Builds My New Project (1 Viewer)

[NikP]

Place window. Pry top into frame. Slide into position with attention paid to bottom.

 

[NikP]

Use plastic to to help rubber into place. Move to divider install.

 

[NikP]

Mate top corner and work into place.

 

[NikP]

Secure divider top and bottom.

 

[NikP]

Move to door handle and lock mechanism. Connect to latching component.

 

[NikP]

I’m going to like the glue on scraper seal. I’ll glue it at a later time after a polish and color sand a few spots on the door.

 

[RUSH55]

Awesome Nik!
Thank you for that tutorial!
Might need to make a separate thread dedicated to those last several posts.

 

[NikP]

I was able to get the tubing bender out and enjoy the weather today. I finished the fabrication work on the front bumper. It was too windy to do touch up paint in the cargo area so that'll be for another day and the headliner install has to wait. I don't want to screw with polishing compound on the new black headliner.

Now that the bumper is done I can optimize my black paint time and spray the grill, bumper and hood vents. Then it's wiring time.

 

[bobm]

Nice work Bud, looking good

 

[RUSH55]

Awesome! Love seeing this

 

[NikP]

Don't tell my wife I was baking car parts while she was gone.

I bought a piece of 1/8th thermo ABS plastic and created a form to mold up a dash gauge inset. I really didn't want a flat piece metal for a dash. Trial and error for a couple of hours as I tweaked my method and form. I think It turned out well enough, I won't have to order more ABS. I'll plan to do similar to form a glove box lid.

Ill clean it up and polish the edges later and do something different with mounting screws. Not sure exactly what yet. Itll depend if I paint the ABS. Not sure if I want to paint it some contrasting color or have an all black dash.

 

[RUSH55]

Killer!!

 

[NikP]

I was distracted from wiring and ended up putting the tailgate guts in. It gave me the chance to figure out what part of the window wiring harness is there or was destroyed by the previous owner.

 

[NikP]

I rigged up my grill lights to be two function for marker and turn signal. I bought an 1157 bulb socket and had a couple of marker light housings I was able to retro fit the socket into.

 

[NikP]

Finished product

 

[JLawson]

Really nice and cleanly done!

 

[bobm]

What side markers????

 

[NikP]

What side markers????

The marker light housing I used were the side lights from the body on the 40 and 55. I just needed something that would take the socket for the 1157 bulb. The hole pattern was the same exact width as the grill light Corolla KE20 amber lights.

 

[bobm]

Thank you Sir!

 

[PabloCruise]

Sorry I didn't document as I went, it's a three hand job sometimes. I have one more window to install, so I'll try to capture pictures.

On the rear fixed window, I used lots of soapy water. Place the gasket around the glass and place the glass about midway in the doorway. You'll have a couple of inches of rubber into the track to make sure it's started. Place the bottom of the glass first, this allows you to manipulate the top a bit and since it's in the middle of the door, the top of the door has some flex to let the gasket slide into place. Trust me, the glass doesn't just slide into place the first time, or the second time, or the third,... I worked each side for 30-60 minutes. Once you've got the top and bottom situated, you can stand at the edge of the door and pull the glass/rubber toward what is the rear of the door. Be slow, make sure the glass slides horizontally or the rubber messes up and you have to start again. I could get the rubber close and then I used a plastic trim and molding tool from Harbor Freight to poke and push the rubber into to place and slide along the lip to help the rubber move into proper place.

Once into place, place the door runners (felt) in the track of the door. I used FAIRCHILD 06348 Door Window Glass Channel from RockAuto.com. Four 8 foot sections - Total Cost $83.73.

Place the runner in the divider section. Install the window regulator (if not already installed). Insert the glass into the door and attached the bottom to the regulator. Jamb the glass into the door runner track that's permanent in the door. If it's new runner, it will likely hold the glass while you insert the window divider section (for the rear, or the wing window divider for the front). As you install the divider, make sure the runner groove starts to mate up with the corner of the window glass. The divider will go in at an angle and you'll be able to position it more upright as it's inserted.

Once the divider is in place, I raised the window part way to ensure it was tracking and it also holds the divider in place while you insert screws in the door frame and bolt the bottom in place.

I was installing the rubber from Slocruisers and it's a reproduction so it probably is a bit more effort than stock rubber (assuming it's still available). You'll have to make sure all the tracks are clear and not stuck together from manufacturing.


Key learning:
The window can't be installed without the dividers being removed (both front and back). The newer model front glass probably has enough angle that it can but the older model with the wing window can't.

Make sure the glass get's inserted into the runner before you get too far and keep making sure it's still in the runner as you go.

The rubber around the stationary rear window, pinches and gets dislodged easy as you try to slide it so repeat and have patience. (lots of patience)



Next on the list, is to attempt the wiper strip (scraper seal). I opted for a glue-on option since I didn't want to mess with all the little metal clippy things and embedding them into the wiper strip. I'm attempting to use Part # 70-3804-61 Outer Beltline and 70-0961-60 Weatherstrip Beltline from Steele Rubber Products.

I'll post up pictures of that effort.

Good stuff!

I remember my efforts with the rear door fixed glass. I got part way through and punted to a glass guy that does street rod glass. He got it done, but chipped the paint in a few spots, which was disappointing. I wonder what is more disappointing - doing it yourself and chipping paint, or paying someone and they chip the paint?

I also remember feeling the need to be an octopus and have ~8 arms to get everything in. I think I gave up when I thought I needed to have the metal divider in first, and then install the glass. Good on you for discovering to put the runner, regulator and glass in first, and then the divider at an angle - that will make all the difference for someone!

No factory rubber available for the fixed window rubber.