Damn.......that link has misinformation. I did some more checking, that battery only has 26ah. Back to the drawing board.
Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Damn.......that link has misinformation. I did some more checking, that battery only has 26ah. Back to the drawing board.
Yes, it's also a battery isolator. No need for a BlueSea or whatever dual battery system. If you want to manually jump one battery to another (for whatever reason), the SBI12D is needed according to Redarc. Or bring out the jumper cables. Press a button on the dash and both batteries are linked. Which I already have.
The only thing it can't do that I wish it could is accept 120/240 I put for charging. But my GoPower unit already does that.
I've been toying with the idea of a DC-DC charger for a while too. Both the Redarc and CTEK have strengths and weaknesses but since I'm also planning on "permanently" mounting an 80 watt panel on the roof rack, the added feature of the DC-DC may not even have value to us. I'm really liking the idea of an MPPT controller with Bluetooth...
The D250S DUAL included with the 100A kit is an MPPT controller, but I'm still contemplating how much I need vs. how much I want...
Speaking of our 80watt panel, guess what showed up today
View attachment 1613223
You're right. I must have been looking at something else...
indycole
GOLD Star
Quite good. Install was a breeze. Once it's in and all hooked up it just does it's own thing. It's successfully isolated a drained aux battery from my starter just like any dual battery setup (and vice versa when I had a parasitic drain on my starter it isolated it from my aux). Granted I have a lithium so that charges super fast, but the voltage boost from the Redarc works well from what I see. I wired in the solar but only tested it so far. No field use yet, the lithium has power for days. But if I was camped for more than two days I'd throw the solar panel out and be golden as far as power is concerned indefinitely (or until the Lithium craps out in a few years).
The only solution I still need to work out is a monitor for solar. Not a huge deal but I'd like to know the juice flowing into the unit via solar. I can easily add a voltage and amp monitor, I just haven't yet. Manual jumping from one battery to another is another thing it can't do out of the box. Not a big deal for me as I always have a lithium jump pack in the rig but some people might want to link both manually for whatever reason. Extra winching power I guess? But it links both batteries while running anyways and you're probably not winching without the motor running. You can still manually link but you'd need the Redarc SBI. Which I actually have from my previous setup, but I removed it when I put the BCDC in.
The upcoming 110VAC Manager30 sounds cool but you'll still need an inverter and the unit is very expensive. My GoPower and Redarc BCDC does everything the Manager30 does minus the monitoring. Also the Manager30 is about 6x the size of the BCDC but about the same total size as the GoPower, sorta. And the GoPower is an inverter, switch, and charger all in one and it can work with the BCDC with a few setting changes.
All that said, the best purchase was the lithium battery. If you can swing the initial purchase it's 1/3 the weight, twice the capacity, and has a longer life than a conventional AGM. The thing is magical. And no issues with heat in the engine bay during Baja or Moab.
Last edited:
Where did you mount the REDARC? I have the CTEK250DS and I’m trying to figure out where to put it.
RET2
SILVER Star
Another location is on top of the fuse boxes? I used the drivers side and put my SPOD on the passenger box.
My sPod is on my passenger side so I may have to use my driver side fuse box. I have the twin compressor so it won’t fit on the Slee bracket for me.
As always, great thread. Very grateful you all like to experiment and then share your findings.
So, I'm getting ready to put a group 31 AGM in the primary tray (slee version) and was concerned about the factory voltage issue described earlier in this thread. The voltage booster option seems like a no-brainer solution.
The questions I have are on the alternator voltage booster options.
So, I'm getting ready to put a group 31 AGM in the primary tray (slee version) and was concerned about the factory voltage issue described earlier in this thread. The voltage booster option seems like a no-brainer solution.
The questions I have are on the alternator voltage booster options.
- Is there an advantage to ordering from HKB over Dirty Parts? I assume shipping times would be shorter stateside, so is the HKB worth the wait?
- The Dirty Parts Toyota Alternator Voltage Booster doesn't explicitly call out the LC200 application. It does say, "found in many late-model Toyota trucks and SUVs". Am I correct to assume it still works for our LC200s (well, pre-16...)?
- HKB now offers two options (at least for the 2011 LC200s): MK3 Micro Blade 5A and MK3 Mini Blade 5A. The Mini Blade site says: "Note, the vehicle manufacturer has equipped this vehicle with micro blade fuses as standard, however a mini blade fuse can be substituted for a micro blade if you choose to do so." Is there an advantage to choosing mini blade over micro blade - aside from saving a whopping 10 big gulps?
Markuson
SILVER Star
HKB is cleaner. No wired resistor hanging out.
RET2
SILVER Star
One caveat to the small boost in voltage is that our stock alt's are temperature compensating which translates to 13.8 volts at cold or cooler temps HOWEVER when things heat up it drops to 13.2 volts. The replacement part only increases whatever your alt is producing by approx .6 volts. In short, even with the replacement you won't always get 14.4 volts. As to the cross usage my '14 Tacoma and my '14 200 both use the same replacement part. I keep the stock fuse in the glove box should the new part grenade.
I ordered the part HKM from Australia and with no explanation they refunded my money. for the dirty part, I assume the rear is towards the firewall and likely Hot. I did not measure it
Looking to answer these questions
WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE LET US KNOW IF THE FRONT LEG(towards the front bumper)OR REAR LEG (towards the firewall) OF THE "ALT-S" FUSE IS 12-VOLT HOT ON YOUR VEHICLE WITH THE KEY ON (and the factory fuse out) TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT UNIT
Looking to answer these questions
WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE LET US KNOW IF THE FRONT LEG(towards the front bumper)OR REAR LEG (towards the firewall) OF THE "ALT-S" FUSE IS 12-VOLT HOT ON YOUR VEHICLE WITH THE KEY ON (and the factory fuse out) TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT UNIT
