Quick disconnect front sway bar bracket (1 Viewer)

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To all,

*** Finally Got a price ****

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I have been obsessed with designing a bracket for the front sway bar. I am not opening another discussion about should you or shouldn't you disconnect the front sway bar. There are already number of threads dedicated for that.

I can summarize and attest that with a disconnected front sway bar, the 80 is more comfortable wheeling, but only gain about 1/2 to 1" of flex. Nothing significant.

What I wanted is a solid bracket that sits with inverted U above the sway bar's axle connection. You simply disconnect the axle side, flip up the sway bar into the inverted U and using the same bolt or pin connect it to my bracket. Unlike some brackets I saw or hanging it with bungee cords, the sway bar end will fit into the U, protecting the rubber bushings and the metal sleeve from getting lost.

Like anyone who got the bug of developing a product, initially I thought, what's the big deal. The more I got under my truck, the more complicated it becomes as to what to do.

Yes, to jerry rig something is possible. But that was not my design goal. My design goal is to provide a turn key solution. A bracket that comes with everything you need to do it EASY.

To that end, every day when I got home, I crawled under my track and disconnected the sway bar, held it up, and reconnected it. Try doing it. You will see that it is not easy. Yes doable, but not easy.

After a week of doing it, I started to understand what to do.
I am having a prototype developed and soon I will have some pictures.

My prototype will make me happy and the whole idea can die with my prototype.

However, I wanted to know if others are interested. If I can get 10 people interested, I am going to run 10 sets.

Simply let me know if you want to be one of the 10 assuming the bracket is great.

Rami
 
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Sounds like a good idea, to me. At least for those times when you're know you're going to get into the knarly stuff. Or if you're on those trails frequently. I don't have a need for it at the present time, but I'll put in my vote for you to post up your results. :popcorn:
 
80t0ylc, thanks for your vote :)
I got the prototype from the metal shop. I am going to put in on after work today and see how things line up. I don't want to take a picture before I paint it and it looks good.
Your know, first impresssion.....
 
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My prototype will make me happy and the whole idea can die with my prototype.

Now that's the spirit!

One thing to watch for is that when you clip the sway bar up it might move the section the goes under the drive shaft into a position where it will now have contact between the sway bar and the drive shaft under full droop.
 
:popcorn: Waiting for the prototype evaluation and pics.
 
I would be interested in it but waiting to see the prototype first.

A quick disconnect sway bar should kill the debate, I would never drive on the highway without it connected but the ability to disconnect it painlessly once getting to the trail sounds like a godsend.
 
If you can do one that addresses the comments pointed out above, for less than $100, I'm in. I'm sure a bunch of other people would be as well.
 
If you can do one that addresses the comments pointed out above, for less than $100, I'm in. I'm sure a bunch of other people would be as well.

I made a set for my beater 80 few years back for about $5 total including the needed hitch pins. Very simple, it is posted somewhere on the board, try search.
 
I would possibly be interested in a set of these.
 
I made a set for my beater 80 few years back for about $5 total including the needed hitch pins. Very simple, it is posted somewhere on the board, try search.


Yeah, I made some similar to LandCruiserPhil's. Couple short pieces of angle iron welded together to create the U shape you describe in your prototype, holes, then welded to the frame. Hitch pin retains the ends.
 
Yeah, I made some similar to LandCruiserPhil's. Couple short pieces of angle iron welded together to create the U shape you describe in your prototype, holes, then welded to the frame. Hitch pin retains the ends.

Did you count in the welding machine and welding skills in your $5 bracket?

It cost me more than $5 to drive to home depot to buy the raw material.

I am always at owe at the skills of some people on this board, for everyone there is Mastercard :)
 
My prototype did not work as well as I wanted. I need to reposition the U bracket. Will have it by lunch time and will give it another go after work toady. The PS side has a bracket on the sway that interfer with the U so the U has to be grinded abit.

My design goas are:
no welding
using the two existing front bump stop capture nuts
allowing for front bump stops to install (working on a front drop bump stop bracket as well)
Solid to make sure that the sway does not interfere with the drive shaft (yes Landtank I am aware of it)
Not introducing rust weak point (welding to the frame not an option!)
Easy.
Pins must be able to use nuts for DD, and quick connect on the trail. For a DD the sway bar must be bolted tight, not with pins, in order for the holes on the axle U not to get oval!
So for DD you use the nut. Before going on trail (at home) you undo the nut and use the safety pin.
On the trail you unhook, when done hook again. When you get home when you have time, you put the nut back on for DD.
Drilling a 10.9 M10 bolt is not easy if you break a bit or two your cost starts to add up.
If you have a front e-locker (I do) you can't just put the pin from the inside. You have to push it from the outside in. But the shock and the brake bracket is in the way. So I can't use the T handle that was shown in one of the threads. And BTW this nice pins are $20 each!
And on and on.

Will keep you guys posted as I make progress.
 
If your prototype is a success...count me in...

- Mark
 
LandCruiserPhil,
This is not a business, it is a bracket that I seriously doubt I will be making any money on.
I consider it a service, or contribution to members of this board with the little I have to offer back to all the ideas and solutions I already got.

I don't consider photoman bracket for the 150amp alternator a business. I am grateful to him that he bother with a bracket that allows me to enjoy higher output Toyota alternator.

I want to do the same for people like me that have limited skills but want a quick way to disconnect the front sway bar. For my type of a person, it has to be bolt on, simple/easy and looks pretty. That's all.
 
I'm interested. I got some pins already, it just hasn't been warm enough for me to get out there and figure out what I was going to do frame-side to hold up the sway bar. I'm willing to put in on you doing the R&D to figure out the details.
 
Has anyone developed a rear sway bar disconnect?

No need, you can get full articulation with the rear sway bar connected provided you extended the links.

Picture with sway bar connected
rear 80.JPG
 

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