Builds New Bluey - 1987 HJ61 Ownership and Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Freewheel]

All the stuff people have been saying about brakes in this thread is valid. However, with your heavy clutch, I suspect you may have a different problem that I also had for quite a while. Brake problems can be triggered by a clutch booster that is not working. A non working clutch booster can release vacuum, so when you do a hard brake with both clutch and brake held down, the vacuum leaks out through the clutch booster and ALSO takes away the boost from the brake booster.

Try plugging the hose going into your clutch booster and see if your braking improves.

 

[FJ404345]

Congrats! Very cool truck

 

[marshcat]

All the stuff people have been saying about brakes in this thread is valid. However, with your heavy clutch, I suspect you may have a different problem that I also had for quite a while. Brake problems can be triggered by a clutch booster that is not working. A non working clutch booster can release vacuum, so when you do a hard brake with both clutch and brake held down, the vacuum leaks out through the clutch booster and ALSO takes away the boost from the brake booster.

Try plugging the hose going into your clutch booster and see if your braking improves.

Great suggestion! I will give this a try.

Today I attempted to press in new wheel studs. Turns out the Dorman aftermarket wheel studs are a tiny bit too long and even with many tons of force would not press in all the way. A Google search confirms the problem is not just me. So now I need to wait for Toyota wheel studs before I can get the hub reassembled.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

X2 on the advice to try disconnecting the vaccum to the clutch booster. If that doesn't help, would recommend an 80 series dual diaphragm booster, the standard 80 series booster will fit (tightly) with the clutch booster and is a worthwhile upgrade over the stock 60 series booster.

 

[marshcat]

Made some solid progress today on the front brakes. Rebuilt calipers, ceramic pads, brake hardware, new rotors, new wheel studs, and new soft brake hoses. Tomorrow I'll work on the rear brakes and hopefully replace both the brake and clutch boosters too.

 

[marshcat]

X2 on the advice to try disconnecting the vaccum to the clutch booster. If that doesn't help, would recommend an 80 series dual diaphragm booster, the standard 80 series booster will fit (tightly) with the clutch booster and is a worthwhile upgrade over the stock 60 series booster.

I took your advice and installed an 80-series brake booster while I had the clutch booster off. You're right it's a tight (but doable) fit. I let the master cylinder run dry during my brake bleed and ran out of time, so will need to re-bleed tomorrow.

But OMG does the clutch feel different with a functioning booster. The old booster was filled to the brim with brown brake fluid. The clutch feels so light now. In terms of force required it's at least an 80% reduction.

 

[marshcat]

Really struggling with the brakes. With the engine running the pedal will slowly sink all the way to the floor. I've tried multiple rounds of bleeding with a one-man bleeder, gravity bleeding, bench bleeding the master. The parking brake works great so I assume the rear shoes are properly adjusted.

My only thought is that the loose bleeder screws on the rebuilt calipers are letting in air. Take a look at these air bubbles flowing while gravity bleeding

New video by Daniel Sheiner

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Man I know brakes can be frustrating. I believe you have all new equipment less the hard lines. Not sure what bleeder tool your using but when everything is new at all 4 corners as well as the master it takes quite a bit of bleeding to get all the air out. Bench bleeding is key and covered as you mentioned. I us a bleeder system that pressurizes the master cylinder and it will hold a couple gallons of brake fluid. The most I’ve ever put in there is half gallon. Then I do several cycles around the 4 corners. You have a LSPV, have you tried bleeding it between each wheel? I’ve heard that’s of benefit. Also, getting someone with a strong leg to pump the pedal does not hurt. I put a new remaned caliper on a 80 yesterday and my pressure bleeder would not send any fluid through it. Had someone pump the pedal while the pressure bleeder was hooked up and it took some time but the air pocket finally broke and fluid started flowing. Finished bleeding the whole system with the power bleeder.

 

[marshcat]

Man I know brakes can be frustrating. I believe you have all new equipment less the hard lines. Not sure what bleeder tool your using but when everything is new at all 4 corners as well as the master it takes quite a bit of bleeding to get all the air out. Bench bleeding is key and covered as you mentioned. I us a bleeder system that pressurizes the master cylinder and it will hold a couple gallons of brake fluid. The most I’ve ever put in there is half gallon. Then I do several cycles around the 4 corners. You have a LSPV, have you tried bleeding it between each wheel? I’ve heard that’s of benefit. Also, getting someone with a strong leg to pump the pedal does not hurt. I put a new remaned caliper on a 80 yesterday and my pressure bleeder would not send any fluid through it. Had someone pump the pedal while the pressure bleeder was hooked up and it took some time but the air pocket finally broke and fluid started flowing. Finished bleeding the whole system with the power bleeder.

I have a Motive power bleeder originally bought when I drove European cars. But I've only used it with threaded cap master cylinders.



Do you use the universal adapter that tightens with a hook and chain?



I was also thinking of trying one of the compressed air vacuum type bleeders

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I have a Motive power bleeder originally bought when I drove European cars. But I've only used it with threaded cap master cylinders.



Do you use the universal adapter that tightens with a hook and chain?



I was also thinking of trying one of the compressed air vacuum type bleeders

Yes, on the 60’s I use the universal adapter with hooks and chain. My kit had an adapter that actually fits the 80 reservoir. I keep my bottle of fluid at 10 psi.

 

[60Works]

All the stuff people have been saying about brakes in this thread is valid. However, with your heavy clutch, I suspect you may have a different problem that I also had for quite a while. Brake problems can be triggered by a clutch booster that is not working. A non working clutch booster can release vacuum, so when you do a hard brake with both clutch and brake held down, the vacuum leaks out through the clutch booster and ALSO takes away the boost from the brake booster.

Try plugging the hose going into your clutch booster and see if your braking improves.

This ^^^

Edit - finished reading your thread and now see that you've replaced both boosters. Good move.

I had a 60 that refused to bleed and had the soft, sinking pedal you describe. After trying everything I finally gave up in discust and walked away from the truck for a couple of weeks. When I returned with rejuvinated patience and gumption - it worked perfectly without doing anything. Best guess is that it gravity bled the master while away.

 

[marshcat]

This ^^^

Edit - finished reading your thread and now see that you've replaced both boosters. Good move.

I had a 60 that refused to bleed and had the soft, sinking pedal you describe. After trying everything I finally gave up in discust and walked away from the truck for a couple of weeks. When I returned with rejuvinated patience and gumption - it worked perfectly without doing anything. Best guess is that it gravity bled the master while away.

Funny you say that the brakes felt noticably better this morning after sitting all night. I then went and gravity bled all the calipers again in addition to the LPSV. Got a few more bubbles out.

Brakes now feel good! Not quite as firm as my 100-series, and a bit more squish before they really starting digging in, but I would descrive the brakes as "good". If I slam on the pedal the car slams to a stop.

Amazing how much better the car is driving after a weekend of repairs. I drained and filled the transmission + transfer case with synthetic 75w/90 gear oil.

Clutch pedal is light, brakes feel good, steering is noticably improved after freshening up the fluid. Shifter moves smoothly through the gears. It's pretty nice! Now I just need to get the ride less bumpy. I'm still thinking I'll give sandbags a try. The back bounces around more than the front.

 

[BurntToast]

Maybe pull a leaf? I have seen people pull I think the 3rd smallest one

 

[bcsteel]

I would pull a leaf, went from a heavy kit to a medium. Way better.

 

[marshcat]

I'm planning a five hour drive this weekend, each way. I took the truck for a 30 mile shakedown yesterday and it felt solid.

Any suggestions on things to check to maximize the chance my journey is trouble free?

 

[duncanrm]

I'm planning a five hour drive this weekend, each way. I took the truck for a 30 mile shakedown yesterday and it felt solid.

Any suggestions on things to check to maximize the chance my journey is trouble free?

Aside from the obvious fluid checks, jack each wheel up and check for bearing play.

 

[marshcat]

Old blue did great on the drive to Lake Placid and back! There's a bit of steering play I will need to diagnose at some point, but the drive was surprisingly easy both going 75 on the highway and winding up and down the back roads of Vermont.

We got some heavy rain on the way back and sure enough, the drivers carpet felt wet to the touch. Any thoughts where the water could be coming from? I circled in red where I can feel the water

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Old blue did great on the drive to Lake Placid and back! There's a bit of steering play I will need to diagnose at some point, but the drive was surprisingly easy both going 75 on the highway and winding up and down the back roads of Vermont.

We got some heavy rain on the way back and sure enough, the drivers carpet felt wet to the touch. Any thoughts where the water could be coming from? I circled in red where I can feel the water

View attachment 3723770

probably from underneath the cowl or behind the front fenders (close to the a-pillar) where the factory seam sealer has dried and cracked.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Or from the rain gutter where it runs down the A-pillar. It stops short of the gap where the door meets the cowl/front fender. If the weather seal on the door isn't just right the water gets inside, runs down behind the plastic kick panel, and pools on the floor. Just one of many ways water can get in there.

 

[marshcat]

Brought the hj61 to my local generalist mechanic last week. He wasn't thrilled to be working on a 37 year old imported car but reluctantly agreed. Lucky for me, he does excellent work at reasonable prices.

He flushed the power steering fluid and my power steering issues seem solved. I can parallel park no problem now.

He also spent some time diagnosing the water leak with a hose. Even after soaking the rain gutters the interior stayed dry. He did, however, find that hood seam sealer is cracked and seems to be our culprit. He ordered some seam sealer and will be making that repair next week. Hoping that resolves the water leak.