Builds OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 (9 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

We should start a new thread “Why I didn’t work on my 70 today”! 😀
Would probably a bit boring over time?
Cold temps, kids' events, waiting for parts, by order of partner, working to earn some money ...
Well, probably also temporary some 'Because it runs great and I was just wheeling it'... That might however become a nice picture thread then 😊.
Anyways. Right now I'm almost only doing 'theoretical dry runs' , like reading parts catalogs and workshop manuals on the 70 work to come.
At least I got the side blinker lens installed, and it was a fit. 2 screws in 2 weeks 😆
Keep warm, be cool 😎 and chill. Cheers Ralf
 
I think 24v spinning everything helps!


That’s the answer right there. It’s possible I have a tired starter, and my battery I think isnt great despite only being 2 years old.

That said, 24v would absolutely spin it faster and better than my 12v setup. Mine has struggled the last year or so starting at 0F sitting in an uninsulated shop.

Jump it and it spins much faster and starts decently easy. We are getting to -22F early next week. Found this online.

The standard rating for batteries is at room temperature 25 degrees C (about 77 F). At approximately -22 degrees F (-30 C), battery Ah capacity drops to 50%. At freezing, capacity is reduced by 20%.
 
That’s the answer right there. It’s possible I have a tired starter, and my battery I think isnt great despite only being 2 years old.

That said, 24v would absolutely spin it faster and better than my 12v setup. Mine has struggled the last year or so starting at 0F sitting in an uninsulated shop.

Jump it and it spins much faster and starts decently easy. We are getting to -22F early next week. Found this online.

The standard rating for batteries is at room temperature 25 degrees C (about 77 F). At approximately -22 degrees F (-30 C), battery Ah capacity drops to 50%. At freezing, capacity is reduced by 20%.
Sounds legit, that's exactly what happens to me too! 😜
 
Yeah for sure. I have two massive agm batteries shoehorned in there and at these temps I often rotate my c-tek charger back and forth between them. But the 24volt system still seems to be able to cope quite well when everything else is in good shape.
 
We are in our last day of the deep freeze. I can now say without question this is the best diesel vehicle I have ever had, in sub zero temps.

I'm starting to get ready for a big spring trip now. This usually means I'll decide to do some giant maintenance task 2 weeks before we leave.

:rolleyes: Stay tuned.

Meanwhile, this thing, albeit slow, underpowered and archaic, has somehow captured my heart and makes me giggle most days, and only swear on odd days.
 
Last edited:
We are in our last day of the deep freeze. I can now say without question this is the best diesel vehicle I have ever had, in sub zero temps.

I'm starting to get ready for a big spring trip now. This usually means I'll decide to do some giant maintenance task 2 weeks before we leave.

:rolleyes: Stay tuned.

Meanwhile, this thing, albeit slow, underpowered and archaic, has somehow captured my heart and makes me giggle most days, and only swear on odd days.
This made me smile.

Glad you are not just enjoying ol' Betsy, but loving her. That is what this is all about!

My boys will comment when I can't keep quiet about how awesome and smooth my Land Cruiser is running and driving, and they say - Well, after all the time and money I have put into it they certainly hope so! 😐

I guess they are correct in that... but it kind of ruins the joy of the moment... lol.

Giant maintenance? 🤔 I thought you were getting close to the end of all the updates/upgrades? Sounds like your spring trip should be fun!
 
Did some more micro adjusting of the pump and fuel last night before doing my test run/commute this morning. Unreal what a tiny change makes. Dropped my egts under certain conditions by about 100 US degrees!

This weekend I'm going to try to reduce what I've finally concluded to be fuel rattle... I am convinced my load sensing timer is in need of adjustment. This truck has been rattling me to distraction under load for the 3.5 years I've had it so I'm really anxious to see if I can finally tick that box as finished.

The puzzle is always what keeps one interested though right?
 
I think I'm onto something! Putting tension against that spring (by turning in the load sensing timer) is reducing the rattle! Finally I might have some results. I need to let her cool down for a bit and then retest but so far? There seems noticeably less rattle when I accelerate into that 2000 rpm zone...
 
I think I'm onto something! Putting tension against that spring (by turning in the load sensing timer) is reducing the rattle! Finally I might have some results. I need to let her cool down for a bit and then retest but so far? There seems noticeably less rattle when I accelerate into that 2000 rpm zone...
Great news! Did you happen to get a video of the sound you mean? Or does it only do it when it is under load (driving)?

I am asking because it would be easier for us to know what to watch out for and adjust accordingly.

Thanks for forging ahead relentlessly and chasing this gremlin down so the rest of us can shamelessly profit from your stoically patient efforts. :cheers:
 
Great news! Did you happen to get a video of the sound you mean? Or does it only do it when it is under load (driving)?

I am asking because it would be easier for us to know what to watch out for and adjust accordingly.

Thanks for forging ahead relentlessly and chasing this gremlin down so the rest of us can shamelessly profit from your stoically patient efforts. :cheers:
It only happened under load and more so when cold than warm. It's done it since I bought the truck in September of 2020. Given that this was the first 1HZ that I had ever driven, I just thought it was the nature of the beast. Over time though it started to grate on me. It was a rattle that sort of turned into a flutter as it warmed up... After driving @janyyc 's two rigs, and the green 97, I knew there was definitely something amiss...

I had intentions of doing a video this morning beforehand, but I wasn't sure my adjustment was going to do anything and I was afraid I would jinx it. I'm certainly not winding it back out again now. Lol.

The adjustment I'm doing sits right below the ACSD, if you still have it in place. There's a 14 mm lock nut and then a 5 mm hex. By turning the hex clockwise, my understanding is you put more tension on the spring. This probably could have been done by the company that did the pump rebuild, but I'm not sure how they would set it up unless the pump was on the vehicle?

This is by no means an encouragement to monkey with your pump blindly. As always, I do things dozens of times and occasionally I happen upon a solution. That doesn't mean it's the right way. 🤔
 
It's been a few weeks, and knock on wood, this is the best time she's ever run under my tutelage.

Still builds some heat in the pyro when climbing a hill but that used to be at 80kmh. Now it's 100.

Typical operation now? Parked outside at -10*C all day at work today. No plugins. Lit the glows till the second click. Once cycle only. Started with a tiny puff of exhaust on about half a turn of the motor. Ran smooth. Immediately left the lot, drove slowly through school zone, then eased up to speed towards the highway. Pretty noisy for a bit but warmed up quickly. Got quieter. Zero running smoke. None. Rattle that has plagued me is gone quickly, so it is more of a normal cold diesel rattle now...

I can do 120kmh on the highway if I want to. I can keep up with traffic. All this at 1100m +/- 100m.

I think we have entered a new phase in our relationship, where I can stop trying to track down gremlins, and enjoy/improve...
PXL_20240202_151551049.jpg
 
So yesterday I turned up the fuel about ⅛ of a turn, maybe a little more, since it felt like I was running out of fuel just over 3200 rpm or so. As I said before, she's very lean.

Results? Still no black smoke under any throttle position and my EGT's are slightly *lower*? Around 75-100°F less on hills. Also a little smoother to rev now once I get near the upper range. Seems counter to what I expected. I assumed more fuel = more heat?

Sure. I know exactly what I'm doing. ;) As long as I make tiny adjustments then test and monitor temps I figure she'll forgive me?
 
Last edited:
@JDM Journeys …. “Sure. I know exactly what I'm doing.”
————————————————————————————
Knowing what you’re doing is overrated. Creating the illusion that you know what you’re doing is every bit as important. 😊
 
As always, it takes a planned trip to get your butt in gear and get some loose ends lined up. Mine started with actual loose ends. I removed my rear seat a while back and bolted down the front half of the deck. But since then I've been trying to figure out a logical place for things...

Got two wolf packs and a new kennel with doors on end and side. And since the back seat is now gone, I was able to move my front runner 60L slant tank to the rear footwell. This leaves some space in between for soft bags or miscellaneous when the rear doors are open.

PXL_20240310_211725103.jpg


The water tank, kennel, and wolf packs are now strapped down on d-rings, both factory and added...
PXL_20240310_211820531.jpg

The kennel also offered a place to strap down the awning walls (green bags) for when they're needed.
PXL_20240310_211847371.jpg

The rear hasn't changed much except that I converted a compact Packout into a first aid kit.

Finally, my solar monitor has a home, although I still need to finish the other end.
PXL_20240310_211859145.jpg


Next up, I need to finish some wiring...
 
Some electrical work done today. Finally got my solar controller set up: a Renogy Rover MPPT feeding battery #3, with a remote panel mounted at the back door so I don't have to open the side cupboard to see all the fun in the sun (also, it was a freebie promo with the main controller. LOL).

I set up another fuse panel to reduce the amount of wiring running to the main panel.
PXL_20240317_231216771.jpg

PXL_20240317_231240198.jpg

Plugging in the panel is done via an SAE in the side vent.

PXL_20240317_234449826.jpg

I had some Anderson's saved for the job but a very low profile port worked better here. Not fancy but it should work.

I got a good deal on a 4 panel 160 watt folding unit earlier in the winter, so now I can put it to use.
 
Last edited:
My brother has been making cutting boards for a few years from exotic wood and resin. Real fancy stuff. We wondered if the same could be accomplished to replace the cutting board in a Frontrunner drop down table.

Here is the result:
PXL_20240405_155904358.jpg

I still need to put in some retaining bolts so it doesn't slide all the way out, but when stowed like the pic, it is rattle free. I think it turned out amazing! The blue resin is translucent but looks darker when folded against a black background.
PXL_20240405_155920176.jpg


We were worried about the thickness but it fits perfect and still has lots of structure.
 
As my close buddies know, I can't leave well enough alone. So I've continued to mess with my pump settings, seeking the holy grail of parameters that allow me to climb a hill with reasonable EGT's, start with no smoke, all the while not rattling like a dump-truck, yet still functioning at higher altitudes with reasonable fuel efficiency... Not a lot to ask from a naturally aspirated diesel with just shy of 300k kms. Is it?

The way I see it, I have four settings that I can screw up, four of which I probably shouldn't touch. LOL.

1. Pump timing
2. Fuel (AKA "smoke screw")
3. Load sensing timer (aka dynamic timing)
4. Idle

Then to a lesser extent, A/C idle up, and ACSD idle up.

I put the finishing touches on some MORE adjustments on Friday, and I think I've finally found the sweet spot. I set the base timing with the tool and then had to advance just a little until I got smooth revving at different speeds, in neutral and under load. Then I added a very very small amount of fuel (I was so lean before that my pump would run out at 3400 rpm if I revved it that high).

I can now get a smokeless cold start, but still climb a decent hill in 4th at 90km/h under 800F (EGT). I even climbed a hill this morning at 109kmh in 5th (just to see if I could) and EGT's still stayed under 900F. I am noticing that 3rd gear seems to run out of oomph when you reach 80kmh, but with my lower EGT's now, I don't have to downshift as soon, since 4th is so much more useable. Yes, I can still get to 1200F with a faint line of black smoke if I put my foot flat on the floor, but that seems normal for a fuel pump that still uses wax pellets and rubber bellows, right? Finally, it is MUCH less rattly, especially after warmup. It is amazing how much difference tiny changes can make, when done in the right combination.

Water temps now generally sit around 182-194F, depending on what cycle the thermostat is in, and what I'm demanding from the engine.

If there was a shop near me that would do it, I would've gotten this all set properly last year after my pump rebuild, but even the Cummins guys weren't real keen on touching it. And my shop rate is a lot cheaper than theirs...

My point here is this: if you have professionals nearby that can set up your pump, it is money well spent. If you don't, get an egt gauge, a timing tool (with dial indicator) and have an accurate way to read coolant temps. Then make your adjustments incrementally, ONE thing at a time, using the same piece of road for accurate interpretation of your results. This is obvious to most, but by recording it, maybe I'll follow my own advice?

My big Utah trip is coming next month, so I'm really happy to have her running at her best... (if you've read about any of my adjustments before, this will feel very deja vous, since I've said this before. So just wait... and we'll see? Maybe I can leave it alone this time?)
 
Last edited:
As my close buddies know, I can't leave well enough alone. So I've continued to mess with my pump settings, seeking the holy grail of parameters that allow me to climb a hill with reasonable EGT's, start with no smoke, all the while not rattling like a dump-truck, yet still functioning at higher altitudes with reasonable fuel efficiency... Not a lot to ask from a naturally aspirated diesel with just shy of 300k kms. Is it?

The way I see it, I have four settings that I can screw up, four of which I probably shouldn't touch. LOL.

1. Pump timing
2. Fuel (AKA "smoke screw")
3. Load sensing timer (aka dynamic timing)
4. Idle

Then to a lesser extent, A/C idle up, and ACSD idle up.

I put the finishing touches on some MORE adjustments on Friday, and I think I've finally found the sweet spot. I set the base timing with the tool and then had to advance just a little until I got smooth revving at different speeds, in neutral and under load. Then I added a very very small amount of fuel (I was so lean before that my pump would run out at 3400 rpm if I revved it that high).

I can now get a smokeless cold start, but still climb a decent hill in 4th at 90km/h under 800F (EGT). I even climbed a hill this morning at 109kmh in 5th (just to see if I could) and EGT's still stayed under 900F. I am noticing that 3rd gear seems to run out of oomph when you reach 80kmh, but with my lower EGT's now, I don't have to downshift as soon, since 4th is so much more useable. Yes, I can still get to 1200F with a faint line of black smoke if I put my foot flat on the floor, but that seems normal for a fuel pump that still uses wax pellets and rubber bellows, right? Finally, it is MUCH less rattly, especially after warmup. It is amazing how much difference tiny changes can make, when done in the right combination.

Water temps now generally sit around 182-194F, depending on what cycle the thermostat is in, and what I'm demanding from the engine.

If there was a shop near me that would do it, I would've gotten this all set properly last year after my pump rebuild, but even the Cummins guys weren't real keen on touching it. And my shop rate is a lot cheaper than theirs...

My point here is this: if you have professionals nearby that can set up your pump, it is money well spent. If you don't, get an egt gauge, a timing tool (with dial indicator) and have an accurate way to read coolant temps. Then make your adjustments incrementally, ONE thing at a time, using the same piece of road for accurate interpretation of your results. This is obvious to most, but by recording it, maybe I'll follow my own advice?

My big Utah trip is coming next month, so I'm really happy to have her running at her best... (if you've read about any of my adjustments before, this will feel very deja vous, since I've said this before. So just wait... and we'll see? Maybe I can leave it alone this time?)
Really good info and great way to get to, and report the results. Thanks for sharing, and looking forward to your reports from your trip to Utah.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom