Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?

[James Bentley]

I ordered the part HKM from Australia and with no explanation they refunded my money. for the dirty part, I assume the rear is towards the firewall and likely Hot. I did not measure it

Looking to answer these questions

WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE LET US KNOW IF THE FRONT LEG(towards the front bumper)OR REAR LEG (towards the firewall) OF THE "ALT-S" FUSE IS 12-VOLT HOT ON YOUR VEHICLE WITH THE KEY ON (and the factory fuse out) TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT UNIT

I don't recall seeing that wording on my order a year ago...just have your Digital Volt Meter (DVOM) hooked up to the battery, swap in the fuse, start the truck and read the voltage at idle, then look at the instrument cluster (Battery light on or off?), then turn vehicle off. Then pull the fuse and turn it around and perform same test: my voltage went up 0.5 V and I had no Battery Light.

 

[James Bentley]

I don't recall seeing that wording on my order a year ago...just have your Digital Volt Meter (DVOM) hooked up, swap in the fuse, start the truck and read the voltage at idle, then look at the instrument cluster (Battery light on or off?), then turn vehicle off. Then pull the fuse and turn it around and perform same test: my voltage went up 0.5 V and I had no Battery Light.

@Romer this is what I bought and it has no wording/instruction about the "front/rear leg": MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics

 

[Romer]

@Romer this is what I bought and it has no wording/instruction about the "rear leg": MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics

Yeah, that is the one I ordered and the refunded my money with no explanation, so was looking into the dirty part model

 

[James Bentley]

@Romer I sent you a DM

 

[Romer]

I received a response from the vendor, so I will wait a few weeks and reorder

I have been having trouble obtaining customs forms, they should have arrived a couple

of weeks back but I haven't seen them yet, as I could not ship your items I refunded your

payment, sorry for any inconvenience caused. Please wait a week or so and reorder hopefully

the forms should have arrived by then.

 

[CharlieS]

I ordered the part HKM from Australia and with no explanation they refunded my money. for the dirty part, I assume the rear is towards the firewall and likely Hot. I did not measure it

Looking to answer these questions

WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE LET US KNOW IF THE FRONT LEG(towards the front bumper)OR REAR LEG (towards the firewall) OF THE "ALT-S" FUSE IS 12-VOLT HOT ON YOUR VEHICLE WITH THE KEY ON (and the factory fuse out) TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT UNIT

Like someone else said, plug it in, if you get a battery light on the dash, turn the car off and flip the fuse 180 degrees. Simple, but I can verify that it is effective.

 

[BigMF]

Hey guys, good thread here. I'm looking to upgrade my power supply like a lot of other folks so this has been a great thread.

Currently (electrical pun intended) I'm looking at doing something like:
Battery - Odyssey ODX-AGM31
Fuse mod - Mini Blade (to save $20 over the micro-blade)

My questions are:

1. Is that battery still a good option or are there others that are better now? I see a lot of the Optima batteries floating around in pictures and/or advertising but think the Odyssey may still be a better option.
2. Any reason why I should pay $20 more for the "micro-blade" fuse/mod? The website says the Mini will fit.
3. Earlier in the thread, there was some discussion about the AGM batteries not liking the heat. Have there been any real-world issues with folks having their AGM batteries dying pre-maturely related to heat?
4. Do I really need the $145 Slee primary battery tray to hold the bigger battery? Are there any other options? Not opposed to DIY fabrication that does NOT involve welding.

Thanks!

 

[prharper]

Hey guys, good thread here. I'm looking to upgrade my power supply like a lot of other folks so this has been a great thread.

Currently (electrical pun intended) I'm looking at doing something like:
Battery - Odyssey ODX-AGM31
Fuse mod - Mini Blade (to save $20 over the micro-blade)

My questions are:

1. Is that battery still a good option or are there others that are better now? I see a lot of the Optima batteries floating around in pictures and/or advertising but think the Odyssey may still be a better option.
2. Any reason why I should pay $20 more for the "micro-blade" fuse/mod? The website says the Mini will fit.
3. Earlier in the thread, there was some discussion about the AGM batteries not liking the heat. Have there been any real-world issues with folks having their AGM batteries dying pre-maturely related to heat?
4. Do I really need the $145 Slee primary battery tray to hold the bigger battery? Are there any other options? Not opposed to DIY fabrication that does NOT involve welding.

Thanks!

I'm running that Odyssey battery for spare with REDARC BCP1225D and SBI.
I'm still using the OEM Toyota battery (2018) on my main.
Have the Slee battery trays installed.
Anyway, my Odyssey is a year old now and I'm not running any fuse mods. No issues for me so far. I do try and top off the Odyssey with an external charger every month or so.

 

[CharlieS]

Hey guys, good thread here. I'm looking to upgrade my power supply like a lot of other folks so this has been a great thread.

Currently (electrical pun intended) I'm looking at doing something like:
Battery - Odyssey ODX-AGM31
Fuse mod - Mini Blade (to save $20 over the micro-blade)

My questions are:

1. Is that battery still a good option or are there others that are better now? I see a lot of the Optima batteries floating around in pictures and/or advertising but think the Odyssey may still be a better option.
2. Any reason why I should pay $20 more for the "micro-blade" fuse/mod? The website says the Mini will fit.
3. Earlier in the thread, there was some discussion about the AGM batteries not liking the heat. Have there been any real-world issues with folks having their AGM batteries dying pre-maturely related to heat?
4. Do I really need the $145 Slee primary battery tray to hold the bigger battery? Are there any other options? Not opposed to DIY fabrication that does NOT involve welding.

Thanks!

1) I don't know about good/better/best. I think the Odyssey is a high quality AGM. What made the decision for me was which high end AGM dealer had a local presence. Only Odyssey had a local dealer.
2) The vehicle doesn't care, both fit. I used the mini.
3) @TeCKis300 will tell you AGM won't survive and flooded lead acid is the way to go. I haven't had a problem with AGM (note that I live in a northern climate that doesn't see true high temps often).
4) Do we need any of this stuff? . The Slee tray is a high quality product. Then again, there isn't that much to it. You could easily go without, or fabricate your own hold down. The only for-sure thing is that the stock plastic tray is too small for the larger battery.

I'd actually recommend stepping up to the adjustable HKB with the Odyssey. It likes higher voltage, and the basic diode doesn't go as high as the adjustable.

PS. I moved to a '16 where the diode doesn't work, so if you're interested make me an offer on the adjustable HKB one.

 

[Sandroad]

Hey guys, good thread here. I'm looking to upgrade my power supply like a lot of other folks so this has been a great thread.

Currently (electrical pun intended) I'm looking at doing something like:
Battery - Odyssey ODX-AGM31
Fuse mod - Mini Blade (to save $20 over the micro-blade)

My questions are:

1. Is that battery still a good option or are there others that are better now? I see a lot of the Optima batteries floating around in pictures and/or advertising but think the Odyssey may still be a better option.
2. Any reason why I should pay $20 more for the "micro-blade" fuse/mod? The website says the Mini will fit.
3. Earlier in the thread, there was some discussion about the AGM batteries not liking the heat. Have there been any real-world issues with folks having their AGM batteries dying pre-maturely related to heat?
4. Do I really need the $145 Slee primary battery tray to hold the bigger battery? Are there any other options? Not opposed to DIY fabrication that does NOT involve welding.

Thanks!

What do you need battery power for? That might help determine best option. Note too it’s more than tray size for a larger battery; it’s also terminal connections.

 

[BigMF]

3) @TeCKis300 will tell you AGM won't survive and flooded lead acid is the way to go. I haven't had a problem with AGM (note that I live in a northern climate that doesn't see true high temps often).

I'd actually recommend stepping up to the adjustable HKB with the Odyssey. It likes higher voltage, and the basic diode doesn't go as high as the adjustable.

PS. I moved to a '16 where the diode doesn't work, so if you'r interested make me an offer on the adjustable HKB one.

I live in Tennessee so it does get relatively hot here in the summers. Not Death Valley hot but the humidity kills me even if it won't directly affect the battery.

If I decide to go through with this I'll PM you about the used diode. Thanks!

What do you need battery power for? That might help determine best option. Note too it’s more than tray size for a larger battery; it’s also terminal connections.

I'm planning on a long road trip to Colorado and Utah next summer with my son and working towards getting my truck prepped. To that end, I'm looking at adding multiple new accessories that will draw power. For example:

1. Fridge
2. Winch
3. New light bars, front, back, and sides.

Additionally, I'm thinking that my Lexus battery may be nearing the end of its life (based on the purchase date of the previous owner) so was going to get a head start on my research there. I don't think I need a dual battery set up due to the expense and complexity. I carry a "jump pack" with me at all times already and will have it when I'm off-grid. I'm also thinking about adding some solar options to my kit at some point.

So, the main reason I believe I need a bigger battery will be to have sufficient power to run the fridge overnight without too much fear of it running the battery too far down. Also, definitely looking at making sure the fridge I purchase will have a low-battery cutoff option.

So, the bigger battery has different size terminals?

There are many other things I'm planning for (rack, rooftop tent, interior storage, possibly bumper(s), skid plates, new radiator/water pump, etc.) so I'm trying to be practical without being dangerously cheap.

 

[Sandroad]

I live in Tennessee so it does get relatively hot here in the summers. Not Death Valley hot but the humidity kills me even if it won't directly affect the battery.

If I decide to go through with this I'll PM you about the used diode. Thanks!



I'm planning on a long road trip to Colorado and Utah next summer with my son and working towards getting my truck prepped. To that end, I'm looking at adding multiple new accessories that will draw power. For example:

1. Fridge
2. Winch
3. New light bars, front, back, and sides.

Additionally, I'm thinking that my Lexus battery may be nearing the end of its life (based on the purchase date of the previous owner) so was going to get a head start on my research there. I don't think I need a dual battery set up due to the expense and complexity. I carry a "jump pack" with me at all times already and will have it when I'm off-grid. I'm also thinking about adding some solar options to my kit at some point.

So, the main reason I believe I need a bigger battery will be to have sufficient power to run the fridge overnight without too much fear of it running the battery too far down. Also, definitely looking at making sure the fridge I purchase will have a low-battery cutoff option.

So, the bigger battery has different size terminals?

There are many other things I'm planning for (rack, rooftop tent, interior storage, possibly bumper(s), skid plates, new radiator/water pump, etc.) so I'm trying to be practical without being dangerously cheap.

The terminals are the same size, just in a different location on the group 31 batteries. You'll need extensions for the cables to reach. The Slee tray comes with those, but you can invent your own if needed. A new deep cycle is going to be a good investment, given your older OEM battery and increased power needs. Check other threads on Mud for battery suggestions too. I'm not a big fan of AGM construction because I've killed so many due to not getting them charged high enough often enough to prevent sulfating. The question of which battery has been debated and posted about so often on Mud that you can read as much as you could possibly want in the many threads on the subject.

 

[CharlieS]

Another thought, in case you go down this road - you might want to grab a charger that is made for AGM batteries. I only had old school lead acid battery chargers, so I picked up a charger capable of handling AGM batteries.

 

[Markuson]

Another thought, in case you go down this road - you might want to grab a charger that is made for AGM batteries. I only had old school lead acid battery chargers, so I picked up a charger capable of handling AGM batteries.

CTEK 7002 set to AGM works well to top up.

 

[wiseinvestor]

I don't know if I'm tired or just stupid... I do my best to try not to ask questions that were just answered so apologies.
The thread is titled "either or" and people with dcdc are offering up their hkb fuses... so
It must be that if a DCDC is being used, then there is no need for the hkb magic fuse to increase the output from the alternator?
Am I understanding this correctly?

 

[CharlieS]

I don't know if I'm tired or just stupid... I do my best to try not to ask questions that were just answered so apologies.
The thread is titled "either or" and people with dcdc are offering up their hkb fuses... so
It must be that if a DCDC is being used, then there is no need for the hkb magic fuse to increase the output from the alternator?
Am I understanding this correctly?

They do different jobs: the bcdc manages charging if the house (auxiliary) battery, while the starting battery is charged from the alternator. The diode in the alt-s fuse position fools the alternator into putting out higher voltage. Some batteries, like the Odessey AGM that I used, do better with a higher charging voltage. If you don't have something to boost the charging voltage, you may need to do periodic charging maintenance to keep your batteries healthy.

 

[wiseinvestor]

They do different jobs: the bcdc manages charging if the house (auxiliary) battery, while the starting battery is charged from the alternator. The diode in the alt-s fuse position fools the alternator into putting out higher voltage. Some batteries, like the Odessey AGM that I used, do better with a higher charging voltage. If you don't have something to boost the charging voltage, you may need to do periodic charging maintenance to keep your batteries healthy.

That makes sense to me. Thank you

 

[lrowe_csp]

I ordered the HKB minifuse just before Christmas and it arrived the third week of January. Installing the HKB in my 2014 LC took about 10 minutes from the time I walked out to the time I was done. I started it up to check the voltage and had to flip the fuse around as I did get the red battery icon on the dash. Once that was done, I showed 14.6v on the scan gauge, dropping down to 14.5v before I shut it off a minute or two later. This should do a better job charging my large Odessey AGM.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I ordered the HKB minifuse just before Christmas and it arrived the third week of January. Installing the HKB in my 2014 LC took about 10 minutes from the time I walked out to the time I was done. I started it up to check the voltage and had to flip the fuse around as I did get the red battery icon on the dash. Once that was done, I showed 14.6v on the scan gauge, dropping down to 14.5v before I shut it off a minute or two later. This should do a better job charging my large Odessey AGM.

I thinks it’s a great little device.

I’ve had mine in since 2016ish and never put that battery on a charger when in the garage. Just keeps everything like it should.

 

[RET2]

I thinks it’s a great little device.

I’ve had mine in since 2016ish and never put that battery on a charger when in the garage. Just keeps everything like it should.

Of course after I installed said part I noticed a post on Tacoma World about a similar Ford OEM part that's only about $10. Does the same thing as the Aussie unit. Google Ford diode 4F2Z.