurations & offers excellent savings as opposed to purchasing the components separately.

A new feature for the LT-16C ECU is the addition of a CAN output which will allow the MicroTech ECU to connect directly to most common aftermarket dash loggers such as Racepak, PCS or MoTec. The MicroTech transmits data via the CAN bus at 1 Mbit/second.

Price: $1,595.00

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

well crap these microtech guys are in australia too...

 

[scottryana]

Yeah and in the US we didn't get coil packs we have, distributor, plug wires and plugs. So unless you wanted to source a non US head and parts to not use the distributor it wouldn't be plug and play anyways. For $1595 you can buy a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

what all did you buy with your haltech; wideband, universal wiring harness, new sensors (intake air temp, water temp, etc) or anything? I noticed the haltech does the auto tuning with a wide band just like the holley kits which will really help me get off the ground when I start learning how to tune whichever system I go with... I found a few haltech 2000's on ebay for pretty good deals (new from vendors) Also did you ever sort out your stock Tachometer issue?

 

[scottryana]

You will need a wideband no matter what ECU you go with, you could try and relocate and reuse the stock air temp it has been done or you could order an air temp from Haltech, you can reuse the water temp or again if you want you could also order one from Haltech and use it.

You will need a wiring harness as you will need some way to plug into the Haltech and tap the correct pins.

The auto tuning with Haltech really is nothing like the auto tuning that Holley does. The Holley is basically a feedback loop that corrects itself. The Haltech shows you your programmed AFR and your actual AFR and then you hit "Q" and it calculates the fueling for that cell to match that AFR. But it requires user input and it is only for that one cell. You will have to go in and smooth the rest of the fueling map after you have done that to multiple cells.

The tach issue wasn't really terrible it was just bouncing around a couple hundred rpms, not nearly as bad as the old cable tachs. The issue was that we tapped into the tach signal, instead of capturing the tach signal and then outputting it to the actual tach, Haltech has an output to do this, but my tuner just thought it would be ok intercepting and most people probably wouldn't have cared but I am a little OCD.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

You will need a wideband no matter what ECU you go with, you could try and relocate and reuse the stock air temp it has been done or you could order an air temp from Haltech, you can reuse the water temp or again if you want you could also order one from Haltech and use it.

You will need a wiring harness as you will need some way to plug into the Haltech and tap the correct pins.

The auto tuning with Haltech really is nothing like the auto tuning that Holley does. The Holley is basically a feedback loop that corrects itself. The Haltech shows you your programmed AFR and your actual AFR and then you hit "Q" and it calculates the fueling for that cell to match that AFR. But it requires user input and it is only for that one cell. You will have to go in and smooth the rest of the fueling map after you have done that to multiple cells.

The tach issue wasn't really terrible it was just bouncing around a couple hundred rpms, not nearly as bad as the old cable tachs. The issue was that we tapped into the tach signal, instead of capturing the tach signal and then outputting it to the actual tach, Haltech has an output to do this, but my tuner just thought it would be ok intercepting and most people probably wouldn't have cared but I am a little OCD.

I gotcha. Did you ever look into the COP setup? what would be any advantage of doing that? I read about it in your thread.

Yes you do get a check engine but there is a seperate box made by Haltech to clear the CEL's. It emulates the signals you need to feed the stock computer.

http://www.haltech.com/product/accessories/output-controllers/

I haven't used it and I am not sure if I will, probably but it has no bearing on engine performance, the guys running this setup in AU, I am told just pull the CEL bulb and use the scangauge.

pulled this from you thread, Did you ever get this output controller? what was involved in switching to MAP vs the stock MAF?

 

[scottryana]

Nope, I don't care too much about the CEL'S at this point you have changed so much you are going to get CEL'S. The MAF is going to be gone, the injectors are going to be different sizes, the O2 sensors are going to read the wrong number, the fueling is going to be done completly by the standalone, the ignition timing is going to be different than stock, etc

Could you get it to work? Sure but after huge time and expense and at this point I see zero ROI on it. I can still pull the codes you just have to know which codes are supposed to be there and which aren't lol. We also disabled the wire to the dash light so it isn't always lit

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Nope, I don't care too much about the CEL'S at this point you have changed so much you are going to get CEL'S. The MAF is going to be gone, the injectors are going to be different sizes, the O2 sensors are going to read the wrong number, the fueling is going to be done completly by the standalone, the ignition timing is going to be different than stock, etc

Could you get it to work? Sure but after huge time and expense and at this point I see zero ROI on it. I can still pull the codes you just have to know which codes are supposed to be there and which aren't lol. We also disabled the wire to the dash light so it isn't always lit

Does this not hurt the transmission TCU at all or throw it into limp mode?

It looks like it still may be pretty simple to tune myself with the Haltech, should be fun learning. http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4507

set up a wideband input properly, at which point it's as simple as 'q,q,w, load, q,q, w, load' and so forth

these tuning systems have come a long way since ls1edit in 2002 or 2003 when I had my ls1 camaro in high school lol.

Did you get your cruise control to work?

 

[scottryana]

No they have zero effect on the transmission, everything works exactly as intended. 2nd gear start, PWR button, there is no change from a stock truck.

Ok I am hoping you understand there is no "Autotune" in the Haltech. You can set what they call VE "Volumetric Efficiency" which is a guess based off of engine size, injector size etc, to build you a map to be able to start the truck on.

Then you have to go in and adjust the map based off of MAP and RPM, so say as boost and RPM's rise you want your AFR's to fall.

Just an example
13:1 - 0-1psi
12.5:1 - 1-3psi
12:1- 3-5psi
11.5:1 6-8psi
11:1 9+psi

Then you have a fueling map that is the same layout as the target AFR map, this map is based on a percentage of fueling so as the engine requires more fuel these numbers will go up and as your AFR's go down these numbers will also go up.

The "quick tune" feature of the haltech allows you to watch the current AFR and the target AFR as you drive or are on the dyno and say current is 13.5:1 and your target is 12:1 and hit the "q" on the keyboard and the haltech will calculate what percentage number it needs to put in the fuel table. Then you smooth the fuel table out around that cell, you keep doing this until you have a fuel map that is very close. You can tell it is close because your actual AFR's will be very close or match your target AFR's.

Once you have this all done and everything looks good, you can put the haltech in "closed loop" mode and it will adjust up or down a few percent to keep you on your target.

Now I know this is not as nice as the Holley Autotune, and I have no idea why the biggest names in ECU's like Haltech, Motech, Proefi, etc don't do auto tune, I kind of think it is because their dealer network doesn't want them to. The dealers would lose a lot of money if there was no tuner getting paid.....

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

No they have zero effect on the transmission, everything works exactly as intended. 2nd gear start, PWR button, there is no change from a stock truck.

Ok I am hoping you understand there is no "Autotune" in the Haltech. You can set what they call VE "Volumetric Efficiency" which is a guess based off of engine size, injector size etc, to build you a map to be able to start the truck on.

Then you have to go in and adjust the map based off of MAP and RPM, so say as boost and RPM's rise you want your AFR's to fall.

Just an example
13:1 - 0-1psi
12.5:1 - 1-3psi
12:1- 3-5psi
11.5:1 6-8psi
11:1 9+psi

Then you have a fueling map that is the same layout as the target AFR map, this map is based on a percentage of fueling so as the engine requires more fuel these numbers will go up and as your AFR's go down these numbers will also go up.

The "quick tune" feature of the haltech allows you to watch the current AFR and the target AFR as you drive or are on the dyno and say current is 13.5:1 and your target is 12:1 and hit the "q" on the keyboard and the haltech will calculate what percentage number it needs to put in the fuel table. Then you smooth the fuel table out around that cell, you keep doing this until you have a fuel map that is very close. You can tell it is close because your actual AFR's will be very close or match your target AFR's.

Once you have this all done and everything looks good, you can put the haltech in "closed loop" mode and it will adjust up or down a few percent to keep you on your target.

Now I know this is not as nice as the Holley Autotune, and I have no idea why the biggest names in ECU's like Haltech, Motech, Proefi, etc don't do auto tune, I kind of think it is because their dealer network doesn't want them to. The dealers would lose a lot of money if there was no tuner getting paid.....

Thanks man, ya I know what you are saying. they do make it easier than when I was messing around with LS1edit on my old camaro. Especially the pages layouts where you can have multiple tools up at once to aid in tuning.

Also to keep poking a dead horse, how did you switch over to map vs the stock maf? Did you just stick a 3 BAR GM map sensor plumbed to the intake for the Haltech and leave the MAF for the stock ECU or did you remove the MAF completely? Did you keep the stock throttle body or get an aftermarket? Also what was the problem you had with your cruise control and what was the fix? Thanks man I know its probably getting old rambling on with me lol...

 

[scottryana]

To go from MAF to MAP you completely remove your MAF housing. It won't fit anywhere any longer as you will have to completely redo your turbo inlet piping as well as your charge piping anyways. So yeah just unplug it and put it on a shelf somewhere. For the MAP you just run a vacuum line from the manifold to the Haltech. The Haltech 1000 has a 2.5 bar MAP sensor built in. You just plug the vacuum reference line into the ECU and it reads vacuum and boost. If you want to go above 2.5 bar (36.75psi absolute) then you would need to buy an external MAP sensor and plug it in.

I kept the stock throttle body as there is really no need to change it unless you are custom making a new intake manifold as well.

The problem with the cruise control was that someone at the shop cut the zip tie and didn't tie it back up so it fell down on the back of the turbo and melted. lol. The fix is don't let your cruise control cable sit on the exhaust housing of your turbo lol.