- Thread starter
- #41
That seems to be the consensus. That will my plan B. I'm going to try removing the TB and try it that way.
PHH attempt.....
- Thread starter 79F250
- Start date
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I would also wonder about the rear heater lines on a rig this rusty. I would think about bypassing those too while you have the system open.
I kept my PHH pipe but it was in better shape than yours and I would also consider bypassing that too.
I kept my PHH pipe but it was in better shape than yours and I would also consider bypassing that too.
Same. Mine were in rough shape and I never used it anyway. I bypassed them and removed the heater under the seat then welded a patch in to seal it off.
Nice! Mine ruptured a week after I bought the truck and being a noob, I thought I blew the head gasket so I ended up doing that little project and then once I realized I was an idiot, I bypassed my rear heater lines too.
Man, talk about "well while I'm in there"....Nice! Mine ruptured a week after I bought the truck and being a noob, I thought I blew the head gasket so I ended up doing that little project and then once I realized I was an idiot, I bypassed my rear heater lines too.
For those of you that are considering using a utility knife or razorblade to cut hoses off, be cautious and make sure you are not scoring the tubes, nipples etc. Even a shallow score can cause a slow leak with a new hose.
- Thread starter
- #48
Okay, news update........ I did not attempt the PHH yet. I'm thinking of getting the tube/hose assembly and replacing as entire unit. Got the cooling system buttoned up, everything runs as it should. Using Thermocure and distilled water for the next few days (187 degrees temp according to Innova model 5210 OBD II reader). NOW,.... getting misfire codes P0300, P0301, P0306. Never had any issues before. Researched misfiring on MUD, got some directions to go in. When I was trying to start it up after getting everything back together, I had forgotten one crucial element (coil wire to cap, duuhhhh........) Before I figured that out, I had sprayed some starting fluid in the air cleaner thinking that I had an old gas problem, could I have damaged something in the MAF system resulting in misfires?
- Thread starter
- #50
It is not the rotor or cap. I just confirmed it. The harness is not touching the EGR pipe, the clamp is intact and doing its job.
- Thread starter
- #51
I am getting codes for #1 cylinder and #6 cylinder misfire as well as random misfire and tonight code P0171 system bank #1 too lean. I will have to verify the harness by the EGR is not the problem tomorrow and will have to check the MAF tube for cracks. Are there any other areas I should look at?
Hey I’m doing mine as we speak. I would start by gathering all of the firewall hoses. Budget about $150.
You will definitely need some very compact cut off tool like a hobby size to cut those bands off as yours look to be rusted on. You can try to make a solution of rust off (acetone and transmission fluid, google this) to help break the rust off. The cotton pin has an ART to removing it. You turn it left to release tension (I use a small HF pick) and then pull the pin out (Needle nose pliers). Then you unwind the metal band.
To train yourself on the function of the cotter pin style, start by removing all of the hoses on the firewall and then you will be able to carefully study and see how the cotter pin style works. Once you understand how the cotter pin works you’ll be able to properly disengage it. You need to ask yourself if you going to be using the bypass method or using the hard pipe. I think if you do bypass, you loose the rear heating option. IDK, dont quote me.
I would advise you to get the extended 12mm 6 point wrench as you get it over the bolt and loosen it out. The first 12mm on top is easy, but the bottom one is hard. I had to remove 2 baked on hoses and some other things to get leverage. Once I had room, that extended 12mm in the photo i was able to slip it on and turn it off. I broke the bolt in the process, but I don't think it matters as some have broken it off on purpose to replace the hose.
You will definitely need some very compact cut off tool like a hobby size to cut those bands off as yours look to be rusted on. You can try to make a solution of rust off (acetone and transmission fluid, google this) to help break the rust off. The cotton pin has an ART to removing it. You turn it left to release tension (I use a small HF pick) and then pull the pin out (Needle nose pliers). Then you unwind the metal band.
To train yourself on the function of the cotter pin style, start by removing all of the hoses on the firewall and then you will be able to carefully study and see how the cotter pin style works. Once you understand how the cotter pin works you’ll be able to properly disengage it. You need to ask yourself if you going to be using the bypass method or using the hard pipe. I think if you do bypass, you loose the rear heating option. IDK, dont quote me.
I would advise you to get the extended 12mm 6 point wrench as you get it over the bolt and loosen it out. The first 12mm on top is easy, but the bottom one is hard. I had to remove 2 baked on hoses and some other things to get leverage. Once I had room, that extended 12mm in the photo i was able to slip it on and turn it off. I broke the bolt in the process, but I don't think it matters as some have broken it off on purpose to replace the hose.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Thank you very much! Extremely helpful. One small benefit is that I can justify almost any tool purchase to make this happen!
you might as well consider replacing all of those rubber hoses back there. this is a GREAT thread to get you started and you will find yourself at the PHH
PHH OEM style close up pics
I changed out my PHH today. Took a long time. I don't know how some guys get this done in a couple of hours -- took me all day. With so many great write ups out there I am not going to attempt another complete description, but grabbed some close up pics that might help the next guy. Note...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #55
New update............
I'm pretty sure the head gasket is blown.you might as well consider replacing all of those rubber hoses back there. this is a GREAT thread to get you started and you will find yourself at the PHH
PHH OEM style close up pics
I changed out my PHH today. Took a long time. I don't know how some guys get this done in a couple of hours -- took me all day. With so many great write ups out there I am not going to attempt another complete description, but grabbed some close up pics that might help the next guy. Note...
Well,....news update.........I'm pretty sure the head gasket is blown. After 10 minutes of idling, temp on the scanner says 208 degrees, exhaust starts getting cloudy (whitish gray) and reeks of either thermocure or really noxious exhaust fumes. Removed radiator cap and smelled coolant, smelled like exhaust at the tailpipe. I can do the work myself with the exception of the machine work. How much are we talking $$$ wise and time-wise??you might as well consider replacing all of those rubber hoses back there. this is a GREAT thread to get you started and you will find yourself at the PHH
PHH OEM style close up pics
I changed out my PHH today. Took a long time. I don't know how some guys get this done in a couple of hours -- took me all day. With so many great write ups out there I am not going to attempt another complete description, but grabbed some close up pics that might help the next guy. Note...
Doing the work yourself, buying Toyota gaskets and related stuff, including the machining costs, probably in the $1500 range depending on the machining. Head machining in our area is about $600 for the head to be checked, valves ground, new seals.
Time estimate can vary widely based on tools and experience. I would guess realistically 12-16 hours of disassembly with labeling, tagging, bagging.
Time estimate for assembly would be in the 20 hour range, depending on proficiency and how much cleanup you did while awaiting the head being machined.
During the 2 week interval to get your head back you should be cleaning, changing broken injector plugs, installing new vacuum hoses, cleaning the intake manifold, changing fuel filter, painting everything, replacing coolant hoses. All of that should take another 30 hours.
Or, you can pound through it all and not OCD it and have it pulled and replaced in about 16 hours if you have another head sitting and ready to go.
- Thread starter
- #57
Weeell........... I guess I will contact the machine shop tomorrow and get ballpark figures for machine work and start making a parts list. I know it would be easier to pull the engine, but don't really want to.
- Thread starter
- #58
Is that a gearWrench brand?
Hey sorry to hear @79F250 , all I can say is this truck is the easiest vehicle I’ve ever worked on, and it’s built my confidence to work on other cars. Forge through this because as long as you maintain this thing, it will take care of you. My dad and friends have Jeeps and they are way complicated to keep jobs. These trucks are designed for the worse places