Otramm crank pulley holding tool. (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

I was going to make my own until I learned that Otramm (Ryan) has a version already for sale.

I went to his site...but the item was temporarily 'out of stock' so I contacted him to see if he might have one laying around his shop that he could sell me. I need to work on my 80 series in a short amount of time.

We are blessed here on MUD to have many great supporting vendors, so while this isn't altogether 'tech' I wanted to give a shout-out to all of them and particularly to @OTRAMM for taking the time out of his busy day to find me the tool and ship it off.

Good job Sir, I greatly appreciate your effort and also to all the other vendors here that make keeping our Land Cruisers in good repair an easier endeavor.


Flint.

 

[Heckraiser]

I'm going to try to make my own this week. Past experience has taught me that having the right tool for the job is worth the money (wits' end bushing press tool being a prime example), but I'm so damn cheap I struggle with any one-time-use tool. I hope to hell I won't have to remove the crank pulley more than once

But I did think long and hard about buying the OTRAMM one. I should probably just mail him $20 as payment for all the youtube videos

 

[fjbj40]

I made my own, only cost me time as I had the materials on hand.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I’ve just put a deep socket on flex plate bolts lol

my engine was in the truck tho

 

[nukegoat]

That's excellent. @richardlillard1 may have another solution

 

[flintknapper]

Got my holding tool. This version will accommodate both 1/2" & 3/4" drives.

I test fit several of my ratchets, breaker bars and adapters on it. Some were pretty tight...so I took a mill file and removed the powder coating from each square hole and put a light polish on them. Now everything slips right in there, fits tight but is easy to remove.

These are very nicely done.

Thanks again to Ryan (@OTRAMM) for getting this out to me on short notice.

Flint.

 

[landtank]

Got my holding tool. This version will accommodate both 1/2" & 3/4" drives.

I test fit several of my ratchets, breaker bars and adapters on it. Some were pretty tight...so I took a mill file and removed the powder coating from each square hole and put a light polish on them. Now everything slips right in there, fits tight but is easy to remove.

These are very nicely done.

Thanks again to Ryan for getting this out to me on short notice.

Flint.

View attachment 2289756View attachment 2289758

I think there is some missed opportunity with this design. I just did a timing belt on my wife's GX470. Had to make a tool for torquing the crank bolt. The offset for the bolts was 2.5". Otramm should include as many bolt offsets as possible for various engines.

 

[iptman]

I guess I'll tag Ryan in case he didn't see this. @OTRAMM

 

[RWD]

Just make sure that you have a good quality breaker bar. Today I changed out the crank seal on my 97 LX and used the 30mm/breaker bar tied to the frame to remove the crank bolt. I broke 2 el cheapo 1/2" breaker bars before I got out my 30+ year old Snap-on breaker. It worked ok but next time I think I'm going to fab a crank holding tool.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just make sure that you have a good quality breaker bar. Today I changed out the crank seal on my 97 LX and used the 30mm/breaker bar tied to the frame to remove the crank bolt. I broke 2 el cheapo 1/2" breaker bars before I got out my 30+ year old Snap-on breaker. It worked ok but next time I think I'm going to fab a crank holding tool.

View attachment 2290256

When I did mine, I sheared off a Craftsman 1/2 breaker bar like it was butter. Had to invest in a 3/4" drive.

 

[blkprj80]

In the pic, you're looking at the part that faces the pulley. The pulley has a step, and this needs to sit inside so you get face contact. I wouldn't want to tighten it down against the harmonic balancer (belt pulley part).
The other two holes were used when I did the rear pinion seal replacement.
I was not drunk when I cut this out. Okay maybe I was, but that isn't why it looks like I was. I did it with a bandsaw.
The bar is 1" x 3/8" flat. It's long enough to fit under the frame rail.

 

[flintknapper]

Just make sure that you have a good quality breaker bar. Today I changed out the crank seal on my 97 LX and used the 30mm/breaker bar tied to the frame to remove the crank bolt. I broke 2 el cheapo 1/2" breaker bars before I got out my 30+ year old Snap-on breaker. It worked ok but next time I think I'm going to fab a crank holding tool.

View attachment 2290256

I have a 3/4" MAC breaker bar that should hold it just fine. I'll probably be taking the bolt off with an impact anyway. Then surely I won't have any issues torquing it back to 304 ft. lbs. I have a 3/4" torque wrench that can handle that easily.

 

[RWD]

Yes, time for me to get a 3/4" breaker. I didn't try an impact because I didn't take out the radiator.

 

[OTRAMM]

I think there is some missed opportunity with this design. I just did a timing belt on my wife's GX470. Had to make a tool for torquing the crank bolt. The offset for the bolts was 2.5". Otramm should include as many bolt offsets as possible for various engines.

I hadn't really thought about adding extra patterns. We've got the commercially available 4.7 and 3.0 crank tools so I always just grab those. I'll see what I can do the next time I have to order blanks.

 

[TriaxialBulls]

I bought one a couple months back (on the site it said it was actually the last one) and am going to be finally doing the job in the upcoming weeks. If anyone needs one, I will sell it to you for the same price OTRAMM sold it to me ($80 + shipping), as I don't expect to be needing one for a long time after that. If anyone is interested, please DM me and we can work out the details.

 

[flintknapper]

I hadn't really thought about adding extra patterns. We've got the commercially available 4.7 and 3.0 crank tools so I always just grab those. I'll see what I can do the next time I have to order blanks.

Like you...I already had a holding tool for the 4.7

 

[fjbj40]

Here is mine, made out of stuff in the shop. As blfprj80 stated there is a lip on the pulley, you need to be inside that or you risk damaging the elastomer.

 

[RWD]

Nice work fjbj40!

 

[blkprj80]

Here is mine, made out of stuff in the shop. As blfprj80 stated there is a lip on the pulley, you need to be inside that or you risk damaging the elastomer.

Overkill @ +11. I love it!

 

[Vlex]

Does anybody have the dimensions of the hole offset/hole sizes? That way i could fab something up before i'm starting the work on the crank seal.