Newbie- ignorance is bliss.

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Great time lapse of the disassembly !

Awesome way to honor your friend, and saving the FJ40 for his memory. You're not alone - @CharlestonG8R is doing something similar.
 
While I was getting the body apart, I wondered about the bolt that is just behind the doors at the top of the tub- the bigger of these two. I see it in pictures of other Fj's but don't see anything attached to them.

Those bolts screw up against the hardtop post when you drop the hardtop back on and puts the squeeze on the posts.
Wow what a nice original 40 that was!!!
 
I think the larger bolt to which you are referring was used to secure the rear anchor for the door safety strap when equipped as a factory soft top truck. The dash eye bolt for the front end of the strap was not installed on hard top vehicles since it would interfere with the hard door closing. You should also have the two bolts in the bend of the rear corner inside the tub rail and two more bolts on the top of the rear wheelhouse to secure the rear soft top bow mounts.
HTH,
Will
 
Great rig and it looks like you are well on your way. I jumped in, against advice, and did a frame off as well. No regrets, but mine was way worse than yours! I had my 77 torn down in a couple of months and to the body shop. Seven months later it is back from paint and body and I am putting it all back together. It might be too late, but take pictures of everything from all different angles. It was simply amazing what I forgot over time and a picture saved me.

While it was getting painted I rebuilt everything. I went through each Ziploc and cleaned and polished every part. I sent a bunch of stuff off to get replated. Search out Coolerman(on MUD) for the proper electrical connectors, he has everything. I urge you to buy OEM whenever it is still available, even if hurts the wallet. Especially rubber. There is a ton of cheap China rubber repro stuff out there. Racer65 has found/made a lot of good stuff that is no longer available. Tons of great restoration threads on MUD. Start a build thread or keep on posting pictures here, we love pictures.
 
tlc762 said:
I think the larger bolt to which you are referring was used to secure the rear anchor for the door safety strap when equipped as a factory soft top truck. The dash eye bolt for the front end of the strap was not installed on hard top vehicles since it would interfere with the hard door closing. You should also have the two bolts in the bend of the rear corner inside the tub rail and two more bolts on the top of the rear wheelhouse to secure the rear soft top bow mounts.
HTH,
Will
Click to expand...

Cruisers during this time period were set up to run a hard top or soft top. The holes would be along the top of the top to mount twists for the soft top o hard top models. Soft top model would have fixed nuts for the hard top sides. The top of the fender well would have four bolts to mount the bracket. Think it was during 1969 when the jump seats went from two bolts at every anchor point to just one when the soft top bracket went from four to two bolts.
 
On the body side hinge removal... Yes, it is possible NO, it will not be easy! If you have a 12 YO daughter, it helps as you will need small hands. Ratcheting box end wrenches help. Getting them back on is twice the fun!
 
While waiting for the frame to be sandblasted, I started taking bites out of the engine. Took the two manifolds apart to check the condition of the heat riser valve. Good news is it turns nicely on the spring, but it's missing the counterweight. Tempted to rebuild it, but what do most of you do with this old '67 F engine? In Seattle area, so occasionally cold mornings, but no North Dakota here!

IMG_0991.JPG


Also, I noticed a small crack on the intake manifold at the heat riser joint (visible above on the left side of the joint surface, above the spring). Should this worry me? Who knows how long it's been like this. Picture below shows the entire length of it (at least on the surface).


IMG_0997.JPG


And, third, what do F engines from '67 do about this gasket? Make one from the blank material available from Remflex?

On to the fun stuff... bead blasted a first batch of parts this morning- painting black bits starts tomorrow!

Thanks

IMG_1011.JPG
 
Hopefully, eventually I'll get a stock carb, though Roger at SOR wished me luck. For now, I'll stick the Weber back on. But I will fix the heat control valve. Ultimate goal with this thing is just to think that my friend would've been proud of it. And me too.
 
Keep your eyes open for a stock carb. It'll work much better than a webber and that truck deserves it.

Also, you can likely find a good condition manifold. People dump them for motor replacements all the time..
 
Slow and steady. Thought I'd share today's picture. Probably going to have to stop at this point and go find some more green stuff to exchange for services and merchandise. But I wonder whether I should work a bit more to get the motor running- otherwise it's going to have sat for more than a year by the time the body is done. Of course I read here about plenty of rigs found rotting in a field for 20 years, and with a new battery and some gas and oil, off they go. Thoughts? I did get some fogging oil in the cylinders for what it's worth.


IMG_1329.JPG
 
Well I haven't been good about updating this thread, but have posted questions as we've gone along. Now that the mad dash to the finish line is on (with some known slowdowns- chrome, the roof), I thought I'd post some pix... So happy with the body and paint work that our friend did for us. It's like a new kit to put together.

IMG_2175.JPG
IMG_2178.JPG
IMG_2180.JPG
IMG_2183.JPG
IMG_2186.JPG
 
emac said:
Beautiful FJ40 engine porn!
Click to expand...

I'm really p***** at you. I just spit my last sip of Jack Daniels all over the screen. Ah, porn indeed. Even the wife got off looking at that beautiful FJ40 six banger. After looking at it, she says to me, "Why can't ours look like that?"
 
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