My Videos: Changing the oil in the front/rear diffs and transfer case (1 Viewer)

[Artie]

I just did this today. Front and rear. I'm a novice when servicing this truck and frankly just started baselining it after a long history of letting the dealer maintain it.

Rear diff was easy except I'm really not a fan of the low profile fill plug bolt. I actually think it's easier to round this bolt then any of the front diff plugs. Ended up using my m12 impact wrench to break it off. Once removed the fill was easy. I used AMSoil 75W85 and it comes in a bladder type container with a point tip that you can easily maneuver in there.

The front was more of a pain. I ignored the part in the manual where it says to perform the fluid change on a level surface. I opted to use my rhino ramps so the truck was definitely at a bit of an incline. Even with this, once I removed the fill plug there was only a modest trickle of fluid, so I can't imagine it threw off the level too badly (hope not). Cracking the fill and drain plugs on the front was quite a PITA. I didn't have enough room to finagle my ~25" long breaker bar up into the space for the fill plug, so just used a 1/2in drive ratchet and swung on it for a while, almost gave up, before it cracked.

I had considered all kinds of fancy ways of filling the front diff, including various electric pumps, but ended up just using some clean tubing, attaching it to the nipple of the AMSoil container, and squeezing until said containers were empty. Wasn't too bad once the plugs were loose.

I'm at 76k miles and had never changed the diff fluids (dealer has done the transfer case). I don't tow, but am probably in the upper percentiles for forest road use in a year. Fluid was still relatively clear and didn't look too terrible to my (inexperienced) eyes.

Breaker bars and impact guns?? Sounds like your bolts were too tight to begin with. Moving forward, if you torqued to spec I can guarantee you won’t need a breaker bar to loosen.

Good job on tackling this yourself! Having basic maintenance skills will get you familiar with your truck and that’s a big advantage if you do find yourself off on some trail some where and run into issue. You may not be able to fix something but you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like under there and that can help you diagnose.

I’ll add that if you are going to do this from now on look at a fluid pump. There are a few options but I like this one. The one gallon is probably enough.

 

[2021 LC200]

Did the first Diffs and TC change at 32k miles. The oil looked like new from the TC and used/darker from the Diffs. Magnets had a grey run in/wear sludge, no particles or shavings. I used the LC200 oil “package” from Ravenol via blauparts. Their bottles come with a built in hose allowing you to squeeze the oil in. While probably a minor advantage, it reduces the risk of any debris going in from a separate “pump system” so I will be using Ravenol again for the next change.

 

[bloc]

Totally agree on not liking the low-profile plugs.

Breaker bars and impact guns?? Sounds like your bolts were too tight to begin with. Moving forward, if you torqued to spec I can guarantee you won’t need a breaker bar to loosen.

These things are notorious for sticking, especially the front, even when torqued to spec.. that’s why the IS drain plug is such a common recommendation. Longer drain intervals do seem to make the sticking worse.

So yes, torque to spec, but also do your front differential fluid consistently, and we shouldn’t have problems.

 

[Sandroad]

I just did this today. Front and rear. I'm a novice when servicing this truck and frankly just started baselining it after a long history of letting the dealer maintain it.

Rear diff was easy except I'm really not a fan of the low profile fill plug bolt. I actually think it's easier to round this bolt then any of the front diff plugs. Ended up using my m12 impact wrench to break it off. Once removed the fill was easy. I used AMSoil 75W85 and it comes in a bladder type container with a point tip that you can easily maneuver in there.

The front was more of a pain. I ignored the part in the manual where it says to perform the fluid change on a level surface. I opted to use my rhino ramps so the truck was definitely at a bit of an incline. Even with this, once I removed the fill plug there was only a modest trickle of fluid, so I can't imagine it threw off the level too badly (hope not). Cracking the fill and drain plugs on the front was quite a PITA. I didn't have enough room to finagle my ~25" long breaker bar up into the space for the fill plug, so just used a 1/2in drive ratchet and swung on it for a while, almost gave up, before it cracked.

I had considered all kinds of fancy ways of filling the front diff, including various electric pumps, but ended up just using some clean tubing, attaching it to the nipple of the AMSoil container, and squeezing until said containers were empty. Wasn't too bad once the plugs were loose.

I'm at 76k miles and had never changed the diff fluids (dealer has done the transfer case). I don't tow, but am probably in the upper percentiles for forest road use in a year. Fluid was still relatively clear and didn't look too terrible to my (inexperienced) eyes.

If you used Rhino Ramps only on the front the truck was at more than a bit of an incline. With that modest trickle of fluid did you get out as much as you put in? I’m sort of concerned that with the truck at such an angle the front differential could be way overfilled?

 

[open country]

If you used Rhino Ramps only on the front the truck was at more than a bit of an incline. With that modest trickle of fluid did you get out as much as you put in? I’m sort of concerned that with the truck at such an angle the front differential could be way overfilled?

The fill plug is at the rear of the diff housing, so if the nose was up on ramps, the risk would be underfilling the front diff.

 

[hoot504]

The front diff took pretty much dead nuts 1.9 liters. That's capacity per the manual. I'm not advising anyone else to do the same but can't imagine it's off by much.

 

[open country]

The front diff took pretty much dead nuts 1.9 liters. That's capacity per the manual. I'm not advising anyone else to do the same but can't imagine it's off by much.

You're fine.

 

[Artie]

What is the acceptable range on filled diffs? I’ve had some rear diff oil blow out of my air locker manifold twice now. First time I pulled the fill plug and it was just below the threads but not dribbling out, have not checked again since the second time but I have added the diff breather and purge valve that are supposed to remedy my issue. I’m low but not by much.

My question is how low is too low?

I’m doing the maintenance for these soon regardless but I’m curious.

 

[avrguser]

Hi, just did it recently on rear differential and transfer case, still need to do the front differential. The old plug gaskets are flat washers, they have smaller inner diameter and it's not easy to remove them. Had to unscrew them like a nut. The new ones I bought are crush gaskets with a little wider diameter. Can I use them for both differentials and the TC or have to buy the same flat washers? And not sure if this is correct but the flat side faces bolt and the rounded faces the TC/differential. Also, the old rear differential oil is green and the TC is dark brown, is it supposed to be like that?

 

[bloc]

Hi, just did it recently on rear differential and transfer case, still need to do the front differential. The old plug gaskets are flat washers, they have smaller inner diameter and it's not easy to remove them. Had to unscrew them like a nut. The new ones I bought are crush gaskets with a little wider diameter. Can I use them for both differentials and the TC or have to buy the same flat washers? And not sure if this is correct but the flat side faces bolt and the rounded faces the TC/differential. Also, the old rear differential oil is green and the TC is dark brown, is it supposed to be like that?

I’d keep the specific gaskets where MrT recommends. It definitely would have been cheaper for them to use the same part in all locations if they didn’t see a reason not to.. and they don’t throw away money.

Yes the flat face should be contacting the bolt head.

OE TC fluid is indeed quite dark even when new.

 

[avrguser]

I’d keep the specific gaskets where MrT recommends. It definitely would have been cheaper for them to use the same part in all locations if they didn’t see a reason not to.. and they don’t throw away money.

Yes the flat face should be contacting the bolt head.

OE TC fluid is indeed quite dark even when new.

So I have to use flat washers or can keep crush gaskets on the rear differential and TC? I'm so confused with all these original parts and not sure what to get. I'm just afraid it's a bad idea to change those gaskets now cause it has fresh oil and better to wait until next time (unless I find a leak). For the front differential I think there are copper washers, I will get those next week. Who's MrT? Thanks for advice.

 

[bloc]

So I have to use flat washers or can keep crush gaskets on the rear differential and TC? I'm so confused with all these original parts and not sure what to get. I'm just afraid it's a bad idea to change those gaskets now cause it has fresh oil and better to wait until next time (unless I find a leak). For the front differential I think there are copper washers, I will get those next week. Who's MrT? Thanks for advice.

Both rear axle ports and the front diff fill are the steel gaskets, the TC uses aluminum for both, and the front diff drain is the big copper one.

I didn’t read closely enough and missed that you had already done the oil changes.. no, I wouldn’t swap things around at this point. Just try to get them right on the front diff and next time with the other parts. Also note that the front diff drain can be a big challenge.. that little 10mm Allen hole loves to strip. You can hammer around the edge of it to make it less likely to stick. If you don’t have it already look into the Lexus IS drain plug.

MrT is short hand for Toyota.