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Joined
May 24, 2016
Threads
88
Messages
358
Location
Bainbridge Island, Washington
Hi Everyone,
My best friend since 7th grade recently passed away (far too soon) and so his family gave me his 1967 FJ40 hardtop- (I guess that makes it a 'V'). Pictures below. He was the second owner, having bought it around 1984 from a family friend, a doctor who kept it garaged at the small airport at Mammoth Lakes, California, to get to his ski cabin. Included with the FJ are a few boxes of new parts from Specter Off Road- bumpers, gaskets, window/door seals, seat cushions, headliner, etc. He intended to restore it, so I'm going to finish the job for him. Going to need a ton of advice from those of you who have gone before into this insanity... and I go willingly, albeit ignorant of so many details.

I have an acquaintance who restores cars to Concours-quality who has offered some guidance and his painting expertise. We will be doing a frame-off job, but not rebuilding everything. His mechanic checked the engine (original F135) and felt it was solid with good compression, perhaps needing a little top end work (valve guides). 3-on-the-tree transmission also passed muster. So that was a relief. Also, they recommend not bothering to switch to disc brakes, as I don't intend to drive this thing too hard or too far. I like the idea of keeping most things original, though I probably will keep (and camouflage) the electronic ignition! Or get the one that goes inside the distributor. The one thing my wife would like would be headrests on the front seats, for safety. I like the original seats, but see her point. Anybody see headrests added to the stock seats. Or are there 'period' looking seats with headrests?

Today my wife and I started removing things in the interior and marveling at how simple it all is. Looking forward the this journey.

Thanks

Brian & Susan Berdan
Bainbridge Island, Washington.

ps. I would love to know who the great FJ mechanics are in the Seattle area. If there's someone on the west side of Puget Sound (Kitsap Peninsula), that'd be ideal.

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Welcome to MUD Brian and Susan!

Your best bet is www.torfab.com
It is my unbiased opinion that they are the best mechanics in the area, located in Everett.

BTW very nice rig!!
 
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As a new 40 owner myself I highly recommend driving the thing for a few months before diving in to the restoration. It looks to be in great shape so maybe get a tune up and work on body on frame fixes to familiarize yourself with the truck. I vote for originality as much as possible.
 
Well there you go,

Welcome to the Madness !!!!!


:cheers:
 
Thanks for the welcomes... and I will check out Tor's shop. Spotcruiser, are you on the Seattle side of the Sound or my side? I'd be happy to meet up and get immersed in this beast.
 
PM sent. :)
 
I will agree with others here and say drive it. Drive it any chance you get! Discover for yourself what made your friend love these machines. I promise it won't take long! These are wonderfully simple and amazingly hardy vehicles and you would miss out on a lot of smiles diving into a restoration too soon. Sorry about your friend but you have an excellent reminder of what made him happy for years. You will find no shortage of help and advise on this forum!
 
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X5 on drive it as is for awhile before diving into a restoration.
A restoration is a long term expensive project during which you have no use of the vehicle.
Mine took almost 3 years and about $11K.

Too many of these trucks get dismantled for restoration and never get put back together.
I recently bought one as a pile of parts after passing up 2 others in the same condition.
 
Nice rig!! Welcome Brian and Susan! I am very sorry to hear about your friend's passing. You have a star in heaven.

I agree that you should try to become familiar with her before you do anything extensive. I have owned my FJ40 for almost three years and am by no means mechanically adept. This site is a treasure trove of very knowledgeable folks who are willing to teach. Because of people her on MUD and the posts, I have learned a lot about my rig.

Welcome to the MUDness
 
that is a fantastic 40!

I would be very tempted to leave the body alone and just work on the mechanicas, rubbers, etc...

if you ever feel like making a trip down to Gig Harbor, your more than welcome, I have a few early 40's(my 65 is the same color) and 45's. getting ready to redo all the drums brakes on my 64 FJ45LV, which would be the same as you have. Also got a few more latter models.

cute dog :)
 
btw, headrest wont really add much in the way of safety......once the harpoon steering column impales you to the seat back.....your head won't care what it bounced into :)
 
welcome to the madness - TOR fab is highly recommended, I also know of other very good mechanics. While he doesn't do FJ40s, Brian Hall at Defender's NW (he's just at the west end of the Narrows bridge) is good people and anyone he recommends is golden. If you're on this side of the water, NuMark Automotive is a friend of mine and the only mechanic I recommend... which is saying something since I know lots of mechanics. I've never used TOR because I have NuMark - so please don't take that last line as anything against TOR.
 
Brian is good people......especially for a Rover guy ;) I swing by(in a Cruiser) his shop fairly often and always enjoy talking to him, even caught him installing a roof top tent on a FJ Cruiser. I really like the way he runs his outfit.

I have a small shop in GH that is now doing all my work,father-son outfit, old school ways, not a cruiser specialist......but I am training them. I may not be the best wrencher around but I am really good at figuring out whats wrong and being able to explain how to fix it.

welcome to the madness - TOR fab is highly recommended, I also know of other very good mechanics. While he doesn't do FJ40s, Brian Hall at Defender's NW (he's just at the west end of the Narrows bridge) is good people and anyone he recommends is golden. If you're on this side of the water, NuMark Automotive is a friend of mine and the only mechanic I recommend... which is saying something since I know lots of mechanics. I've never used TOR because I have NuMark - so please don't take that last line as anything against TOR.
 
Wow, what a great bunch of responses. Seems overriding that I should keep it rolling for a while. But I am reasonably familiar with it, since my friend had it up here for the whole 20 years I've been here. And I have a good chunk of time right now and a willing and accomplished accomplice (Walt Johnsen). He's been restoring cars for years (and winning Pebble Beach awards) and I'm not sure how much longer he's going to keep his shop here going. So I feel the stars were aligned when I met him recently. Funny though- his body guy's first question was, "are you sure you want to lose that patina?" I know what he means, but I'll collect another 50 years of patina, and it'll keep rolling. And the bolts are only going to get harder to take off.

Landpimp- I'd love to come down and see your Toys. My wife and I sail around the area a bit- we'll make GH a destination.

Thanks everyone.
 
So a month has gone by and I am down to the frame and surrounded by boxes of ziplock bags of parts. Happy to find that the rust was what I originally saw- rear wheel wells and the back sill above the bumper. My craigslist air impact wrench is my new best friend now; only broke a dozen or so bolts along the way (mostly before getting the wrench) and they all drilled out okay. The only thing I couldn't get off was the upper driver side door hinge, the one on the body- how the heck did the builders get a wrench in there for all four bolts?! Tempted to leave it on, but it'd be nice since it's the only thing that hasn't come apart and I'd really like to end up with zero rust... for a few months :)

While I was getting the body apart, I wondered about the bolt that is just behind the doors at the top of the tub- the bigger of these two. I see it in pictures of other Fj's but don't see anything attached to them.

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I've been recording a time-lapse video of this process, a frame every minute. Here's a bit of it...

Dropbox - FJ40timelapse2.mov

Started to wash the frame and motor today (Gunk Super Concentrate and MOS Solvent 1:6 ratio, Purple Power Industrial Strength Degreaser and a good power washer- that should do it!). Happy to see some shiny metal start to peak through. Plan is to straighten the frame a touch from where my buddy Chris got whacked from behind, then on to sandblasting, both 'out of house' jobs. Though of course first I have to pull the engine and patiently wait for Torfab in Everett to do some minimal work on it (valve guides and seals and...?) - he's booked till October, but no rush, that's for sure.

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So a month to get it taken apart- my mentor in this project, Walt, says figure 5 months to put it together. I had to laugh at him- there's no way I can do this in five months! But it's been a blast so far, learning how this thing is put together.
 

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