Builds My turbo build...FINALLY!

[rhyary]

I think that if there was a voting system on the most exciting project for a given year, it would be Rick's "Trubo" for 2010.

Many swap engine projects here are exciting, but if this thing will fly in a reasonable/doable and repeatable way, I have to say it would be truly incredible.

 

[locrwln1]

I am looking forward to what you come up with. I think a lot of what you end up "cleaning" up will apply to NA motors as well. I have been thinking lately, that it is time for people to start looking at "building" these motors. I know I am.

Jack

 

[Lugboot]

subscribed...

 

[landtank]

I am looking forward to what you come up with. I think a lot of what you end up "cleaning" up will apply to NA motors as well. I have been thinking lately, that it is time for people to start looking at "building" these motors. I know I am.

Jack

I'll tell you that every O-ring in the engine was do to be replaced. All of them were hard and rigid. People aren't going to like this but for those lucky enough to not have a HG failure thus far should look at a total refresh when they do have one. IMO just replacing the HG and associated seals won't give you the extended trouble free service that it once did.

Also my son's 80 and another local one has a startup rod knock. Those with the one I bought and a few reported ones on here leads me to beleive people might want to watch for that problem and get in there and replace those bearings before too long.

 

[ShawnTRD]

Going to replace a lot of the bolts with Stainless Steel? What about bracket and stuff? I say sand blast and Powder Coat.

 

[Tapage]

i have a question what size of turbo will be good for my lc for off roa

it depends of your off road terrain and kind of .. in my case there is no diesel without turbo for off road helping on and off road ..

But it's directly related from what do you want from your engine..

 

[locrwln1]

I know what you mean. I had a 1983 Goldwing Aspencade and it was in beautiful shape with about 30k miles. It wasn't the mileage that was killing that bike, it was the time. Everything was starting to show its age, I sold it before it became a real problem.

I see the same thing happening with our engines. When I am ready, I too will be going completely through it. So I am watching your progress.

Jack

I'll tell you that every O-ring in the engine was do to be replaced. All of them were hard and rigid. People aren't going to like this but for those lucky enough to not have a HG failure thus far should look at a total refresh when they do have one. IMO just replacing the HG and associated seals won't give you the extended trouble free service that it once did.

Also my son's 80 and another local one has a startup rod knock. Those with the one I bought and a few reported ones on here leads me to beleive people might want to watch for that problem and get in there and replace those bearings before too long.

 

[landtank]

Going to replace a lot of the bolts with Stainless Steel? What about bracket and stuff? I say sand blast and Powder Coat.

I H8 stainless steel. That stuff has always given me problems. IMO blasting and paint is a better alternative than PCing, and that is what I'll be doing.

 

[landtank]

it depends of your off road terrain and kind of .. in my case there is no diesel without turbo for off road helping on and off road ..

But it's directly related from what do you want from your engine..

A .82ar on the hot side is about middle of the road for our application. It's on par with the Safari system and those have had good reviews.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Subscribed.
Just curious, does anyone think this turbo set up will work with a Great Lakes Water Jet bracket holding a York Air Compressor bolted to the 4.5L?

 

[Bearcat80]

Oh to be OBDII........

 

[Pinetop Cruiser]

Subscribed. I have a new TRD SC in the box waiting to be installed, but this might make me think twice. That HP gain looks to be a lot more fun than the SC.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Subscribed. I have a new TRD SC in the box waiting to be installed, but this might make me think twice. That HP gain looks to be a lot more fun than the SC.

Exactly. That HP gain is down right ridiculous!
Hopefully this can be installed on my 80 and clear my York OBA setup.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

To maximize airflow with this Garrett turbo set-up, I would assume that a cold air intake (snorkle?), high flow air filter (K&N?), high flow cats & and a larger exhaust would be needed. Not to mention reliable software for the ECU, to keep it street-able and all new engine seals as Landtank stated earlier. Thank you for getting into this project, by the way!
In addition, a top mount intercooler with a hood scoop would be ideal to ensure adequate airflow for those of us with ARB, winch and Aux lights up front. A company in Australia makes a top mount intercooler for their diesels with a Nissan Patrol hood scoop. I emailed them but they do not make one for a gasoline engine. For the life of me though, I don't recall their name though. They are on ebay Australia...

 

[firetruck41]

To maximize airflow with this Garrett turbo set-up, I would assume that a cold air intake (snorkle?), high flow air filter (K&N?), high flow cats & and a larger exhaust would be needed. Not to mention a reliable software flash for the ECY,

Can't flash the ECU.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Firetruck41 - Well, reprogram it then.

Keep in mind that I'm just throwing out what I learned from my interest in upgrading the turbo in my car.

I have never looked into doing this in my 80 until I saw this thread.

 

[CruisinGA]

I think Rick's ego is boosted enough...


lets see some more pictures/ tech

 

[MikePL]

1. A top-mounted intercooler is pretty much useless at speeds below 40mph. The factory fan and the large radiator area create enough pressure to push hot air through the scoop. The first factor is that the radiator opening is way larger than a 2-feet-wide and 2-inch-high scoop. There's no way you would overcome this. The second factor is hot air being lighter and going upwards. For moderate wheeling there would be no turbo at all, and the performance would be even worse than with a regular engine. Such an intercooler on top would be damn hot. An intercooler has to be installed in the front because even at slow speeds, the factory fan will suck cold air through the intercooler.

2. K&N filters suck. Their airflow is not any much better than the stock filter (which has quite a big surface).

So the best solution is to keep the intake stock and modify the exhaust.

 

[landtank]

Right now the design will use a water/air intercooler. This cuts down greatly the piping needed to be run around the engine bay. However a properly designed water/air system should have a storage tank of some size. This helps in those boost situations where the greater volume of water takes longer to heat up.

Right now I'll be having a tank made to the same size as our batteries. I'll be putting a second battery tray in and then mounting this tank in there just as if it were a battery. I paln on having a nipple made so the overflow hose from the radiator will clip onto the tank and both systems will share the coolant. This then allows me to remove the overflow tank and have room for the circulator for the intercooler.

So if the york kit will work with a dual battery setup then it should work with my setup. BUt there are other ways to skin a cat so a different design could be done also.

 

[96r50]

I have the GLWJ York bracket installed with a second battery tray so there shouldn't be a problem with that.

I can get better pics or measurements if you need them Rick

Congrats on getting this project underway! Does the light at the end of the tunnel look any closer now? (or does it look like a train coming at you? )