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I used the Safelite shop that @lt1fire used to work at when I needed glass for my 470. The service writer seemed to know what to look out for and the installer must have done a decent job. Two years now and zero issues. They even paid my Uber home when I dropped it off because they had gotten behind schedule.
Yep its all down to the installer as I've said before. Pro tip normally the most seasoned guys will.work in the shop due to the amount of glass they have to sling every day. About 12 vs 5 for mobile guys.

Anyone in charlotte needs the names of good installers at the charlotte shop let me know.

100 series are easy compared to the gasket job needed on an 80.
 
Does anyone in the CLT area know of a good auto glass installer/company? Preferably someone that has experience with Land Cruisers, specifically the 100 series. :)
I have heard stories of leaks after replacement due to the inexperience of the glass installer.
I used a Safelite installer on the 470 up in Concord years back and they bent all of the mounding up and used sheet metal screws on the windshield frame. The thing had so much wind noise.

On the next windshield, I used QuacktGlass out of Fort Mill but bought all new Lexus mouldings, gaskets, trim and rivets. All of those parts are not cheap BTW. They were pretty affordable and did a great job. The installer took a fair amount of time to do it right. No leaks or wind noise.

 
Today, while doing the brakes on our 100 series I learned two very important things.

Thing one: The 80 series > The 100 series

Thing two: Never let any shop that hasn't worked on LC brakes EVER do a brake job for you.
 
Today, while doing the brakes on our 100 series I learned two very important things.

Thing one: The 80 series > The 100 series

Thing two: Never let any shop that hasn't worked on LC brakes EVER do a brake job for you.
What is there to mess up about a LC brake job? I guess any brake job for that matter.
 
What is there to mess up about a LC brake job? I guess any brake job for that matter.
I dunno, I would say the LC front brakes throw people off, maybe any solid front axle Toyota? It was kinda hard to tell at first, but the flanges on my truck were pretty beat up. My guess is that someone tried to take out the cone washers and couldn't get them to budge. So they tried to use the combination of a BFH and a screw driver (or chisel) on the flange mating surfaces to persuade the cone washers out. It did not do good things to the flanges or the hubs.

Not a huge issue, but definitely still an issue, were the lock washers. The shop that did the brakes last either didn't bend the tabs or only bent them onto the lock nut, leaving the adjusting nut unsecured. It's sorta funny to me because I find the lock washer tabs are easier to bend onto the adjustment nut than the lock nut...meh.

All the guide pin sleeves were left off the guide pins on the back brakes. The top guide pins on the calipers were okay and still moved for the most part, but the bottom guide pins, the ones with bushings, were almost completely seized in the bore. All of them were caked in brake dust.

EDIT: I realize my mistake above, the 100 series isn't a solid front axle Toyota (not counting the J105). It does have similar hubs to the earlier LCs though, hence the trouble.
 
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I dunno, I would say the LC front brakes throw people off, maybe any solid front axle Toyota? It was kinda hard to tell at first, but the flanges on my truck were pretty beat up. My guess is that someone tried to take out the cone washers and couldn't get them to budge. So they tried to use the combination of a BFH and a screw driver (or chisel) on the flange mating surfaces to persuade the cone washers out. It did not do good things to the flanges or the hubs.

Not a huge issue, but definitely still an issue, were the lock washers. The shop that did the brakes last either didn't bend the tabs or only bent them onto the lock nut, leaving the adjusting nut unsecured. It's sorta funny to me because I find the lock washer tabs are easier to bend onto the adjustment nut than the lock nut...meh.

All the guide pin sleeves were left off the guide pins on the back brakes. The top guide pins on the calipers were okay and still moved for the most part, but the bottom guide pins, the ones with bushings, were almost completely seized in the bore. All of them were caked in brake dust.

EDIT: I realize my mistake above, the 100 series isn't a solid front axle Toyota (not counting the J105). It does have similar hubs to the earlier LCs though, hence the trouble.
I knew what you meant. So they weren’t familiar with cone washers and went full gorilla on the drive flanges? Sweet.
 
Brake job for Honda Accord:

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove one 15mm caliper bolt
3. Hinge caliper up out of the way.
4. Pull off old rotor and replace with new
5. Compress piston(s)
6. Re-load caliper with new pads
7. Pivot caliper back down and install caliper bolt
8. Replace wheel.

Brake job for Toyota SFA:

1. Buy brass hammer and drift
2. Buy lock tite for caliper bolts
3. Buy flange gaskets
4. Remove wheel
5. Remove flange nuts and beat snot out of flange with brass hammer and drift until cone washers go flying about
6. Oh crap! Snap ring. Buy snap ring pliers.
7. Oh crap! Huge nut. Buy huge socket.
8. Hmm...what's this tab thing?
9. Oh crap! Another huge nut. Wonder if this has a torque spec? Look up torque spec. Find torque wrench for later.
10. Remove caliper bolts
11. Find piece of wire to hang caliper up out of the way. Note to self for later: Find needle nose pliers to remove funny looking clips and wire springy things.
12. Remove rotor and hub assembly. Wash hands. Note to self: Buy nitrile gloves and more brakleen next time.
13. Separate rotor from hub. Uh oh! Thank God I have air tools, air chisel and impact wrench.
14. Hmm...rear bearing seal got damaged during steps 1-13. Trip to parts store for new seals.
Steps 15-97: Similar frustration level to previous 14 steps.
98. Install wheel. Move on to next side and repeat steps 1-98.
 
Well today a second gauge died in my gauge cluster in the LX470. My oil pressure gauge died ~2 years ago and doesn't move. Today the speedo died and just sits at zero. Replaced the oil pressure sending unit a year or so ago with no luck. Luckily I can use my scanguage or Waze for a speedo in the interim.

Reached out to Tanin Auto Electronix for a quote to rebuild the cluster and we'll see what that comes out to be...I think it's usually $500 or so.
 
This came up on the Yahoo News feed. We have been going steady for over two years now and it never disappoints. We have purchased one car there and it was a very smooth experience, very professional all the way around. We are seeing "waves" of cars coming out of the wood work. Prices have been climbing at a pretty good clip and the Thursday "deal" cars are fewer and farther between.

 
My cousin is getting married near Asheville (Weaverville actually) this fall (aka peak leaf season). We foolishly waited until now to try and book a house big enough for 6 adults and two kids with at least 4 bedrooms and 3 baths for my extended family (6 adults and 2 teen girls). Everything we’ve found on VRBO and Airbnb is over our budget so it looks like we might get hotel rooms instead.

Does anyone here have any recommendations or words of advice, perhaps a local outfit that I should try?
 
I don't have a single property that large; but do have access to smaller, single dwellings. (I clean for AirBnB properties) - message me? I'll do my best to help.
 
Actually I lied I might be able to call in a favor. It would be towards Brevard, though. A doable drive. I do it from those areas for work, almost daily.
 
Ole boy wanted to race the 60 on the way to work this morning. I didn’t let peer pressure get the best of me and let him have it today....

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Some cars and coffee today

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