- Thread starter
- #41
AgreedThis would look great in Old Blue
It’s for sale locally, basically complete and turn key with the exhaust crossover, complete harness and ECM
Old and New: 5.7 Vortec to 6.0 LS Swap, ‘69 FJ40
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It’s for sale locally, basically complete and turn key with the exhaust crossover, complete harness and ECM
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Maybe I am doing something wrong. I used these to mount the throttle pedal and they pulled right through. I used a jack nut (last picture) instead for my computer mount and those seem better.
pm sentAgreed
It’s for sale locally, basically complete and turn key with the exhaust crossover, complete harness and ECM
I am not sure that install gun is going to be strong enough . I have one that looks more like a set of bolt cutters and really gets a bite .
- Thread starter
- #45
Oh I’ve never actually used that type. I weld mine in, they are flanged for that
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
I wondered about that. I didn’t think that I could get the long levers in there so I got this tool. It works great on the jack nuts but I wouldn’t put anything heavy on those.
Good point. Next time (here I am again with the “next time”) I will fit everything before paint.
- Thread starter
- #47
Good shot of the type I use, this was windshield frame repair on an M715. You “might” be able to MIG them however the flange is pretty thin and you don't want the weld higher than the flange. These don’t pop out tho and they are relatively cheap
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Thanks for the tips. I might settle for a nut/bolt for now as I’m not in the mood for anymore painting escapades for awhile. My liner is still drying!
- Thread starter
- #49
Yeah, excellent point. I like the weld nutserts and you HAVE to plan essentially everything out pre-paint. Inevitability I forget something and I end up bolting it through
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Mike, there are tools for the first nutserts you pictured that collapse the body to squeeze the panel, just like a rivet. It does not look like you collapsed them at all?
Here is economical option:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Here is more expensive option.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
What I use
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Thanks. The tool and nutserts that I pictured came together in a kit but I was skeptical that it would work when it arrived. I will probably send it back and check out both of your suggestions. These collapsed slightly but it was not as I expected.
Mike, there are tools for the first nutserts you pictured that collapse the body to squeeze the panel, just like a rivet. It does not look like you collapsed them at all?
Here is economical option:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
Here is more expensive option.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Yeah, I am jealous.
- Thread starter
- #56
Nice stuff
- Thread starter
- #57
The reassembly has begun. Spent most of the day sorting out wiring and putting some of the firewall back together
- Thread starter
- #58
Little stuff…
Wanted to retain the charging light I currently have in the dash. Did a little research and determined I just need to tie into the correct pin on the alternator and run that wire up to the light.
Had to order an aftermarket alternator plug since the factory plug is only 2 wire and the other ports are blocked
Unpinned the wires in the factory plug, swapped over to the new plug with the extra wire, done. Light green wire is the extra one for the charge light.
Also elected to install a low oil pressure warning light by repurposing an FJ40 turn signal housing and lens.
I believe the switch is an 18psi Autometer
Wanted to retain the charging light I currently have in the dash. Did a little research and determined I just need to tie into the correct pin on the alternator and run that wire up to the light.
Had to order an aftermarket alternator plug since the factory plug is only 2 wire and the other ports are blocked
Unpinned the wires in the factory plug, swapped over to the new plug with the extra wire, done. Light green wire is the extra one for the charge light.
Also elected to install a low oil pressure warning light by repurposing an FJ40 turn signal housing and lens.
I believe the switch is an 18psi Autometer
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #59
Extra credit. Found this complete OEM turn signal light in my box of FJ40 dash stuff. Un-soldered all the original wiring, my experience with 55 year old wiring is that it’s generally toast and it’s impossible to solder new wires to it.
With that gone, I media blasted the bulb housing, soldered new TXL wires in, shot it with Steel It and reassembled. It works
My understanding is that the Autometer switch essentially closes the ground circuit if the oil pressure drops below 18psi. With that in mind, I wrapped heavy duty Teflon tape around the bulb socket where it presses in to the rear of the light. That “should” prevent the circuit from grounding to the chassis. We will see
With that gone, I media blasted the bulb housing, soldered new TXL wires in, shot it with Steel It and reassembled. It works
My understanding is that the Autometer switch essentially closes the ground circuit if the oil pressure drops below 18psi. With that in mind, I wrapped heavy duty Teflon tape around the bulb socket where it presses in to the rear of the light. That “should” prevent the circuit from grounding to the chassis. We will see
- Thread starter
- #60
Decided to wrap the headers before the motor goes in tomorrow. Should help a bit with heat
And more parts arrived just in time.
Marking out the firewall for the heater pass through
DUN
10AN bulkhead connection
And more parts arrived just in time.
Marking out the firewall for the heater pass through
DUN
10AN bulkhead connection
