Builds My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build

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Salem747 said:
I am planning on Vintage Air for HVAC so not sure how everything will work until I have that to mock up. My wife and I were kind of thinking to keep the dash pads, looks like a not fun place to bump your knees (I am 6'4" and she is 5'9"). Assuming I will need to trim those too to fit a single DIN. This is the stereo we are thinking Pioneer Single DIN 6.8" Multimedia DVD Receiver with Bluetooth and Apple CarPlay (AVH3500NEX) It's on sale now but assume black friday etc will be fine later. We are still considering the dash, she like the retro look of the original pull knobs so we may try to retain some of those (hazard, maybe valve for rear heater?) I ordered the American autowire extreme wiring kit, probably don't need waterproof but for a $150 more I figure it's worth it. All my body panels are ready for the blaster, going to Kelowna tomorrow to pickup my frame and 3/4 tub along with paint. Kids will get to go to waterpark etc. Super excited, it's like daddy Christmas!

It's funny, I was telling her we should put the seats from my car in it (2008 M3 Sedan) and there you go putting in 335 seats! Do they have the power side bolsters in the driver's or is that only for M cars?
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Man I love Kelowna! Just hang out at Gyro beach all day! That's a nifty stereo! I bought the cheapest head unit ever. It was $25. I figured I only need AUX in and bluetooth and the amp does everything else. I'm using a 8" sub, 2x 6.5 speakers, 2 x 3.5" speakers, and a 500 W RMS amp all from SKAR.

The seats don't inflate in the sides. Just lumbar, heating, and of course direction. In the picture they're raised way up so they can be lowered I guess. I've got Vintage air as well. I have to slice up my glove box to fit the louver and speaker, and I'll have to put a 2.5" hole through both sides to fit the vent duct.. but who needs a glove box anyway!? I've got a ton of room in that center console, under the driver seat (that's where the amp is) and under the center console.

I'm making my own pull knobs from some cheap $10 1 position ones I found on ebay. 1 Pull Head Light Switch Push Pull Universal for Trucks & Cars 12 Volts 24 Volts | eBay

I'm free hand painting this stuff so it needs some touching up... especially the dome lights one!

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Yeah I really like the pull switches so I'm trying to keep that look as much as possible.

Does anyone know where I can find a passenger door? Mine is rusted beyond repair
 
I have 2. I have chosen the best of them. CCOT sells the lower door inner and outer skin so you can replace that part ( will probably be doing this even with my "better ones". There are people in different areas that seem to have body parts, there are a couple in BC, where I live and a bunch in Washington State. Surely there are some near you.
 
amico said:
Yeah my front and rear 3rd members have already been rebuilt with ARB lockers so I don't want to redo that. But I would sure have gone for that lower transfer case gearing. Like I said that alone would reduce 4.11's to 3.80's reducing a couple hundred RPM's at 65. Plus I'm running 34" tires which will help my RPM's.

By the Way, got mine installed this weekend.
My next real concern is the conflict between the Exhaust (Aftertreatment DOC) Canister and Front Drive Shaft, a lot happening in that very small area. May have to run forward under the oil pan then to the back. Going to have to study this, anyone else have any ideas they are certainly welcome by me. Sorry Arthur not trying to highjack your thread.

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Do you have any photos of the clearance between the back of the R2.8 and the firewall?

Sick build!!!
 
In the bottom picture I have a Blue Arrow pointing to what I believe is the EGR Valve. That is the closest thing to my firewall and it is about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". It is hard to see in middle picture but that is the closest contact I have. I didn't want it right up against the firewall because of the frame twisting and if I ever have to pull the engine I can't pull or replace the engine with any angel of attack.

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amico said:
In the bottom picture I have a Blue Arrow pointing to what I believe is the EGR Valve. That is the closest thing to my firewall and it is about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". It is hard to see in middle picture but that is the closest contact I have. I didn't want it right up against the firewall because of the frame twisting and if I ever have to pull the engine I can't pull or replace the engine with any angel of attack.

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Looks awesome! Can I buy motor mounts off of you? 😂
 
Thanks, I will have them off this weekend to drill frame and prep for powder coat if you need any measurements or pictures let me know. I would like to have raised the engine a little more in the engine bay but was trying to work with my existing FJ60 transmission mount I had previously installed for my V8. Looks like your setting your frame up for a reverse shackle setup. Is that a custom frame your frame looks great. Also like your paper weight holding your body to the trailer bed, do they work better than straps???
 
The frame is brand new from aqualu, along with the tub. Just picking them up with the family in kelowna. Yes the reversal was recommended for our overlanding style build. The frame and tub are 18" stretched.

I'm starting to think I should just build my own mounts. For me its looking like 600cad for a set seems like a lot. Are those fluid filled ones any good or do they fail and leak?

I was assuming I would just build a new x member. Something out of tube.
 
I used the AXIS engine side mounts ($174.00) and then fabricated the frame mounts out of 1/4" - 3"X5" tubing cut it at opposite corners to form an L shaped angel which worked out well for the frame width and depth. I have know welded a piece of 1/4" plate to the angel shape forming a upside down U over the frame, which I will bolt thru frame. Then I used a piece of square tubing and plate to weld to the frame piece and provide a way to bolt to the AXIS mounts. I had an advantage with my transmission mount in place gave me an anchor point to just center then raise and lower my engine where I wanted it.
I don't know how those fluid filled mounts work or how long they last. I have heard that many that have installed the 4BT say they use the fluid mounts because the vibration is teeth rattling. I have heard it called a paint shaker. Hopefully the R2.8 is tamer than that.
 
ArthurFJ said:
Yeah me neither... might have something to do with the rules on diesel conversions. Can't remember where I read it, but you can't do a diesel conversion on a car newer than '76
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Strange, I have an 83 with a 4BTA that is registered and titled in Texas. The conversion was done by the PO in Alvin, TX
 
Salem747 said:
Dont know the rules (I am keeping my mouth shut) but my understanding is that the r1.8 was legal up till a 99 or something repower, even in cali.
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I don't either, thought I'd share
 
Hey just found this thread! Awesome builds you guys have! Subbed (I think, I'm new here). I'm mainly here because I am planning something like this in my far future (currently a poor engineering student) but no harm in dreaming right? Anyways just looking around at R2.8 FJ40 builds to see all the things I will have to consider/overcome. Excited to see your guys progress. I might ask some questions here or there but I did already read this entire thread.
Cheers, Scott
:popcorn:
 
Salem747 said:
Is that the tuffy console? I thought the cupholders were on the floor.

Is it a 6.5" that fits? Assume the 8" is too wide.

I am trying to determine how much I need to open the stereo opening in the dash for a single din deck. I want the pioneer one where the screen comes out of the single. It has android auto so it clones your phone on the screen, then was thinking switches in the tuffy.
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Have you seen these radios?
Search results for: 'intel'
There are some more options for the single din with the big Android screens but don't fold away. Imho they look more sturdy. I'm not sure how long the folding mechanism on that pioneer one would hold up long term. Unless you were specifically looking for one that folds away, they might be worth looking at ;)
 
@ScottMilk I finished mining engineering in 2002, so have a bit more $ to spend on stupid $hit like this now. I also have 4 daughters too so that is a bit of a drain on the bank account.

Thanks for the link to the other deck options.
 
ScottMilk said:
One question I had, is that an inverter under the driver seat? Or part of the seat controls? Looks pretty big to be controls or just a nice high watt inverter
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Hello, Sorry for the late replay.. been away for a while. It's an amp for the stereo system. 500 W RMS from SKAR
 
ScottMilk said:
Have you seen these radios?
Search results for: 'intel'
There are some more options for the single din with the big Android screens but don't fold away. Imho they look more sturdy. I'm not sure how long the folding mechanism on that pioneer one would hold up long term. Unless you were specifically looking for one that folds away, they might be worth looking at ;)
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It's a rampage console. I put the serial number somewhere.. can't remember where. It's 8.5 inches wide. With the BMW seats I could have done a 10 inch console.

I have the CHEAPEST head unit right now. It was $25. I figure all the work is being done by the amp anyway.. all i need is AUX and bluetooth. A little TV could be nice though
 
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