pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I think on a 40 I've used a 15 b4, but never a 16 or 13. I would keep the 13 because it's a good substitute for a 1/2".
My TLC experience (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sogncab
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- Thread starter
- #362
I've definitely got 15 somewhere, I want to say the seat mounts.
I can't think of a 16 anywhere either. I should look and see if there's anything that makes sense on the engine that would need a 16 or 18
I can't think of a 16 anywhere either. I should look and see if there's anything that makes sense on the engine that would need a 16 or 18
I can agree, no 15 really.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Seems like those extra sockets could go in a small container in the glove box, just in case. 
- Thread starter
- #365
Went for a little drive this morning.
Radiator fully covered. -4ºF this morning. God that's a cold ride.
I couldn't get the engine up to 180° to even open the thermostat.
My buddy who was a driveline mechanic up until recently is going to help me throw the lockers in tomorrow and probably Tuesday.
Today I just drained the axles, popped the wheels off, unhooked the driveshafts, took the calipers off the rotors, and disassembled the rear drums. I didn't inventory my parts, and I'm short the new backing plates for the newer style drums. Hopefully I can get those sourced before the weekend. Not because I need my rig, but I'm eating up a bay at my brother's home shop, and I really don't want to crap on that resource.
Unless there's some freak chance the backing plates are the same? That seems way unlikely, but not implausible.
Free set of rear drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders if somebody local wants them.
It's good to spend Christmas with those I love most.
***edit***
Backing plates are not the same. Found a parts diagram. Same part number, different prefix. Sad face.
Radiator fully covered. -4ºF this morning. God that's a cold ride.
I couldn't get the engine up to 180° to even open the thermostat.My buddy who was a driveline mechanic up until recently is going to help me throw the lockers in tomorrow and probably Tuesday.
Today I just drained the axles, popped the wheels off, unhooked the driveshafts, took the calipers off the rotors, and disassembled the rear drums. I didn't inventory my parts, and I'm short the new backing plates for the newer style drums. Hopefully I can get those sourced before the weekend. Not because I need my rig, but I'm eating up a bay at my brother's home shop, and I really don't want to crap on that resource.
Unless there's some freak chance the backing plates are the same? That seems way unlikely, but not implausible.
Free set of rear drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders if somebody local wants them.
It's good to spend Christmas with those I love most.
***edit***
Backing plates are not the same. Found a parts diagram. Same part number, different prefix. Sad face.
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- Thread starter
- #366
Yesterday, got everything ripped apart, and got the diff installed in the third member.
Putting in an ARB breather kit for the axles. I'm told it's not when the lockers will leak, but when. If the breather is clogged, it'll push all the fluid out of the pinion seal.
Putting in an ARB breather kit for the axles. I'm told it's not when the lockers will leak, but when. If the breather is clogged, it'll push all the fluid out of the pinion seal.
I've seen oil come out of the air lines a lot as well. Mine do it sometimes. Just be aware if the solenoids puke oil or the breather does. Pretty common thing as I have seen.
- Thread starter
- #368
The little red dog had to spend the yesterday and today in the back of the cruiser. I'm working on it at my brother's place, and he has mouse poison everywhere. My dog is an idiot, she'll be dead in no time.
Got both differentials installed and back in the housings and the diveshafts back in place.
I'm not thrilled with the air line going into the front diff. I need to order some different fittings to go into the axle tube anyways for the breathers, so I'll see if I can come up with something a little better. I'm concerned at full compression on that side, it's going to bonk the oil pan.
I didn't reconcile my parts, and I didn't have the new backer plates for the rear drums. Those are inbound, and I should have them Friday. Barring anything else missing, I should be seeing how stuck I can get in the snow Saturday.
The front end is 100% with the exception of fluid, the rear is waiting for brake parts.
Got both differentials installed and back in the housings and the diveshafts back in place.
I'm not thrilled with the air line going into the front diff. I need to order some different fittings to go into the axle tube anyways for the breathers, so I'll see if I can come up with something a little better. I'm concerned at full compression on that side, it's going to bonk the oil pan.
I didn't reconcile my parts, and I didn't have the new backer plates for the rear drums. Those are inbound, and I should have them Friday. Barring anything else missing, I should be seeing how stuck I can get in the snow Saturday.
The front end is 100% with the exception of fluid, the rear is waiting for brake parts.
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- Thread starter
- #369
Good to know.
This will be the first four wheel drive vehicle I've ever owned. I'm pretty excited. Lots of 1wd, quite a few 2wd, one 3wd, never a 4wd.
After owning that F350 with the electronic rear locker, I don't think I'd ever go back to a limited slip again. There's lots of times you don't want power going hard to both rear tires.
- Thread starter
- #370
Potentially stupid question, I haven't looked it up yet.
I'm assuming the H55 has a front seal? Not just a bushing?
I'm getting some gear oil leaking out the front. I popped the inspection cover off the bellhousing today. I had some drips on the floor that I was assuming was brake fluid, and from the slave cylinder, but that isn't it.
It's almost certainly coming from the front of the tranny. I've got schmoo sprayed up the inside of the bellhousing.
I'm assuming the H55 has a front seal? Not just a bushing?
I'm getting some gear oil leaking out the front. I popped the inspection cover off the bellhousing today. I had some drips on the floor that I was assuming was brake fluid, and from the slave cylinder, but that isn't it.
It's almost certainly coming from the front of the tranny. I've got schmoo sprayed up the inside of the bellhousing.
- Thread starter
- #371
God I hate FedEx. They can eat a whole bag full of richards.
A week ago, (last Tuesday), this said Friday the 30th. Great! I'll button up the turd wagon over the weekend, and get it out of my brother's shop. Later in the day Saturday, I can go see what REALLY stuck in snow looks like.
Then it said Monday.... Okay, I guess Monday night I'll get it wrapped up.
Then it said Tuesday.... Well Frick.
Today it says, GFYS.
Also bought a MityVac contraption that connects to either a vacuum pump, or compressed air for doing fluid transfer. I hate squeezing bottle of 80-90 into a diff. The Tcase and tranny are pure misery to do. Hoping the widget facilitates nice easy fluid fills.
A week ago, (last Tuesday), this said Friday the 30th. Great! I'll button up the turd wagon over the weekend, and get it out of my brother's shop. Later in the day Saturday, I can go see what REALLY stuck in snow looks like.
Then it said Monday.... Okay, I guess Monday night I'll get it wrapped up.
Then it said Tuesday.... Well Frick.
Today it says, GFYS.
Also bought a MityVac contraption that connects to either a vacuum pump, or compressed air for doing fluid transfer. I hate squeezing bottle of 80-90 into a diff. The Tcase and tranny are pure misery to do. Hoping the widget facilitates nice easy fluid fills.
- Thread starter
- #373
Got some progress made today.
Got the holes drilled in the housing.
Picked up all my fasteners. I need to chase the threads on the a-dapter kit.
I get to bend up new brake lines for the rear axle. Something I would not say I'm proficient at....
HOPEFULLY, I can get this buttoned up tomorrow.
Did not have time to build a little harness to wire up the Toyota switches for the solenoids that I have on the dash, so I'm using two holes in the console for now.
I need to do some reading, but the way ARB has it setup up, the front locker switch is not energized unless the rear locker is engaged. I'm 99% sure I can just jumper power from the rear switch to the front switch to bypass that and be able to run just the front if needed.
There shouldn't be any amperage on those switches.
It should be just enough juice to trigger the relays.
Got the holes drilled in the housing.
Picked up all my fasteners. I need to chase the threads on the a-dapter kit.
I get to bend up new brake lines for the rear axle. Something I would not say I'm proficient at....
HOPEFULLY, I can get this buttoned up tomorrow.
Did not have time to build a little harness to wire up the Toyota switches for the solenoids that I have on the dash, so I'm using two holes in the console for now.
I need to do some reading, but the way ARB has it setup up, the front locker switch is not energized unless the rear locker is engaged. I'm 99% sure I can just jumper power from the rear switch to the front switch to bypass that and be able to run just the front if needed.
There shouldn't be any amperage on those switches.
It should be just enough juice to trigger the relays.
- Thread starter
- #374
Aggravated. Mostly at myself. I had months to carefully inventory parts and I didn't. I'm missing a bunch of the e brake parts.
Bottom holes in the housing need a little material ground do there's room for washers. Did that with a die grinder and a 3" cut off wheel. Went slow, but I had the speed turned down a bit. I'm not a huge fan of cut off wheels right in my face.
Mounting bolts in place. I just used nylock nuts on a allen head capscrew.
Backing plate on. This fits snug on the adapter. I jumped around with a ratchet snugging up the fasteners until it found home. Then I backed them out one by one and put a drop of red loctite on. Bolts were picked up long, and were a little hard to find in town. 12mm with a 1.25 mm pitch. I bottomed out the bolts in the adapter, clamped the adapter in a vice, cut the excess fastener off with a death wheel, then ground them back almost flush with the bench grinder. The bolts can't past the back of the adapter, they will run into the flange on the axle housing. I figured doing it this way would give me almost maximum thread engagement.
Poor red dog spent the whole day cooped up in the back. Again.
Bottom holes in the housing need a little material ground do there's room for washers. Did that with a die grinder and a 3" cut off wheel. Went slow, but I had the speed turned down a bit. I'm not a huge fan of cut off wheels right in my face.
Mounting bolts in place. I just used nylock nuts on a allen head capscrew.
Backing plate on. This fits snug on the adapter. I jumped around with a ratchet snugging up the fasteners until it found home. Then I backed them out one by one and put a drop of red loctite on. Bolts were picked up long, and were a little hard to find in town. 12mm with a 1.25 mm pitch. I bottomed out the bolts in the adapter, clamped the adapter in a vice, cut the excess fastener off with a death wheel, then ground them back almost flush with the bench grinder. The bolts can't past the back of the adapter, they will run into the flange on the axle housing. I figured doing it this way would give me almost maximum thread engagement.
Poor red dog spent the whole day cooped up in the back. Again.
- Thread starter
- #375
Wheel cylinders mounted. Shoes sorta on. I'm missing the automatic adjusting levers, that parking brake levers, and it looks like the pulleys yet. Grrr....
I can at least put it back on it's wheels like this.
I had to bend up a new line for the passenger's side. I doesn't look horrible, but it ain't good.
I was able to make the driver's side work with what was there. Also, very ugly.
When the body comes off, I'll redo both and blow through a few hundred feet of tube getting it nice....
This thing is the tits. Still takes a while to fill a differential, but you aren't spending it giving yourself a hemorrhoid squeezing a bottle with a piece of tubing poorly wedged on the end.
I spilled one drop on the floor.
I can at least put it back on it's wheels like this.
I had to bend up a new line for the passenger's side. I doesn't look horrible, but it ain't good.
I was able to make the driver's side work with what was there. Also, very ugly.
When the body comes off, I'll redo both and blow through a few hundred feet of tube getting it nice....
This thing is the tits. Still takes a while to fill a differential, but you aren't spending it giving yourself a hemorrhoid squeezing a bottle with a piece of tubing poorly wedged on the end.
I spilled one drop on the floor.
What’s the brand name of the tool?Wheel cylinders mounted. Shoes sorta on. I'm missing the automatic adjusting levers, that parking brake levers, and it looks like the pulleys yet. Grrr....
I can at least put it back on it's wheels like this.
I had to bend up a new line for the passenger's side. I doesn't look horrible, but it ain't good.
I was able to make the driver's side work with what was there. Also, very ugly.
When the body comes off, I'll redo both and blow through a few hundred feet of tube getting it nice....
View attachment 3213127
View attachment 3213128
This thing is the tits. Still takes a while to fill a differential, but you aren't spending it giving yourself a hemorrhoid squeezing a bottle with a piece of tubing poorly wedged on the end.
I spilled one drop on the floor.
View attachment 3213125
View attachment 3213126
John McVicker
SILVER Star
^^^
Interested also.
Interested also.
- Thread starter
- #378
Mityvac MV7102
In my 78 there was plenty of slack to move the wiper switch all the way to the top right corner. Maybe you can move the wiper switch and then either move the front one there, or the rear one there?
Here's where i put mine:
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FWIW, you can swap a 70 series rear axle on your 40 to get rear e brake on the axle. Have to reposition perches. WMS to WMS is about the same as for a 40 series axle. No backing plate mods needed. @SipLife my son did it on his 40 and it works very well. He added a ebrake handle from a 70 series as well. Your air locker 3rd fits as well.
