Never seen brakes like mine!!! Big thanks to the previous owner(s). (1 Viewer)

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if you push one piston (like maybe 1/4 inch or so) the others should move out a little. try to move all 4 pistons in a little, one at a time. they shouldd all move in and out a little with resistance but smoothly . dont let them come out too far. you can put them back in if they come out but, it can be a pain some times with old seals.

I remember that test with air pressure. I think I'll just get the Napa caliper and call it a day.
 
Do you recommend replacing both left and right? Since one side will be new, would it be beneficial to do the other, even if it seems to be working fine (based on the condition of the rotor and ability to compress the pistons)?

While I would personally prefer to do both sides for peace of mind and fresh start on the system I get the budget aspect too. If it were stressing the funds I’d say do one side completely and plan to save and tackl the other side this year. Re bleed later is easy enough. Check conditions of your soft lines while the system is under repair. Now would be the time to replace if they look suspect

LSPV allows to increase/decrease f/r bias depending on the load in cargo area.
 
What is the point of LSPV anyway?
Load Sharing Proportioning Valve. When loaded extra bias is given to the rear. However, when the Cruiser is lifted, the LSPV is pulled out of its normal operating range. Some folks have cut the LSPV rod and pulled it into the upmost position. This gives 50/50 bias but fluid is still running through the LSPV and could be a potential weak or leak point in the braking system.

My LSPV was rotten on the inside and leaking. I removed it and installed a union. Driving the Cruiser afterwards felt like I installed a big brake kit. ABS is not affected and I've only had the Cruiser rotate on me once in ice when I stabbed the brakes and ABS was off.
 
While I would personally prefer to do both sides for peace of mind and fresh start on the system I get the budget aspect too. If it were stressing the funds I’d say do one side completely and plan to save and tackl the other side this year. Re bleed later is easy enough. Check conditions of your soft lines while the system is under repair. Now would be the time to replace if they look suspect

LSPV allows to increase/decrease f/r bias depending on the load in cargo area.
I prefer the bite-the-bullet and either tackle the front or back to conserve funds. That way left/right braking is identical. A healthy braking system on one side only can be dangerous.
 
I prefer the bite-the-bullet and either tackle the front or back to conserve funds. That way left/right braking is identical. A healthy braking system on one side only can be dangerous.

I agree. I just put the order in for both sides. Damn, I can't wait to see what the rears look like. :clap:
 
I prefer the bite-the-bullet and either tackle the front or back to conserve funds. That way left/right braking is identical. A healthy braking system on one side only can be dangerous.

well I completely agree and prefer to do both as mentioned but if you don’t have the funds then you have to compromise at times. Btdt

But on the other hand spending Dennis’ money is fun. Keep adding to cart man you got this. :D

if you can get ahold of an inner bearing seal I say clean, inspect and repack bearings since you will be this far in. Actually with new rotors you will have to have the seals on hand. 90311-62001. Look for any heat marks or pitting on the rollers. No need to replace if they look good, properly maintained they should last a very long time.
 
well I completely agree and prefer to do both as mentioned but if you don’t have the funds then you have to compromise at times. Btdt

But on the other hand spending Dennis’ money is fun. Keep adding to cart man you got this. :D

if you can get ahold of an inner bearing seal I say clean, inspect and repack bearings since you will be this far in. Actually with new rotors you will have to have the seals on hand. 90311-62001. Look for any heat marks or pitting on the rollers. No need to replace if they look good, properly maintained they should last a very long time.

I started looking at new brake lines. And yeah, I was going to order new wheel bearing kits, but then when I posted that on Facebook, this Thomas Hightower guy ripped me a new one saying I didn't know what I was talking about.
 
Sounds like you found a rookie enabler lol.
Just wait till @stevezero posts up some stuff you didn’t even know you needed.

Man, I'm a sucker like that. I owned a VW Corrado back in the day. Whenever someone mentioned a new part, I bought it and installed it on the car. 16 years of aftermarket parts on that thing.
 
I have been able to bleed mine with no real issues using the regular method. Other folks have had serious trouble. Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. That being said, if you end up replacing the calipers, gently pinch the soft lines closed with a small clamp or vice grip just north of the caliper before removing. Don’t overdo it. Just mash enough to stop the flow. That will insure that a bubble won’t migrate up into the master and it will prevent fluid loss while you are doing the caliper swap.

 
  • Remove LSPV and install union or tee
I

The LSVP is a proportioning valve. It determines the split of brake bias, front to back. The LSVP adds more bias to the rear as weight is added to the rear of the truck.

OPINION if you remove the LSPV you should replace it with an aftermarket unit, generally at the master cylinder. If you have no proportioning valve you bias will most likely not be to the front as it should be. You install the valve, test your brakes in a parking lot etc and adjust it until it feels right. Lock the valve down and forget about it until you feel you need to adjust.

Personally, I would not run a 50/50 brake set up, that is assuming that 50/50 is what you get with no valve at all.
 
NAPA in Indian Trail is where I got my calipers, if they don't have them can usually get them in a day or 2. About $50 a corner with core replacement was what I remember. Toyota front rotors are just under $75 each at ToyotaPartsDeal. Might be a good time to replace the wheel studs if they need it since you have to take so much apart.
 
how did I get brought into this? I've been on a 3 day nyquil bender, and still cant breathe right
 
NAPA in Indian Trail is where I got my calipers, if they don't have them can usually get them in a day or 2. About $50 a corner with core replacement was what I remember. Toyota front rotors are just under $75 each at ToyotaPartsDeal. Might be a good time to replace the wheel studs if they need it since you have to take so much apart.


Yeah, that's where I'm getting mine. They had left and right in stock.
 
This is the most active thread I think we've had in recent history. Three full pages in less than a day? For bad brakes? Damn! :lol:

In the future, pull a wheel off (or just take a close look) an do an inspection before pulling the truck apart.
 

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