New pig day

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Other work included testing some electrical systems and removing the remote oil filter setup. Oh, and I removed/simplified the battery cables and installed normal terminals so I can use a standard top post battery.
Wow. What in the cornbread-hell is up with all that wiring? Is any of it running power? If so, that should get taken care of ASAP.
Not sure if you’re planning on keeping the dual battery setup - running the cable inside of a hose across that section of upper firewall was a quick and easy way to get from point A to B. The unfortunate part is that everywhere those self-tappers were run in to hold the p-clamps is now a potential water leak into the footwell of the cab.

As for the heater hose shut-off valve, maybe someone here has one in their parts stash they’d be willing to sell.
Most of the PO wiring is done pretty well and loomed. The ugly loose wires are temporary jumpers I installed to verify the truck will start and run. It was wired for AFI and the AFI-only DUI distributor so no wiring exists for the stock stuff. Again, not permanent (nor is the antifreeze jug being used as a fuel tank, ha!--harder to see in the photos, perhaps).

Regarding the loom clamps, agreed and will all be fixed. One thing I do appreciate about whoever built this thing is that they actually used factory bolt locations wherever possible so the vast majority of this stuff is non-invasive. Hats off to the builder, they had to be on this forum at one time or another.

I have a complete factory harness from a '76 FJ55 that I would like to install eventually, along with a battery tray, the heaters, and a bunch of other things. Since this stuff is there and seems to be working, the plan is to get it running and driving before anything else. I find the easiest way to stall a project is to take it all apart immediately so the goal here is more "rolling restoration".

As for the heater hose shut-off valve, maybe someone here has one in their parts stash they’d be willing to sell.

I'd be in the market for the stock stuff here I believe, yeah.

Not sure if you’re planning on keeping the dual battery setup

The dual battery stuff is going to be removed, as is the AFI harness (shown hanging over the fender in the photo), so that should clean things up a lot.
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Removed the distributor tonight for a better refurbishment.

Last time I had cleaned it up a lot and installed a new cap and rotor. It was originally a vacuum retard unit and the breaker plate was seized due to rusted bearings.

The body and shaft are good though, so I got some parts from @4Cruisers to convert it to vacuum advance, rebuild the breaker plate, and replace missing and worn parts.

Turned out nicely. Tomorrow it will get installed along with new plugs, so the ignition system will be pretty much new.





Nice work!
Thank you. Even after my first round of cleaning it was pretty rough. The breaker plate bearings were complete junk, which was probably the worst of it (although the vacuum retard was disabled so moot until this upgrade to advance).

The flyweights were also replaced due to bad bushings.

Note the photo shows the wrong way to replace the ball bearings—I found it is easier to grease the breaker plate and place them there rather than in the race as shown.



Pretty sure I’ve never been that far into a dizzy, good tech.

I’m sure this will be in my future as no advance was happening on my 2F when it was running.
Got a lot done today. In detail:
  • Distributor installed and static timed
  • Replaced upper radiator flexi-hose nonsense with the correct molded hose
  • Radiator was missing the drain assembly, but guess what? I had a spare block drain (the whole works with the brass inside, you need 19mm to get these) and it fits the bottom tank just fine!
  • Installed vac advance line
  • Installed @FJ40Jim ’s air pump idler pulley kit—I won’t run a 2F without one, this way you don’t need to depend on the alternator to run the water pump and get more belt wrap
  • Made a sheet metal piece out of 22ga and beat a curve into it, then hose clamped it around the header collector—exhaust is quiet as can be, I’m shocked how well that worked (there was a hole for an O2 bung rough cut into it)
  • Started it and ran it without the valve cover on to verify top end oiling
  • Ran it up to temp, or at least until I was choking on fumes and the thermostat housing was about 140 on my infrared thermometer
  • Verified I have a good brake pedal and power assist
  • Tested all lights—everything works, although reverse is on a dash switch for whatever reason
Pleased with how it’s coming together. Should be driving it this spring no sweat at this rate.



Pretty sure I’ve never been that far into a dizzy, good tech.

I’m sure this will be in my future as no advance was happening on my 2F when it was running.
Thanks. I’ve got more photos of the inside below the breaker plate I believe—I took the flyweights off and replaced them, which is as far as I felt it needed to be torn down as there was no shaft play.

Glad to discuss further in case anyone has questions (not that I’m the expert but I’ve had them apart at any rate).
Buying belts for these things is not all that straightforward.

Here is the belt you need if you’re adding an air pump idler pulley kit to a 1978 2F (I would think they’re all the same but … 2F belts). This size would have worked on my 79 as well.

Sorted out a throttle cable today.

Fairly simple, easy to modify if I feel like it later. Using a factory (I believe, it was on the truck when I bought it) F155 cable, the one without the barbell on the end, just bare cable. Found some miscellaneous throttle linkage parts that came with a couple trucks and figured this out.

Had to modify the return spring bracket to clear the brake master, otherwise it bolts on.

It was helpful to have another carb to use to mock it up first.




Finished up in the garage by installing a new fan and the correct shroud. Painted it in the bathtub paint booth after a member sent it to me from a ‘76 truck. The Aisin fan is the correct 8-blade I found very affordably on RockAuto.

The old fan had some pieces missing and the shroud was lost to the ages. I like running the proper cooling system parts.


Got the fuel system connected correctly with the tank again. The cap looks newer and what was coming out of the fuel pump didn't look terrible. There was also no foul smell coming from the tank with the cap removed.

Cleaned out the lines as best I could with compressed air, poured 5 gallons in and added some SeaFoam for good measure. It runs from the tank after some priming.

No photos of that. All I really had to show for it was me covered in gas. I was avoiding that job because it always ends up that way but I am glad it is done.
The ear was stripped on the alternator that came with the truck.

You can use a thin nut on the back side and make it work with the factory adjuster bar and bracket, but I like a cleaner solution so I heli-coiled the ear and cleaned up the bolt threads. Good as new.

Looking more and more like a proper engine bay.




Next up is the carb I got (in a box) with the truck.

Got it broken down and started the Berrymans soaking process. I like to leave things in at least overnight, so generally at least two passes.

Small parts like the jets and such go in old medicine bottles which I fill with Berrymans.


Came with the truck. Got a deal on Fram heavy duty filters so one is going back on too.

I’ve changed more oil than most on a lot of different vehicles (worked in a garage for years). Never seen a filter failure. When mine blows up you can say you told me so ;)
(The above was mostly in jest, of course. I have seen the photos of the cheap cardboard Fram opened up; I believe the heavy duty model is different from this one and I feel confident running one at $1 a pop on close out)

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