Did you do any diode or the other higher amp charger fuse add on thing is for the x2 battery?When I bought my car from the dealership, it had a regular 24F 700 cca battery. I live in MN and it gets cold in the winter sub zero. I have alarm and car starter along with custom sound system plus Drone mobile so battery is always getting drained. My car wasn’t last two days before the battery was dead.
Went to batteries plus and invested in their best battery. No problems ever since. I can go 2 weeks worth without starting my car and it’s still strong. It’s a little over kill for most regular drivers but if your a little crazy and hardcore like me, it’s the only way to go.
“SLI27FAGMDP X2Power Premium AGM 930CCA BCI Group 27F Car and Truck Battery
- Premium X2Power AGM batteries do it all. They will not just start your car or truck in any weather condition but also run all of your electronics and equipment with ease. Exclusively at Batteries Plus
- This X2Power BCI Group 27F battery provides 930 CCAs for a premium level of power when you need it most. This battery can also be mounted in many orientations and is exceptionally vibration resistant.
X2Power Car and Truck Battery | Premium AGM | 930CCA | Group Size 27F - SLI27FAGMDP
Discover the relentless power of the X2Power Group 27F premium AGM car and truck battery with a powerful 930 cold cranking amps. Only available at Batteries Plus.www.batteriesplus.com
Need to replace battery? What do you guys use?
- Thread starter LCMemphis
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good to know. how long has it been in?
One year already since January 22
mdrei
SILVER Star
FWIW, I have same battery recommended by @UnFadeable21 (X2 PowerPlus 27F) and it's still cranking 5yrs later. It was ~$315 at BatteriesPlus (with core trade) in 2018.
any issues with your alternator? I keep seeing people mentioning these batteries are tough on them given...different charging profie?
I have an X2 AGM for the past year in my 200 with no issues at all. It does a good job at running my few electronic accessories when I'm out in the bush
mdrei
SILVER Star
Not yet...it's a 2014 with around 115k mi.
Did you do the diode mod? What year is it?
no mods, straight drop in. My cruiser is a 2017
Reading through the different battery threads and this one seems like the place to pose my current conundrum.
2021 with dual batteries and most accessories running off second battery. My camper charges off the starter battery as recommended by Redarc which is what my camper uses for BMS. Use case consists of plenty of punishment, long days towing on and off road with plenty of trail running in between.
Camping this weekend and I get the beeping alert from my Redarc battery volt meter upon start up. Voltage is dipping into the 10 volt range under starting load at camp where temps were in the 30°s. Testing today with my battery load tester and it reads 11.5 under load in my garage, 12.47 while sitting, voltage while driving is 13.8 most of the time.
While not being driven these batteries stay on my NOCO charger. I try to drive once every 10 days, truck is a weekend warrior with a few multi week trips during the year.
I’m on the fence if I need to replace now or not. However, we do have a 2 week trip to big bend and southern New Mexico coming up in December that has me leaning toward replacement.
Another note, there is some evidence of seepage on top of the battery, see picture.
It seems like the Toyota Truestart is the way to go for most cases but wanted to check in here with my specific use and get yalls thoughts.
There is probably some prorated warranty on mine given its 4 years old but I really don’t care to hand my key fob over to a tech just for a battery so I’ll be happy just buying new.
Another question… are the Trustart maintainable batteries? I’ve never pulled the caps and had assumed they did away with those by now but could be mistaken.
2021 with dual batteries and most accessories running off second battery. My camper charges off the starter battery as recommended by Redarc which is what my camper uses for BMS. Use case consists of plenty of punishment, long days towing on and off road with plenty of trail running in between.
Camping this weekend and I get the beeping alert from my Redarc battery volt meter upon start up. Voltage is dipping into the 10 volt range under starting load at camp where temps were in the 30°s. Testing today with my battery load tester and it reads 11.5 under load in my garage, 12.47 while sitting, voltage while driving is 13.8 most of the time.
While not being driven these batteries stay on my NOCO charger. I try to drive once every 10 days, truck is a weekend warrior with a few multi week trips during the year.
I’m on the fence if I need to replace now or not. However, we do have a 2 week trip to big bend and southern New Mexico coming up in December that has me leaning toward replacement.
Another note, there is some evidence of seepage on top of the battery, see picture.
It seems like the Toyota Truestart is the way to go for most cases but wanted to check in here with my specific use and get yalls thoughts.
There is probably some prorated warranty on mine given its 4 years old but I really don’t care to hand my key fob over to a tech just for a battery so I’ll be happy just buying new.
Another question… are the Trustart maintainable batteries? I’ve never pulled the caps and had assumed they did away with those by now but could be mistaken.
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To my untrained eye, that looks like some "seepage" or "drip" as the kids say. With a quick look, it seems like Johnson Controls makes the Trustart line of batteries for Toyota as recently as 2022 but I can't confirm. If it indeed is Johnson Controls, they also make a lot of house brand batteries for a ton of auto stores (diehard, duralast, energizer, everstart, and GASP....motorcraft!). Take the prior list with a grain of salt as the post I'm referencing also lists interstate batteries, but I know first hand the interstate AGM from costco I just bought was Korean in origin and NOT domestic. I am currently jaded with batteries as I just go with whoever is convenient/has a decent warranty given my prior terrible experiences with bAttERieS anD BUlBs and short lived interstate (less than 2 years) AGM. Whatever you pick, post a follow up and hopefully generate some well deserved good press for these consumable things.
EDIT: It looks like Johnson Controls battery division was sold to Clarios around 2023. So who knows at this point. One caveat about the TS from Toyo - looks like they prorate the battery warranty 84 mo (no problem), but also charge a fee to test your dead one for replacement. So, you might be on the hook for the majority of the cost of a new battery even if it's got a decent amount of time left on the old one.
My vote is to replace it. It’s given you 4 good years and replacement will give you peace of mind as well as clean terminals. Your instinct to avoid dealer involvement is right on. The caps are removable if you ever want to check levels. And yes to TrueStart.
I would start by cleaning ALL your connections at the battery. They may look fine, but corrosion sneaks into there and can cause the issues you describe. Costs nothing but a few minutes with a decent terminal cleaner and a wire brush.
I was having the same thoughts/fears with my big Group 31 Odyssey starting battery (7 years old now), then I had a couple of no-starts, had to flip to the house battery to get the truck to start. Was getting low voltage warnings from my National Luna battery monitor. Took everything apart, cleaned it all, back together, it's been fine since.
I was having the same thoughts/fears with my big Group 31 Odyssey starting battery (7 years old now), then I had a couple of no-starts, had to flip to the house battery to get the truck to start. Was getting low voltage warnings from my National Luna battery monitor. Took everything apart, cleaned it all, back together, it's been fine since.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
@Artie i have 13 lx with 175k miles. Single battery and no additional accessories. I change batteries about every 2 years. I just get the leaded battery from Costco. It is reliable and inexpensive. The southern heat is not good for our batteries.
I also have seepage as well. I clean terminals and spray protector in the connections.
I have backup terminals just in case. Oem is high quality and relative cheap during the sales.
I eliminate one variable from getting stranded.
I also have seepage as well. I clean terminals and spray protector in the connections.
I have backup terminals just in case. Oem is high quality and relative cheap during the sales.
I eliminate one variable from getting stranded.
+1 here on the heat nuking our batteries. I have yet to have one last more than four years. I'm going to push the OEM Panasonic until it gives up just for fun, but it's my rig and I'm not worried about getting stranded.
I replace my wife's battery every 3 years and critical application batteries on the same timeline unless they give up the ghost before the 3 year mark.
I agree with all these comments. Batteries start wearing the day they get put into service. The threshold for a "bad" battery is generally 80% of its original capacity but there's no common practical way to test that. Most of us are using it well beyond that to starting failure. I agree with @gasman4u , these should be looked upon as consumable if you want optimal performance. Or avoid issues on a trip.
The Truestart is a flooded lead acid and you can pop off the caps to see if the water levels are low. A good way to test health is a battery hydrometer which are easily had. They can tell state of charge and also cell health. Probably not worth testing as assuredly the battery is worn enough at 4 yrs in. Still serviceable but it's not going to be at top performance.
Another way to tell wear is seepage and corrosion. Whether from systemic low states of charge or overcharging, they will start off-gassing, which creates the corrosion. Sure sign it's better just to replace than clean/service as the inevitable is not too far down the road.
The cold weather usually precipitates a ton of battery replacements. It slows down the chemical reaction that produces power. Where it may be serviceable in warmer weather, the cold removes remaining margin.
As an adventure vehicle and not a daily commuter, the battery is more critical. As soon as I see signs of lost reserve or starting power, I change it. That's generally around 4 yrs. The low speed crawling and heat saturation, high draw, deep cycling, etc. all put greater wear on the batt.
It's less than a tank of gas to replace a flooded lead acid (which is the best chemistry for the starting battery, because the alternator is setup for that chemistry charging profile). Makes it an easy decision in my mind.
Outside of this, a lithium jump starter is a great tool to have. If not for myself, my adventure buddies.
The Truestart is a flooded lead acid and you can pop off the caps to see if the water levels are low. A good way to test health is a battery hydrometer which are easily had. They can tell state of charge and also cell health. Probably not worth testing as assuredly the battery is worn enough at 4 yrs in. Still serviceable but it's not going to be at top performance.
Another way to tell wear is seepage and corrosion. Whether from systemic low states of charge or overcharging, they will start off-gassing, which creates the corrosion. Sure sign it's better just to replace than clean/service as the inevitable is not too far down the road.
The cold weather usually precipitates a ton of battery replacements. It slows down the chemical reaction that produces power. Where it may be serviceable in warmer weather, the cold removes remaining margin.
As an adventure vehicle and not a daily commuter, the battery is more critical. As soon as I see signs of lost reserve or starting power, I change it. That's generally around 4 yrs. The low speed crawling and heat saturation, high draw, deep cycling, etc. all put greater wear on the batt.
It's less than a tank of gas to replace a flooded lead acid (which is the best chemistry for the starting battery, because the alternator is setup for that chemistry charging profile). Makes it an easy decision in my mind.
Outside of this, a lithium jump starter is a great tool to have. If not for myself, my adventure buddies.
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Yall are confirming my gut feelings on this, I’m glad I came here for the group input.
@TeCKis300 your gas tank comparison… we talking stock tank here or LRA or combo. I recently replaced the battery in our Honda Fit and was floored at the cost of it, $220 and it’s about the size of a lawn mower battery.
I should probably get a jump pack, I have the SBI aux battery jump capability but the added redundancy is worth checking Black Friday sales.
@TeCKis300 your gas tank comparison… we talking stock tank here or LRA or combo. I recently replaced the battery in our Honda Fit and was floored at the cost of it, $220 and it’s about the size of a lawn mower battery.
I should probably get a jump pack, I have the SBI aux battery jump capability but the added redundancy is worth checking Black Friday sales.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
@ Costco. 27f interstate battery is $114.99.
