was wondering that. Flow can go both ways?
Builds Old Landy: An HJ45 Story/Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Cowboy45
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I think one connector is bigger than the other, compressed gas comes in from one and liquid exits from the other connector.
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Funny, I came back to this post when Cowboy45 liked it and realized I had wrote down the opposite of what a condensor does. I corrected it, don’t want tone responsible for false information on this forum.
Update. We got a fan that will work. Engine is at 2 degree tilt toward the rear. We put in a Fj62 transmission mount on hj55f and a fj62 cross member in position. Cross member sits flush with bottom of chassis. Looks like we will have to build some spacers to bridge the gap between transmission mount and cross member. Could close the gap some by lowering the drive train but fan would hit radiator and valve cover gets too close to firewall. Not comfortable having the drive train tilt rearward more than 2 degrees.
Cowboy45
Old Landy: An HJ45 Story/Build Thread
- Thread starter
- #885
The fan also rubs a little on the harmonic balancer so I threw some washers on the fan clutch studs to create some space but now I have only two threads or so to screw the nuts on. Does anyone know if there are some longer studs for the fan clutch? I bet I could go to the hardware store and figure something out but just curious.
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Trying to get the mock motor to fire up. Dropped a battery in, wired starter, and click! No go. Added a ground from engine to frame. Click. Wired starter directly to starter. Click. Pulled starter. 24v 
. Oops. Pulled starter and compared to Old Landy’s H started. Exact except mating surface, larger than 2H BH opening. . Going to take starter to local alternator place to see if they can rewire it to 12v.
Squirrel....
we worked on getting lights checked. We have lights front and back. Hazards. PS signal. Ground issue with DS. Chasing it down.
. Oops. Pulled starter and compared to Old Landy’s H started. Exact except mating surface, larger than 2H BH opening. . Going to take starter to local alternator place to see if they can rewire it to 12v.Squirrel....
we worked on getting lights checked. We have lights front and back. Hazards. PS signal. Ground issue with DS. Chasing it down.
...would check the glow plug relay... may be you need a new one.Trying to get the mock motor to fire up. Dropped a battery in, wired starter, and click! No go. Added a ground from engine to frame. Click. Wired starter directly to starter. Click. Pulled starter. 24v
We are not doing a glow plug relay system. We are doing a Wilson switch.
Cowboy45
Old Landy: An HJ45 Story/Build Thread
- Thread starter
- #893
Forgot to post this but I finished up the radiator and fan placement. I notched out the mounting spots for the core support to bring it closer to the bib. To account for this I ground off about a 1/4 inch off the front lip of the core support. Even after that I still had interference with the grill mesh so I decided to scrap it. Probably going to cut some mesh pieces and mount them differently just for the aesthetics but that’ll probably be a little down the road.
Got a new fan as well, blades are just short enough to clear the harmonic balancer, and with the core support modifications it has decent room to the radiator.
Got a new fan as well, blades are just short enough to clear the harmonic balancer, and with the core support modifications it has decent room to the radiator.
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Think I read too fast,
The starter does.` turn.....correct ?
...not a 24v problem..Would be the same with 12v.
The starter does.` turn.....correct ?
...not a 24v problem..Would be the same with 12v.
Something I learnt during the past few weeks, which may just apply.
Dagha Boy's battery went missing at the shop that was supposed to finish the build and did not. They replaced the battery. I bled the engine for first start after rebuild with the glow plugs out. Engine turned beautifully and bled quickly and easily. Replaced the glow plugs and glowed them thoroughly to test the indicator on the dash, and then accidently turned the key to start and she fired up almost instantaneously. Made me very happy.
but I found afterwards that if I did not glow the engine to within an inch of its life, the starter motor just made a grinding growling noise and would not spin the engine to start it even if it was hot from driving. It had to be thoroughly glowed and start instantaneously or no go.
Starter motor problem... But it too was completely overhauled. Got the sparky in. He listened. Took a look at the battery and pointed out that although the battery was the right size in dimensions, in capacity it is smaller and does not provide sufficient cranking amps to spin the engine enough for anything but an instant start.
Moral of the story, check your cranking amps on your battery.
Another caution ... Replace the wiring part of your ignition switch. When they get old and worn a short develops in the off position which activates the glow plug relay. You don't know it but it just happens one day and you end up with a flat battery and melted glow plugs stuck in your cylinder head. It is not expensive, just replace it and avoid future troubles.
I also found I had to run a new ground wire from the frame to the starter and glow plug relays where they are mounted on the fire wall at the passenger's feet. In my case that was needed because the coatings insulated them and the ground provided by the fasteners and capture nuts was simply not enough. Easy fix.
Looking good. Have fun.
Dagha Boy's battery went missing at the shop that was supposed to finish the build and did not. They replaced the battery. I bled the engine for first start after rebuild with the glow plugs out. Engine turned beautifully and bled quickly and easily. Replaced the glow plugs and glowed them thoroughly to test the indicator on the dash, and then accidently turned the key to start and she fired up almost instantaneously. Made me very happy.
but I found afterwards that if I did not glow the engine to within an inch of its life, the starter motor just made a grinding growling noise and would not spin the engine to start it even if it was hot from driving. It had to be thoroughly glowed and start instantaneously or no go.
Starter motor problem... But it too was completely overhauled. Got the sparky in. He listened. Took a look at the battery and pointed out that although the battery was the right size in dimensions, in capacity it is smaller and does not provide sufficient cranking amps to spin the engine enough for anything but an instant start.
Moral of the story, check your cranking amps on your battery.
Another caution ... Replace the wiring part of your ignition switch. When they get old and worn a short develops in the off position which activates the glow plug relay. You don't know it but it just happens one day and you end up with a flat battery and melted glow plugs stuck in your cylinder head. It is not expensive, just replace it and avoid future troubles.
I also found I had to run a new ground wire from the frame to the starter and glow plug relays where they are mounted on the fire wall at the passenger's feet. In my case that was needed because the coatings insulated them and the ground provided by the fasteners and capture nuts was simply not enough. Easy fix.
Looking good. Have fun.
Great lessons learned. Taking the starter in tomorrow to get it checked out and converted to 12v. Battery has 1000 CCA. Fires up my HJ60 just fine.
This must have had another reason on your car.
::. You never need to glow a warm or hot Diesel engine before you start.
Only a cold engine need it.::
You never need to glow a warm or hot Diesel engine before you start.
Only a cold engine need it.::
You never need to glow a warm or hot Diesel engine before you start.
Only a cold engine need it.::
You never need to glow a warm or hot Diesel engine before you start.
Only a cold engine need it.::
You never need to glow a warm or hot Diesel engine before you start.
Only a cold engine need it.::.
You never need to glow a warm .......
I drove a BJ43 34 years in any climate ... cold , warm & hot.
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Absolutely, but the battery was not able to turn the engine enough to get the fuel to ignite but could turn it just the half turn to do that when the fuel was spraying onto a nice hot glow plug. With my 3l CRD Grand Cherokee's battery in it starts easily after a few turns even when the "hot" engine has cooled down with an ambient temp of about 22 celcius. It bump starts almost instantly under the same conditions. The under powered battery simply cannot swing that old engine far enough to fire it up without the help of the glow plugs to add volatility to the fuel vapor.
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I like to wire ground directly from battery to starter as the main engine ground, If your ground cable is going from battery to frame, and then frame to starter, that is less then ideal in my opinion since you’re using the frame as a primary conductor.
Indeed, but the way the RHD drive H motor is wired up you need a very good earth to the solenoids located inside the cab on the left side lower firewall. Starter is wired directly to battery as normal. I see my post was not clearly worded on that. I am a ground freak and always overdo them but it always pays off.
