would just like to confirm the compatibility for 1 pc spacers, kindly see the photos thanks
the thread on the 4 sides seems still long enough but the center one is quite short already
Notice anything extra or out of place?
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would just like to confirm the compatibility for 1 pc spacers, kindly see the photos thanks
the thread on the 4 sides seems still long enough but the center one is quite short already
thanks
by the way, after installing the OE spacer, do I need to do something with the kdss? or just close the valves thats it?
Is this not creating a higher static pressure on the AHC system when raising it only this way? Wouldn’t it be better to preload the coil with this spacer and adjust the sensor to allow the pressure to be within spec?
You're correct. Though AHC has proven robust and even with a mild sensor only lift, still maintains pretty solid payload capability. Unlike the 100-series.
Using spacers on the front is a recent development for the LX570. @MTKID proved it can be done. To your point it should also better maintain neutral pressures with a lift. Or if left at stock height, would increase payload capability (e.g. for bumpers/winch). Or both.
There's a very slight unproven risk that this may cause the AHC shock to bottom out more readily on big hits and prematurely die. Really depend on the AHC shock body length, and whether the stock suspension limiter on the LCA still protects it sufficiently. It's more than likely the AHC shock is exactly the same length as the LC shock, and because this spacer works there without issue, should work here.
As a bonus, it's very possibly this spacer mod would also increase suspension stroke by ~1". Which would make this mod even more worthwhile. That discussion here - Front Coil Spacer - Increased Suspension Stroke?
Looking to get wheels and tires on my 18 and the shop recommends I stay with stock size. Hopping to add just enough clearance for Ray 10s on Wildpeak 275/70 r18s. Will the spacer do the trick? I assume the spacer is not standard on the 18 model.
Those tires will fit right on stock np, adding those wheels on the other hand will require you to get the hot knife out and lose some plastic/mudflaps...
Thanks kreiten. Sounds like spacers are not required with stock or Ray 10s.
I run 18x9 Fuels with 285/70 R18's, I think those Ray 10's are 25mm offset right? It's the offset that will get ya because it's changes the whole sweep of the wheel/tire. If you don't mind losing the mud flaps and part of the inner fender lining you can make them work. I run a lift and the front spacers. Also depends on how hard ya push the thing what will fit and what will hit.
You're right on, on the offset. I guess I got to do some more reading as I thought the offset would push the wheel out allowing for more clearence. Havent committed to Ray 10s so may look at other options.
It gives ya more clearance on the UCA and te KDSS bar but due to the offset pushes further i to the rear fender when turning... yiu can run those wheels, just gotta lose some plastic to do it
Can you post a pic of the bolts you are referring to? I just got spacers and was planning to tackle myself
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Don’t have the 200 anymore, but they are at the 6’clock position at the lowest part of the hub. Iirc, they need something like 300ft/lbs of torque, so make sure you have the capability to properly reinstall before you take them off.
Thanks, @Tex AZ also pointed them out to me yesterday. these 2. Good point on the torque though, if it really is 300, that's beyond what my torque wrench can do.
bloc
SILVER Star
Those bolts are 221ft-lb. I wasn’t able to get the arm to droop enough just disconnecting those, even with a huge bar pushing down.
As a result I also had to do the lower arm inner pivot bolts, which release tension on those bushings and lets the arm swing down freely. 207ft-lb for those. Had more trouble tightening them back, due to limited space under the truck and the fact that they have to be tightened at ride height to avoid destroying the bushings. But, when you get it aligned after the work they’ll use these to set your camber & caster, so can be tightened on the lift easily.
As a result I also had to do the lower arm inner pivot bolts, which release tension on those bushings and lets the arm swing down freely. 207ft-lb for those. Had more trouble tightening them back, due to limited space under the truck and the fact that they have to be tightened at ride height to avoid destroying the bushings. But, when you get it aligned after the work they’ll use these to set your camber & caster, so can be tightened on the lift easily.
Thanks for the toque specs. My inner LCA bolts have the common issue where they are seized. When i originally got my lift installed, they said they weren't able to get the alignment 100% because they couldn't adjust the LCA. I still have stock UCA's so limited as what they can adjust on those.
bloc
SILVER Star
If those bushings are still referenced to stock height and you have a lift you might have significant trouble getting the arm down enough to clear the strut end.
Good luck with it.
good point. I'm gonna spray them down with PB Blaster for a few days and just see if there is any way i can get them to fee up. It's been on my todo list for a while to look into the issue. worst case i hear some have cut the bolts out, but i know i then run the risk of damaging the LCA's which could get expensive real quick
