- Thread starter
- #161
1/4X28 bottom tap....and yes there is plenty of thread to hold the cover (zerk fittings do vary in length though).
My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter flintknapper
- Start date
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1/4X28 bottom tap....and yes there is plenty of thread to hold the cover (zerk fittings do vary in length though).
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
I used a 1/4-20 or 28 (coarse or fine I can't remember but it was 1/4"). Zerks come in hundreds of sizes, shapes, lengths, straight thread, tapered thread... get your zerks and then get a tap to fit your zerks. Mine were juuust grabbing so I went to Calgary Fasteners and got some with a little longer thread and they snugged right up.
As far as thanking me for the information on my rebuild thread, it is not necessary. The hope is to give like minded individuals the nudge over the edge to jump in and enjoy using their hands and minds to work toward an attainable goal. Oh - and have fun, though the concept of fun is highly subjective
.Cheers all,
just registered to say great tech and very useful thread,
although I think coverage of the brake rebuild would be a nice add.
Personally I'm stuck on mine as I can't remember where the 3 shims go...?
I hope someone can help...
just registered to say great tech and very useful thread,
although I think coverage of the brake rebuild would be a nice add.
Personally I'm stuck on mine as I can't remember where the 3 shims go...?
I hope someone can help...
I tore into my very crusty 24V 8274 today. Most of it came apart easier than expected - no rusted or seized bolts, etc. Then I got to the brake...
That thing did NOT want to come off. I got the cir-clip off and started gently persuading. Eventually the whole shaft assembly popped out, with the brake still assembled.
Some less gentle persuading with a brass drift finally got it apart. You think this might be why it wasn't working right?
That thing did NOT want to come off. I got the cir-clip off and started gently persuading. Eventually the whole shaft assembly popped out, with the brake still assembled.
Some less gentle persuading with a brass drift finally got it apart. You think this might be why it wasn't working right?
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Thats the drive gear from the motor shaft, or part of it. Is there a gear on your motor? Perhaps it broke once and that bit wasn't removed from the case bottom when replaced?
Yep, you're exactly right. The gear that's there is in perfect shape, so I assume the PO blew the old gear, replaced it, and left a nice chunk in the bottom of the case
Well, after a bunch of time in the parts washer, I see the other gears are most definitely NOT alright. That piece of gear chewed up teeth on almost every gear in the winch.
It took a press to get the bottom brake disc off the brake shaft! Needed it to get the splined cam off the shaft too.
The solenoid pack looks good though
They're supposed to have dead spiders and eggs and webs in them, yes?
It took a press to get the bottom brake disc off the brake shaft! Needed it to get the splined cam off the shaft too.
The solenoid pack looks good though
They're supposed to have dead spiders and eggs and webs in them, yes?
Well, after a bunch of time in the parts washer, I see the other gears are most definitely NOT alright. That piece of gear chewed up teeth on almost every gear in the winch.
It took a press to get the bottom brake disc off the brake shaft! Needed it to get the splined cam off the shaft too.
The solenoid pack looks good though
They're supposed to have dead spiders and eggs and webs in them, yes?
I hope that you are going to replace those rusted nuts. Clean and use a healthy dose of die-electric greese on those contacts. I am glad that you tore into it before any more damage was done. It seems that the po used it alot. Good luck
For sure, it's getting new 24V solenoids (and fresh nuts). Lucked into some un-damaged replacement gears (thanks Deny!), now time for a brake rebuild and lower housing kit.
Way more of a project (read: POS) than I had hoped, but what else is new? Now I know how an 8274 works...
- Thread starter
- #173
Good eye!
It needs to be correct.
It needs to be correct.
New one is in... and protruding into the case nicely. I was surprised at how loose a fit that bushing is - didn't take much to tap it into place.
Norm,
I have the same problem as you did w/ your brake assembly. Just how much "persuasion" was required w/ the brass drift did it take? Where and how much did you strike?
Mines been on hold for the past year due to other obligations and trying to find new employment after being laid off. Trying to keep expenses to a minimum, so a new brake assembly is out of the question.
Thanks for any advise you have.
Michael R_
I have the same problem as you did w/ your brake assembly. Just how much "persuasion" was required w/ the brass drift did it take? Where and how much did you strike?
Mines been on hold for the past year due to other obligations and trying to find new employment after being laid off. Trying to keep expenses to a minimum, so a new brake assembly is out of the question.
Thanks for any advise you have.
Michael R_
Michael - I had the whole brake shaft assembly out of the case, set on a vise, and beat on the outside of the shaft, where the woodruff keys are. That got the top of the brake assembly loose - needed a press to get the rest of the brake off the shaft.
I'm going through it again with the spare shaft my pal Deny gave me... I need the cam gear. This one is every bit as ornery as mine was. Off to the 20T press again...
I should have gone with my first thought when I opened mine up and used it as a boat anchor
I'm going through it again with the spare shaft my pal Deny gave me... I need the cam gear. This one is every bit as ornery as mine was. Off to the 20T press again...
I should have gone with my first thought when I opened mine up and used it as a boat anchor
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 8274, thanks mostly to you guys, otherwise I might not have felt comfortable getting so far into it. This is my first real try at being a mechanic other than minor stuff most useful guys can handle, but put a tool in my hands and I just seem to know what to do with it. I have no access to 20T presses or anything so exciting, so when I got to the part where the brake comes apart... I um.. well.. wait for it... pulled out the 22oz Estwing framing hammer. I've built homes, just not cars!
In my case, the entire brake assembly with spline gear and all came out of the case while trying to "persuade" the outer brake to come off. This actually made it easier for me because I could rest the entire thing vertically with the brake braced on either side, but open to below for the shaft to come out. With the estwing (and something in between to keep from destroying the shaft) I convinced things to come apart.
I did manage to break one of the friction rings before the assembly came out of the case, so I'd listen to anyone recommending not to try prying the mechanism apart
Other than that she's all apart, had to clean out some sludge from the case just like some of the other guys, but thankfully all of my gears and innards are in excellent shape!
One question, from what I gather the only thing I really need to get other than new friction rings, is the lower assembly kit? My bearings look good from what I can tell.
Question B: what's the best way to clean everything? I've used lots of brake/parts cleaner but my stuff doesn't look anything like the white table cloth display courtesy of flintknapper. I know someone with sandblasting gear, is bead blasting same/different?
Thanks again for all the insight guys!
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
question one - yup, if you are happy with the condition of the bearings etc that should be all you need. You may want to do the seal on the brake shaft and o-rings on the free-spool shaft though they are more for keeping stuff out than oil in as the oil level is below that.
two - sandblast and glass bead blast are the same thing with different media used and are the ultimate when it comes to cleaning rusty parts. Sand is sometimes more aggressive depending on the equipment. Follow that with a spray paint of your choice. I went with powder coating and zinc plating because I have access through work but a good job with a spray bomb will give great results.
have fun
Kevin
two - sandblast and glass bead blast are the same thing with different media used and are the ultimate when it comes to cleaning rusty parts. Sand is sometimes more aggressive depending on the equipment. Follow that with a spray paint of your choice. I went with powder coating and zinc plating because I have access through work but a good job with a spray bomb will give great results.
have fun
Kevin
Thanks Kevin, blasting it is.. I'd hate for the winch to look almost the same after rebuild as it did before. Too much sweat and tears for that
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
My turn to add to this awesome thread... thanks to Flintknapper and all that came after.
Some folks will install the XP motor in their 8274 to get more omph. My build will be on the performance side of things, and thus include the XP motor. Many may want to know what makes the 6hp XP motor tick, I sure did. Pull one appart and it is quite obvious, the armature and magents are much longer. Here is a newer 4.2hp armature next to the 6.0hp. The 4.2 is well put together, but the 6 hp is in another class, as it should be. It is balanced even.
Quick pic.... more to come.
Some folks will install the XP motor in their 8274 to get more omph. My build will be on the performance side of things, and thus include the XP motor. Many may want to know what makes the 6hp XP motor tick, I sure did. Pull one appart and it is quite obvious, the armature and magents are much longer. Here is a newer 4.2hp armature next to the 6.0hp. The 4.2 is well put together, but the 6 hp is in another class, as it should be. It is balanced even.
Quick pic.... more to come.
