Ordered my Steering Rack today...what else do I need.....? (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

I did not have to jack up the engine on the driver's side in order to remove my steering rack....although I expect it would have given me additional room. I had removed my Oil Cooler to service it... so it wasn't in the way and blocking the steering rack.

But after having removed the oil cooler I noticed two of my hoses were quite soft feeling. It seems that oil from a leak had gotten on them and over the years it degraded the rubber. So new hoses are being installed. Worth checking if you are in that area for any reason.

 

[flintknapper]

You may recall. I used that Nylog; THX! That AC o-ring assembly lube. Held my second figure 8 O-ring in place, during assemble.
View attachment 2453875View attachment 2453874

@2001LC
Paul, the Nylog trick was a great tip...thanks. Got my steering rack installed today and also the Oil Cooler. I can see how folks might dislodge and pinch the figure 8 O-ring when putting the oil cooler in place...but the Nylog held it securely.

Also, learned that you want to have the mounting bolts in place when you feed the Oil Cooler into position, otherwise it's nearly impossible to get them past the steering rack. Once you have the Oil Cooler on the mounting 'stud'....tighten the nut just enough to hold the unit in place but still allow it to pivot. This will help keep the O-ring in place while still allowing you to 'swing' the oil cooler enough to find the threaded holes in the block for the mounting bolts.

I know a lot of folks have said the Oil Cooler in a PITA to do, but I didn't find it that difficult. I spent more time getting my 17mm Crows Foot off the nut on the rear line of the steering rack than installing the Oil Cooler.

 

[2001LC]

17mm Crows Foot off the nut):! Must have been a HF tool. They've tolerance issue! I use a craftsman flare nut crows foot. Both to remove and to torque on. Not greatest tolerance, but passable.

 

[flintknapper]

17mm Crows Foot off the nut):! Must have been a HF tool. They've tolerance issue! I use a craftsman flare nut crows foot. Both to remove and to torque on. Not greatest tolerance, but passable.

No Sir, I stay away from HF as much as is humanly possible. This was a SnapOn Flare Crows Foot. I just put a little too much torque on the nut and it is soft....so the crows foot bit into the edges.

 

[2001LC]

Wow Snap-on.

 

[flintknapper]

Wow Snap-on.

Just pointing out is was not the tool.....it was the Monkey on the other end of the tool (me) applying a bit too much force. The end result was that I very slightly rounded the nut and in the process got my crows foot stuck on it. Since it is in a spot of very tight quarters....it took awhile to dislodge it.

 

[flintknapper]

So....got my PS reservoir filled and fluid down to the Steering Rack. Ran the steering wheel lock to lock manually (engine off a few times). Topped off the reservoir and cranked the engine. It was noisy for awhile and as I expected...I had some foam and air bubbles for a bit, but it gradually subsided.

Filled radiator to top and burped the system:

Checked for leaks at the Oil Cooler, all was well.

 

[flintknapper]

Well....finally got everything reinstalled. Last few things before taking it in to get an alignment tomorrow were to check tire pressure, adjust torsion bars. Got the front side to side pretty close. Back to front 'rake' is 3/4" (I raised the front a bit).

We don't have any really GOOD shops in the area for the Front End Alignment....but a mechanic I know and trust suggested a place, though he doubted they would be familiar with the LX470.

Any special instructions or things I should ask for or about?

I've printed off the specs and instructions from the FSM and will also leave them my FSM in case they have any issues, but I don't know what else they might need to know?

After it was all said and done:

• Replaced Steering Rack with OEM
• Replaced Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings (including lower #2 in frame)
• Replaced Front Diff Bushings and Pucks
• Replaced Anti-Sway Bar Bushings
• Replaced Upper and Lower LCA Ball Joints with (555)
• Replaced Tie Rod ends both sides (555)
• Replaced CV Axles both sides
• Replaced Drive Flanges both sides
• Replaced Wheel Bearings and Races (Koyo)
• Replaced Brake Rotors both sides (Brembo)
• Rebuilt Brake Calipers both sides
• Replaced Brake Pads (OEM)
• Replaced Diff Seals both sides
• Replaced all hoses to Oil Cooler
• Disassembled, cleaned and resealed Oil Cooler
• Changed out front diff gear lube
• New engine oil and oil filter
• Drained and refilled radiator/cooling system
• All new gaskets and seals everywhere

Going to wait a few weeks and let my hands heal up, then do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idlers, fan bracket, crank seal, cam seals, valve cover gaskets.

 

[2001LC]

Asked them to set caster at 2.8 to 3 degrees. I just did same job as you, with rack rebuild in an 03LX. Dealership set caster, or rather left at ~2.45. After 200 miles test drive. I took back and ask for caster to be set at 3 degree. Steering felt firmer, with zero wondering.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Maybe this is a stupid question, but what is this plastic looking ring? I see it on the "kits" on eBay, but when I crawl under my LX I didn't see anything like that? Also don't see anything like that on the parts diagram.

 

[flintknapper]

Maybe this is a stupid question, but what is this plastic looking ring? I see it on the "kits" on eBay, but when I crawl under my LX I didn't see anything like that? Also don't see anything like that on the parts diagram.

 

[shtbrwn86]

View attachment 2616691

Interesting. All the pictures I have seen of this bushing were people pressing or installing. Thanks. Do you know what that part does? Just curious.

 

[flintknapper]

Interesting. All the pictures I have seen of this bushing were people pressing or installing. Thanks. Do you know what that part does? Just curious.

No earthly idea for that or the spacer under the lip of the bushing. Both look like 'after thoughts' to me.....but I don't always understand Toyota engineering.

 

[OwnerCS]

After I replaced the bushings, I torqued up at normal ride height. Then after I lifted the front 2" and changed normal ride height, I got the bushings released retorqued during an alignment. I'm picky as it gets about suspension components being able to move without being in a bind.

 

[OwnerCS]

No earthly idea for that or the spacer under the lip of the bushing. Both look like 'after thoughts' to me.....but I don't always understand Toyota engineering.

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View attachment 2617085

I think it is some kind of a dust, dirt, mud, or salt cover. The back side is exposed. I can see how something unwanted could collect in the area that may cause the rubber to age faster. Or if the bushing starts to move forward, it would keep the metal face of the bushing from rubbing the LCA and causing a squeak.