Builds Poopies Urban Assault FZJ80 build thread and inquiry central (1 Viewer)

[duggy]

If you're looking for a tuner in Houston I can introduce you to dave at d3 and even johnny at jtran studios

 

[scottryana]

Not sure you need it again do the transgo shift kit, for what $100, and you might be good to 700+ft/lbs. I have just over an estimated 620ft/lbs and I have zero issues now with the trans.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Duggy thanks for the tip. When the time comes I may take you up on that!

Pretty amazing that these motors and transmissions are so Stout. Just goes to show you how overbuilt these fzj 's are

 

[BOOSTED80]

There are guys putting 6 clutches & heavy duty frictions into the A442..can't see why not you can't find a decent trans builder near you to do the same.

They sell heavy duty & extreme valve bodies , components ,and converter lock up controllers

http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/extreme_a442f.asp
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=4651
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=42068

 

[BOOSTED80]

that 66/73 was his first recommendation when i said 500 awhp... after looking at the various s300's Ive found some interesting sizes that might spool up quickly and give me plenty of power. That is the 63mm (i think this is a custom wheel that my buddy at forcedinductions will put on) and 64mm sizes...

If it was me I would just be strapping this on and call it a day..it will easily hit your hp target & would spool like a mofo.
But if chasing numbers is your thing over the quick spooling ability to shift the weight of a lard ass 80 series then the other two would be next pick for me.
Not that the Precisions aren't good , I just prefer the BW..as do others
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BorgWarner-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item461e3b0999&vxp=mtr

But if your set on the divided housing then this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BorgWarner-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bcb061fe&vxp=mtr

Or go the billet 62mm wheel version..
http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Soon enough you will want to run a snail the size that some of these nut jobs run

 

[scottryana]

First things first. Buy an 80! Lol

 

[BOOSTED80]

First things first. Buy an 80! Lol

Ha ha..that would be a good start.

 

[bahamasair]

I opened up my trans that's built by level10 and there wasn't anything done internally except to the valve body that I could see. For what it's worth the valve body mod held over 700 awhp on my cruiser and didn't slip. The only problems I had with the trans was loosing reverse and that wasn't caused by too much power. I run a emanage ultimate piggyback instead of a standalone but if I had built it myself I'd go with standalone. I also run map and have the maf deleted. There is a spoof table in the Emanage for removing the maf. I'm waiting for the machine shop to finish with my replacement block so I can put my engine back together. I'm running a HKS T04z turbo and air to air intercooler.

 

[scottryana]

Bahamasair, you said you were running 700awhp? I could be wrong but the HKS T04z is only rated for 700hp at the crank. Are you sure you are getting awhp or is there a conversion for crank hp? Do you have a pic of your dyno run?

The T04z is like a 66/74 turbo so a pretty good sized setup. I would expect it to be around 500-550awhp. What boost are you running it at?

Thanks!

 

[bahamasair]

Sorry I mis typed.

346@10psi
557@20psi
645@27psi
I couldn't find any vids of the 27psi run. I was running it at 16-20psi

 

[WillT]

totally doable and a good idea. i'd probably just throw a 300 shot of NOS on the stock motor and do AWD burnouts like a boss. drill holes in the exhaust downpipe for that loud grizzly-bear like sound and then as far as suspension goes, just attach random links with heim joints to the frame and the axle and remove all the other BS like wheels and brakes and tierods. It'll flex all savage like while sounding like a BEAST bro

I dig it. Needs hydraulics also, and Impala rims

 

[scottryana]

Bahamasair,

Please don't take this as any disrespect, but I just want to point out a couple possible miscommunications. It would be impossible for that turbo to make 675awhp on an 80 series.

The HKS T04z is a 75lb/min turbo, http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/garrett-t-series/garrett-t4-t67-twinscroll-turbo.html

That means pushing the turbo 100% it could make 750hp based on the amount of air it pushes. Now no engine has 100% volumetric efficiency so you will lose some hp, lets say as little as 5% and then you have drivetrain loss on our trucks it has been shown to be about 30%. SO to show a 675awhp number you would need to have a turbo that could push about 92lbs/min.

I think the more likely scenario is that the shop was using a dyno that has some correction factor from wheel hp to crank hp. If that was estimated crank hp, you would be right about 475 all wheel horse power (675hp * 30% drivetrain loss = 472awhp). Which is right on the money for what would be expected. And why I recommended a 67mm turbo to the original poster when he wanted 500awhp. The HKS T04z is a 66.7mm turbo so they would both be right in the same ballpark.

The T04z is kind of older tech and now days they have turbos the same size pushing 90lbs/min but with that turbo, I don't want to be an ass but you couldn't have pushed 675awhp. But 475awhp is still a whole lot in this truck considering stock is about 140awhp.

 

[bahamasair]

I didn't build the truck and can't say if they used a correction. I was just told what the numbers were and it's 645 not 675.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Scott off the top of your head do you know if the megasquirt ecus can read the 36-2 crank and cam sensors? I found out the holley should work with an adapter wheel and mounting my own sensor

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I can't say I am not a megasquirt guy. and yeah if you get a reluctor wheel and a sensor and figure out a way to mount them to the crank external to the engine you can run the holley but I didn't want to mess with that when there are very good computers that read what we have.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

Scott im talking with a megasquirt tech and im trying to find out what exactly the 96-97 1fz uses for a crank or cam signal to the ecu? the more I look for information the more I get confused... is the timing triggered using a 36 tooth wheel in the distributor (crankshaft position) with an opposing missing tooth on each side with no other camshaft positioning sensor?

This is what I was told:

"36-2 +1 Home" sounds like what MS3-Pro would use in dual wheel with missing teeth mode and is pretty straightforward to run. The 36-2 sensor is usually on the crank.

Most "all distributor" Toyota trigger arrangements from that era would be a 24 tooth and a 1 tooth wheel, which is also supported. I'd recommend opening up the distributor and having a look to know for sure.

Either pattern can be used to trigger a coil per plug or wasted spark ignition.

 

[scottryana]

You can see on my settings page on page 2 of this thread it is setup as a 36 -2 +1 Home signal on the cam.

You could trigger a coil on each plug except there aren't coils on each plug, so you would need to design that.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

thanks. ive seen kits for chevy 350s and other motors that basically replace the distributor with a gear/stem that fits into its place with a little cam position sensor on top.

 

[p0opstlnksal0t]

It looks like it will be easier than I thought to go distributorless COP ignition.... Ill could probably CAD up a new low profile distributor cap and ill get rid of the rotor, then have a buddy machine the new cap from aluminum. It will basically be just a big cam sensor I will be able to keep my ecu happy that its getting the cam position input and will be able to fire sequential fuel and ignition with the megasquirt.

 

[BOOSTED80]

I wouldn't be going Megasquirt when there's so much better available.