Ordered my Steering Rack today...what else do I need.....? (1 Viewer)

[Jrod]

^^^^^

That doesn't sound good. Hopefully I'll have better access since I'll be pulling Hubs, rotors, CV's, upper and lower control arms and steering knuckle.

Probably leave the diff in place but I want to change the bushing in it as well.

I'm 6'-5" and 260 lbs.....so crawling around under the vehicle already isn't fun. Let alone when parts are hard to get to.

You’all be fine. I’m 6’2 with long arms and big hands. Wear gloves.

 

[94SRUNNER]

@flintknapper make any progress? Maybe I missed it in the later part of the thread, but which CV unit did you end up installing in the 100?

 

[flintknapper]

@flintknapper make any progress? Maybe I missed it in the later part of the thread, but which CV unit did you end up installing in the 100?

No...you didn't miss anything. Had to put that project 'on hold' while I replace the head-gasket on my 80 series, but to answer your question I have the NAPA HD CV's (Cardon with the heavy boots) to install. Also doing a lot of other front end work.

 

[94SRUNNER]

No...you didn't miss anything. Had to put that project 'on hold' while I replace the head-gasket on my 80 series, but to answer your question I have the NAPA HD CV's (Cardon with the heavy boots) to install. Also doing a lot of other front end work.

Oh man! Sorry to hear about the HG on the 80...PM or did it blow?

 

[flintknapper]

Oh man! Sorry to hear about the HG on the 80...PM or did it blow?

It went out under odd circumstances, but after 23 yrs and 316K miles...I had beat the odds anyway. So it was needed.

Maintenance...Water Pump, T-Stat, Oil Cooler, Flush Engine/Radiator, now head-gasket blown :(

Thought I'd do a little maintenance on the Cruiser while everything is shut down....like so many others are doing. I haven't checked or changed out my T-Stat in 5-6 years...so thought I'd do that. Found some deteriorating rubber on one of the seals. Also, was curious what the impeller might...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[flintknapper]

@flintknapper make any progress? Maybe I missed it in the later part of the thread, but which CV unit did you end up installing in the 100?

OK, just getting back on this project. Need to finish pressing out the No. 2 LCA bushings from the frame, put in the new ones. Run the new Oil Cooler Hoses and then I'll be ready to start putting things back together. Got all the major parts reconditioned or have new parts. Taking pics along the way that might help others if they have questions.

I will post them here as I make progress. Learned a few things while doing this.

 

[hickuptruck]

OK, just getting back on this project. Need to finish pressing out the No. 2 LCA bushings from the frame, put in the new ones. Run the new Oil Cooler Hoses and then I'll be ready to start putting things back together. Got all the major parts reconditioned or have new parts. Taking pics along the way that might help others if they have questions.

I will post them here as I make progress. Learned a few things along the way.

View attachment 2453785

Can say from experience that picture above is a lot of $$$ even though those CVs aren't OEM.

 

[2001LC]

OK, just getting back on this project. Need to finish pressing out the No. 2 LCA bushings from the frame, put in the new ones. Run the new Oil Cooler Hoses and then I'll be ready to start putting things back together. Got all the major parts reconditioned or have new parts. Taking pics along the way that might help others if they have questions.

I will post them here as I make progress. Learned a few things along the way.

View attachment 2453785

Wow, you've been busy. So Sweet!

Assembly is the sweet spot, right. Can't distinguish, new from recondition?

How'd the LCA bushings look?

You've painted the oil cooler housing..HUH. I had leak once at the figure 8 gasket on oil housing bracket. My fault.

You may recall. I used that Nylog; THX! That AC o-ring assembly lube. Held my second figure 8 O-ring in place, during assemble.

 

[flintknapper]

Wow, you've been busy. So Sweet!

Assembly is the sweet spot, right. Can't distinguish, new from recondition?

How'd the LCA bushings look?

You've painted the oil cooler housing..HUH. I had leak once at the figure 8 gasket on oil housing bracket. My fault.

You may recall. I used that Nylog; THX! That AC o-ring assembly lube. Held my second figure 8 O-ring in place, during assemble.
View attachment 2453875View attachment 2453874

I saw that little trick and intend to do the same (use Nylog to hold it in place). I have all new hoses to install as well.

I will be finishing up removing and installing the new LCA (no. 2) bushings in the frame today so I'll be able to move forward putting it back together in the coming days. My bushings with the exception of the front diff bushings were all serviceable still...as were my tie rod ends and ball joints.

These were all things that I expected to find in relatively good condition, but wanted to replace anyway. Figured I'd be fairly deep into the front end with the steering rack replacement and wheel bearing service. Might as well just freshen up the front end and be done with it.

Front diff bushing was not difficult at all (for me), but I have all the tools to make it easy. I used an 1-5/8" holesaw on a 1/2" drill to quickly remove the 'core' then an air hammer with a single bevel chisel bit to hammer in the lip. Once the lip is distorted the outer shell (metal) is easily removed. The bushing in the rear was still rock solid so I just replaced the puck on that one.

 

[flintknapper]

The bushings in the control arms are more of a challenge...but again, coring out the center and then cutting a single 'kerf' in the outer metal shell will allow you to punch the shell inward relieving the pressure. Then it just taps out.

For the upper control arm...you'll want to remove the metal cap (outboard side of control arm) so you can drill out the core, there isn't room for a drill (unless a 90 degree) to go to the inside of the arm.

 

[flintknapper]

While not necessary, I like to clean up any parts I remove, inspect them carefully and in most cases put a coat of protective paint on them. At the very least....give them a thorough cleaning.

Example:

 

[flintknapper]

One little tip for removing ball joints (which can be stubborn).

It just makes me cringe to see folks wailing on steering components with a giant hammer. There isn't any need for this barbaric method unless its an emergency and you don't have the proper tools at hand. Or unless you're the Author of the book 'The complete cheapskate' and just won't purchase them.

Instead of beating the hell of the steering components or over-stressing a removal tool learn to use finesse. Use a ball joint removal tool (of GOOD quality) to apply pressure to the joint. Then instead of beating the fool out the steering knuckle, run a pickle fork over the top of the removal tool and give it a couple of whacks. This applies a shocking force in the correct direction.

NOTE: The above applies to applications where you are not trying to save/reuse the old ball joint.

 

[2001LC]

I find hub flange studs, get water and solvent into thread. A stud tool, to remove & install for cleaning and sealing threads (blue loctite), would be nice. But double nutting works as a stud tool, just not as fast.

 

[flintknapper]

I find hub flange studs, get water and solvent into thread. A stud tool, to remove & install for cleaning and sealing threads (blue loctite), would be nice. But double nutting works as a stud tool, just not as fast.

Good time to inspect wheel studs too. Apparently the last time I had the tires rotated the tire monkey 'I mean tech' just couldn't be bothered with 'hand starting' the lug nuts and ran one of them 'cross threaded' down with the impact. Had to replace that one.

 

[2001LC]

I hate that. I go into shop and make sure tech start by hand.

To keep hub flange studs shank from rusting again. After sealant & torquing them in hub flange and too aid in next service. I use grease on hub flange studs shank, the hub flange gasket and cone washers. I then clean threads with degreaser, install washers, then blue loctite and torque on stud nut.

 

[flintknapper]

I was kind of dreading the No. 2 LCA bushings (the one's in the frame) after having read that some folks really struggled with them. Maybe I was just lucky....but they turned out to be the easiest of the lot to do. The bushings in the control arms themselves were MUCH harder to remove and install.

I opted to use the 'allthread' method.....pioneered by someone smarter than me. It worked pretty well. I did use 5/8" allthread instead of the 1/2" that most use. IF you choose to go this route then you'll have to put together your own conglomeration of pieces you already have or can find to purchase. I never found a 'socket' the correct O.D. to use as a bushing press, so I made my own part. But in the end you simply need something to act as a 'press' on one and then a 'cup' to accept the bushing on the other end. This is what I ended up with:

The No. 2 bushing as it sits in the frame:

The front of the bushing (toward front of vehicle) has a lip on it:

The rear of the bushing has the longer protrusion. Whatever you use for a bushing 'press' must fit over the protrusion for both depth and diameter as well as having an O.D. that will fit the bushing bore in the frame but still contact the edges of the metal shell of the bushing. Some folks have found impact sockets that fit, I did not.

Continued next post:

 

[flintknapper]

Once you have all your parts together its time to start pressing the bushing out:

It seems that getting the bushing to start moving is the most difficult step. My vehicle is a Texas Truck all of it's life and pretty much rust free...but there will likely be corrosion between the bushing shell and the bushing bore, so getting that to break free is your first chore. I found that putting a good amount of pressure on the bushing and then heating the bushing bore (frame) made a HUGE difference.

Once you have the bushing pressed out about 2/3rds the way....you can remove your press and just tap it out.

Don't be in a hurry to throw away the old bushing. There is a washer/spacer on the end with the lip that you need to save and transfer over to the new bushing. If you don't look closely (or know that it is there) you might throw it away. I'm not sure how critical the part is...but it was there for some reason:

Continued nest post:

 

[flintknapper]

After you have your bushings out, take the time to clean up the bushing bore. This will make installing the new bushing much easier. Doesn't matter what you have or use....just get it clean and smooth. I happened to have a cupped wire brush that fit the bore and I was able to run it on a angled die grinder, but use whatever you have:

Continues next post:

 

[flintknapper]

This bushing is slightly 'tapered' so starting it presents no problem. In fact, you can hand fit it nearly half its length:

The new bushing installs so much easier than the old one came out....so don't fret about that:

Done deal:

 

[OwnerCS]

Nailed it! Congratulations! Great tip about 5/8 thread over 1/2. The local HW store 1/2 in that I used was too lightweight for the job. I actually destroyed 2 or 3 rods in the process. This ought to be in the sticky file.

I was kind of dreading the No. 2 LCA bushings (the one's in the frame) after having read that some folks really struggled with them. Maybe I was just lucky....but they turned out to be the easiest of the lot to do. The bushings in the control arms themselves were MUCH harder to remove and install.

I opted to use the 'allthread' method.....pioneered by someone smarter than me. It worked pretty well. I did use 5/8" allthread instead of the 1/2" that most use. IF you choose to go this route then you'll have to put together your own conglomeration of pieces you already have or can find to purchase. I never found a 'socket' the correct O.D. to use as a bushing press, so I made my own part. But in the end you simply need something to act as a 'press' on one and then a 'cup' to accept the bushing on the other end. This is what I ended up with:

View attachment 2454684

The No. 2 bushing as it sits in the frame:

View attachment 2454682

The front of the bushing (toward front of vehicle) has a lip on it:


View attachment 2454677

The rear of the bushing has the longer protrusion. Whatever you use for a bushing 'press' must fit over the protrusion for both depth and diameter as well as having an O.D. that will fit the bushing bore in the frame but still contact the edges of the metal shell of the bushing. Some folks have found impact sockets that fit, I did not.

View attachment 2454686

Continued next post:

Once you have all your parts together its time to start pressing the bushing out:

View attachment 2454689

It seems that getting the bushing to start moving is the most difficult step. My vehicle is a Texas Truck all of it's life and pretty much rust free...but there will likely be corrosion between the bushing shell and the bushing bore, so getting that to break free is your first chore. I found that putting a good amount of pressure on the bushing and then heating the bushing bore (frame) made a HUGE difference.

View attachment 2454690

Once you have the bushing pressed out about 2/3rds the way....you can remove your press and just tap it out.

View attachment 2454696

Don't be in a hurry to throw away the old bushing. There is a washer/spacer on the end with the lip that you need to save and transfer over to the new bushing. If you don't look closely (or know that it is there) you might throw it away. I'm not sure how critical the part is...but it was there for some reason:

View attachment 2454699
View attachment 2454701

Continued nest post:

After you have your bushings out, take the time to clean up the bushing bore. This will make installing the new bushing much easier. Doesn't matter what you have or use....just get it clean and smooth. I happened to have a cupped wire brush that fit the bore and I was able to run it on a angled die grinder, but use whatever you have:

View attachment 2454712View attachment 2454713View attachment 2454714

Continues next post:

This bushing is slightly 'tapered' so starting it presents no problem. In fact, you can hand fit it nearly half its length:

View attachment 2454718


The new bushing installs so much easier than the old one came out....so don't fret about that:

View attachment 2454725

Done deal:


View attachment 2454730