So, I just got my diode from HKB in Australia. It took 10 days to get here. I'll do some testing and report back.
Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You can make one for a few bucks or also order from the US of A at this place. (where I got mine)
Dirty Parts
Dirty Parts
I have a dual battery setup with Northstar batteries (X2 from Batteries Plus). They specify 14.0 to 14.8V charging. My alternator was putting out 13.6V when warm. I used an add-a-circuit tap to insert a diode and went to 14.2V. Grand total of $10 invested and 20 minutes of labor.
Do you happen to know of a walk-through to make one?
Was hoping to pick one up from Dirty Parts before leaving town this weekend, but they are closed until Jan 2nd.
Any walk-throughs for special-ed electricians?
Do you happen to know of a walk-through to make one?
Was hoping to pick one up from Dirty Parts before leaving town this weekend, but they are closed until Jan 2nd.
Any walk-throughs for special-ed electricians?
I think the guy explains it somewhere in here but good 'ol photobucket blocked the pics. Still good info in the thread.
Alternator voltage? - Page 3 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
- Thread starter
- #28
Update ...
Blue Sea isolator and diode are working great.
The regular drives around the city hover around 12.6v after cooling overnight, but then a longer drive for an hour+ gets it up to about 12.75v which is close enough to fully charged for me.
Half hour city drive takes the voltage from about 12.2v to 12.6v.
No need for dcdc charger when battery is under bonnet. It is a good story when the dcdc charger marketing guys say that it is essential to fully charge a battery. Unfortunately not true.
Blue Sea isolator and diode are working great.
The regular drives around the city hover around 12.6v after cooling overnight, but then a longer drive for an hour+ gets it up to about 12.75v which is close enough to fully charged for me.
Half hour city drive takes the voltage from about 12.2v to 12.6v.
No need for dcdc charger when battery is under bonnet. It is a good story when the dcdc charger marketing guys say that it is essential to fully charge a battery. Unfortunately not true.
Any chance of a walk-through to what you added & how? Were you working off of an online walk-through? Would love to find a link to one... Been poking around, but haven't found a tutorial, etc. yet.
indycole
GOLD Star
Check your fuse box before you order one of those... turns out some of our US trucks don't even utilize the required fuse slot.
Oh... Just noticed you're in Sydney...
They aren't as ready available in the US, and "Dirty Parts" shop is closed til 2018.
You Australians have no idea how much easier your LC lives are compared to the US.
I guess I'm still missing something -- I don't see a fuse labeled ALT-S. Any thoughts?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Oh... Just noticed you're in Sydney...
They aren't as ready available in the US, and "Dirty Parts" shop is closed til 2018.
You Australians have no idea how much easier your LC lives are compared to the US.
I bought that fuse from Australia and had it in 5 days. It’s been work wonderfully for about 6 months now. Gives me 14.6v under cold charge. (Remember we have temperature variable alternators, as to not charge a hot battery)
Last edited:
indycole
GOLD Star
My experience with my 2016 is that there is no existing fuse in the ALT-S slot and that the alternator output voltage does not change if the trickster fuse is installed in either orientation.
I’ll find out when mine arrives... Ordered a week or so ago... 2008, so we’ll see.
If Taco and Gaijins experience is what happens, i’ll Be happy.
Weird that the 2016 is so different. :-/
Please update with your experience once you've done this mod. Very curious but very uncomfortable with anything electrical. That said, this so far sounds like it makes sense. Don't want my expensive AGMs to go mammary skyward early if I can prevent it.