New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

90% of the time, do you use your big sockets on:

  • Big nuts

    Votes: 4 80.0%

  • Installing and removing seals and bearings

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

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I got the accelerator pedal link through to the carburetor linkage sorted out. I just stubbed everything into place and tested that the secondary opens when the pedal is fully depressed.

20241230_183400021_iOS.jpg


I tested the stubbed off black wires next to temperature sender wires and they are live when the ignition is on. I connected them to the fuel solenoid and when the key is turned I hear a satifying "click".

20241230_190735527_iOS.jpg


Next up is trying to sort out a fuel line. I picked up a hose barb from @65swb45, I should have grabbed two. I need to figure out the thread pitch on the fuel pump or the carb so I can run a new fuel line.
 
I researched the fuel lines and found this post by @Coolerman. Making Fuel Lines - https://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/2C.htm
(BTW, I am a "computer guy" by trade. If anyone needs a hand backing up, mirroring, or modernizing their web site...feel free to ask. I would hate for resources like this to get lost or deleted.)

Looks like the carb and fuel pump use 1/8 BSPT fittings. The 13mm x 1.5 union nuts (compression fitting) are confusing. I haven't been able to find a better specification than the one Coolerman provides (thread pitch, etc). I was hoping to eventually make a new pump to carb line using the 5/16" hard line. I see the nuts available from $OR for $8?

I am going to try and bend the existing line first. If that fails I'll try using the old connectors on new hard line or run new rubber just to get it all running first.
 
Last edited:
After reviewing the FSM I am going to work on getting the new carb set up today. This carb has more adjustments than my old one-barrel Rochester (or the fancy funnel as @RevISK called it). With all vacuum lines connected and timing set:
  1. Set "lean drop" idle by setting max RPM with idle mixture screw then idle speed screw. Adjust each until no further rise in RPM. Shoot for 690 RPM.
  2. Screw in idle mixture screw to set idle to 650.
  3. Check accelerator performance and return to idle.
  4. Set fast idle to 1800 RPM.
  5. Set the Throttle Positioner speed to 1200 RPM.
I am sure I'll have questions. Will report back when I complete the work above.
 
MatthewMcD said:
I researched the fuel lines and found this post by @Coolerman. Making Fuel Lines - https://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/2C.htm
(BTW, I am a "computer guy" by trade. If anyone needs a hand backing up, mirroring, or modernizing their web site...feel free to ask. I would hate for resources like this to get lost or deleted.)

Looks like the carb and fuel pump use 1/8 BSPT fittings. The 13mm x 1.5 union nuts (compression fitting) are confusing. I haven't been able to find a better specification than the one Coolerman provides (thread pitch, etc). I was hoping to eventually make a new pump to carb line using the 5/16" hard line. I see the nuts available from $OR for $8?

I am going to try and bend the existing line first. If that fails I'll try using the old connectors on new hard line or run new rubber just to get it all running first.
Click to expand...
The compression fittings, Toyota calls “olives” 96395-71400. The nut is 90402-13041. Both of these are still available and a couple bucks each from Toyota.

The air cleaner to carb clamp is 90460-82046 but looks no longer available.
 
I idle my 2F at +/- 600 rpm. After tune-up, the idle will be all over the place, due to changes in air temp, and vacuum; it seems to race with cold air. Static timed to 7 DBTC like all F/2F. Valves in check, etc.

I currently have a non-usa 2F carb, and an F-engine non-usa vac advance distributor. Timing, and idle speed on carb is with is done with the vac hose capped - it might or might not matter, depending on the presence of a ported vacuum signal or not. Your '73-ish carb was fitted with an advance port?

I'm surprised that you found a carb with a solid choke-breaker diaphragm. Both of mine move, but, both of mine leak vacuum. So, aside from fast-idle there are adjustments for the throttle-positioner, and choke breaker as well - not that I thinnk that they actually need adjustments. However, the amount of choke-butterfly that opens, with manifold vacuum pulling this diaphragm, when the choke is fully pulled, can make the difference between 100% success starting it w/out doing any more than pulling the choke, and turning the key when it is cold.
 
Last edited:
Skreddy said:
The compression fittings, Toyota calls “olives” 96395-71400. The nut is 90402-13041. Both of these are still available and a couple bucks each from Toyota.

The air cleaner to carb clamp is 90460-82046 but looks no longer available.
Click to expand...
Thank You! I'm going to bend up a pretty new fuel line. Those parts will come in handy!

M
 
Grayscale said:
I idle my 2F at +/- 600 rpm. After tune-up, the idle will be all over the place, due to changes in air temp, and vacuum; it seems to race with cold air. Static timed to 7 DBTC like all F/2F. Valves in check, etc.

I currently have a non-usa 2F carb, and an F-engine non-usa vac advance distributor. Timing, and idle speed on carb is with is done with the vac hose capped - it might or might not matter, depending on the presence of a ported vacuum signal or not. Your '73-ish carb was fitted with an advance port?

I'm surprised that you found a carb with a solid choke-breaker diaphragm. Both of mine move, but, both of mine leak vacuum. So, aside from fast-idle there are adjustments for the throttle-positioner, and choke breaker as well - not that I thinnk that they actually need adjustments. However, the amount of choke-butterfly that opens, with manifold vacuum pulling this diaphragm, when the choke is fully pulled, can make the difference between 100% success starting it w/out doing any more than pulling the choke, and turning the key when it is cold.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I did set all the timing with the vacuum advance capped. This carb does have an advance port.

The carb is direct from Mark at Mark's Off Road. I have him to thank for the quality of the rebuild.

Speaking of the choke breaker, is that the same as the Throttle Positioner? You said your choke breaker "moves". Mine "jumps" when I apply vacuum. :) The thing I don't quite get about adjusting the Throttle Positioner is the instructions say "The Throttle Positioning adjusting screw should hook on to the throttle valve lever." Do they mean that the screw should catch the throttle and hold it open at 1200 RPM when released?

1735771131483.png

1735771162475.png
 
Well...you may have gathered that my truck is running on the new carb. It's running GREAT! It's quieter and smoother than ever. I dialed in the carb and the performance is amazing, no more off-idle hesitation, it's very perky for a tractor. :)

I ran it around the block a few times and it is running great.

In setting the carb I started with the Idle Mixture screw out 2 turns and then crept it out as long as the RPMs kept climbing. It topped out at 3 turns. I set the idle at 600ish and verified the fast idle setting. I wasn't quite clear on the Throttle Positioner instructions, but now that I wrote out the question, I think I understand how it is supposed to work.

I'll drive it this way for a while to get a feel for the carb. The truck is running (and sounding) great.
 
The choke breaker has two rods connected to it. One of those rods moves the choke butterfly (opens it). It should be fine from Mark's, and probably needs nothing to be adjusted.

So, the Throttle Positioner should make the warm 2F idle at 1200 before it is triggered by the choke breaker. That is why the FSM has you disconnect the vac hose when you do this tune-up setting.
 
Skreddy said:
The compression fittings, Toyota calls “olives” 96395-71400. The nut is 90402-13041. Both of these are still available and a couple bucks each from Toyota.

The air cleaner to carb clamp is 90460-82046 but looks no longer available.
Click to expand...
What are those "olives" made of? Valyrian Steel (or in this case brass)? 5/16 brass compression sleeves at the Auto Parts store are $1.18.
1735775480640.png
 
Grayscale said:
The choke breaker has two rods connected to it. One of those rods moves the choke butterfly (opens it). It should be fine from Mark's, and probably needs nothing to be adjusted.

So, the Throttle Positioner should make the warm 2F idle at 1200 before it is triggered by the choke breaker. That is why the FSM has you disconnect the vac hose when you do this tune-up setting.
Click to expand...
Are they both operated by the vacuum valve on the carb? This is a shot of the side of my carb. There are rods going to the throttle and the choke.

20250101_175552732_iOS.jpg
 
MatthewMcD said:
Here's the FSM page I am referring to:
View attachment 3805465
Click to expand...
Yes, I've seen that page. Just another time when I disagree with the FSM. I'm not going to idle my cold engine at 1800 RPM. My fast idle might be 1200 RPM and I don't keep it there for more than a few seconds. I start nudging in the choke knob, a hair at a time, to get a comfortable idle speed.
 
Both the Choke Breaker and the Throttle Positioner are operated by the vac at the carb base. I'm not sure about a "vacuum valve." Those links can be bent, but, the adjustment for the Throttle Positioner is the rpm-adjusting screw, and the Choke Breaker is set with the link so that it opens the choke butterfly 38 deg. from bore, according to factory specs.

Basically, you probably need to do nothing other than make sure that the adjustment screw tip is riding on the throttle valve lever, and make the engine run at the right rpm.

@Pighead It isn't an idle speed, it is an amount of throttle opened when the starter is cranking. The FSM has you open it to a certain amount, and that is that number on a warm motor.
 
Pighead said:
Yes, I've seen that page. Just another time when I disagree with the FSM. I'm not going to idle my cold engine at 1800 RPM. My fast idle might be 1200 RPM and I don't keep it there for more than a few seconds. I start nudging in the choke knob, a hair at a time, to get a comfortable idle speed.
Click to expand...
Oh! I do the same, after it starts, I bump it down as long as it's not starving. I am not in a hurry to get rolling when the engine is cold.
 
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