- Thread starter
- #101
Me either
Builds My new 60 rebuild thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter S.CarolinaFZJ80
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- Thread starter
- #102
Started on my Dobinson lift instal yesterday.
I got the rear springs & yellow "comfort" shocks installed.
I ended up removing a leaf as others have done. (Pic borrowed from mud, @wrndog I think)
I removed the 3rd one in the stack, I.e. the 3rd shortest. It is the first one that doesn't have the retainer.
I put some red & tacky lithium grease in between the leafs too. Hopefully that will help keep them quiet for awhile.
Note that a zip tie works way better than weed eater line to distribute the grease in between the leafs
I got the rear springs & yellow "comfort" shocks installed.
I ended up removing a leaf as others have done. (Pic borrowed from mud, @wrndog I think)
I removed the 3rd one in the stack, I.e. the 3rd shortest. It is the first one that doesn't have the retainer.
I put some red & tacky lithium grease in between the leafs too. Hopefully that will help keep them quiet for awhile.
Note that a zip tie works way better than weed eater line to distribute the grease in between the leafs
- Thread starter
- #103
I also encountered that the stock exhaust would not clear the spring shackle for removal so it had to be removed.
I may reverse it and test it out if greasing that upper zero becomes an issue.
Luckily I had a new stock exhaust, hardware, isolators and gasket on hand to put in.
My old one had a couple holes and needed replacing.
I may reverse it and test it out if greasing that upper zero becomes an issue.
Luckily I had a new stock exhaust, hardware, isolators and gasket on hand to put in.
My old one had a couple holes and needed replacing.
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- Thread starter
- #104
Never been able to figure out if greasing in between leaf springs is good or bad. On one hand, it'll keep them quiet, keep them from binding, keep water out, etc. On the other hand grease is a dust and dirt magnet.
What say the keepers of such wisdom here on Mud?
- Thread starter
- #106
For what it's worth most of it squeezed out when compressed.
- Thread starter
- #107
Shiny new cat back parts!
- Thread starter
- #108
Here is a shot of the Dobinson 2" lift installed, purchased from @crikeymike. It rides great
I also added 4 degree caster shims & rear spring pin spacers from @cruiseroutfit
Extended sway bar links from the local auto parts store
I also added 4 degree caster shims & rear spring pin spacers from @cruiseroutfit
Extended sway bar links from the local auto parts store
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- Thread starter
- #109
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- #110
I added a passenger dash grab bar from an FJ62. I hated to drill the dash but it really is a functional improvement.
I reinforced the dash with 1/4" aluminum plate and large fender washer on each side. It is rock solid!
With the glove box removed, the passenger side was easy to access but the driver side required removing the dash brace (6 bolts) & the hvac ducting (2 screws)
It is a brown bar but the lighting on the 1st photo makes it look grey. To the eye it is brown although a different shade than the dash pad
The bar bolt requires an 8mm hole to be drilled
I found center on each side then made a cardboard template to ensure proper placement on either side of the glovebox opening.
Measure 10 times and drill pilot hole once.
I reinforced the dash with 1/4" aluminum plate and large fender washer on each side. It is rock solid!
With the glove box removed, the passenger side was easy to access but the driver side required removing the dash brace (6 bolts) & the hvac ducting (2 screws)
It is a brown bar but the lighting on the 1st photo makes it look grey. To the eye it is brown although a different shade than the dash pad
The bar bolt requires an 8mm hole to be drilled
I found center on each side then made a cardboard template to ensure proper placement on either side of the glovebox opening.
Measure 10 times and drill pilot hole once.
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- Thread starter
- #111
I replaced the Dayco wiper blades with some Toyota Sightline 18" blades too.
The Dayco's were streaking after a year.
The sightlines are smooth with the 4Runner arm mod that I previously did.
The passenger side blade is longer than the original by about 2". It doesn't contact the windshield at the outer edge while at park but it does once the arm moves up a few inches and clears more water from the windshield at eye level
Edit: 20" wiper blades will work on both sides. I just pulled a 20" from my 80 series and tried it on both sides of the 60. The 20" blades provide much more coverage along with angling the 4Runner arms up a bit. This pic still has the 18" arms installed though
The Dayco's were streaking after a year.
The sightlines are smooth with the 4Runner arm mod that I previously did.
The passenger side blade is longer than the original by about 2". It doesn't contact the windshield at the outer edge while at park but it does once the arm moves up a few inches and clears more water from the windshield at eye level
Edit: 20" wiper blades will work on both sides. I just pulled a 20" from my 80 series and tried it on both sides of the 60. The 20" blades provide much more coverage along with angling the 4Runner arms up a bit. This pic still has the 18" arms installed though
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- Thread starter
- #112
I also replaced all of the door seals with Precision seals from Summit.
They are exactly copies of the stock seals.
I added inner door seals too. I used generic seal from Amazon,
50' was enough to do all 4 doors and the tailgate lip with enough left over to do a 2nd tailgate.
However, with the new Precision hatch seal installed, the hatch would not close with this on the tailgate lip.
The new seals and inner seals really block out all the wind noise. It's a big improvement. Time will tell if the Amazon seal holds up but for the price it's hard to beat cost wise.
They are exactly copies of the stock seals.
I added inner door seals too. I used generic seal from Amazon,
However, with the new Precision hatch seal installed, the hatch would not close with this on the tailgate lip.
The new seals and inner seals really block out all the wind noise. It's a big improvement. Time will tell if the Amazon seal holds up but for the price it's hard to beat cost wise.
- Thread starter
- #113
Pulled the tint off the hatch glass yesterday.
It looked nice a black from the outside but from the inside it was streaky and hazy. There were 2 layers of tint on there. Jeez that was time consuming and tedious.
It will get replaced with a light UV film at some point.
Still have the cargo and 2nd row glass to remove. Figured I'd start with the toughest most time consuming window.
Noticed a break in the defroster tab ground tab on the passenger side.
Wondering if this can be soldered back together with a low voltage solder gun or bridged with a small wire
Has anyone tried this type of repair?
It looked nice a black from the outside but from the inside it was streaky and hazy. There were 2 layers of tint on there. Jeez that was time consuming and tedious.
It will get replaced with a light UV film at some point.
Still have the cargo and 2nd row glass to remove. Figured I'd start with the toughest most time consuming window.
Noticed a break in the defroster tab ground tab on the passenger side.
Wondering if this can be soldered back together with a low voltage solder gun or bridged with a small wire
Has anyone tried this type of repair?
Gently sand the surface of the strip on either side of the break, put some blue masking tape around it to protect the glass, then fill it in with conductive paint pen. I successfully repaired several broken tracks on my defroster that way.
- Thread starter
- #115
Thanks for the tip. Is there any particular brand that you've found success with? Should I reinforce the paint with wire?
I think the one I used was from MG Chemical
RevISK
SILVER Star
What auto store had energy suspension sway bar links?
- Thread starter
- #118
Advance
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- #119
Thanks. I just ordered some of their silver variant to try
Both of my rear defroster tabs are dangling, have been contemplating something like this:
https://a.co/d/3R1TXou
https://a.co/d/3R1TXou
