New pig day

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

All good, my bro owned a 6 bay shop till he retired, he always hated them so I just stay away.
 
All good, my bro owned a 6 bay shop till he retired, he always hated them so I just stay away.
Totally, see prior post clarifying I was just joking with you a little ;)

But I am fairly certain the model I ordered is much better than these economy models that take so much flak online. RockAuto had them at $1 each the other day, which I could not resist given the local store wants at least $10 per for a decent Wix or similar.
 
The ear was stripped on the alternator that came with the truck.
Looking more and more like a proper engine bay.
Looking good. Reminds me of how i wince a little each time I open the hood of my 1969 with a transplanted 1985 2F. I went with a Denso one wire alternator…which is great but the base wouldn’t allow the use of the alt bracket nor tension bracket. Had to rig one up. Looks fair but all I see when I look is “not the real thing.” But then I realize most of my engine bay is not the real thing anymore.
 
Looking good. Reminds me of how i wince a little each time I open the hood of my 1969 with a transplanted 1985 2F. I went with a Denso one wire alternator…which is great but the base wouldn’t allow the use of the alt bracket nor tension bracket. Had to rig one up. Looks fair but all I see when I look is “not the real thing.” But then I realize most of my engine bay is not the real thing anymore.
I’m with you. One goal of this project is to return the truck to mostly stock form. It won’t happen all at once but I have purchased, for example, a complete factory wiring harness and dash from a ‘76.

Getting it to driving condition is foremost, of course, before that will happen.
 
Did a bunch of wiring and general underhood cleanup today.

The coil and distributor are more or less permanently connected, at least with this wiring harness.

Extra wiring, battery tray, FI harness and so forth removed.

Next tasks are to finish the carb rebuild and install the voltage regular so I have a charging system.

283D7C2F-09AB-45DD-BC4A-9E416A7AA80D.jpeg


795937C1-1B2E-404A-A626-CE97061CFF52.jpeg
 
One note I will add here is that the coil you use matters in terms of securely connecting the coil wire to the distributor cap. Of the coils I have only the Nippondenso has that reassuring snap when you hook it up.

The others (aftermarket) were just wrong. Poor depth and/or the wire boot was too tight and it kept falling off.
 
Getting the carb back together, Hoping to be done this weekend.

Made an attempt at getting the charging system together only to burn up the regulator. It was well-used when I got it, and had some evidence of moisture inside, so perhaps that’s it? I wired it slightly differently than factory to account for the custom harness but I plan to change that around a bit when I get the new regulator next week. It might even be solid state, at least based on the RockAuto photos.

40EFA05C-8A16-4504-9350-EFE744B6E0F0.jpeg


EB780A1B-3E08-4913-B96E-35C2016E033F.jpeg
 
Carb finished. Chalk up another one… it’ll get installed and tested some night this week I think.

D6944C40-70BD-4876-91CA-8E362B0836D5.jpeg
 
Rebuilt carb installed. The truck runs so much better. You get what you pay for with knockoff carbs (I got this one with another truck and it’s fine for verifying that an engine runs, but that’s as far as I’d go with one).

BE9B245A-8ACB-4786-A100-B812F5C1B7B4.jpeg
 
Gave the valve cover a deep clean and “surface protectant” treatment. Took the opportunity to replace the gasket and grommets. Substantial improvement.

2FBBAFCD-AD20-4FA1-AB5A-6033F4D5487B.jpeg
 
Bought an air cleaner for a 60 series 2F by mistake, but it was a good deal and they’re close enough I figured I could make it work.

Research indicated that the valve cover and air cleaner for the 81+ 2F are shorter than on the 40/55 series 2F (unsure how the 60 series lines up with the 40 series in this respect but I can say my 82 FJ40 had a valve cover that looked like the 60 series version). Also, the air cleaner mounts and oil fill are in different locations on the valve covers.

Main thing is to get it up above the valve cover more than it sits normally, so I bought a carb spacer from City Racer and some threaded rod in M6x1.0 for a carb stud.

I modified the valve cover brackets that I had on hand (rear one is—I think—for the 78 2F, front one came with the air cleaner).

I drilled a new hole in the rear and welded a nut inside the air cleaner, then plugged the other hole with a bolt. I cut and modified the front bracket and welded on a new lower section I made from bar stock. Forgive the welds, this is a new flux unit I have as a backup and this is my first outing with it. I’m also no expert.

I managed to get it all to clear the fuel line, oil cap and front bracket mount bolt. It’s tight but it works and looks pretty decent.

Still need to finish the bracket that bolts to the block above the distributor but that should be straightforward enough.

IMG_3733.jpeg


IMG_3734.jpeg


IMG_3736.jpeg


IMG_3737.jpeg


IMG_3740.jpeg
 
A couple more shots.

IMG_3738.jpeg


IMG_3739.jpeg


IMG_3741.jpeg


IMG_3742.jpeg
 
Another shot of the front bracket. Finished grinding a relief for the oil fill and dressed the edges a bit.

IMG_3746.jpeg
 
Finishing up throttle linkage MKII.

It needed to be low to clear the air cleaner and I wanted something more durable as well as easier to install/adjust. Bicycle brake cable 90 degree tube seems to work nicely here. Needs final grinding and paint.

IMG_3769.jpeg


IMG_3768.jpeg


IMG_3767.jpeg
 
Bicycle cable. Earning those extra MacGyver points.
That's the idea, ha.

A few more details: the throttle cable itself is Toyota, the plain wire version. The only point the cable is supported at the bracket is where the end of the 90 cable guide tube passes through the last, smaller cantilever on the bracket, which is how the bike manufacturers run brake cables.

The brackets are custom, and the double cantilever allows me to get the cable aligned parallel to the accelerator pump actuator rod and directly in line with the cable end hardware attached to the carb. Sits nice and low, and I am really happy about the way it all worked out. Simple and durable, and all the wear parts are readily available. Also very easy to set up and adjust, which I mentioned.

I will probably add some cable ties to get the overall cable route established a little better once it is all painted etc. for final assembly.
 
Did you find the Toyota fender badge to be pure gold before or after sanding? Might need to weigh the spare set I have. :D
Now painted black to deter theft. Good catch.

IMG_3778.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom