New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy" (1 Viewer)

[LSUfj]

Thanks for clarifying regarding the bolt/nut orientation. So nut on top on driver side. Same with passenger? I’ll delete the misinformation above.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks for clarifying regarding the bolt/nut orientation. So nut on top on driver side. Same with passenger? I’ll delete the misinformation above.

Please re-read my post carefully.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Just popped in to tell you that I dropped off your parts at UPS this morning, and to say thanks for the insulator. Maybe in spring I will get a chance to install it on Ruftoys and post a pic or two.

Thanks for that.

 

[MatthewMcD]

And the saddle of the passenger mount gets wallowed out by the HEAD of the bolt facing down.

I don't see washers on the top in the images above. Are you saying the passenger side bolt head rests directly on the insulator with no washer and it is upside down in the image too?

 

[Grayscale]

I pretty sure that I employed a washer between the head of the bolt and the insulator. Washers are your friend when working with bolts. There is not enough surface area under the bolt to not dig into the insulator. I see SOR has their passenger-side bolt using a washer below but not above.

It all seems wrong, to me. The original bolts were more like the material that the frame is made of, steel (they say 5 on top). The replacements, they are medium carbon steel and underwent heat treatment. Although greater in ultimate yield strength, higher Grade (SAE) or Class (JIS/metric), are known to be more subject to fatigue. Cyclical loads, loosening of the bolt by eventual compression of the insulator, and normal automotive corrosion will foster stress cracks to propagate, over time.

 

[65swb45]

The passenger side bolt goes DIRECTLY into a small recess in the ear that is often wallowed out from having been left loose too long.

It is interesting that SOR uses the same incorrect exploded diagram, but provides colorized pictures of the correct orientation. I guess a lot more people than I realized struggle with the concept that form follows function. And it certainly doesn't help when the reference materials are wrong. It's one of the reasons the dealerships are so gunshy about selling parts for our old trucks.

A dealership here in SoCal called me for a used engine & told me that a customer was going to pay them to remove a V8 and go back to stock. I straightup laughed at the service manager, told him it was basically suicidal, but I had a proposal for him.

I told him that I would send him a list of parts to ship me once a week, and supply the ones he couldn't get anymore, and if he was willing to go along with that, I would assemble the engine as it would have been at the factory, ready to drop in...for $800 labor! He jumped at the chance.

This included hanging the rear mount cushions off the factory bolts (still available then) in the correct orientation.

 

[65swb45]

I pretty sure that I employed a washer between the head of the bolt and the insulator. Washers are your friend when working with bolts. There is not enough surface area under the bolt to not dig into the insulator. I see SOR has their bolt uses a washer below but not above.

It all seems wrong, to me. The original bolts were more like the material that the frame is made of, steel (they say 5 on top). The replacements, they are medium carbon steel and underwent heat treatment. Although greater in ultimate yield strength, higher Grade (SAE) or Class (JIS/metric), are known to be more subject to fatigue. Cyclical loads, loosening of the bolt by eventual compression of the insulator, and normal automotive corrosion will foster stress cracks to propagate, over time.

Agreed. There is a higher level of logic in your thinking than in the actual design of the system.

The bolts were indeed installed without a washer. The bulk of the bolts I removed over the last 40 years ( yes, it has been 40 years) were rounded on the underside, not unlike the dome on a slave cylinder pushrod. And they wore a corresponding depression into the ear. In my opinion, most of that wear would have been preventable with proper maintenance. Which begets the question of what is proper maintenance?

My rule of thumb, not printed in any service manual, is before every wheeling trip, I reach in through the fender on the driver's side and try to turn the upper insulator by hand. If it moves, I do a full systems check. This has worked for me for decades. Problem is, not so many people wheel their rigs anymore so the rule of thumb isn't as useful in those cases.

 

[Grayscale]

My rule of thumb, not printed in any service manual, is before every wheeling trip, I reach in through the fender on the driver's side and try to turn the upper insulator by hand. If it moves, I do a full systems check. This has worked for me for decades. Problem is, not so many people wheel their rigs anymore so the rule of thumb isn't as useful in those cases.

My frame has been wallowed-out on the driver's side. So, it makes sense to perform that check.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Yesterday we installed the bell housing, flywheel, and clutch.

I had help from “Inspector Z” our shop dog, Zeus. We was pretty certain I was doing it wrong but all came together.

My buddy cleaned the firewall and I painted it.

This morning we’re going to put the new engine in.

 

[Grayscale]

On mine, I used this as an opportunity to vacuum out the frame rails...

 

[MatthewMcD]

On mine, I used this as an opportunity to vacuum out the frame rails...

We did that too. Haven't found any lost treasure, unless you count the acorns.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Well, crap. I didn't check the mounting bolts that go into the engine block. The old engine is 10mm new engine is 12mm. I'll go get the right bolts and drill out the motor mounts to suit.

My question is about the fit of the "new" square design front mounts. The conical section is larger than the hole in the front mount. Do I have to enlarge the hole there too? (Or does it rest on the shoulder?) Also, it there a "right" orientation for the square mounts?

 

[MatthewMcD]

Well, crap. I didn't check the mounting bolts that go into the engine block. The old engine is 10mm new engine is 12mm. I'll go get the right bolts and drill out the motor mounts to suit.

My question is about the fit of the "new" square design front mounts. The conical section is larger than the hole in the front mount. Do I have to enlarge the hole there too? (Or does it rest on the shoulder?) Also, it there a "right" orientation for the square mounts?

View attachment 3829179

Never mind!! I was disoriented and did remember that this is the rear mount!

Stress getting in my way.

 

[B y r o n]

Enlarge the photo on this page.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Alright! Making good progress this morning. I am concerned that the fan is very close to the radiator.

What is the acceptable clearance and is it ok to hollow out the mounting holes to allow the radiator frame to move forward 1/2"?

 

[mrboatman]

I left all of the F mountings alone and I run a clutch fan on the 2F. It’s close but works okay no overheating or rubbing

 

[MatthewMcD]

I left all of the F mountings alone and I run a clutch fan on the 2F. It’s close but works okay no overheating or rubbing

Mine is hitting the bottom edge of the radiator. Going to try and remove the chassis pads and see if it drop enough.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Mine is hitting the bottom edge of the radiator. Going to try and remove the chassis pads and see if it drop enough.

I removed the pads and that bought me just enough clearance to get everything tightened up. The fan is “close” but it does not hit the radiator.

We filled the system with distilled water and addressed a couple leaks. I ran a hose as a “heater delete” just so we can get it running.

Had to stop for the day. Disappointed we didn’t get it started but happy we chose discretion.

I wasn’t certain that it was wise to run the engine with the clutch installed and nothing to support the friction disc.

 

[fjc-man]

The pressure plate is keeping the friction disc supported / held in place.

 

[MatthewMcD]

The pressure plate is keeping the friction disc supported / held in place.

I realize that. I have trust issues.
I worry if it's a little off center it'll shift at 2000 RPM. I don't want to leave the centering tool in it because it's a loose fit and will likely fly out.

Just being safe, I have too much invested to screw up now.