My TBI adventure...so far

[cruiser enthuiser]

I understand that this type of fuel pump, electric, in-line, is noisy when it operates. It also needs to be mounted as close to the tank as possible which means it will be right under the front seats. Before mounting I wrapped it in this old material, originally a pad I used to protect frame parts for a mountain bike. Probably not what an ace mechanic would have used but I had it laying around and I believe it will effectively dampen some vibration. I also made a quickie bracket for mounting a cannister style fuel filter. I made it out of some HVAC duct strap that I also had laying around.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Afer some consideration and some input from you guys here on Mud I decided on a location to mount the pump. I drilled and tapped a hole for a 9/16" bolt on the front cross member and mounted it there. I did put a rubber washer behind it, again in the hopes of making it as quiet as possible.

Note that I installed a simple pre-pump filter in addition to the post-pump cannister filter. You will also see the return fuel line installed. I ran them both along the cross member to the driver side frame rails then up the fire wall. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the tub next to the existing hole where the return fuel line passes into the interior to connect with the tank. The fuel pump is surpisingly secure and the installation of the fuel lines looked pretty clean though the pictures may not show it. I am pleased with how it came out.

One more thing- installed an in-line fuel pressure guage near the throttle body.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

I removed the old fuel lines and mechanical fuel pump. My Dad gave me a nice chrome block-off plate from an old project of his. I cut a new gasket and installed it.

It's sooo shiny...makes the rest of the engine look like crap .

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

So About That Wiring...

In an earlier post I discussed my internal debate about whether to use the GM harness or go Painless. The GM one was sitting on the floor of my shop, so for several evenings I simply stared at it. Internet searches and of course the Tech Links here on Mud revealed numerous sources for wiring diagrams. Since I have more time than money these days the choice became clear. With diagrams in hand I went through every wire of the harness and labeled them, even the ones I knew I wouldn't need. It took a number hours but I was patient and took my time. Afterwards, I felt like I had an excellent understanding of how the harness works and honestly, it was't too bad.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Here's where I'm at now. I stripped down the harness to mostly just what I will be using - there's still a little clean up to do. I spliced in the ALDL connector and new injector connectors. The second pic shows the harness on the engine where I was sort of mocking it up. I gotta say, when I was doing this I was feeling pretty good. I had the sense that this conversion is really going to work, and with any luck I'll be starting it up soon!

One more thing...I couldn't stand those nasty looking, yellow'ed plastic injector connectors, so I painted 'em. I used Valspar plastic paint. I hope it holds up.

 

[CruisinGA]

You've probably already done something for this, but I thought I would mention it just in case. I'd hate to see your hard work go up in flames.

Nice work BTW.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

You've probably already done something for this, but I thought I would mention it just in case. I'd hate to see your hard work go up in flames.

Nice work BTW.

Good observation. The grommets will go in when I re-install the gas tank. I pulled it so I could use the POR 15 fuel tank kit to clean and seal it. There's no way I would run fuel from that dirty old thing into my new fuel system .

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

A Forty-year Old Gas Tank

I spent time this weekend continuing work on the fuel system. The fuel tank, as you might expect in a 40+ year old vehicle, was in need of a make over. It weeps a little fuel at the seems around the top of the tank when it's filled. This always gave the interior a charming smell. It's also dirty and a little beat up but generally in good shape for it's age. I was pleased that there was no sign of rust when I pulled the sender and looked inside but there was some visible gunk. I picked up a POR 15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit in the hope that this would fix the weeping seems and get it nice and clean inside.

I also bought a new fuel sender from Classic Instruments. It's their deluxe unit (pt # SN33) that mounts the sending unit on a tube that allows me to plumb in the return line required for the fuel injection. It was kind of expensive at $79.00 but it saves me having to do fabricate something on the fuel tank (metal fabrication is not my strong suit).

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

The holes for the mounting screws did not line up with factory ones so I had to drill and tap new ones. I also carefully followed the instructions that came with the sender. The tank is almost exactly 10 inches deep. The return fuel line is supposed be submerged to within 1 inch of the bottom. The shape of the tank made it so that the return tube *just* made it. I ended up cutting the tube 9 and 1/8".

A note on the quality of the sending unit. The materials are nice - heavy stainless steel, quality screws, gasket, etc. However, I was surprised and dissapointed that the tube was not even welded square to the top mounting plate as you can see in the picture. Also, the mounting of the pivot arm to the sender was a little tricky and I had to tweak it a lot to get it where it looked right. For the money you'd think it would be better. As such I'm not sure I would recommend this product to others until I've had a chance to run it for a while and see how it does.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

The POR 15 treatment took me the better part of a day to complete and it was laborious. The basic steps are:

1. Rinse out tank with with water.
2. Mix 1 qt Marine Clean with 1 qt hot water. Slosh it around tank for 20 minutes. Drain and rinse with water.
3. Repeat step 2.
4. Pour bottle of Metal Ready in tank, slosh for 20 minutes. Leave tank sit in various positions for 30 minutes at a time - don't leave in more than 2 hours. Drain and rinse with water - again.
5. Dry tank completely. Really, really completely dry - no water period.
6. Pour in sealer - slosh slowly for 30 minutes - drain and don't allow it to puddle anywhere in tank.
7. Cure for four days.

As I said, it was laborious. It took me over and hour to drain the sealer. The directions say you could have problems if it puddles so I kept rolling it around, watching it drain, over and over.

To speed the drying process before the sealer I blew air into the tank by hooking up a shop-vac (the nozzle fits almost perfectly on the fill neck) and set the tank next to a propane heater. Did this for an hour. Who knows how much longer it would have taken if I hadn't.

Anyway, the inside of the tank does look damn good now. We'll see if it fixes my seams in a few more days. If you decide to try this make sure you have several hours and a couple of 5 gallon buckets for dumping the chemicals.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Finally, I primed and painted the fuel tank and mounted the new sender. I still have a ways to go but I think I can see headlights at the end of the tunnel .

 

[3doghouse]

Not that it does you any good at this point, but I would have recommended re-drilling the sending unit rather than drilling and tapping the tank.

 

[Shawn Russell]

Wow, that sure looks like a lot of wiring...

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Ahhh I was wondering how you plumbed the return line. I just got quote $90 for a local company to weld on a new fitting

I was thinking about adding a T-splice onto the vent for the filler neck at the top of the tank. Anyone know if that would work? Since the return is pressurized, will it spit out the gas cap or at least loose pressure and not work correctly?

I'm glad I'm watching this thread. Another $350 to get my tank selaed No thanks, looks like I'll be buying the same products as you.

 

[alex e]

can't wait to see the next step..............

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Ahhh I was wondering how you plumbed the return line. I just got quote $90 for a local company to weld on a new fitting

I was thinking about adding a T-splice onto the vent for the filler neck at the top of the tank. Anyone know if that would work? Since the return is pressurized, will it spit out the gas cap or at least loose pressure and not work correctly?

I'm glad I'm watching this thread. Another $350 to get my tank selaed No thanks, looks like I'll be buying the same products as you.

It's my understanding that the return fuel line is always supposed to be submerged. It is recommended that it be installed so it is within the bottom one inch of the tank.

The POR 15 kit was about $70. I still haven't filled the tank up yet so I don't know if it fixed my seams or not. I know there's other products out there that claim to do the same thing for a little less $$ but I went with POR 15 because I have always heard good things about their products.

 

[alex e]

No fuel separator up in tub?

 

[Trollhole]

Ahhh I was wondering how you plumbed the return line. I just got quote $90 for a local company to weld on a new fitting

I was thinking about adding a T-splice onto the vent for the filler neck at the top of the tank. Anyone know if that would work? Since the return is pressurized, will it spit out the gas cap or at least loose pressure and not work correctly?

I'm glad I'm watching this thread. Another $350 to get my tank selaed No thanks, looks like I'll be buying the same products as you.

No it won't spit gas. Mine is Teed right on top of the tank. Napa has some good low restriction connectors for this.

It's my understanding that the return fuel line is always supposed to be submerged. It is recommended that it be installed so it is within the bottom one inch of the tank.

The POR 15 kit was about $70. I still haven't filled the tank up yet so I don't know if it fixed my seams or not. I know there's other products out there that claim to do the same thing for a little less $$ but I went with POR 15 because I have always heard good things about their products.

Not nessessary that I have found. Works well coming out the top.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Not nessessary that I have found. Works well coming out the top.

Hmmm....more than one way to skin the cat it seems. Guess I should have asked before I went and bought that spendy sender .

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Small Progress

I haven't made any huge strides forward the during the last two weeks but I didn't want to go too long without posting some progess lest you guys think I'm a slacker. As such, none of the photos are particularly sexy and exciting. Rather, I spent time taking care of some little things that needed to be addressed. If you are planning this conversion some day you may find some of the follwing useful.

First, I got the throttle cable connected. I re-used the bracket from my old intake, just modified it slightly by cutting off the arm for the second bolt hole which didn't fit the new manifold. It's a little low, I may find something better at a later time.

Also, changed out the old water neck for the one pictured. This one has a 1/2" port for the water temp sender. The TBI intake doesn't have the port. And yes, it's chrome. I like chrome.