bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Ya you have too. Damn things didn't come from factory as nice as you guys are making them. They'll deduct points for originality.
Builds My New Project
- Thread starter NikP
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I had the same battle with my door hitting the upper fender. I ended up grinding on the contact point on the fender and slightly bending it up on the radius. It didn't take a lot of work or really effect the line of the door and fender. Count your blessing , you're still in the primer stage. The worst part was that I had the finish paint on and had to make the repair and re-paint.
- Thread starter
- #263
Progressing well and trying to enjoy the time away from the stress of a job.
Rather than focus on paint and body, I changed plans to help energize my motivational state by working to get the engine started. I figured with my bad back, pushing and pulling in and out of the garage isn't smart. The goal is to be able to drive it in and out. I'll mean a little rework along the way but it will be good to have it running since I've never heard it run.
This week I traced wires and tried to remember where I left it 2 years ago. I spent a bunch of time researching electronic pedals since my harness didn't plug into it. I think I have a corvette pedal but a truck harness so I think it's as easy as swapping in a new Delphi connector and repinning it. Keep the fingers crossed.
Today I stubbed out the exhaust so I can install O2 sensors to minimize the potential codes and issues with start up. Next, figure out the minimal fuses and wiring needed. I think all I need it to hook the EZ Wiring harness keyed pier to the engine relays, run a wire to the starter and fuel pump. Then turn the key?
Hopefully in a week or two I can post sounds of progress.
Glad to hear you're healing up!
- Thread starter
- #265
Hopefully only a minor setback.
Wired up enough to turn over the motor to check oil pressure before hooking up the ECU for a run attempt. Turned the key and the motor doesn't turn. Appears to be seized. It's probably been 5 years since it was in a car and run. I thought about shooting oil in the cylinders long ago and never got around to it. Lesson learned I guess.
Now I'm soaking with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Hopefully that does the trick and I can get on to running it.
Any advice is welcome.
Wired up enough to turn over the motor to check oil pressure before hooking up the ECU for a run attempt. Turned the key and the motor doesn't turn. Appears to be seized. It's probably been 5 years since it was in a car and run. I thought about shooting oil in the cylinders long ago and never got around to it. Lesson learned I guess.
Now I'm soaking with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Hopefully that does the trick and I can get on to running it.
Any advice is welcome.
If the clutch cover is off the bottom, try moving the flywheel with a pry bar. put a ( small ) pry bar in the teeth and rock back and forth, if possible.
- Thread starter
- #267
Yep, only a minor setback.
Engine freely turns after a night soaking with AFT/Acetone in each cylinder. It took a little coaxing with a pryer but now it spins freely with the starter and the plugs removed. Unfortunately, I won't have time today to see if it will fire up. I believe I'm going to remove the fuel injectors and make sure they are in good working order before it attempt a start. I'm tired of chasing gremlins afterward.
Engine freely turns after a night soaking with AFT/Acetone in each cylinder. It took a little coaxing with a pryer but now it spins freely with the starter and the plugs removed. Unfortunately, I won't have time today to see if it will fire up. I believe I'm going to remove the fuel injectors and make sure they are in good working order before it attempt a start. I'm tired of chasing gremlins afterward.
- Thread starter
- #268
Woo hoo! It's alive.
What a great feeling to know all the wiring isn't screwed up and it starts and runs as it should. It intimidated me along the way but small steps at a time.
Now I have to figure out why the transmission doesn't turn. It turned a bit early but not anymore. Fluids are good, I think I didn't correctly seat the torque converter and hope I didn't mess anything up. Something else to tear apart an redo and learn from.
What a great feeling to know all the wiring isn't screwed up and it starts and runs as it should. It intimidated me along the way but small steps at a time.
Now I have to figure out why the transmission doesn't turn. It turned a bit early but not anymore. Fluids are good, I think I didn't correctly seat the torque converter and hope I didn't mess anything up. Something else to tear apart an redo and learn from.
Sounds good!
- Thread starter
- #270
Okay... big rookie mistake with the transmission. I ignored all the signs of not having the torque converter properly seated (like I had never done this before) My seized engine probably wasn't seized... it was the transmission bound up not allowing the engine to turn. I should have stopped as I was thinking the engine seems bound in the transmission as I was laying on my back with a screwdriver turning the flex plate hearing it crunch as is broke the pump vein mechanism.
The pump gears ended up broken and the local transmission shop swapped out the pump for a cool $100. He found two teflon O-rings were cut on the original install and I would have need to pull the transmission anyway. All is well that ends well...
Now the task of bolting it all back together.....
The pump gears ended up broken and the local transmission shop swapped out the pump for a cool $100. He found two teflon O-rings were cut on the original install and I would have need to pull the transmission anyway. All is well that ends well...
Now the task of bolting it all back together.....
, I forgot you have an auto. I only admit to half of all my screw ups. Yours wasn't too bad, glad you got it sorted out. Can't wait to see it in paint.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I always love being reminded that I am not the only one who does really dumb things!
Sounds like you are on the path to victory!
Sounds like you are on the path to victory!
- Thread starter
- #273
I need to figure out my direction on a brake booster and master. I saw a BTB combo set up on the classifieds and got to looking. I think I can piece it together myself from eBay for about $140 shipped vs $329 price they want. I'll have to drill holes in a different place for the booster but I'm not sure that really matters.
Staying with Toyota options seems a bit pricey for little to no difference since I'll need a booster, master and a proportioning valve.
Next get a driveline lengthened and add a double cardan joint. I'll wait on the front for a while. I'd like to see if I can get a smaller diameter driveshaft to provide more clearance for the transmission pan. I think I've got enough to avoid any pan mods but I'm crossing my fingers that adding the cv joint won't crowd it too. Inch.
- Thread starter
- #274
I did have to drill different holes in the firewall, but nobody sees them so it doesn't matter.
As with most of my efforts I'll have to re-do my mounting brackets for the ECM since I need a couple more inches. One step forward, one step back. I'm even.
Looks good! Will the clutch master bolt up with no interference? How do you like the top of the dash after cutting the seam? I like the clean look of it with no padding.
- Thread starter
- #276
Not sure on clutch master but I'm automatic so I plugged hole and left bolts to hold pedal mechanism. It should clear. I'll check later just to let others know.
Yes I like the clean dash so I copied your idea. It would be different if we could buy the padding.
Thinking about instrument panel and going to try molding Kydex to have an inset look for the gauges. (Not fond of flat panels). I always seem to take the road less traveled.
Yes I like the clean dash so I copied your idea. It would be different if we could buy the padding.
Thinking about instrument panel and going to try molding Kydex to have an inset look for the gauges. (Not fond of flat panels). I always seem to take the road less traveled.
Damn, you'd think I'd remember you have the auto. and not seeing the hole in the firewall.
- Thread starter
- #278
Nothing is ever easy.
I tried to see if my stock radiator would be an option. I think I'm going to have to go the route scrapdaddy and liljohn did and buy the Griffin 128202 with inlet and outlet on the passenger side. It'll just be a cleaner install and I won't have to second guess if the stock radiator will keep things cool.
Scrapdaddy, does your lower radiator nipple set at an angle. I saw where it can be ordered with a straight out option or what looks to be angled. I wondered if there's a preference.
The upper hose routing with stock gets to be rediculous given the throttle body intake and all the angles. The bottom is very close to the fan. There's probably enough clearance but questionable.
I tried to see if my stock radiator would be an option. I think I'm going to have to go the route scrapdaddy and liljohn did and buy the Griffin 128202 with inlet and outlet on the passenger side. It'll just be a cleaner install and I won't have to second guess if the stock radiator will keep things cool.
Scrapdaddy, does your lower radiator nipple set at an angle. I saw where it can be ordered with a straight out option or what looks to be angled. I wondered if there's a preference.
The upper hose routing with stock gets to be rediculous given the throttle body intake and all the angles. The bottom is very close to the fan. There's probably enough clearance but questionable.
My outlets are straight, but don't do what I did and forget to measure the motor outlets dia. You can have that changed on the radiator, they are different. A lot of bends and not a lot of room, but doable.
- Thread starter
- #280
Did I ever mention how much I dislike plumbing?
You spend all sorts of meticulous time only the watch your work drip when it's time to turn the water on.
The same applies for making my own brake lines. My double flares leak. Maybe I just need to buy a spanner wrench and keep torquing the fitting down. I'm afraid of stripping the fitting with a normal wrench.
You spend all sorts of meticulous time only the watch your work drip when it's time to turn the water on.
The same applies for making my own brake lines. My double flares leak. Maybe I just need to buy a spanner wrench and keep torquing the fitting down. I'm afraid of stripping the fitting with a normal wrench.
