new shop

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looking at starting to build a new shop this spring... my question is LC related.... when my 40 is done it will be on a 4" lift with 33 on it... I want to keep the hard top on it...

will this thing fit in a regular garage door or does a guy want to figure on putting a bigger door in there...
 
If you are building a shop, put at least a 10' door in regardless of how tall your cruiser is. You'll be much happier with the higher clearance for many reasons. $.02

Good luck! :cheers:
 
I have 35's and about 4" lift and the top of my cage just touches going in and out of our 7' door. I would have put in an 8' door or more if we had built the house. For now, a standard 7' door is enough but one day you'll want 35's and wish you had spent the little extra for a taller door. Do it now while it's cheap and easy. ...Steve
 
I would love the heated floor... that definatly will not be in my budget... This is not the house I will be at forever... But I want to stay here for 5-10 more years to build more equity... then I want to build the shop of my dreams with heated floor.... Actually the prices of the doors are not that much for a bigger one... I was surprised once I went and looked... few hundred more for a bigger one... not a big deal in the scheme of things...

A.P.
 
You might be surprised at the low cost of just putting the radiant floor heat tubing in while you're pouring the slab. One quick look on the web showed 600 feet of 3/8 tube for $190.

You could do all your valving, heat source, etc later as fund become available. Even if you don't finish it, it will make a nice selling point when that time comes too.

Jeff


PS Just incase you don't know, lots of people are using domestic hot water heaters to run their in-floor heat. Also, go the the 10ft door. :)
 
I am glad you mentioned that about the heat... I am going to talk to someone on this.... it is really the way to go...

I am thinking on building a building that is 26x30 think that is going to be too big for the water heater...
 
Aaron, do the floor heat. My garage is 32x32 and I used 900 lineal feet of polybutyl(I think) just zip-tied to the rebar. Mine uses a 100,000btu boiler which is waay overkill, but I had the boiler and it was almost new. Much easier to use a couple of hot water tanks and a small B&G pump. To keep it simple, you could just use the thermostat on the water heater and put the pump on an intermittent timer.


Ed
 
Ed-

how close do you run the pipes together??? My dad is actually going on a snowmoble trip this weekend with one of his friends that puts this stuff in so he is going to ask him a bunch of questions for me...

as far as cheaper to heat the floor is way less expensive right??
 
also are people using more than one water heater to do this as you stated Ed or is one usually enough... I mean if it is -40 like it was a few time this winter I dont care if I am out there in 70 degree temp....
 
One linear foot per square foot was the rule of themb on my install. The material came in 300' rolls, so we did three "coils" so that the feed spirals in on 2' centers and loops in the middle then goes back out between the feed-side pipe. Sounds complicated, but it isn't. No connections below the floor, a manifold for feed and return. The reason they used the polybutyl was that is gives up only a certain amount of heat for every-so-many feet of run.
If your feet are warm, you feel warm. Plus when you raise the garage door, you almost immediately recapture the heat when you close it. Once the slab is warm, it does not take that much energy to keep it warm.

Make sense?


Ed
 
kind of... I think if I could see it done it would be easy to understand... I am trying to find pic on the internet but have not found any...
 

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