Builds New Bluey - 1987 HJ61 Ownership and Build Thread (3 Viewers)

[marshcat]

After a long wait my 60 has arrived from Spain! It's a 1987 HJ61 with cable lockers. While the car was still in Spain it got some touch-up paint and new interior upholstery. It also got an extensive mechanical service including rebuilt birfs, rebuilt diesel injection pump, new belts and hoses, all new fluids. Oil leaks were chased down and adressed and the engine seems to be running smooth and dry. We also rebuilt the AC compressor and custom made new AC lines. Right now that's probably the best part of the rig - the ice cold AC!

The car hauler arrived at 12:30am late Monday night. I wasted no time and first thing Tuesday morning drove to the local spring shop to have my Dobinsons kit installed. Later that afternoon I swung by the DMV and we were off to the races

.

First impressions of the 60 are mixed. I've always loved the look of the 60-series and I adore my 100-series. This is truly a dream car for me and I waited a long time to find a rust-free, one owner, round headlight turbodiesel. But so far I've found it quite challenging to drive. I've noticed five significant drivability issues:

1. Clutch pedal is HEAVY. Like "oh god, please don't make me have to shift again" heavy. I'm quite confident the clutch booster is non-operational, and I've already ordered a new one. Hopefully that addresses the issue.

2. Power steering is iffy. It feels like the power steering binds up under heavy load. Driving around at low speeds or higher the power steering works fine; I can feel it working and hear a very light groan. The wheel does not turn as easy as my 100-series, but it's not an issue. When I'm parking, however, and I need lots of power assist it feels like the power steering stalls out and I'm stuck with manual steering. Fluid in the PS pump is at the correct level and doesn't look dirty on the dipstick.

3. Brakes aren't great. Driving around normally they mostly feel fine, but the pedal stiffness varies a lot and sometimes the pedal reaches the end of its travel and I'm greeted by the brake warning light on the dash. If I try and panic stop the 60 doesn't stop any faster than if I press on the pedal with moderate pressure. I'm thinking my master cylinder is toast and i ordrerd a new one. At some point I will likely rebuild the whole brake system.

4. Jerking back and forth going over bumpy terrain at low speeds. My city has lots of potholes, and if I'm going ~10mph in 2nd gear it seems like I have no good option. If I keep on the throttle my rear tires risk losing traction and start bucking the car when they regain traction. Or I let off the throttle and the car starts bucking from low revs. The 12HT tractor motor is not my friend in these situations.

5. I had read good reviews of the Dobinsons suspension, and hoped the ride would be reasonable. But I really feel like I'm being tossed around. Do you think a couple sandbags in the back would help soften up the ride?


Beyond these five drivability items I have lots of other work to do! The front carpets are wet - i'm not sure from rain or from leaking AC condensate. The drivers door doesn't lock or unlock with the key. As I tackle these varioius projects I'll be sure to post.

thank you for reading!

 

[zeeklafreek]

Congrats on getting your dream car.
My first thought is perhaps you should have driven it before you did the Dobinsons upgrade?
I know that's hindsight but...when I drove my first 60 over 30 years ago, the first thing I responded to was how 'drivable' and sure-footed it was, on any roads/conditions.
Hope you get it sorted.

 

[marshcat]

Congrats on getting your dream car.
My first thought is perhaps you should have driven it before you did the Dobinsons upgrade?
I know that's hindsight but...when I drove my first 60 over 30 years ago, the first thing I responded to was how 'drivable' and sure-footed it was, on any roads/conditions.
Hope you get it sorted.

Thank you! That's reassuring to hear that it will hopefully feel more driveable once it's sorted. I did drive it ~15 miles around town before the spring shop. Not a ton, but enough to get a before/after. The original suspension was totally worn-out.

 

[BurntToast]

Thank you! That's reassuring to hear that it will hopefully feel more driveable once it's sorted. I did drive it ~15 miles around town before the spring shop. Not a ton, but enough to get a before/after. The original suspension was totally worn-out.

Which shocks did you get? Base yellows?

Other stuff listed should be fixable with some TLC.

 

[marshcat]

Which shocks did you get? Base yellows?

Other stuff listed should be fixable with some TLC.

Yeah, the base yellow ones.

 

[relaxedcruiser]

Congrats to your new dream car!
The round light 61 was always a dream for me - and now after 8 years as a daily - she still makes me smile on every ride. For sure you need to get used to drive her - the 12ht with it's over responsive govenor characteristic doesn't make it easier. No way to compare it with a, probably auto, 100 series.
For the power steering check the belt, seems it is slipping under load.
Varying brake pedal stiffness is most likely a wheel bearing related thing.
Against the jerkiness - try to dampen your right foot's movement against the side panel (oh that's for us...rhd) Is there anything to put your foot against in a lhd car ? The heater box ?. I also fitted a damper system to the throttle lever at the ip - which works quite well. Basicly copying a Merc OM 602 / 603 system.
You will always find things to improve - which in my mind is a benefit of those old bangers.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

This is an awesome truck and recall seeing when you acquired it a while ago. As a fellow 12HT (LHD) owner one tip on “low throttle” response is you should hang your right foot off the right side of the throttle pedal. Keep your heel planted on the floor, wedge your foot down on the right side of the pedal and have the outside of your foot against the transmission tunnel…when you want to feather the throttle pedal you role your foot to the left making contact with the ball of your foot. The key is keeping your foot planted (heel and outside of your right foot) against the floor and trans hump. This way you do not bounce on the throttle. Much easier to show in person vs explaining via text. This really comes into play when you’re on the trail in first low.
As for shocks, the best option is the Dobinsons IMS shocks. A bit pricey but leagues above the base Dobinson or OME shocks.
Great feedback above on the power steering belt. Make sure it’s tight. The 12HT PS is very smooth. Only time I experience what you’ve described is during medium to difficult wheeling situations. Then I use the pull throttle to keep the RPMs up.
As for the clutch…the clutch booster might not be getting a good vacuum source. Personally I think the clutch boosters are overrated. I do not use one and have zero issues pushing my clutch. I’m guessing it could be similar to a bad brake booster causing a “hard pedal”.

Lastly, find out if they installed a “heavy” spring pack. Without additional weight you would most likely benefit from removing a leaf from each spring pack.

Always glad to speak with you offline if I can be of any help as you navigate these upgrades and updates.

Jimmy

 

[CenTXFJ60]

It’s interesting that yours is an 87 and has a vacuum operated t-case. The one 87 61 I have is a manual case. Always thought Toyota introduced the vac operated ones in 88. Just learned something new which is a daily quest .

 

[franklin40]

love the custom interior with the paint colour. looks great. with time you’ll get those issues sorted and as you learn the vehicle and its nuances i think you’ll love it.

where is the carpet wet. that can help direct where you should be looking. power steering belt has been discussed. harsh ride may be something simple like the shackle bolts are too tight. could be heavy springs. could be too stiff shocks. lots of little things that need to be checked. i’m personally not familiar with the dobson set ups so others can likely guide you better but these trucks can ride pretty smoothly once you get it tuned right. for the brakes change the MC and get the system bled. then make sure you’re rear drums are adjusted properly and shoes have enough material. i believe you should have self adjusting drums with the ebrake. make sure the bells aren’t frozen otherwise they won’t self adjust. stock brakes are good if working properly but not awesome so you’ll just have to drive accordingly. i can lock mine with 33 inch tires on my fj62 but only if i really stand on them. they’re not the same as modern vehicles that have huge rotors and 6 piston callipers and it’s still a pretty heavy vehicle. all that said i daily drive mine and have had a few people comment on how comfortable it drives for a 35 year old vehicle.

don’t be discouraged. it will be the dream vehicle you want!! i promise. it’ll just take some time to sort out the little things

 

[relaxedcruiser]

It’s interesting that yours is an 87 and has a vacuum operated t-case. The one 87 61 I have is a manual case. Always thought Toyota introduced the vac operated ones in 88. Just learned something new which is a daily quest .

My 1986 JDM HJ60 has a vacuum operated t-case - I thought the change point was sometime in 1985...? Might be a market related thing.
By the way - I would prefer the manual one - but so far the vac system has never let me down. It's kind of strange that in an emergency situation somewhere out in the desert, we are happy to know that the engine would run without any electrics - but the 4wd not.

 

[bcsteel]

Vacuum T case is definitely an 85 and later thing atleast here in Canada. All my 60’s 85/87/88 had that option.


Nice truck. I’m pretty jealous.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@marshcat really cool truck. I love that it looks relatively stock and unassuming from the outside, but has that great upholstery on the inside. Can’t beat a 12HT too! I’m a lowly US-market FJ60 owner but have a few thoughts…

Both 2F powered 60s that I’ve owned needed a little goose on the throttle to help the power steering sometimes, like parallel parking or in the grocery store parking lot. I would guess I rev the motor up to 1100-1200rpm momentarily, very briefly. While I flick the throttle I also push the clutch in halfway so I’m not actually propelling the truck forward any more than I want it to - and I only do that while actively rotating the steering wheel. It’s automatic now, I don’t even think about it. The 12HT trucks have a different pump I believe, but if it’s Toyota it’s probably a bit underpowered like the 2F pump.

I also run Dobinsons suspension. The IMS shocks (the middle grade option) are worth every penny. Also, don’t be afraid to pull a leaf or two out of each spring pack to soften the ride.

I think you’re on the right track with brakes - redo the whole system. It’s a safety concern after all.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

My 1986 JDM HJ60 has a vacuum operated t-case - I thought the change point was sometime in 1985...? Might be a market related thing.
By the way - I would prefer the manual one - but so far the vac system has never let me down. It's kind of strange that in an emergency situation somewhere out in the desert, we are happy to know that the engine would run without any electrics - but the 4wd not.

So I’m learning more about this. It’s been a while since I’ve been back in the woods to look at the few 61’s back there. My 87 (JDM, RHD) actually does have the vac operated case. It’s my 88 Euro 61 (From Andorra) that has the manual case. I enjoy learning nuances about these cruisers. But unfortunately I’m scratching my head on this one .

 

[CruiserTrash]

So I’m learning more about this. It’s been a while since I’ve been back in the woods to look at the few 61’s back there. My 87 (JDM, RHD) actually does have the vac operated case. It’s my 88 Euro 61 (From Andorra) that has the manual case. I enjoy learning nuances about these cruisers. But unfortunately I’m scratching my head on this one .

View attachment 3705039

View attachment 3705040

View attachment 3705041View attachment 3705042

Let me take at least ONE of those off your hands Jimmy. How are you gonna drive all 25 of your cruisers at the same time, let alone your three diesel 60s??

 

[marshcat]

This is an awesome truck and recall seeing when you acquired it a while ago. As a fellow 12HT (LHD) owner one tip on “low throttle” response is you should hang your right foot off the right side of the throttle pedal. Keep your heel planted on the floor, wedge your foot down on the right side of the pedal and have the outside of your foot against the transmission tunnel…when you want to feather the throttle pedal you role your foot to the left making contact with the ball of your foot. The key is keeping your foot planted (heel and outside of your right foot) against the floor and trans hump. This way you do not bounce on the throttle. Much easier to show in person vs explaining via text. This really comes into play when you’re on the trail in first low.
As for shocks, the best option is the Dobinsons IMS shocks. A bit pricey but leagues above the base Dobinson or OME shocks.
Great feedback above on the power steering belt. Make sure it’s tight. The 12HT PS is very smooth. Only time I experience what you’ve described is during medium to difficult wheeling situations. Then I use the pull throttle to keep the RPMs up.
As for the clutch…the clutch booster might not be getting a good vacuum source. Personally I think the clutch boosters are overrated. I do not use one and have zero issues pushing my clutch. I’m guessing it could be similar to a bad brake booster causing a “hard pedal”.

Lastly, find out if they installed a “heavy” spring pack. Without additional weight you would most likely benefit from removing a leaf from each spring pack.

Always glad to speak with you offline if I can be of any help as you navigate these upgrades and updates.

Jimmy

Thank you for the wisdom, Jimmy! PS belt seems nice and tight. The Toyota dealer replaced the belts before the rig left Spain, and all their work appears quality so far. I'm guessing the pump itself is just a bit worn out. I've read that the HJ61/HJ60 PS pumps are the same as the FJ62? Maybe I'll just try swapping in a good used PS pump and see if that helps.

So far the ride seems noticably improved with the 33" tires over the mismatched 31s it came with. Still could use some improvement, but it's better. The tire shop snapped off two of my lug studs on the front passenger wheel. To apologize they gave me one tire for free. I was already planning to replace the lug studs anyway when I swap out the rotors, and was happy to save $300 on a tire.

This afternoon I swapped out the master cylinder and bled the brakes use a 1-man bleeder bottle. Went DR, PR, LSPV, PF, DF. Old fluid was brown-ish but not awful. The new master cylinder unfortunately did not come with a gasket, so I used a small layer of Toyota form in place gasket. I hate doing that but don't want to wait a week for a gasket to arrive either.

Braking with new new master cylinder is the same as the old one. Pedal feel is okay but if you stomp on the brakes the car just glides to a stop. Next up I'll try new pads, rotors, and calipers in the front. E-bike grabs great so I assume drums are okay, but I have new wheel cylinders, shoes, and drum brake hardware anyway.

Finally, as a quick win today I replaced the headlight bulbs with 100/90w Hella bulbs.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Thank you for the wisdom, Jimmy! PS belt seems nice and tight. The Toyota dealer replaced the belts before the rig left Spain, and all their work appears quality so far. I'm guessing the pump itself is just a bit worn out. I've read that the HJ61/HJ60 PS pumps are the same as the FJ62? Maybe I'll just try swapping in a good used PS pump and see if that helps.

So far the ride seems noticably improved with the 33" tires over the mismatched 31s it came with. Still could use some improvement, but it's better. The tire shop snapped off two of my lug studs on the front passenger wheel. To apologize they gave me one tire for free. I was already planning to replace the lug studs anyway when I swap out the rotors, and was happy to save $300 on a tire.
View attachment 3705662
This afternoon I swapped out the master cylinder and bled the brakes use a 1-man bleeder bottle. Went DR, PR, LSPV, PF, DF. Old fluid was brown-ish but not awful. The new master cylinder unfortunately did not come with a gasket, so I used a small layer of Toyota form in place gasket. I hate doing that but don't want to wait a week for a gasket to arrive either.

Braking with new new master cylinder is the same as the old one. Pedal feel is okay but if you stomp on the brakes the car just glides to a stop. Next up I'll try new pads, rotors, and calipers in the front. E-bike grabs great so I assume drums are okay, but I have new wheel cylinders, shoes, and drum brake hardware anyway.

Finally, as a quick win today I replaced the headlight bulbs with 100/90w Hella bulbs.

View attachment 3705664

Great progress and detailed update. Not sure about the 2H PS pump but do know the 12HT pump is very different from the 3FE (62). Have you tried elevating the front end either via Jack stands or a lift and having someone clock the steering wheel from side to side while you get a visual on all the steering components (with motor running). My thought is if the system is not leaking or squealing then there has to be something going on. Also, take the lid off the reservoir and make sure the fluid is moving when someone turns the wheel from side to side. Want to make sure you’re not getting resistance from either TRE’s, steering gear box or anything else.
On your brakes, does it feel as if the rear brakes are not contributing to the stopping? If so it’s common with a lift install that the angle of the LPSV is thrown out of wack. Lastly, the 3rd wheel to bleed in sequence should be the drivers front. On a LHD 60 series the union is on the passenger side of the front axle making that caliper closest to the master cylinder. Also, I don’t have a ton of experience bleeding trucks with a LSPV but have been told you should bleed it after each wheel.

And I’ve learned the hard way with tire shops not to let them use air tools when removing or mounting wheels. It stinks when they break off the wheel studs.

Keep at it and love seeing the updates.

 

[duncanrm]

Braking with new new master cylinder is the same as the old one. Pedal feel is okay but if you stomp on the brakes the car just glides to a stop. Next up I'll try new pads, rotors, and calipers in the front. E-bike grabs great so I assume drums are okay, but I have new wheel cylinders, shoes, and drum brake hardware anyway.

In my experience the Number 1 cause of poor braking on a 40/60/70 is poorly adjusted rear drums! Wind those shoes out until you can feel them grab then dial it back a few clicks.

 

[marshcat]

Great progress and detailed update. Not sure about the 2H PS pump but do know the 12HT pump is very different from the 3FE (62). Have you tried elevating the front end either via Jack stands or a lift and having someone clock the steering wheel from side to side while you get a visual on all the steering components (with motor running). My thought is if the system is not leaking or squealing then there has to be something going on. Also, take the lid off the reservoir and make sure the fluid is moving when someone turns the wheel from side to side. Want to make sure you’re not getting resistance from either TRE’s, steering gear box or anything else.
On your brakes, does it feel as if the rear brakes are not contributing to the stopping? If so it’s common with a lift install that the angle of the LPSV is thrown out of wack. Lastly, the 3rd wheel to bleed in sequence should be the drivers front. On a LHD 60 series the union is on the passenger side of the front axle making that caliper closest to the master cylinder. Also, I don’t have a ton of experience bleeding trucks with a LSPV but have been told you should bleed it after each wheel.

And I’ve learned the hard way with tire shops not to let them use air tools when removing or mounting wheels. It stinks when they break off the wheel studs.

Keep at it and love seeing the updates.

That's a good suggestion to test out the steering with the wheels off the ground. I will give that a try later this week. The low-speed steering takes some effort but is manageable. It just feels like the pump doesn't have enough "ooomph",

For the brakes I added a 2" spacer to the LPSV using some pipe nipples. Not my car but it looks exactly like this. That's interesting about the bleed sequence. I'll adjust for next time.

Yesterday after work I tore down the front right wheel hub to replace the rotor and press in new lug studs. The only way I was able to remove the cone washers was tapping on a nut at the end of the stud. I ended up buggering up the nut but that seems well worth it for a $2 nut. I'll be installing coated rotors so I don't need to do this job again any time soon. It's amazing how similar the rotor replacement is to my '07 LX, 20 years newer.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

After a long wait my 60 has arrived from Spain! It's a 1987 HJ61 with cable lockers. While the car was still in Spain it got some touch-up paint and new interior upholstery. It also got an extensive mechanical service including rebuilt birfs, rebuilt diesel injection pump, new belts and hoses, all new fluids. Oil leaks were chased down and adressed and the engine seems to be running smooth and dry. We also rebuilt the AC compressor and custom made new AC lines. Right now that's probably the best part of the rig - the ice cold AC!

The car hauler arrived at 12:30am late Monday night. I wasted no time and first thing Tuesday morning drove to the local spring shop to have my Dobinsons kit installed. Later that afternoon I swung by the DMV and we were off to the races

View attachment 3703403.

First impressions of the 60 are mixed. I've always loved the look of the 60-series and I adore my 100-series. This is truly a dream car for me and I waited a long time to find a rust-free, one owner, round headlight turbodiesel. But so far I've found it quite challenging to drive. I've noticed five significant drivability issues:

1. Clutch pedal is HEAVY. Like "oh god, please don't make me have to shift again" heavy. I'm quite confident the clutch booster is non-operational, and I've already ordered a new one. Hopefully that addresses the issue.

2. Power steering is iffy. It feels like the power steering binds up under heavy load. Driving around at low speeds or higher the power steering works fine; I can feel it working and hear a very light groan. The wheel does not turn as easy as my 100-series, but it's not an issue. When I'm parking, however, and I need lots of power assist it feels like the power steering stalls out and I'm stuck with manual steering. Fluid in the PS pump is at the correct level and doesn't look dirty on the dipstick.

3. Brakes aren't great. Driving around normally they mostly feel fine, but the pedal stiffness varies a lot and sometimes the pedal reaches the end of its travel and I'm greeted by the brake warning light on the dash. If I try and panic stop the 60 doesn't stop any faster than if I press on the pedal with moderate pressure. I'm thinking my master cylinder is toast and i ordrerd a new one. At some point I will likely rebuild the whole brake system.

4. Jerking back and forth going over bumpy terrain at low speeds. My city has lots of potholes, and if I'm going ~10mph in 2nd gear it seems like I have no good option. If I keep on the throttle my rear tires risk losing traction and start bucking the car when they regain traction. Or I let off the throttle and the car starts bucking from low revs. The 12HT tractor motor is not my friend in these situations.

5. I had read good reviews of the Dobinsons suspension, and hoped the ride would be reasonable. But I really feel like I'm being tossed around. Do you think a couple sandbags in the back would help soften up the ride?


Beyond these five drivability items I have lots of other work to do! The front carpets are wet - i'm not sure from rain or from leaking AC condensate. The drivers door doesn't lock or unlock with the key. As I tackle these varioius projects I'll be sure to post.

thank you for reading!

View attachment 3703317
View attachment 3703318
View attachment 3703319
View attachment 3703320
View attachment 3703332

Regarding #4: I have the same 12h-t and it had a super jumpy throttle that was a mofo over little bumps until I discovered the missing/worn out throttle springs. This linked thread has the information.

Potential HJ61 5spd touchy throttle fix

Yes please

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[marshcat]

Regarding #4: I have the same 12h-t and it had a super jumpy throttle that was a mofo over little bumps until I discovered the missing/worn out throttle springs. This linked thread has the information.

Potential HJ61 5spd touchy throttle fix

Yes please

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes the throttle springs are definitely worn! The only place I found selling the OEM springs wants $100 shipped for a pair of them. That's insane for two small springs.

I found someone who used springs from a 1993 Mazda 323 so I ordered a pair of those from Japan. $12 shipped for the pair, just hoping they fit.

Spring accelerator cable 12H-T - CruiserWorld

Spring is located at fuel pump of 12H-T motor. There are, originally, 2 of these springs to slow down the accelarator cable. 12H-T is rather agile when pressing the accelerator pedal. When these springs loose tension, the 12H-T is even more responsive, and the springs need replacing. Priced...

www.cruiserworld.eu