Builds Over the Hills, and Far Away

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Today's Cruising: I found part of the reason that my factory driver's-side seat is a bit squeaky.

Pictured: Missing parts, as (not) seen here.

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See that little bushing that's not around the pivot pin? Me neither...but it's supposed to be there. I don't have time to get one and I don't have the materials to make one, so if the Prado hinges don't just immediately bolt in I can attempt to cannibalize some of their parts via further disassembly. I've been meaning to take a hinge apart, anyway...so, we'll see.
 
...why can't it ever just be easy?

Pictured: Because reasons, that's why.


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I know I was bad in a past life, but this is just pouring salt on the wound; this piece of garbage was an intact bushing until I took it out. Turns out that part of the design is that it basically clip-wedges itself in place, so when it's time to pull the frames apart there's an earth-shattering *tink!* and tiny pieces of plastic hit the floor alongside all of your hopes for simple solutions to things that shouldn't be problems in the first place.

Also, I won't be able to just use the entirety of the off-side Prado hinge... mostly because this isn't even part of an actual, separate hinge. That side of the pivot mechanism on the seat is actually part of the frame itself, so it can't be disassembled...at least not as best I can tell. Looks like I'm either going to be ordering replacements and sliding them into place, or figuring out a better solution.

Hmmmmm....
 
...aaaaaaand shipping on the front seat bushings is $40-something, plus the tax, plus the $6 in bushings themselves. So, it's literally cheaper to buy the tooling and materials to install actual bushings and spacers than it is to order the factory part. I mean, I can't bash the factory stuff too much because it managed to hold up for 20+ years, but since I have things already apart it seems like this might be a good time to put some better/stronger/thicker material in place. And for seriously, that $40 shipping charge just sucks.
 
...aaaaaaand shipping on the front seat bushings is $40-something, plus the tax, plus the $6 in bushings themselves. So, it's literally cheaper to buy the tooling and materials to install actual bushings and spacers than it is to order the factory part. I mean, I can't bash the factory stuff too much because it managed to hold up for 20+ years, but since I have things already apart it seems like this might be a good time to put some better/stronger/thicker material in place. And for seriously, that $40 shipping charge just sucks.
That spicy shipping charge is how I always end up with little bits I'd probably never replace otherwise filling boxes. While I'm shipping sh1t I NEED across the globe I think a few battery post covers, interior clips, clamps and crap I don't need... won't increase the S/H charge too much. Not great logic. Don't tell my ol' lady.
 
Is this something you can find at McMaster Carr? Looks like a nylon washer to me.

No and yes, respectively. 🤣

It's a very, very special bushing; it looks like the simplest thing in the world until you start measuring it. The hinge pin is 12.5mm in diameter with an 8mm by 1.25mm slot... so we're screwed from the get-go because there's no such thing as a 12.5mm bushing that can be easily sourced. Furthermore, the wall thickness of the bushing is only 1.25mm...so we have a 14mm outside diameter. Nothing commonly-available is made with that thin of a wall; especially not any of the normal flanged sleeve bearings that one would attempt to use. The outer diameter of the flange is 24mm, the thickness is 2mm, and the overall depth of the bushing is 8mm...and none of those values go together in the off-the-shelf parts that I've found in most any material. There is also the matter of the machined retention clips, and that's just a bridge too far. So...what we're left with is either finding a bushing that we can turn into what we need (not easy without a lathe mandrel that I don't have) or finding the stuff to assemble one that'll hold up as well or better than the factory one. Or...

That spicy shipping charge is how I always end up with little bits I'd probably never replace otherwise filling boxes. While I'm shipping sh1t I NEED across the globe I think a few battery post covers, interior clips, clamps and crap I don't need... won't increase the S/H charge too much. Not great logic. Don't tell my ol' lady.

We go this route. I need to order some new door seals and some of the foam stuff that seals my rear quarter windows, so I'll probably get a few of these little bastards in the box when I order those...but that's gonna be another month or so, before they get here. So, I'm still kind of stuck: I can easily drill the 14mm mounting hole to .625", which is just a hair away from 16mm - and that hole is in 2mm steel, so it's not gonna be difficult - and then push a reamed-to-12.5mm Oilite™ bushing onto the hinge pin shaft. Add two UHMW washers that are 3mm thick on each side of the 2mm-thick steel plate and replace the E-clip, and I'm at the full 8mm, albeit with self-lubricating materials and twice the bushing thickness around the pin.

Also, thanks for reminding me: I need to redo my battery cables. I've been meaning to build those for awhile, now. 👍
 
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The things you find, once your upholstery guru tears the seat apart...

Pictured: Uhhh...

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That, Dear Reader, would be what we politely refer to as "some dodgy f***ing work" which means that the needle on my Bolster-Rebuild-o-Meter just went into the red...and I didn't even know that I had that meter, until now.

Also, I'm missing the seat tension spring on the driver's side, we've discovered - so that's why the driver's-side seat doesn't automatically slide forward... - and I need to order that; does anyone know the difference between part numbers 90506-16053 and 90506-18070?
 
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A quick update on the upholstery: it's going to anger the purists, but we're gonna make a couple of changes to things while we have the seats in various pieces...
  • No more nets on the seat backs; they're a nice idea but I never liked them due to all of the snagging that takes place when you try to put ANYTHING into and/or out of them. It's almost as if a net is, you know, designed to ensnare things.
  • No more piping on the seams of the seats. It's a recipe for fabric abrasion later on, so we're either going to top-stitch or French-stitch the seams; Toyota used both in the 70-series (look at your parking brake boot) so I see no reason to not use one or the other options on the seats.
  • The bolsters are kind of completely and totally dead...and there's no wire support in them, either. OEM foam isn't available, so those are going to have to be rebuilt. Yay.
  • Seat heaters shouldn't be an issue; looks like these are just narrow enough to fit; they're WAY too tall, but we can adjust that.
  • The Prado seat bushings were unusable, but the hinge mechanisms are giving me lots of insight into things...so I'm going to just keep my factory hinges in place for now, but I may have some further modifications to make at a later time.
  • The hinge bushings themselves - having long since worn out on both seats - have allowed a bit of extra play to exist between the pins/shafts and the mounting holes, and that movement has in turn created some excess wear in the holes. Thus, we will not be using a new factory bushing; instead, I'll ream the holes to .625", give them a lick or two with the file to allow a nice passage for a 16mm bronze sleeve bushing, and start working on that replacement solution.
That's all I have regarding the seats at current; I should know more, tomorrow. In unrelated news, I took the opportunity to clean up the cockpit...

Pictured: [ contentment intensifies ]

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...and to knock out a couple of related projects. First and foremost, I finally got my new console lid installed; the old one wasn't too bad, but something about the little bit of scratching always bothered me...so I grabbed a new one before we left NC, which means that it's only taken me ten months to get around to unwrapping it.

Pictured: My procrastination level is above 9000.

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Today's second big win was replacing my not-so-nice parking brake lever. Although most of the rig's interior plastic is in good shape, the parking brake lever handle was easily the worst bit in there; scroll back up and through various posts, and you'll catch sight of it. I honestly don't know how it got so bad, but it was bad...like "pieces of it randomly flake away in my hands as if it's actively decaying" levels of badness. Sometimes, I seriously wonder if the guy that had this thing back in Japan just had some incredibly sweaty palms and was in the habit of riding with his hand wrapped around that brake lever; it was that smurfed-up. Now, however, it's in much better shape, as can be seen in the above photos...but getting it installed took about ten minutes longer than should have been required. I went to bolt the new assembly into place and I realized that there was a tiny retainer tab on the bottom of the cable-routing-cam-thingy that wasn't present on my original brake-dingus...

Pictured: Seen here.

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...and that little projection - when not folded-in - meant the whole thing wouldn't fit into the alcove. So, naturally, I gently folded the tab over the cable and everything went completely according to plan.

Except that it didn't. The tab immediately broke when I pushed on it, so I just grabbed a small file and erased all evidence of it having ever existed.

Pictured: In Soviet Russia, file delete you.

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And that's about where I've left things, for today; I realized that I need a new parking brake lever boot, but that's a decision for tomorrow. I have some bulbs to replace and some wipers and arms to install, so after I knock those out I'll probably get into figuring out my bed situation; there's literally not enough space, so I have no idea what I'm going to do...but whatevs. Eventually, I'll get it sorted out.

Stay tuned.
 
Pictured: Things I don't like doing.

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Yep, that's some makeshift thread-chasing, right there; my shop vise is mostly-disassembled at the moment, so I had to throw the die into the milling vise...and that method works, but it's cumbersome. But the thread-chasing itself isn't really the part that I don't like: what I don't like is the fact that I'm chasing threads on my seat bolts...which had become deformed when someone removed and reinstalled the driver's seat. The threading on the welded-in nuts was damaged as well...so I got to run a tap through those, too.

Pictured: And of course, there wasn't enough room for a proper handle...

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I didn't really do a before-and-after of the mounting bolts, but there was some significant rounding-over present...but my question is this: how on earth did it happen in the first place? Like, honestly: how do you basically cross-thread a bolt and/or nut when they're the same thread pitch? I checked the undamaged passenger side: M10x1.25 on both the nut and bolt...and on the least-damaged of the driver's-side bolts, it was the same. The other three on that side were a different story; thankfully, the chasing remedied everything, although the threads are a touch looser now from having the rounding removed. They should still work, though.

In other news...

Pictured: Bushing parts! And seat bolts; forgot I put those there.

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And some drill bits, and some broken stuff that I need to fix tomorrow: I'm debating on whether or not to drag the little welder out and tack that one bracket back to the driver's-side suspension base... -

Oh, yeah, forgot to mention that, too: whomsoever had the seat apart broke the welds on this part of it after they finished nearly-stripping the bolts, because reasons. Alternatively, I could just pull the suspension base and bring it inside, which is a much better plan now that I've thought of it. The bracket will actually still work without being welded, but I'd feel better for having it done correctly. Regardless, the bushings for the seat should work nicely as soon as I have them correctly drilled, which may be a process in and of itself because I have no idea where the chuck center is for my lathe tailstock. But, that's Tomorrow Me's problem; right now, Tonight Me is a little too excited to be fretting over problems like "how am I gonna drill a bushing without a tailstock chuck?"...

Pictured: Spy Photo.

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Now that looks better. Stay tuned.
 
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Man, tons of nuances, but that seat is looking SUPERB!!

I hope it looks as good in person as it does in that photo; we decided on a French seam with stitching that basically mimics the Toyota parking brake boot...which uses French seams, top-stitch seams, glue, leather ties, witchcraft and several other methods to join its panels, but that's another topic. I like the piping delete; it's not factory, but it's lower-snag and I'm an inept creature on my best of days. Also, from what I'm told, the upholsterer didn't even have to cut down the heater panels; they run the full length of the base and the full height of the back...so that's gonna be a nice bun warmer on cool mornings. Now, getting them wired up to a pair of Toyota High/Low heater switches might be fun...but again: Tomorrow/Future Me's problem.

That Cruiser will be perfection after all the hard work you are putting into it.

Thank you; it's a lot of work, but I'm enjoying it. The only sad part is that despite all the work, I'm still going to do so. many. horrible. things. to it along the way. 🤣

Now, where in the hell is that tailstock chuck? I didn't want to have to do this the hard way...
 
Have you thought about running your rack supports down to the top of the body/bottom of the roof top utilizing some of the top’s mounting bolts to mount some plate steel to attach the supports to.
Like guy do to mount a lumber rack over a camper shell on a pickup truck ?
 
Have you thought about running your rack supports down to the top of the body/bottom of the roof top utilizing some of the top’s mounting bolts to mount some plate steel to attach the supports to.
Like guy do to mount a lumber rack over a camper shell on a pickup truck ?

Believe it or not, I have! This being said: I haven't yet chased that method down, because I couldn't quickly solve the issue of what to do about the increased gap between the top and the body, doors, windshield, etc. I think the rear wouldn't be too bad to sort out, but I have no idea what to do about the rest; once the door recess moves upwards, I'm somewhat lost. Same for the windshield. Thoughts on how to solve those issues?
 
Believe it or not, I have! This being said: I haven't yet chased that method down, because I couldn't quickly solve the issue of what to do about the increased gap between the top and the body, doors, windshield, etc. I think the rear wouldn't be too bad to sort out, but I have no idea what to do about the rest; once the door recess moves upwards, I'm somewhat lost. Same for the windshield. Thoughts on how to solve those issues?
I would think to cut out the rubber seal where the plate steel would be and use some type of silicone sealer around the steel.
I would think two on each side back corners and as close to front door as possible, let the rest of the rack cantilever towards the windshield.
This would also keep weight down not having to go all the down the bumpers/sliders with the supports.
 
Your thread is a good read 😎
We’re you a writer in a previous life ?
 
I would think to cut out the rubber seal where the plate steel would be and use some type of silicone sealer around the steel.

Not a bad idea, pending that the joint between the rubber seal and the silicon/whatever replacement could be made waterproof. I wonder how large the gasket cuts and mounting plates would have to be... 🤔

I would think two on each side back corners and as close to front door as possible, let the rest of the rack cantilever towards the windshield.
This would also keep weight down not having to go all the down the bumpers/sliders with the supports.

Weight is always a concern, with me; ounces unaccounted make for pounds uninvited...and yeah, the front is an interesting area to sort out. I've been thinking heavily on that solution, and I kind of know what I want to do...but wants and possibilities don't often intermingle. I'll definitely give the cantilever idea some attention from the little grey cells; thank you.

Also, to your second question: no, I was never a professional writer. Back in the day, I did have a build thread on another forum, but that's the extent of my publication history. Regardless, thanks again, and I'm glad that you're enjoying it; that's half the reason I'm even authoring it in the first place.
 
Not a bad idea, pending that the joint between the rubber seal and the silicon/whatever replacement could be made waterproof. I wonder how large the gasket cuts and mounting plates would have to be... 🤔



Weight is always a concern, with me; ounces unaccounted make for pounds uninvited...and yeah, the front is an interesting area to sort out. I've been thinking heavily on that solution, and I kind of know what I want to do...but wants and possibilities don't often intermingle. I'll definitely give the cantilever idea some attention from the little grey cells; thank you.

Also, to your second question: no, I was never a professional writer. Back in the day, I did have a build thread on another forum, but that's the extent of my publication history. Regardless, thanks again, and I'm glad that you're enjoying it; that's half the reason I'm even authoring it in the first place.
You must have at least taken some college level writing classes!

I think I'm going to scrap the RTT want.... Off-roading the other day made me realise just how much more high centered my Cruiser is versus the D90 that I had. Both were lifted the same height and same size tires.
 
You must have at least taken some college level writing classes!

Sadly, no; I never had one. My last writing class was AP Literature and Composition in my senior year of high school, which qualified for my required credit hours in writing; I took several other literature classes that I much enjoyed - Feminist Deconstruction of British Literature notwithstanding - but I never had an actual writing/composition class in college. In retrospect, this was a mistake; my writing skills would likely be much better had I allowed myself some professional instruction at a more advanced level. This being said, I do appreciate the compliment; I try my best to keep things interesting for everyone while still conveying information in my own, individual voice...except, of course, for literally every time I use the phrase "Dear Reader." That's nothing more than a pathetically-transparent love letter to Charlotte Brontë, because I am completely in love with every sentence that woman ever penned.

I think I'm going to scrap the RTT want.... Off-roading the other day made me realise just how much more high centered my Cruiser is versus the D90 that I had. Both were lifted the same height and same size tires.

First of all: wise decision. From the pics you posted in your thread the other day, I can categorically state that you're already pushing that rig far more than most rooftop tent owners; in the third image you're around 35° on that side slope - possibly more - and that's approximately 34° more tilt than most rooftop-tent-equipped rigs actually see on the rare occasions that they actually get used...but that's a different topic entirely. The point is this: if I'm purposefully taking a rig into obstacle-ridden terrain for the purpose of pushing through sidehills, ledges, climbs, descents, sluices, and - in the immortal words of Loc Dog - "all kinds of ill s***" - I have zero desire to place the 80+ pounds of a rooftop tent on the vehicle; it's a pointless amount of weight being carried in the worst possible place. Thanks, but no thanks.

Now, if I was going to do long trips on mostly-flat ground and I had a very good reason to not sleep on said ground - like, if I was crossing Australia or sub-Saharan Africa, or another place that's filled with things that have Sneak Attack as a class feature - then I would absolutely grab a rooftop tent and happily snore the night away...but I'd also have a set of traction ladders, extra winch lines, some ground tackle, a few extra liters of fuel and water, and - again - all kinds of ill s*** that I don't need when I'm out playing around at the local park. You build for the task at hand, as I'm sure you know.

As far as the Cruiser being more tipsy than a D90 is concerned: aside from that statement being malicious propaganda* of the highest order, there's more than just lift and tire height involved, as I'm sure you know. In this case, I don't think it's even a question of dimensionality being somewhat opposed to mass distribution: I would start looking at how your suspension is being loaded. When I hear "unstable" or "high centered" or "F***, dude, this thing is about to go over" I start thinking about whether or not the shocks, springs and antisway bars are doing what they're supposed to be doing when the rig is leaning/tilting in any given direction. If we had control arms on these rigs I would be looking at those, as well...but even with basic leaves, dynamic stability comes first and foremost from the suspension; that being said, I would also start thinking about tire pressures and loading, and how masses shift when the vehicle tilts, and whether or not the vehicle just feels a bit more wobbly, as opposed to actually being less-stable. Perception is a powerful force; hell, you can shift sideways in a seat and think the rig is going to go over, when in reality there's no danger at all. Been there and done that more than a few times; only rolled one once from my weight shifting, though.

Oh, speaking of seats:

Picture: Why, hello there, you lovely things...

PXL_20231117_013254360.PORTRAIT.jpg



I'm rarely happy with things because I always see room for improvement, or because I find where the corners were cut, or because someone just phoned it in and said "yeah, that'll work"...but I'm happy with these results. I'd like to give Mike Witecki at Deschutes Upholstery in Olympia, Washington some well-deserved credit for doing a fantastic job at realizing the goal that I set: a modified factory seat that would wear, function and look better than the factory cloth-covered options. I think he delivered in spades; he rebuilt the parts that needed attention, replaced and modified the lower bolsters to make them a bit more comfortable for me, installed full-size seat heaters and trimmed up everything to reduce and simplify the number of seams while keeping the factory Toyota look, and he did it all within the budget that he originally quoted. I'm my opinion, they look very good; good stitching, sensible layout, and the vinyl match is almost dead-on for the door material. Not only that, but I have a couple of yards of vinyl left over for additional projects. That's a win-win-win, in my book; the only problem is that they definitely don't match the parking brake boot.

Pictured: Because of course they don't.

PXL_20231117_022313704.jpg



Serious Question: what the hell is it, with Toyota and their use of fifty different shades of grey in the same interior? That concept not only makes for a horrible hodgepodge of value and execution in books, but also in automotive colorways: it's just...busy. It's overly busy. Thankfully, I need to replace that shifter boot anyway, so Mike is just going to build one for me that matches, because two grey vinyls that are this different being right next to each other is how I loose sleep at nights. I also lose sleep at nights over loose, broken, missing bushings that make my seats rattle a bit through their non-presence.

Pictured: So, I fixed that.

PXL_20231117_021207409.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg



Terrible photo, but that's my Mk I solution; a bronze flanged sleeve bearing machined to fit the 12.5mm seat hinge pin, fitted through a 16mm hole in the seat frame (reamed from 14mm) and secured by an e-clip that's backed by UHMW in the form of a spacer washer. It's almost an interference fit, so the bronze should hold up very well; a single drop of light oil will be enough lubrication for a long, long time.

This being said...

I may reverse the installation of the bushing and the washer. My only concern about this arrangement is that I might prefer the UHMW as a silencer between the two metal planes of the seat frame; the material is effectively a wax, and it's even better as a wear surface than the bronze...but popping that bushing into place from the back of the frame is a bit of a fiddly pain and it was late when I was working on this, last night...and I had already sliced my hand open on a bridge reamer, which we will not discuss because it makes me sound like even more of a moron than I am. Instead, we'll just look at a picture of the sleek and net-free seat backs.

Pictured: Retiarii everywhere are weeping at the loss of entanglement.

PXL_20231117_021829640.PORTRAIT.jpg



I know it looks plain, but I just don't use seat-back pockets...and with an in-vehicle sleeping arrangement still being considered, I don't want to deal with snaggy-flavored surfaces in immediate proximity to sleepy-flavored platforms; that's almost as bad of an idea as a rooftop tent on a crawler. Also, I'm not sure that the seat heater power cables are going to remain in those exact places; I need to start working on the rest of the harness so that I can site some relays and figure out exactly where the connectors need to be located, and the power routed. My 24-volt source will be only a few inches away, under the console...but the switches are located in the lower part of the central dash, and because that's a significant distance away...-
...
...
...you know, I could find a different place for those switches. Hmmm....

Okay, that's a thought for Future Me, yet again; also, wow...Past Me is really kind of a dick about things. Meanwhile, Present Me has a bit of restoration work to do on the driver's-side seat bushing area, and a hole to ream, and some replacement e-clips to find; I ordered some from McMaster-Carr, and although they fit they're of a much smaller outer diameter than the stock e-clips...of which I only have one. Four total pins...only one e-clip; go figure. So it's gonna be a quick run over to Tacoma Screw to see if they have something that'll fit, and if not, I'll definitely be flipping the bronze/UHMW arrangement; the replacement e-clips will easily hold the flat surface of the sleeve bushing in place, but they don't have a lot of engagement on the UHMW, because diameters. I'll grab a picture later to make that otherwise-cryptic statement more clear. For now, here's the current state of things:

Pictured: Had them rebuilt 24 hours ago, and I already have them on the bench, being taken apart. Le sigh...I make bad choices.

PXL_20231117_023349715.PORTRAIT.jpg



Also, I really need to organize the garage. Like, really. But that's Future Me's problem as well...because, yeah. That.

Stay tuned.

*- Propaganda: what happens when a Brit takes a really good look at something.
 
Seats look fantastic!!
 
Sadly, no; I never had one. My last writing class was AP Literature and Composition in my senior year of high school, which qualified for my required credit hours in writing; I took several other literature classes that I much enjoyed - Feminist Deconstruction of British Literature notwithstanding - but I never had an actual writing/composition class in college. In retrospect, this was a mistake; my writing skills would likely be much better had I allowed myself some professional instruction at a more advanced level. This being said, I do appreciate the compliment; I try my best to keep things interesting for everyone while still conveying information in my own, individual voice...except, of course, for literally every time I use the phrase "Dear Reader." That's nothing more than a pathetically-transparent love letter to Charlotte Brontë, because I am completely in love with every sentence that woman ever penned.



First of all: wise decision. From the pics you posted in your thread the other day, I can categorically state that you're already pushing that rig far more than most rooftop tent owners; in the third image you're around 35° on that side slope - possibly more - and that's approximately 34° more tilt than most rooftop-tent-equipped rigs actually see on the rare occasions that they actually get used...but that's a different topic entirely. The point is this: if I'm purposefully taking a rig into obstacle-ridden terrain for the purpose of pushing through sidehills, ledges, climbs, descents, sluices, and - in the immortal words of Loc Dog - "all kinds of ill s***" - I have zero desire to place the 80+ pounds of a rooftop tent on the vehicle; it's a pointless amount of weight being carried in the worst possible place. Thanks, but no thanks.

Now, if I was going to do long trips on mostly-flat ground and I had a very good reason to not sleep on said ground - like, if I was crossing Australia or sub-Saharan Africa, or another place that's filled with things that have Sneak Attack as a class feature - then I would absolutely grab a rooftop tent and happily snore the night away...but I'd also have a set of traction ladders, extra winch lines, some ground tackle, a few extra liters of fuel and water, and - again - all kinds of ill s*** that I don't need when I'm out playing around at the local park. You build for the task at hand, as I'm sure you know.

As far as the Cruiser being more tipsy than a D90 is concerned: aside from that statement being malicious propaganda* of the highest order, there's more than just lift and tire height involved, as I'm sure you know. In this case, I don't think it's even a question of dimensionality being somewhat opposed to mass distribution: I would start looking at how your suspension is being loaded. When I hear "unstable" or "high centered" or "F***, dude, this thing is about to go over" I start thinking about whether or not the shocks, springs and antisway bars are doing what they're supposed to be doing when the rig is leaning/tilting in any given direction. If we had control arms on these rigs I would be looking at those, as well...but even with basic leaves, dynamic stability comes first and foremost from the suspension; that being said, I would also start thinking about tire pressures and loading, and how masses shift when the vehicle tilts, and whether or not the vehicle just feels a bit more wobbly, as opposed to actually being less-stable. Perception is a powerful force; hell, you can shift sideways in a seat and think the rig is going to go over, when in reality there's no danger at all. Been there and done that more than a few times; only rolled one once from my weight shifting, though.

Oh, speaking of seats:

Picture: Why, hello there, you lovely things...

View attachment 3484157


I'm rarely happy with things because I always see room for improvement, or because I find where the corners were cut, or because someone just phoned it in and said "yeah, that'll work"...but I'm happy with these results. I'd like to give Mike Witecki at Deschutes Upholstery in Olympia, Washington some well-deserved credit for doing a fantastic job at realizing the goal that I set: a modified factory seat that would wear, function and look better than the factory cloth-covered options. I think he delivered in spades; he rebuilt the parts that needed attention, replaced and modified the lower bolsters to make them a bit more comfortable for me, installed full-size seat heaters and trimmed up everything to reduce and simplify the number of seams while keeping the factory Toyota look, and he did it all within the budget that he originally quoted. I'm my opinion, they look very good; good stitching, sensible layout, and the vinyl match is almost dead-on for the door material. Not only that, but I have a couple of yards of vinyl left over for additional projects. That's a win-win-win, in my book; the only problem is that they definitely don't match the parking brake boot.

Pictured: Because of course they don't.

View attachment 3484171


Serious Question: what the hell is it, with Toyota and their use of fifty different shades of grey in the same interior? That concept not only makes for a horrible hodgepodge of value and execution in books, but also in automotive colorways: it's just...busy. It's overly busy. Thankfully, I need to replace that shifter boot anyway, so Mike is just going to build one for me that matches, because two grey vinyls that are this different being right next to each other is how I loose sleep at nights. I also lose sleep at nights over loose, broken, missing bushings that make my seats rattle a bit through their non-presence.

Pictured: So, I fixed that.

View attachment 3484189


Terrible photo, but that's my Mk I solution; a bronze flanged sleeve bearing machined to fit the 12.5mm seat hinge pin, fitted through a 16mm hole in the seat frame (reamed from 14mm) and secured by an e-clip that's backed by UHMW in the form of a spacer washer. It's almost an interference fit, so the bronze should hold up very well; a single drop of light oil will be enough lubrication for a long, long time.

This being said...

I may reverse the installation of the bushing and the washer. My only concern about this arrangement is that I might prefer the UHMW as a silencer between the two metal planes of the seat frame; the material is effectively a wax, and it's even better as a wear surface than the bronze...but popping that bushing into place from the back of the frame is a bit of a fiddly pain and it was late when I was working on this, last night...and I had already sliced my hand open on a bridge reamer, which we will not discuss because it makes me sound like even more of a moron than I am. Instead, we'll just look at a picture of the sleek and net-free seat backs.

Pictured: Retiarii everywhere are weeping at the loss of entanglement.

View attachment 3484198


I know it looks plain, but I just don't use seat-back pockets...and with an in-vehicle sleeping arrangement still being considered, I don't want to deal with snaggy-flavored surfaces in immediate proximity to sleepy-flavored platforms; that's almost as bad of an idea as a rooftop tent on a crawler. Also, I'm not sure that the seat heater power cables are going to remain in those exact places; I need to start working on the rest of the harness so that I can site some relays and figure out exactly where the connectors need to be located, and the power routed. My 24-volt source will be only a few inches away, under the console...but the switches are located in the lower part of the central dash, and because that's a significant distance away...-
...
...
...you know, I could find a different place for those switches. Hmmm....

Okay, that's a thought for Future Me, yet again; also, wow...Past Me is really kind of a dick about things. Meanwhile, Present Me has a bit of restoration work to do on the driver's-side seat bushing area, and a hole to ream, and some replacement e-clips to find; I ordered some from McMaster-Carr, and although they fit they're of a much smaller outer diameter than the stock e-clips...of which I only have one. Four total pins...only one e-clip; go figure. So it's gonna be a quick run over to Tacoma Screw to see if they have something that'll fit, and if not, I'll definitely be flipping the bronze/UHMW arrangement; the replacement e-clips will easily hold the flat surface of the sleeve bushing in place, but they don't have a lot of engagement on the UHMW, because diameters. I'll grab a picture later to make that otherwise-cryptic statement more clear. For now, here's the current state of things:

Pictured: Had them rebuilt 24 hours ago, and I already have them on the bench, being taken apart. Le sigh...I make bad choices.

View attachment 3484213


Also, I really need to organize the garage. Like, really. But that's Future Me's problem as well...because, yeah. That.

Stay tuned.

*- Propaganda: what happens when a Brit takes a really good look at something.
Those seats really do look amazing. Very nice work! Did you go with vinyl again or did you choose this opportunity to go with leather?

At the risk of having mud flung at me, how did you finish the bottom of the headrests? Looks a little bit unfinished? What do they look like with the headrests raised? I am not trying to nitpick in any way just curious. I would love to install a set of recarro's or scheelmann's, but at the cost of them, it will have to wait until my kids are all grown up and I manage to save enough up before retirement! lol

So I am now looking at making these ones last longer, or something I used to do with my 40 series is go to the wreckers and grab seats out of a supra or celica GT and install those with some added steel to make the mounts work.

Very impressive work, keep up the great posts!! :cheers:
 

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