I've researched how to do the PHH replacement so I feel comfortable with that. My problem is getting started. How do you get the cotter pin style hose clamp out? The picture is the original PHH with 260,700 miles on it.
PHH attempt..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 79F250
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Same way you got the other one off...
I think I reached up with a pair of dykes and cut it off. With the other side off you can probably just leave that one and cut the hose down the side and pull it off the engine end
I think I reached up with a pair of dykes and cut it off. With the other side off you can probably just leave that one and cut the hose down the side and pull it off the engine end
A pair of angled side cutters or pliers that you can grip it and twist it.
I would be scared to death to go tweaking on that pipe though. Significant rust on things there.
Have you considered buying the factory PHH that comes with the steel coolant pipe already attached? Tough to get the bolt out of the back side, but most break off the bracket and move on.
I would be scared to death to go tweaking on that pipe though. Significant rust on things there.
Have you considered buying the factory PHH that comes with the steel coolant pipe already attached? Tough to get the bolt out of the back side, but most break off the bracket and move on.
- Thread starter
- #4
Yeah, its a northeast beast...... prior owner was not the best about maintenance. I'm thinking I should try to find a pair of long reach bent nose pliers. How fragile are those metal nipples coming out of the cylinder head?
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- #5
sounds like a good plan....
Forget the PHH, replace the engine! Seriously, see the above posts, cut it off but as
The one out of the head shouldn't bee too bad.
The thing to do is cut off the hose between the block nipple and the pipe nipple.
Then remove the clamp from the block nipple and twist off the clamp on the pipe nipple. Then slit the hose to peel it off. You could twist off the clamp on the pipe nipple FIRST so the hose supports the twisting motion, then do the other steps.
The block nipple uses a squeeze type clamp. Different from the one on the pipe nipple.
- Thread starter
- #8
It seems like get the cotter pin style clamp off first, slit the hose and then GENTLY try to twist the hose around to get the squeeze clamp off (of course it's in the wrong *&^%ing position..... why should I expect anything else?)
I think I used a length of hacksaw blade in a holder to cut that clamp off.
That thing is in a biotch of a location to get a twisting motion on it.
That thing is in a biotch of a location to get a twisting motion on it.
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From the looks of that rust, just reach thru the rusted hole in the floor board and your set! If you don't have one, just use the heel of your boot... 
Man, that's usually the easy part. I thought the squeeze clamp was super easy with a pair of channel locks, maybe slightly smaller needle nose pliers. Watch your knock sensor, Doubt you will get it out with that rust. Then your still in the easy part. I would save that hack saw and just cut that lower rigid pipe mount bolt from the top. I see some say they twist it off but that has to take hours... I couldn't get it. After the lower rigid pipe mount was chopped off it was easy to get to. I would leave the bolt if I was you as it probably wont come out with all that rust. top mount is easy and a straight shot. Plan on a new rigid pipe by the way that looks and likely the plastic heater valve up top once it crumbles trying to get that top 90 degrees hose off.
Man, that's usually the easy part. I thought the squeeze clamp was super easy with a pair of channel locks, maybe slightly smaller needle nose pliers. Watch your knock sensor, Doubt you will get it out with that rust. Then your still in the easy part. I would save that hack saw and just cut that lower rigid pipe mount bolt from the top. I see some say they twist it off but that has to take hours... I couldn't get it. After the lower rigid pipe mount was chopped off it was easy to get to. I would leave the bolt if I was you as it probably wont come out with all that rust. top mount is easy and a straight shot. Plan on a new rigid pipe by the way that looks and likely the plastic heater valve up top once it crumbles trying to get that top 90 degrees hose off.
@79F250 are you aware that there is another coolant hose just a little further forward of the PHH. If the PHH is in a crap state the chances are the bypass hose to the throttle body is also as bad. You may find that your best option is to pop off the throttle body and upper half of the intake. You will get super easy access to the PHH and the throttle body hose and as a bonus you can swap out the vacuum lines that hide under the intake.
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- #12
Yup! I'm aware of that one too. I don't have the time or facilities to pull the intake (no garage, just a driveway). Any hints or tips for tackling the second hose are more than welcome.
- Thread starter
- #13
I know the rust looks bad< but the rest of the vehicle is not TOO bad for a NY state LC. My avatar is what it looked like the day I bought it in March 2019From the looks of that rust, just reach thru the rusted hole in the floor board and your set! If you don't have one, just use the heel of your boot...
Man, that's usually the easy part. I thought the squeeze clamp was super easy with a pair of channel locks, maybe slightly smaller needle nose pliers. Watch your knock sensor, Doubt you will get it out with that rust. Then your still in the easy part. I would save that hack saw and just cut that lower rigid pipe mount bolt from the top. I see some say they twist it off but that has to take hours... I couldn't get it. After the lower rigid pipe mount was chopped off it was easy to get to. I would leave the bolt if I was you as it probably wont come out with all that rust. top mount is easy and a straight shot. Plan on a new rigid pipe by the way that looks and likely the plastic heater valve up top once it crumbles trying to get that top 90 degrees hose off.
MoJ
Moderator
Removing just the throttle body is pretty easy/straightforward and that will give you access to the phh neighbor (second hose). As far as your phh - either replace the hose and the pipe or do the phh workaround which eliminates the pipe and instead uses a length of hose to bypass the pipe. Either method is fine and reliable.
Do you have a Dremel tool? Could probably cut the band off with a cut-off wheel if you can reach it.
Get a set of hose pliers to manipulate the hose back and forth without bending the pipe under it. Also good for firewall heater hoses
Get a set of hose pliers to manipulate the hose back and forth without bending the pipe under it. Also good for firewall heater hoses
Yeah, I'm just messing with you. In all honesty these last two posts are probably spot on. It may sound harder and more work but ultimately it's probably a really good idea and in the log run save a lot of frustration and time. Maybe find a few other issues when in there.
- Thread starter
- #18
There's ALWAYS other issues! Honestly, before last week, the only thing I've done to it was to replace the rear pinion seal. Okay and an air filter and CLD switch. Other than that I just put gas in it and checked the oil. However back in August, the radiator blew (bottom tank) and it sat until last week. Just collecting parts in anticipation (Thank you Wits End, Photoman, Four Runner, Toyota Parts Deal!)
The throttle body mounts to the front of the upper intake manifold.
MoJ
Moderator
Throttle body
Adding:
Remove air filter lid. Remove the big rubber intake hose. Remove four bolts holding the throttle body to the intake. Lift up the throttle body for access to the top end of the hose. If you want to take it a step further disconnect the vacuum hoses and cable from the throttle body in order remove it from the truck and give it a thorough cleaning.
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