My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I saw in my last off road trip a 6HP motor in a 8274 broke a gear pulling out of a mud hole a heavy truck ..

somebody's got to get this gear that is the weak link of 8274's off to longfield or marlin and get them to make a better one. I know i would be down for two of them. I understand there will always be the next link in the chain that breaks but at least you could push the lower limits of the 8274 strength a bit more.
Anybody good friends of bobby long or marlin? sorry for the sidetrack. :doh:
 
Hey David, pics??? :doh:

was in the middle of nowhere in the night and in my last off road trip back in October ( thought you saw pics and vids in my facebook ? )

somebody's got to get this gear that is the weak link of 8274's off to longfield or marlin and get them to make a better one. I know i would be down for two of them. I understand there will always be the next link in the chain that breaks but at least you could push the lower limits of the 8274 strength a bit more.

The situation was complicated and the owner was clear he was abusing the 8274 to the extreme ( actuall far out of it's capacity ) , but was the situation and the moment .. I'm more than sure that he would not do it again ..
 
Warn 8274 knob

Anyone looking for a replacement knob for the old style 8274 check out Amazon. They have a 2 pack Gray Part #2-218-300 that looks identical to the original. You can search 3/8 16 female thread knob and see other selections too. Someone in the link previously confirmed the thread type. Have not bought them yet but will soon. Just saw one on eBay for $34.99 BIN.
 
Has anyone played around with the winch motors?

My last winch motor died from water/mud ingress, the next one I want to fit a breather which will be pumped with ~5psi when off road to prevent ingress of crap. What is the best position to do this? in the motor end cap or into the side of the body?

Anyone with pics?

Also I had to handle the armature with my hands, is it ok to clean with electrical parts cleaner before final assembly?
 
Just finished reassembling my $200 8274. It came complete with with remote, functioning solenoids and cable for that price, and looked decent on the outside, but the inside was at least as bad if not worse than Flintknappers.

I didn't bother to clean well enough to clearcoat or paint, wasn't worth the time to me.

Thanks for starting this thread, Flintknapper! I also copied your method for adding grease zerks to the drum end support.

Notice the XD9000I I removed in favor of this 20+ year old winch. ;) (Don't worry, the XD9000 is going on my 80)
DSCF0025 (Medium).jpg
DSCF0031 (Medium).jpg
 
Has anyone played around with the winch motors?

My last winch motor died from water/mud ingress, the next one I want to fit a breather which will be pumped with ~5psi when off road to prevent ingress of crap. What is the best position to do this? in the motor end cap or into the side of the body?

Anyone with pics?

Also I had to handle the armature with my hands, is it ok to clean with electrical parts cleaner before final assembly?

I've messed around with the motor on my XD9000i a lot. The brush holder is not part of the main motor housing, but has to ground to it. From the factory, warn only has one tiny screw holding the two together, and I've had lots of problems with corrosion preventing a good connection between the two. I recently added another screw and a lot of dielectric grease to hopefully resolve the issue.

See new thread in this section for the pictures.

Luckily, the 8274 motor is one piece and does not have this problem.
 
Thats a very nice 8274 for the money.

Good job!



Flint.
 
Thats a very nice 8274 for the money.

Flint.

I bought it from a friend, he offered it to me for $100, but that wouldn't have felt right, knowing how much more he could have gotten if he put it on Craigslist etc.


Thanks again for the thread! Lots of good info in here.
 
Top housing gear removal

To all of you who had the case powder coated, did you remove the gear from the top of the case? It looks like the shaft could easily be driven out past the staking that holds it in - just wanted to hear if anyone else had done it before giving it a go.

Thanks,
CAZ
 
I took mine out (see sig for thread link)

Yup - just drove the pin out. The staking kinda breaks off but it went back together well. I suppose it could be masked off and left in too. They use high temp tape obviously.
 
flint,

i registered in hopes you could give me some guidence, hopefully you are still on here often. here is my predicament as copied from jeepforum.

Well last week I bought a 8274 from a freind to rebuild, the winch over all was in great shape except for one gear (see pic). This gear has some rust on the teeth and I would expect it fail under load, eventually. It also needs new needle bearings. This gear is part of the upper case therefore they will not sell these two parts separatley, so I dont really know what to do next short of buying the entire uppcase assembly for 300 ish bucks which I do not want to do. Any ideas? The rust is between 7-9 oclock.


2010-03-13_211633.jpg
 
flint,

i registered in hopes you could give me some guidence, hopefully you are still on here often. here is my predicament as copied from jeepforum.

Well last week I bought a 8274 from a freind to rebuild, the winch over all was in great shape except for one gear (see pic). This gear has some rust on the teeth and I would expect it fail under load, eventually. It also needs new needle bearings. This gear is part of the upper case therefore they will not sell these two parts separatley, so I dont really know what to do next short of buying the entire uppcase assembly for 300 ish bucks which I do not want to do. Any ideas? The rust is between 7-9 oclock.


See if you can locate the needle bearings, put it back together and RUN IT!


That gear will be fine.
 
THANKS Flintknapper for this great thread. Finished the rebuild of my 32-year-old 8274 and it works great. Even though the original Prestolite motor still worked, I went ahead and replaced it with a 4.5 hp motor from DB Electrical.

Before picture:


After pictures:


 
Last edited:
Hey 1911, do you have link to that replacement motor at DB? I did a search and didn't come up with anything.

Or if anybody else knows about a reasonably priced motor upgrade I'd like to hear about it.

Thanks, Brian.
 
Hey 1911, do you have link to that replacement motor at DB? I did a search and didn't come up with anything.

DB Electrical Starter-Alternator > warn motor,winch motor,warn winch motor,ramsey motor,ramsey winch motor,fenner

Be sure to take your your clutch off and see if you have the older keyed-shaft motor or the newer splined-shaft motor before you order so you can get the right one.

Buyer beware: When my DB motor came, it had a sticker on it that said "Made in China". What you get for $78 I guess, but it looks well made. We'll see how long it lasts, and it's still less than 1/7 the cost of a new Warn or Bosch motor.
 
1911, your winch turned out sweet!

Good job.


Flint.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom