paul dinapoli - H55 swap thread (1 Viewer)

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portland oregon
going to use this to document my A440 to H55 swap.

here's a link to my google spreadsheet i've been using to keep track of parts and such
H55F cost sheet

Thanks @orangefj45 for many phone calls and the shipment of parts to get me rolling.

Josh at Willamette helped me out by doing a t-case rebuild and attaching the t-case to the tranny for me - this was not something I wanted to tackle myself.

Day 1... I get to claim 2 easy victories...got the clutch master installed and the pedal bucket squared away with no downtime.


I REALLY did not want to do this to my truck...i was actually dreading this so much I was thinking i'd fabricate something to bolt in under the dash if I had to..
EDIT: this is not my dashboard...I grabbed a screenshot of someone else's project as an example
upload_2018-3-31_16-41-0.png


My approach: I found a used pedal bucket on ebay for $40.00 - figured that's cheap enough to experiment with.

it took all of 5 minutes to drill out the spot welds and separate the clutch pedal pivot housing from the larger pedal bucket assembly
upload_2018-3-31_16-43-47.png


the metal separated with almost no disfigurement whatsoever...couple light taps with the hammer on the vise straightened out the tabs and it's ready to install.


fitment: the general shape of the sheet metal lines up perfectly with the top side of the pedal bucket under the steering column - this helped line it up well enough that I felt good about it being in the right place - no major problems with trying to locate the thing in 3 dimensional space in tight quarters.

the original pedal bucket has a hole in the side for where the collar and shaft would line up...so i used a long piece of 1/4-20 to secure the piece into place - this helped orient it and squeeze it in nice and snug so i could do some drilling and screwing.
upload_2018-3-31_16-49-47.png



I secured it with some stainless sheet metal screws to hold it in place while i used an angle drill to open up some larger holes to bolt it all together.
upload_2018-3-31_16-55-34.png


so - for day 1 - i feel pretty good about progress...i was able to do this without destroying the dash!



still waiting on bell housing and related parts so i'm hold until the rest of my parts arrive...then i'll begin the tear down of the automatic.

IMG_8760.JPG
 
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Watching. This is in my future. Thanks for documenting your journey.
 
Thanks for the kind words, always happy to help.

And thanks for starting this thread and documenting the conversion to help guide others and share the info.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
Great thread. You'll love the way it drives when you're done!
 
Exciting.

Quick thread hijack, what is the coating on your firewall and maybe on the cross member I see in the tranny pick as well?

Cheers
coating? not sure i follow...whatchoo talkin bout willis?

edit: AH - coating i think you're talking about that greyish/greenish color on the sheet metal?

my truck is charcoal grey - and the firewall pic is just poor lighting...it's the factory spray...probably the color of the primer they used for trucks of certain colors?

also - the hunk of metal you called the cross member is actually just the pedal bucket that is installed under the dash behind the instrument cluster.

That it happens to match my truck exactly is either just a coincidence - or that was the standard factory coating for all trucks? i'm sure i've seen pics of red pedal buckets...so they must have used a few different base color sprays.

hope that answers.
 
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Following. You will be pleased when done.
 
The grey , in the engine compt. Is it POR, 2k primer, a hearty paint, etc? Looking for options. Never even thought to make it anything different than the factory 033 that I’ve got but yours looks kinda cool.
 
thanks for the delivery of part @3_puppies!!

question for someone that has done a clutch on our trucks - is this really all that holds the clutch fork onto that pivot stud inside the bellhousing?

getting ready for the big tear down to start this weekend - cleaning parts I received from the other Paul.

this connection seems very loose and fragile.

thoughts?
 
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Yep-loose and fragile it is. Once it's installed, it's more secure, but you need to be very careful when you stab the tranny into the pilot bearing. Both fork and ball are available from Toyota, or at least they were when I did mine.
 
Yep-loose and fragile it is. Once it's installed, it's more secure, but you need to be very careful when you stab the tranny into the pilot bearing. Both fork and ball are available from Toyota, or at least they were when I did mine.
thanks cruiserdrew. beat me to the reply with the photo. my internet bounced while i was uploading the pic.

the fork wobbles around on that ball/socket joint like i do when i'm drinking beer...which is pretty wobbly.
 
Once it's supported by the installed throwout hub/Transmission input and the slave cylinder linkage, it's actually much more secure. Be careful you don't bend those tiny wire supports. Ask me how I know! I want to say, though, the replacement clutch fork I got from Toyota was less than $20 if it comes to it. Also, I recommend you use only a Toyota throw out bearing.

I also thought the Toyota clutch had better feel than the LUK clutch I'm using now in my FJ62, even though the LUK clutch works fine and has a good reputation.
 
OK - next question for the gurus

I bought the clutch kit Georg @orangefj45 recommended off amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-CKT-03...e=UTF8&qid=1523584412&sr=1-1&keywords=ckt-032

the used clutch fork / hub / BH and other parts came off a truck from @3_puppies <-- do you know what year these parts came from - and did they come from same truck?

these T/O bearings look mighty different. do i have a problem here?
View attachment 1676221

bellhousing and fork are from the same vintage, late 85-87, hub is from a mid 70's 40, hubs are the same thru the years. the bearing changes.
hope that helps, good to see it all arrived.
and as others said, the fork will feel better once the bearing is supported by the input shaft collar on the trans.
 
TO bearing is a different (but compatible) design. I had the same question on my swap.
 
decent room to work with ( I hope)
upload_2018-4-13_19-27-1.png
 
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seats out - carpet on the way out
upload_2018-4-13_20-10-47.png
 
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helper always at the ready
upload_2018-4-13_22-12-45.png
 
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