PigRibs, a 74 FST 40 (1 Viewer)

[mderrick]

I'll check on the roll-bar, I may have one in storage sitting next to a nice 1HZ

The FST w/s frame I have here is for the red 40 FST I just picked up. The one on it is slightly tweaked.

I have a slightly tweaked one for sale

@cruiseroutfit could you shoot me over a picture of the frame?

@bugsnbikes i have had a few people asking about it. it runs and drives..

 

[bugsnbikes]

id be interested. what mileage was on it when pulled?

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

Black wheels look good on the Freeborn. Seeing a lot more recently. Sub’d

 

[mderrick]

id be interested. what mileage was on it when pulled?

@bugsnbikes, motor is still and moving the truck around odometer states ~50k, we all know that could be real or not.. depending on if the cluster is original or not, if it has rolled over.. so not exactly sure.. i can probably get some compression numbers from my buddy that is storing/working on/ driving it right now..

 

[bugsnbikes]

compression numbers would differentiate 50k and 150k for sure. keep me posted as everything moves forward as id definitely be interested

 

[mderrick]

Darrel is getting some work done for me..

prior to pulling the motor he was able to do a compression test and the came back with some good numbers, looks like it could use a Valve adjust but otherwise it is in good shape.

Compression test;
dry cyl1 130 lbs cyl2 110 lbs cyl3 110 lbs cyl4 110 cyl5 115 cyl6 120
wet cyl1 130 lbs cyl2 115 lbs cyl3 115 lbs cyl4 120 cyl5 125 cyl6 125

Darrel also had a realization that he thinks that he had worked on this truck maybe 20 years ago, there is a distinct bullet hole in the firewall, the trans is a 4 speed but has a 3spd tcase so it has a lower low than the 4 spd cases.

I will be posting the drive train up for sale soon both in the local club and MUD.

Next Stop, cleaning up the frame and getting it ready for the HZ and Power steering..

 

[mderrick]

Block Vin number; F435287
Body Vin number; FJ40182483

maybe the number guys can shed some light based on these numbers.

 

[spotcruiser]

Engine mid-year 73
Body 9/74

Per SOR charts.

 

[MoCoNative]

That is not an F.5, the F.5 has the oil filter in the same place as a 2F, just forward of the distributor, this is used for the newer full flow oil filtration system incorporated in the 2F engine. I can't see the filter. In fact all I see is an oil fill tube, something that was also gone on the F155 engine, maybe even the F145 engine. I know mine is blanked off, as in never even cast into the engine. Mine is a 4/73 F engine, an F155, the F.5 was also labeled an F155 but came out in late 1973 I believe, along with a 4speed for a few months until the 2F and 4 speed combo replaced it in 1975. Oil fill cap on the valve cover replaced the tube on the side of the block.

You have an earlier vac advance distributor, something anyone could have swapped in. I don't see the factory lift hooks though and no evidence of factory smog components. Again not unheard of, easily de-smogged, but the other odd thing is that the main pulley only has one groove. A 1974 would have a two groove main and two groove waterpump pulley to drive the smog pump mounted where the forward engine chain hooked up in your photo. That is a smogged 1974 air cleaner assembly though. Thats also a later plastic fan for the non-clutched waterpump. Someone has also butchered the factory fuel lines and deleted the factory mechanical fuel pump in favor of electric I assume. Seems this engine was messed with a bit at some point, no an original block for a US spec 1974, maybe this came out of central america long ago, could explain some differences, not sure.

You probably do have the stock 4speed trans. The first 4 speeds still used the clunky rattling shift linkage found on the 3speeds for the transfer case. They also did have the lower low range of the 3speed transfer, and these were the true conversion tranny, the source of the gear we all use to swap 4speeds onto 3speed transfers. Should be a good tranny settup.

As for windshield frames, why do you think you need a different one. Up until 1975 the windshield frame and tub was designed to accept the hard top or FST right off the line. The footman loops were present on them no matter what. The row of threaded holes in the top of the windshield frame was for bolting on the forward canvas rail. Footman loops in the back and then there should be 4 holes in the lip of the tub on each side above the wheel well. The single stud twist locks used on the jump seat straps mount there and hold the sides of the canvas down. One right behind the front doors for the stationary piece of canvas and three for the roll up sides. If you get the factory twistlocks and grommets and do all the factory attachments the top stays pretty good.

 

[mderrick]

So it seems this is a bit of mutt the more I dig, there is a electric fuel pump with janky fuels lines and what seems to be a few odds and ends parts.

The rail for the canvas over windshield frame will need some modifications so that the rope pull actually stays in place.

Thanks for the knowledge drop @MoCoNative

 

[MoCoNative]

Sorry I should have expanded on the windshield frame a bit more. You are correct that a unique frame would have been needed on the earlier 40's and 25's, the top rope rail was welded to those from the factory. The ehsan rail bolts right on the top of your frame if it has the row of threaded holes on the top, not the 4 holes in the front face, as you have discovered.

My ehsan top stays pretty good, the passenger side has worked out a couple of times, I can stuff it back in usually. I think what helps that is attaching the corners securely. Some have used a twist lock like on the back parts. I found there was not much room there for the oval grommet, plus it was pretty tight. I got some tarp grommets and put them through the top on each corner. I then used a countersunk head machine screw and went trhough the door bow, just like the hard top bolt does and the twist lock would have. I put a nut on it, then I stretched the top over the bolt with the grommet and put another nut on it, a nylock. Seems to hold it nice and tight then. Sorry hard to see but I have attached a pic.

 

[mderrick]

thanks @MoCoNative, i did use the 4 holes on top of the frame, the rail needs to move towards the rear of the truck so the gap is not so big as it currently allows the rope pull to pop out really easy.

 

[mderrick]

so the motor has gone to a new home here in Utah and the transmission and t-case got rebuilt and sent off to the south east for a new life in a new 40 project!

This past weekend I was able to get away for a bit and get some good cruiser time in.. We stripped down the front end of the 40 and prepped it for power steering and its new Diesel power plant. The motor mounts, fuel lines, wiring harness, and some brake lines and the factory steering setup were all removed from the engine bay. The interior also got stripped out in preparation for cleaning out the tank, fixing the seats, getting a few things painted the proper color and repairing the rust that was cut out of the back end.

 

[mderrick]

the wiring harness is not in the best shape.. i think i will need to find a donor harness.

 

[mderrick]

as you can see above the wiring situation is not the best... i have had a few plugs go the way of dust as the crumbled in my fingers... does anyone have a good source?i think i just need the shells the contacts are good enough..

 

[mderrick]

interested in what other folks are doing as far as head lights.. LED options? i found these here on MUD anyone have experience with them?

I am alos looking in to some kind of old looking radio that will fit the dash but be able to connect to a ipod/Phone via the blueteeth anyone have experience with this?

 

[ginmtb]

I don't have this but will when I do my 75 restoration: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/...ser-fj40-long-beach-radio?variant=29743811075

Also, I use @Racer65's headlights - the high beam is like daylight! Affordable and plug and play. LED Headlights for Land Cruiser FJ40 and Mini-Truck - Set of 2

 

[thebigredrocker]

Some of the LED headlights look a bit space age IMO. Found some KC’s that don’t look quite so hi tech. Looks like their 97-06 Jeep TJ/Universal version will plug into our cruisers. Spendy though.

 

[mderrick]

Some more has been done this week... swapped out the water pump and timing belt, but it looks like prior to me getting this motor is sat with coolant in it. flushed to block for a while back and forth until the water ran clean to clear out as much of the deposits as possible and installed the wiring harness..

things still to be done:
- repair and modify the wire harness
- finish PS conversion
- build a fan shroud
- new coolant
- new oil
- new fuel lines and filter
- run clutch lines and replace the slave cylinder
- modify the dog hose for the H55
- build the turbo dump pipe
- build the intake
- weld-in the oil return from the turbo
- other things that I am missing..

 

[mderrick]

found the right Dump pipe for what i am doing as well as a cross over pipe things are coming together!
I am planning to run the exhaust out the fender and over the frame since there is not room to run down the inside of the frame. hopefully we will be able to put 3" all the way out so it can breath easy..

dump pipe number 17291-17010