Ordered my Steering Rack today...what else do I need.....? (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

It is not "local" if you have to pay for shipping.

^^^^
In a monetary sense of course. Obviously...they have to order parts on occasion. But physically, they are 'local' and provide a service locally. That said....IF I had done my homework better...I might have noticed that the two parts appear to be the same thing (Cardone HD) and NAPA probably just rebadges and marks it up. Not the end of the world but good info to know.

But...the 'HD' (Heavy Duty with Thermo-Plastic boots) have to be 'ordered', they don't stock them.

 

[2001LC]

Well....I'm doing some things that aren't really associated with replacing the Steering Rack itself and I'm sure some parts are still serviceable. But since I'm in that area any...I am going to 'freshen up' much of the suspension and drive-train.

My CV driveshafts came in today and against conventional wisdom (go with OEM) I am going to be the Guinea Pig for a pair of NAPA's premium offering. I will inspect the OEM's that I take off to determine if they are worthy of rebuilding and IF so, have them serviced and keep them for the future use. In the meantime...I wanted to give these aftermarket units a fair shake.

Since the LX is my Wife's DD and rarely sees any 'off-roading' I am expecting (hoping) these will hold up for awhile. She drives 40 miles a day (round trip) and isn't particularly rough on vehicles. The CV's appear to be of decent quality and manufacture. I did notice when trial fitting the new Flanges to the splines that they are quite a tight fit. In fact...I lubed them with some white Moly grease and still had to 'tap' them into place with a brass hammer (and back off again).

You aren't going to slide these on by hand (initially). I imagine they would better fit flanges that are worn some and no doubt will loosen up with use. But, better 'tight' to begin with than loose.


View attachment 2210787
View attachment 2210791
View attachment 2210793
View attachment 2210794

Did the new OEM hub flange have any detectable play on NAPA FDS (CV) axles splines. Either rotational or laterally?

 

[OwnerCS]

In another car club, we purchased product and traced Cardone, Surtrack/Trackmotive, and Import Direct to the same manufacturer named Wohn industries. No NAPA parts were available for the study. Wohn appears to produce different grades of CV axles depending on the purchaser.

Wonh Industries Co. Ltd.

The core businesses of Wonh Industries Co, Ltd. include the development, production and sale of Automotive CV Drive Shafts, CV Joints, ATV/UTV CV Drive Shafts, Prop Shafts and Window Regulators.

www.wonhparts.com

 

[flintknapper]

Did the new OEM hub flange have any detectable play on NAPA FDS (CV) axles splines. Either rotational or laterally?

Absolutely none. In fact...if anything its too tight. I suppose they are designed to fit snugly in 'worn' flanges, because in new flanges I am going to have to 'tap' them home slightly upon installation. As they sit ( even having tapped the flanges on and off twice) I would not be able to fully seat them by hand.

 

[flintknapper]

Did the new OEM hub flange have any detectable play on NAPA FDS (CV) axles splines. Either rotational or laterally?

^^^^

The one's on the vehicle now....I have not removed so I don't know how they fit the CV's yet, but NEW flanges and these CV's are very tight.

 

[2001LC]

Absolutely none. In fact...if anything its too tight. I suppose they are designed to fit snugly in 'worn' flanges, because in new flanges I am going to have to 'tap' them home slightly upon installation. As they sit ( even having tapped the flanges on and off twice) I would not be able to fully seat them by hand.

Not sure I like that.

Brass bushing wears faster when we have no gap ( zero hub flange to snap ring gap). But brass bushings wears very quickly increase gap. The wear is reduced, as constant pressure is not on point axle and bushing contact. If hub flange holds axle tight, keeping constant pressure on bushing. It will wear and gap increases. But axle "may" keep getting press into to hub flange each bump in the road, as suspension flexes. Hub flange may then hold axle, keeping constant pressure on bushing. This may keep repeating until hub flange loosen up. It may not only wear the brass bushing more and faster. But extra heat from constant pressure "may" be hard on needle bearings also. This is all supposition. Could be each bump in the road pulls axle from hub flange.

But I did see this once on a CVJ rebuilt FDS. I installed a new hub flange and had to tap it on. I felt oh well better tight than loose, and it will loosen in time. I had a subsequent occasion to pull that hub flange, a few thousand miles later. It was stuck on and took a lot to get it off. It had zero gap best I could tell as my 0.03mm would not fit in the gap. When I assemble first time 2K earlier it did have a gap of .08mm. I ended-up putting old worn hub flange back on.

I don't see as a big concern. But it's that rabbit hole we go down when non OEM parts used.

 

[flintknapper]

Not sure I like that.

Brass bushing wears faster when we have no gap ( zero hub flange to snap ring gap). But brass bushings wears very quickly increase gap. The wear is reduced, as constant pressure is not on point axle and bushing contact. If hub flange holds axle tight, keeping constant pressure on bushing. It will wear and gap increases. But axle "may" keep getting press into to hub flange each bump in the road, as suspension flexes. Hub flange may then hold axle, keeping constant pressure on bushing. This may keep repeating until hub flange loosen up. It may not only wear the brass bushing more and faster. But extra heat from constant pressure "may" be hard on needle bearings also. This is all supposition. Could be each bump in the road pulls axle from hub flange.

But I did see this once on a CVJ rebuilt FDS. I installed a new hub flange and had to tap it on. I felt oh well better tight than loose, and it will loosen in time. I had a subsequent occasion to pull that hub flange, a few thousand miles later. It was stuck on and took a lot to get it off. It had zero gap best I could tell as my 0.03mm would not fit in the gap. When I assemble first time 2K earlier it did have a gap of .08mm. I ended-up putting old worn hub flange back on.

I don't see as a big concern. But it's that rabbit hole we go down when non OEM parts used.

I'll have to look at it more closely and see 'why' it is such a tight fit. IF the O.D. of the splines is slightly larger than the flange receiving it...then a very light sanding with crocus cloth about the circumference might free it up. But IF the binding is due to a disparity in the spacing of the splines (Axle vs. Flange) there isn't anything I can do about that except wait (and hope) for them to 'pattern' themselves. It might well be that the axles fit my existing flanges better anyway. Won't know until I tear into it all.

 

[2001LC]

Make sure to see if fit is just as tight or not, with hub flange pushed on until face is lined up at back of snap ring groove on axle and no further.

 

[flintknapper]

Make sure to see if fit is just as tight or not, with hub flange pushed on until face is lined up at back of snap ring groove on axle and no further.

Will do. Going to check the fit (off vehicle) today.

 

[Skidoo]

Don't know if is mentioned in the write up linked to earlier, but clean the PS fluid tank.

 

[flintknapper]

Will do. Going to check the fit (off vehicle) today.

OK, dry fitted both Hub Flanges to both CV Axles today. They still remain fairly tight. Got a little better after hitting them with some Crocus Cloth and running the Flanges on and off the splines a few times...but definitely not going to go on by hand.

I marked the splines with Prussian Blue and tapped the flanges onto the Shafts. Found a couple of places where a spline was just a bit high, but I believe there is just enough difference in the Flange and Axle Spline profiles to cause them to be tight. It's not like I have to 'hammer' on them...but I DO have to 'tap' on them with a brass punch.

The Flanges on my vehicle now...might slip right on them, don't know yet. But the new flanges definitely will not.

Also, I noticed these ARE the 'Cardone HD' units (and are marked as such) so DON'T buy them from NAPA. NAPA is just marking them up $40.00 each and selling them as their own.

Anyway.... I will get around to installing them pretty soon and we will simply see if they last.

 

[flintknapper]

Went ahead and painted the 555 TRE's since they come unpainted. Just mask them off and hit them with a couple of coats. 10 minute job at most. I used epoxy paint for these parts owing to their location.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

What symptoms are you guys getting from your racks before deciding to replace? @Jrod definitely curious what happened with yours today.

Mine was leaking.

 

[OwnerCS]

Received recommended parts +OEM outer tie rod ends. Just ordered low pressure lines.

I may try using an engine support bar to hold up the engine 2" when changing the rack. I'm looking for places to use something I bought a few years ago for a clutch and engine job. Has anybody tried using one of these on the rack job?

 

[flintknapper]

Went ahead and packed my wheel bearings while I am waiting on my upper Control Arm bushings to arrive (if they ever do). All tracking ended 4 days ago at the North Houston 'hub' (worst in the nation).

I hate packing bearings...so might as well get that mess out of the way while I am waiting.

All done and boxed back up:

 

[abuck99]

Looking good! Appreciate the detailed thread. I suspect those cardone axles will be fine for the type of driving you do. Since you purchased at Napa, do they come with a lifetime replacement warranty? That might be worth the extra $$.

I also H8 packing wheel bearings- messy work.

 

[flintknapper]

Looking good! Appreciate the detailed thread. I suspect those cardone axles will be fine for the type of driving you do. Since you purchased at Napa, do they come with a lifetime replacement warranty? That might be worth the extra $$.

I also H8 packing wheel bearings- messy work.

^^^^

They do, but I don't know if that is a function of having purchased them at NAPA. It is a 'Limited Lifetime' warranty (non-transferable). Provided by Cardone.

 

[abuck99]

^^^^

They do, but I don't know if that is a function of having purchased them at NAPA. It is a 'Limited Lifetime' warranty (non-transferable). Provided by Cardone.

Suppose its easier to walk it into Napa and exchange it vs boxing it up and paying to ship it back.

 

[Skidoo]

Someone on MUD showed a photo of an aftermarket CV with 3 balls per joint vs the standard 5, anyone know what the Cardone's have?

 

[flintknapper]

Someone on MUD showed a photo of an aftermarket CV with 3 balls per joint vs the standard 5, anyone know what the Cardone's have?

Have no idea and nothing about that is in the description of the part. I know the suckers are heavy. When you pick them up, the weight is more than you would imagine....just looking at them.