I had very little steering slop while driving. The rack had a very slow leak for around 2 years. This afternoon, I turned the wheel almost to lock position (turning left), there was a loud pop, and the steering wheel jerked completely out of my hands. From that point on, I had manual steering. Hoses are intact, and the PS pump pulley was still turning. Fluid was puking out of the passenger side boot.
Ordered my Steering Rack today...what else do I need.....? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter flintknapper
- Start date
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I had very little steering slop while driving. The rack had a very slow leak for around 2 years. This afternoon, I turned the wheel almost to lock position (turning left), there was a loud pop, and the steering wheel jerked completely out of my hands. From that point on, I had manual steering. Hoses are intact, and the PS pump pulley was still turning. Fluid was puking out of the passenger side boot.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yowza....don't want that to happen. Mine should be here any day now.
How difficult is it to replace the power steering rack?
- Thread starter
- #24
Eh... I pulled the oil filter, but left the housing alone. If you unbolt the driver's side motor mount and lift the motor up enough to wedge a 2x4 under the motor mount, you'll have enough clearance to get the rack out and the new one in.
While you're in their (I replace my rack at 130k because my inner tie rod ends had some minor play) I then decided to refresh the entire front end, and replace all consumables.
Radiator
Condenser
All coolant hoses
CV axles
Hubs, rotors and calipers (new bearings and races)
Ball joints (upper and lower)
Brake lines
Sway bar bushings
Tie rod ends
Hub spline assemblies
I also did rear calipers and rotors
Control arms
Slee SS brake lines all around
All OEM parts from Lexus/Toyota.
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters was immensely helpful in sourcing parts. Would highly recommend.
Radiator
Condenser
All coolant hoses
CV axles
Hubs, rotors and calipers (new bearings and races)
Ball joints (upper and lower)
Brake lines
Sway bar bushings
Tie rod ends
Hub spline assemblies
I also did rear calipers and rotors
Control arms
Slee SS brake lines all around
All OEM parts from Lexus/Toyota.
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters was immensely helpful in sourcing parts. Would highly recommend.
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Also, I enjoy all things mechanical.
First time power steering rack removal is not particularly fun.
The second is though.
First time power steering rack removal is not particularly fun.
The second is though.
What was the cost for that project?
Over $5000 not including my labor.
I did a lot of small odds and ends which add up. Any consumables disturbed were replaced
I did a lot of small odds and ends which add up. Any consumables disturbed were replaced
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just saying the hose probably due for a replacement anyways
@flintknapper ..... just remember to top off the coolant 
- Thread starter
- #32
Gotcha....will definitely look at that....thanks for the reminder. I'm making a list.
- Thread starter
- #33
@flintknapper ..... just remember to top off the coolant
It's pretty much a time for a coolant flush anyway...so I'll just do that last thing...along with an oil change.
- Thread starter
- #34
Well the Big Brown Truck showed up today. Now just need to look under the front end and see what else needs to be attended to. Give Kurt a call and place an order. Maybe tackle this next weekend.
- Thread starter
- #35
So...thought I'd better hose off the front end and get up under there to see what all needs attention.
Besides the Steering rack...looks like its time for front brake pads and rotors. New wheel bearings (or repack). Ball Joints look good...but I will probably replace. Outer TRE's felt tight...but they aren't expensive...so replace those. Going to do CV's and diff seals while in there. Can't really tell much about the upper and lower control arm bushings. Don't know how hard they are to replace. Guess I'll have to read up on those. Diff bushing is probably worn .
Besides the Steering rack...looks like its time for front brake pads and rotors. New wheel bearings (or repack). Ball Joints look good...but I will probably replace. Outer TRE's felt tight...but they aren't expensive...so replace those. Going to do CV's and diff seals while in there. Can't really tell much about the upper and lower control arm bushings. Don't know how hard they are to replace. Guess I'll have to read up on those. Diff bushing is probably worn .
I put these on my vehicle, and they promptly RUSTED, much like the ball joints. So plan on painting them.
just replaced mine on Monday. Oil filter assembly removal is not necessary, remove filter only, then unbolt drives side motor mount from chassis and lift engine up about an inch.
others that have removed the oil cooler assembly have had headaches getting it properly sealed to the block. Engine mount is the way to go.
- Thread starter
- #38
I will paint them, but rust isn't an issue where I live. We pretty much have to import it....if you want any.
I will paint them, but rust isn't an issue where I live. We pretty much have to import it....if you want any.
Cool. I live in SoCal. I got a little desert mud (a bit corrosive) and washed it off, then it started rusting. Then I drove to UT and they were spraying the roads for ice and it went full rust-tard. Then I had to paint at that point. Point is, the finish on the parts is pretty poor
- Thread starter
- #40
Understand....just messin' with ya.
