Never seen brakes like mine!!! Big thanks to the previous owner(s).

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Might want to try this...Drop the pads back in (no pins) and wedge a big screwdriver between the pad and the rotor and pry between, pressing the pistons back into the calipers. Do this on the inner and outer sides to see if you can tell a difference with how easily the pistons push in inner vs. outer. You need to know if those calipers are stuck. Do this with old pads and rotors before you put the new ones on.
 
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Also, the NAPA replacement calipers are very highly recommended and very affordable. I have them on at least one 80 at the suggestion of someone who knows way more than most of us do. Just search for them on the NAPA site.

I have a Motive Power Bleeder you can borrow if you need to do a one-man brake job.
 
Hokie LX said:
Gotta throw in my 2c here... I got a great deal on a set of Power Stop for my LX470 and put them on when it was time to replace brakes on my truck due to a couple of good reviews on here. They warped very quickly and I have since replaced them with OEM. They developed a horrible shutter that I couldn't stand after a few thousand miles.

I've never had a set of brakes warp on me before on any vehicle. Point being...Power Stop is crap in my eyes. I'd highly suggest getting some OEM stuff. The dealers around here will price match anything you can find online in my experience and in my case of getting my OEM brakes, they even beat the online price!
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This man tells the truth. I've had aftermarket rotors on my 80 and they warped with alarming speed. For some reason most of the aftermarket rotors just aren't up to the task.

Go with OEM Toyota rotors. They are the best rotors I've used on the 80 series. Those combined with EBC brake pads have done well for me.
 
roadstr6 said:
Might want to try this...Drop the pads back in (no pins) and wedge a big screwdriver between the pad and the rotor and pry between, pressing the pistons back into the calipers. Do this on the inner and outer sides to see if you can tell a difference with how easily the pistons push in inner vs. outer. You need to know if those calipers are stuck. Do this with old pads and rotors before you put the new ones on.
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I actually did this in the beginning of the process. I used my channel lock to squeeze each side. I was able to squeeze one side. I wedged a screwdriver in there to keep the pistons from popping back out. Then, I tried to squeeze the "frozen" side and barely got enough space to slide the pad out. Then, I wedged another screwdriver to try to move it, and it wouldn't move much more.
 
JohnVee said:
Also, the NAPA replacement calipers are very highly recommended and very affordable. I have them on at least one 80 at the suggestion of someone who knows way more than most of us do. Just search for them on the NAPA site.

I have a Motive Power Bleeder you can borrow if you need to do a one-man brake job.
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There is also an adapter that fits onto the 80 series brake reservoir that makes the brake and LSPV bleeding much much easier. Here is a link to the adapter
 
NY2NC said:
I actually did this in the beginning of the process. I used my channel lock to squeeze each side. I was able to squeeze one side. I wedged a screwdriver in there to keep the pistons from popping back out. Then, I tried to squeeze the "frozen" side and barely got enough space to slide the pad out. Then, I wedged another screwdriver to try to move it, and it wouldn't move much more.
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I hate to say it, but you may want to consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing with NAPA.
As JohnVee said, they are good replacements for the OE pieces.
 
Hokie LX said:
Cant believe the PO sold you the truck with those brakes!
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It was more like a straight up trade. I gave him my 1999 BMW M3 for this LC. The history of the M3 was pretty ugly. About 6 accidents on CarFax. It wasn't fetching the money I thought I would get for it because every potential buyer got turned off by the CarFax report. So, I cut my losses, found a guy who wanted it and was willing to trade his LC for it. And that's how I got it. It was braking fine up until recently. Even drove it back and forth to Boone with no issue. So, I never thought about it having possible brake issues.
 
JohnVee said:
Also, the NAPA replacement calipers are very highly recommended and very affordable. I have them on at least one 80 at the suggestion of someone who knows way more than most of us do. Just search for them on the NAPA site.

I have a Motive Power Bleeder you can borrow if you need to do a one-man brake job.
Click to expand...

I'm stopping by tomorrow morning to pick up the axle nut socket. So, I'll ask him about the caliper.

I was also told by someone on that Facebook group that bleeding these vehicles was a pain because of that LSPV. Is bleeding pretty straight-forward like other vehicles?
 
roadstr6 said:
I hate to say it, but you may want to consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing with NAPA.
As JohnVee said, they are good replacements for the OE pieces.
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I think I may go with replacements. I don't know how to rebuild these. Do you know if NAPA does the core return?
 
Green Hell Mustang said:
This man tells the truth. I've had aftermarket rotors on my 80 and they warped with alarming speed. For some reason most of the aftermarket rotors just aren't up to the task.

Go with OEM Toyota rotors. They are the best rotors I've used on the 80 series. Those combined with EBC brake pads have done well for me.
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Lesson learned.
 
if you press the brake pedal without anything between the pistons they could fly out and damage someone/thing and squirt brake fluid everywhere.

you could place a peice wood where the rotor would be to stop the pistons from extending too far. just be careful there is a lot of pressure in the brake system when the pedal is pressed.
 
NY2NC said:
Is there a tutorial for that? I've never seen that before. I couldn't have my wife just press on the pedal while I bleed the brake on each wheel?
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Here is the power bleeder that attachment works with, as @JohnVee mentioned. Motive Products Bleeder. It's a pretty straight forward system and comes with good instructions. The bottom line is that you pressurize the brake reservoir, this adapter makes it leak free and easy to connect.
 
I have been able to bleed mine with no real issues using the regular method. Other folks have had serious trouble. Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. That being said, if you end up replacing the calipers, gently pinch the soft lines closed with a small clamp or vice grip just north of the caliper before removing. Don’t overdo it. Just mash enough to stop the flow. That will insure that a bubble won’t migrate up into the master and it will prevent fluid loss while you are doing the caliper swap.
 
roadstr6 said:
I have been able to bleed mine with no real issues using the regular method. Other folks have had serious trouble. Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. That being said, if you end up replacing the calipers, gently pinch the soft lines closed with a small clamp or vice grip just north of the caliper before removing. Don’t overdo it. Just mash enough to stop the flow. That will insure that a bubble won’t migrate up into the master and it will prevent fluid loss while you are doing the caliper swap.
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I'm going to replace the right one. The left caliper is in good shape. I haven't had any issues compressing the pistons. Napa in Indian Land has one in stock.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow. Long day ahead.
 
this is a motorcycle video but a good description of how the pistons should work.


if you push one piston (like maybe 1/4 inch or so) the others should move out a little. try to move all 4 pistons in a little, one at a time. they shouldd all move in and out a little with resistance but smoothly . dont let them come out too far. you can put them back in if they come out but, it can be a pain some times with old seals.
 
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NY2NC said:
I'm going to replace the right one. The left caliper is in good shape. I haven't had any issues compressing the pistons. Napa in Indian Land has one in stock.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow. Long day ahead.
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yes they will do a core charge refund and yes you should open the box and verify it is the correct caliper for the side you are needing. Right @jamesurq :). They got him twice with the wrong side in the box.
 
My best recipe for Land Cruiser brakes are the following:
  • OEM rotors front and rear
  • 100 series EBC Green stuff pads on the front / 80 series green stuff on the rear
  • Eclipse calipers from Napa
  • Motive Power Bleeder with Toyota adapter
  • Remove LSPV and install union or tee
I haven't replaced the brake lines yet but I will be using OEM for those as well.
 
jfz80 said:
yes they will do a core charge refund and yes you should open the box and verify it is the correct caliper for the side you are needing. Right @jamesurq :). They got him twice with the wrong side in the box.
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Do you recommend replacing both left and right? Since one side will be new, would it be beneficial to do the other, even if it seems to be working fine (based on the condition of the rotor and ability to compress the pistons)?
 
lumbee1 said:
My best recipe for Land Cruiser brakes are the following:
  • OEM rotors front and rear
  • 100 series EBC Green stuff pads on the front / 80 series green stuff on the rear
  • Eclipse calipers from Napa
  • Motive Power Bleeder with Toyota adapter
  • Remove LSPV and install union or tee
I haven't replaced the brake lines yet but I will be using OEM for those as well.
Click to expand...

What is the point of LSPV anyway?
 
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