That sucks. Try to keep the buzzards away until you can get healthy and complete your project.
Builds My New Project
- Thread starter NikP
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Damn, I was just going to put dibbs on the tail gate handle. 
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Sucks dude. Same issue here but fatigue. 1/2 day of tinkering and 2 days of rest. Sucks. Too much fun to get rid of though. Invite some buddies over
- Thread starter
- #304
Yesterday was one of those rare August days where temp in the garage wasn't over 100 degrees. I had just changed oil in the family car and was staring at my neglected 55. It need a little love. I spent clearing the debris that had accumulated over time keeping it locked in the garage. I started it up and maneuvered it out into the driveway where I topped off the brake fluid and bled brakes and then it was off to the end of the street to see if it would drive.
I was worried about my self-rebuilt transmission, but all seemed okay. It shifted smoothly into 3 gears and reverse even worked to turn me around at the end of the street. (Notice I went up the hill in the neighborhood in the event I had problems I could coast it home...) All ended well.
Then with a bit of satisfaction under my belt. I grabbed my 320 grit paper and spent 4 hours under the shade tree in the final sanding stage.... I might actually get it painted this year if I keep this up.
I was worried about my self-rebuilt transmission, but all seemed okay. It shifted smoothly into 3 gears and reverse even worked to turn me around at the end of the street. (Notice I went up the hill in the neighborhood in the event I had problems I could coast it home...) All ended well.
Then with a bit of satisfaction under my belt. I grabbed my 320 grit paper and spent 4 hours under the shade tree in the final sanding stage.... I might actually get it painted this year if I keep this up.
Good to see you can enjoy it again.
Alright, we call that a win! Glad you're feeling a bit better about it all. Pig Party 2018, just say'n.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Little drive puts a and makes all the difference in the world.
and makes all the difference in the world.
- Thread starter
- #308
I need some advice.
My high steer kit puts the tie rod to the rear of the axle. The tie rod is directly above the mounting point for the front sway bar. (I have 60 axles and stock sway bar.). I haven’t built mounts on the frame yet for the sway bar links and was wanting to fab something up.
I need to move the sway bar end two inches to the rear so the links miss the tie rod. Not sure how to do that.
I could cut my sway bar and extend it with a sleeve. Not sure if that’s a good idea. Is it?
I’m also trying to envision some offset link but not sure of that either.
I could scrap the sway bar, but not sure I want to based on my FJ40 without one.
My high steer kit puts the tie rod to the rear of the axle. The tie rod is directly above the mounting point for the front sway bar. (I have 60 axles and stock sway bar.). I haven’t built mounts on the frame yet for the sway bar links and was wanting to fab something up.
I need to move the sway bar end two inches to the rear so the links miss the tie rod. Not sure how to do that.
I could cut my sway bar and extend it with a sleeve. Not sure if that’s a good idea. Is it?
I’m also trying to envision some offset link but not sure of that either.
I could scrap the sway bar, but not sure I want to based on my FJ40 without one.
I didn't have any luck with cutting and welding a sway bar, it lasted 30 min. in Moab. I'd rethink the offset mount.
Good hearing from you, we need some updates.
Good hearing from you, we need some updates.
- Thread starter
- #310
Yep I’m trying to get updates. It’s sat for a year and I’m feeling guilty.
Did you weld yours on the end or somewhere in the middle? I’m thinking the end doesn’t quite have the torsional stress and I might get lucky. Your post #275 is a good view of the sway bar, but where your link is shown it runs into my tie rod.
I could build a link that would be a “u” shape surrounding the tie rod but I might get kicked out of the forum for how it might look.
If the link didn’t have to be vertical I could make something work but I’m thinking vertical is preferred or even required.
Did you weld yours on the end or somewhere in the middle? I’m thinking the end doesn’t quite have the torsional stress and I might get lucky. Your post #275 is a good view of the sway bar, but where your link is shown it runs into my tie rod.
I could build a link that would be a “u” shape surrounding the tie rod but I might get kicked out of the forum for how it might look.
If the link didn’t have to be vertical I could make something work but I’m thinking vertical is preferred or even required.
I tried to shorten the rear sway bar more toward the outer end right before it bent to go up, granted I should have sleeved it. I would think you could design a u shaped mount to satisfy the group.
- Thread starter
- #312
...
A swaybar will 100% not last welded.
In my brief experience modifying sway bars it was always heat & bend, never cut & weld.
- Thread starter
- #315
Finally got around to heating and bending the sway bar. I have to build a frame mount so need to make a run to the scrap metal yard. How heavy do these need to be? I get the impression from the axle brackets they don’t need to be super heavy. 1/4 or 3/16?
I extended my rear sway bar links by using a bmw strut shaft and welding stock ends on it. Got them installed.
I then focused my energy to other items needing my attention under the vehicle. I built up a cross over pipe for the exhaust. PITA since my high steer puts the tie rod on the rear. I had to drop down and wrap around the front of the oil pan. My SOA is high enough I could have dropped under the pan but it wouldn’t be nicely tucked in. I never do things the easy way. I had it all welded up and installed and the driver’s side O2 sensor hit the frame so had to completely remove and reposition.
I extended my rear sway bar links by using a bmw strut shaft and welding stock ends on it. Got them installed.
I then focused my energy to other items needing my attention under the vehicle. I built up a cross over pipe for the exhaust. PITA since my high steer puts the tie rod on the rear. I had to drop down and wrap around the front of the oil pan. My SOA is high enough I could have dropped under the pan but it wouldn’t be nicely tucked in. I never do things the easy way. I had it all welded up and installed and the driver’s side O2 sensor hit the frame so had to completely remove and reposition.
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Sway bars are heat treated springs, as far as I know if you heat them enough to bend them you will change the heat treat making them no longer a spring but a chunk of bendy steel instead. Might want to take a few minutes looking into this before you spend a bunch of time making mounts.
Exhaust pipes look great!!!
- Thread starter
- #317
Yep I know I’m taking a chance. Planning to bolt the mount to the frame for easy removal in the event of failure. Then I can scrap the sway bar idea entirely and just rely on the stock rear sway bar. Lots of Internet input on heating and bending so hopefully I’m in the successful outcome group.
- Thread starter
- #318
Exhaust Done!
Nice Job!
- Thread starter
- #320
Productive day in the garage. Fabricated two sway bar brackets. I was going to bolt them on in case I needed to remove them later but scrapped that idea since the frame is double there and I didn't have clearance like I thought. I just welded them on.
Then I installed shocks but found the threads of one of the top rear is stripped. I guess I'll run the threads with a smaller nut. I need to figure out what threads are stock.
Then I installed shocks but found the threads of one of the top rear is stripped. I guess I'll run the threads with a smaller nut. I need to figure out what threads are stock.
