Please confirm... Real time and 3rd try PS pump rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bdruff
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the bubbling is why I think there is still some air in there
To bleed, you have to make several trys of moving the wheels left to right until it stops overflowing. I did it and when it started to overflow I stopped. Let it simmer down and did it again until it stopped overflowing
To bleed, you have to make several trys of moving the wheels left to right until it stops overflowing. I did it and when it started to overflow I stopped. Let it simmer down and did it again until it stopped overflowing
Or dirty screen at the bottom of the reservoir?
Once upon a time on a mk3 supra my friend changed the ps pump but the whine was still there. Turned out to be a blocked suction screen causing cavitation and noise. Replaced the reservoir and all was well after.
That why I like Dan, he wont sell you something if he thinks your problem is elsewhere
- Thread starter
- #30
So here we are again... I tightened the high pressure line going into the gear box just a hair, double checked the torque on the banjo bolt, replaced the low pressure clamps on the hose to the reservoir and made sure they were tight, checked the lines and cooler for holes but I couldn't see anything obvious, bled it until I didn't see any bubbles for a long time.
I didn't pry the top off the reservoir because they didn't come off easy and I didn't want to take the reservoir off. Easy but I don't have any more power steering fluid at the house.
Started it and turned the wheels back and forth. No whine. Shut the engine off. No spray. No froth.
Drive it down the road and parked it. Feels and sounds great. Popped the hood...No puddle on the reservoir. No froth in the fluid.
I'll take it for a longer drive tonight.
I really appreciate everyone's help. Hands down the best forum/interest group I've found for anything
Eventually I'll get it... I'll probably find it's already been dealt with somewhere here.
I didn't pry the top off the reservoir because they didn't come off easy and I didn't want to take the reservoir off. Easy but I don't have any more power steering fluid at the house.
Started it and turned the wheels back and forth. No whine. Shut the engine off. No spray. No froth.
Drive it down the road and parked it. Feels and sounds great. Popped the hood...No puddle on the reservoir. No froth in the fluid.
I'll take it for a longer drive tonight.
I really appreciate everyone's help. Hands down the best forum/interest group I've found for anything
Eventually I'll get it... I'll probably find it's already been dealt with somewhere here.
Something has got to be wrong with the cap if its leaking from the top with the cap on and tightened. If air was getting in somewhere else that would likely be the area that would leak when the engine is shut down not from under the sealed reservoir cap. My guess is the cap is the source of the air getting into the system and is then the place pressure is released when turned off.
Bleed the air out with the front jacked up and the ignition on, but not running.
15 times lock to lock, top off and repeat 3-4 times and all should be fine. If you start it with the cap off it will spew out fluid and suck in more air. Borrow a cap from someone if possible and see if the leaking out the cap stops. Are these reservoir caps unique to the land cruiser? Me thinks no, but can't say.
Didn't you say before that the dipstick on your cap was broken of? I think it's the cap!
Bleed the air out with the front jacked up and the ignition on, but not running.
15 times lock to lock, top off and repeat 3-4 times and all should be fine. If you start it with the cap off it will spew out fluid and suck in more air. Borrow a cap from someone if possible and see if the leaking out the cap stops. Are these reservoir caps unique to the land cruiser? Me thinks no, but can't say.
Didn't you say before that the dipstick on your cap was broken of? I think it's the cap!
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes... its not the original cap. I broke mine some time back. Nobody had them in stock so I went to the salvage yard and got one. I think it was off a lx. the dipstick was too long. I cut it of and the cap went on. I know I need a new one but I didn't think air would be able to get into the system thru the reservoir. There is the 15" section of 5/8 tubing full of fluid that it would have to get past.
I'm going to get a cap anyway... I can't tell exactly what is full, over or under filled.
I'm going to get a cap anyway... I can't tell exactly what is full, over or under filled.
That and you need to ensure a good seal as well
You will get there, no need to go to a dealer yet
What do you mean "pry the top off the reservoir"? Is it removable? Mine weeps a bit and it would be cool if I could just change a gasket.
- Thread starter
- #35
reservoir
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/623110-foaming-power-steering-pump-still.html
Look at post #20 in this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/623110-foaming-power-steering-pump-still.html
Look at post #20 in this thread
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Yes, the system is pressurized, but not the reservoir. The cap is vented, if you beat it in the rocks on a hot day, boil the fluid, there will be a little fountain from the little vent hole in the center of the cap. One of the reasons that some of us have switched away from ATF, fountain entertainment is far less often.
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Yep, in a correctly setup/functioning system, the leading cause of cavitation/vapor bubbles forming in the system, is from suction side restriction. The pumps do a great job of making pressure, are very poor at drawing fluid in, if there is any intake restriction, it will cause cavitation.
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The reservoir is not considered "serviceable" no parts are available. That said, if you are careful, they can be serviced. The top is held on by tabs that are bent over the rim of the base, carefully pry them up and it comes off. The screen assembly is held in by dents in the side of the can, flatten them out with a punch from the inside, note/mark the rotation position and remove it.
Clean everything, put the screen back in position, redo the dents with a center punch to hold it. Clean the can rim and gasket in the top oil residue free. Apply a skin coat of RTV to the can rim, put it on and carefully re-crimp the tabs with pliers.
Yes, the system is pressurized, but not the reservoir. The cap is vented, if you beat it in the rocks on a hot day, boil the fluid, there will be a little fountain from the little vent hole in the center of the cap. One of the reasons that some of us have switched away from ATF, fountain entertainment is far less often.
Thanks for the clarification Kevin
Thanks Kevin! It's nice to know I can fix this leak/seepage, albeit with a little effort.
I appreciate the reply!
I appreciate the reply!
