Builds My LC 80 thread. (2 Viewers)

[Dave 2000]

I do not use the Facebook or Twitter, I know many people who use it and often see it almost ruling their lives. I do not have that kind of time.


TBH, I had become so angry not so much about the tyre, but the rep who simply blew me off that I did consider opening a Facebook and even a Twitter account. The trouble with things like this, is that can make you become bent and consumed by the whole sorry affair. IMO it is better to say '**** YOU @Yokohama and say it how it is and move on.

I have no doubt that 'Mudders' who have read and continue to follow this thread, recognise I may be controversial, I may be blunt, but if I am if nothing else, I am honest!

If my Yokohama Geolander review costs Yokohama the sale of a couple of sets of tyres then that will have to do, I have a life to live.


regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Hi Dave.

my apologies for not responding to your pictures sooner, I actually tried to, but the for some reason the forum wont show my google images pics any more and so the reply got started and abandoned, twice in fact..

truck looking good amigo, my only constructive comment would be that I personally would have to colour-code that orange top strap a bit better

re the Yokohamas, sorry to hear about this, but it may encourage you to know that I have just bought a (very rare) set of 4 stud Audi RS4 wheels for my cabrio on ebay, and am having 4 new tyres fitted before delivery here, and Yokohamas were still on the short-list, now I think it will be definitely Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 3's instead, so there, that's 4 Yokohama are not selling, directly because of you

As an internet pro, I would agree with trolling them on Twitter if you want results (well, a response at least)

and on the truck, I personally will be sticking to my BFGs at renewal, as I often take mine crunching around in the woods and low undergrowth, even at lowered pressures, and after several years of that, plus all the other clambering around over sharp hard rocks, I'm fairly confident that "I ain't afraida no twig.."

 

[kevsta]

btw Dave I've just been chatting to Julian from Overland Cruisers in the UK, re OME standard height but uprated coils.

and my interim solution might also suit you as she looks like she's feeling the weight a bit when loaded. have you measured bottom of wheel rim to arch when she's fully laden? standard height is 725mm at front and 750ish rear.

Given my recent extra weight, Ive decided to sort the suspension out on an interim basis (ie before lifting and homologation) taking the tyres up to 55lbs helped a lot with the sudden heavy feeling and oversteer, but she's definitely lost height, and I dont like it.

this is what Julian said

Julian Voelcker OK. If you had the (OME) 2861s at the front - they will give you 10mm lift and up to 110kgs on the front axle and then 2862s on the rear axle which will give you around 20mm lift and medium load capacity. That combination works well for those not wanting a lift and carrying tools and then also towing.,
​

this will allow me to carry the weight comfortably, plus add the bumpers etc on an ad hoc basis and then come back to the proper lift in a year or two when Im ready for all that paperwork and know my exact weights and distribution.

 

[Dave 2000]

My late friend had an 80 and he used it with the roof rack and RTT you see on mine. He also had OME, I will dig the numbers out, I defo have them somewhere. He said the only problem he found was when the vehicle is lightly loaded, the front tended to wander, he had offset bushes put in the front arms and that cured it. I would do some measurable road testing before you alter the suspension, we did that when I changed the rear springs on the car you have (different 80), before and after and changing the rear altered nothing but height on yours.

I would make sure you have an alignment check done first, keep the print out. That way if you find issues after you will be able to dial in any castor if need be?

Re mine, despite all that weight it did not go down as far as I thought it would. I am so happy with the way the car is when empty or loaded I am not sure of my direction with suspension changes if any? I may just go for a new set of OE springs/shocks and bushes, IMO Mr T got it pretty close first time around.

Nice to hear I/we have cost Yokohama a sale of a set of tyres. Given the grief I had trying to change the tyres within Spanish law, I may have to bite the bullet and go through the alterations all legal. But for now I cannot afford to throw the tyres away, so going to concentrate on getting all the little jobs I have started, finished!

Let me know how you go with the suspension.

regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

was your friend using standard height or the 2.5" lift? as I gather, castor etc is not affected until 2" and above?

the rear coils I have are these I believe? Suspension Coil Spring Rear (pair) Obk (20% Stronger) for Toyota Uk / Europe Land Cruiser HDJ80 - 4.2TD 1990-1998 UK/IMPORT

..allegedly "20% stronger" but in practice seemingly not so much. I have a 60kg roof rack and approx 120kg inboard now, and the rear now measures 725mm bottom rim to arch, which is the same as the front, on old stock springs, but with a 30mm spacer in there too, so significant sag at both ends now.

interestingly the rear always felt hard and bouncy unloaded, and it wasnt until I got to +100kg (rack and main tools) that the ride sorted itself out a bit. now at just under 200kg it 's like the coils are under permanent heavy load even before road movement, I suspect it would be very easy to bottom it out on rough stuff like this. (I havent tried)

im not ready to properly lift / bumpers / homologate it yet before next year's test, possibly even the year after, and so definitely need to do something, this seems like the way forwards.

the 2861 / 2 combo seems well-liked here Opinions on OME "Low Height" suspension kit from CruiserOutfitters? and given that you can use OEM shocks, will almost definitely slide past the ITV inspectors, possibly even with spacers lifting it 30-40mm in total. that will likely do me for the next season or two, I think..

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi Kev, yes there are a lot of opinions about whether the mild lift affects castor or not, by the very physics of it there has to be some changes, it is how much it changes that matters. The 1990 model was wandering very bad after a 21/2" OME lift, that was when he had the castor brought back to OE by the offset bushes. He was unsure of the alignment before it was done, so went for the check, castor was off, changed the bushes and all was good.

The rear springs you have on yours (1993 IIRC?) were stock height but HD? I was working on the two different 80's at the same time, and it was a long time ago so a I am a bit fuzzy on that.

This is why I said get a baseline alignment, so you don't make the same mistake I did many years ago. It was on my Land Rover Discovery, I was trying to get the best compromise for competitions and road use. Over a couple of days I replaced everything bar the axle casings. Springs/shocks/ARB locking diffs/heavy duty CV's/axle shafts/double cardon prop shaft/wheels and a whole shedload of other stuff.

I had some bad vibration and noise issues immediately after. Because I had changed so much in one go I was at a loss as to what was causing the issues, it turned out I had two problems, one was a weird block weight that was missing from the front axle, it had been removed before I got the vehicle so did not know it was missing, no vibes stock but the alteration to the suspension height upset the car. Another was a whine, this turned out to be the new rear differential, it had to be sent back to the UK.

So, baseline everything height/ hands off steering wheel looking for wandering/ braking with hands off steering, and of course the alignment, do this first and you will have some data to refer back too.

Something else that can slip by unnoticed Kev and I see you are in 'research mode'. Springs can be made with a variable rate, this helps a vehicle have similar ride characterises whether loaded or not. I am unsure if all the various aftermarket springs we see out there today have this, or are simply a pieces of wire of different strengths wound into shape and advertised as the next best thing since sliced bread. OME has a good reputation and the ones fitted to my friends 1990 model felt good when not loaded, I was never in it when it was loaded, but he never complained.

Keep in touch mate,

regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

thanks Dave, good advice, I will do all of that first. especially as I have a woop woop kinda whining at around 40mph+ that I think is one of the UJs, so will be pulling the front driveshaft and locking the CDL for a little drive to see if it's still there or not.

but if my setup is coming back to OEM height to start, then alignment has to should in theory be somewhere near factory settings?

so winter projects - front axle rebuild, then UJs, then new coils. then trans cooler, then turbo plus intercooler***, then then then..

BTW what's your opinion on this? I am thinking that with a years driving dirt on it, my ITV station would have no clue that's not how it came out of the factory..

also in Red anodized, for anybody wanting to make it stand out, rather than fade in

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi Kev, somehow missed this post of yours, got to say mate that looks hot! Would I like to do that to my car 80.................ABSOLUTLY!!

That does look the 'mutts nuts' mate, is that something you have seen in the flesh or a picture from elsewhere? That has to be one of the neatest intercooler installs I have ever seen on an 80.

When I see things like that it makes me think about returning to the UK to get away from the bureaucracy.....na.....just joking, but if I get bored after getting the welding done, the two new solar panels, the possible change (again) of tyres, the...and the..oh...and that and........

You know what I mean mate.

Going to see Yokohama rep Monday am, then the welding man, then prep up for the ITV due the following week.

Take it easy,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So, with the meeting with the Yokohama rep seemingly going well, waiting on a welding quote and all seems well with the car.

Which brings me to say Happy Birthday, 'she' is 22 years old today and showing 253,000 ish miles, still doing great service.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update:

Not a lot going on been busy with work, so much for semi retirement!

Oil and filter changed this morning, just realised I did not check the mileage...blonde moment, so sort that later.

EDIT: Mileage 254,058

A couple of odds and ends to tidy up for the annual inspection, handbrake, indicator repeater, and fix the mud flap I broke earlier in the year, inspection booked for 27th this month.

Whilst here I will take a moment to wish all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Today 28/12/2016 254, 104 miles.

Pre check for the yearly inspection, I had done some wading last week in the floods we had. I ferried a couple of charity people over to a dog shelter, the rambla's had flooded and a Land Rover TD5 and a Mitsubishi were turned back, the owner of a second Mitsubishi decided it was too risky. So, with steady bow wave at bonnet height I took the 80 through. Dogs got fed and watered and we came back across all in a days work for the LC.

I did note some water had got into the headlights so took them apart to clean and dry them. Checked the rest of the lights and the right hand repeater was out, changed the bulb still out, followed the wires and it was unplugged? I was working in that area a few weeks back, I do not remember unplugging it so must have gave it a tug and pulled it loose? Either way an easy fix, all other lights good.

Adjusted the handbrake, considering the brakes were rebuilt just over a year ago I could not believe it when I found the L/H side hand brake was sticking! I was pushed for time so did the best I could in the time I had, a few squirts of WD 40 and that would have to do.

Gave her a wash and off I went, it is a one hour round trip to the test station as nothing local to me, test went OK except one of the number plate lights went out, bloody typical! I got a 'insufficient light output' warning but the car was passed for another year. That one bulb being out can generate a fail, but if the tester calls age/dirt then it is a warning. The plastic covers are opaque and the screws rusted in, something else for next year. The brake tester confirmed my thoughts earlier with the brakes returning the following numbers:

Service brake:

Front left 3.26
Front right 3.29
Rear left 3.58
Rear right 3.55

So foot brake appears to have some air in the front, the numbers having a reversal on last year with the rears showing greater performance than the front, although side to side balance is good, the rear activated the ABS as they started to lock, so I guess another bleeding session on the front!

Hand brake:

Left 2.04
Right 3.29

I will look into the modified dog bones at a later date, so much to do and so little time to do it! Other than that 'she' is running great and set for another year. Some 'taxi' runs coming up over the new year so she will be in tip top shape.

Thanks for following this thread.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update:

254,380 miles, four new Yokohama Geolander GO15 A/T tyres have been fitted after my cordial meeting with the product manager of Yokohama Iberia, his goodwill gesture went a long way to repairing customer relations.

First impressions:

The tyres are heavier that the GO12, specs on different sites show the '15' to be around a couple of kilo's heavier but it feels more. Sidewalls feel stronger/stiffer when the tyres are side by side, you have to allow for a couple of thousand miles of use on the '12's. Despite the heavier weight they balanced up easier than the '12's, unsure why that would be but it is a fact.

Initial driving impression is the car feels more 'connected' with the road. Yes I know that is a subjective term, but the GO15's seem to be a little more responsive to smaller steering inputs than the '12'. There is more noticeable 'thump' over road irregularities but again the tyres are new, but is this a result of the stiffer sidewall? No noticeable difference in road noise on smoother surfaces, I will run them in gently over the next couple of weeks and see how they go.

regards

Dave

 

[alia176]

Good feedback Dave. I'm considering a set of these G015 for the 4Runner but in P metric, not in LT. I'm aiming for lighter weight on this go around. I'll check back to see how your tires are aging.

 

[Dave 2000]

Good feedback Dave. I'm considering a set of these G015 for the 4Runner but in P metric, not in LT. I'm aiming for lighter weight on this go around. I'll check back to see how your tires are aging.

Thanks for the reply, I will give feedback again when I get a few miles on the new boots, I my diary shows me staying on the tarmac for the next few weeks but will get some 'campo' time is asap.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

15/01/2017 @254,540 miles.

The recent rain has shown that the rear sliding window rubbers have finally given in against the ravages of time, my tool roll tucked in the left hand rear wing was damp, and there was a puddle in the rubber jack mount. So, I slid each window open and run a bead of black silicone around each, then closed them tight. Made it look as tidy as possible, if nothing else it should help keep the inner rear wings dry. A word of caution, there are drain holes in the lower area of the window surround, make sure they stay clear when adding the sealer.

I will get some more time on the fan wiring, as per my normal 'mode of mod', try something and refine until it is as perfect as possible, I am doing some minor wiring revision, I had immobilised the earth to the switching relays via a switch inside the cabin however, the trinary switch is still able to bring on the fan for the AC if need be. Whilst I am unlikely to be working on the fan with the engine running but you never know, so that is to be addressed. Another wire came adrift from one of the relays on the kit I had purchased, I paid out for something to save some time and yet there have been now been three issues that could have been avoided with a little extra care during construction by the company, I will also be changing the relays for higher amperage versions, nothing wrong with those supplied but will upgrade them anyway......because I can.

As the engine cooling fan mod has been so successful, I have purchased a new unit to replace the second hand one I was using for test purposes. The used one can be hung on the garage wall, never know if it will be needed but it will be there all the same.

Other than that all is well, nothing to offer on the new tyres as I have been busy, looking to get up some mountains over the coming few days, there will only be about 400 miles on them by then so it will be a steady wander about up there.


regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Hi Kev, somehow missed this post of yours, got to say mate that looks hot! Would I like to do that to my car 80.................ABSOLUTLY!!

That does look the 'mutts nuts' mate, is that something you have seen in the flesh or a picture from elsewhere? That has to be one of the neatest intercooler installs I have ever seen on an 80.

When I see things like that it makes me think about returning to the UK to get away from the bureaucracy.....na.....just joking, but if I get bored after getting the welding done, the two new solar panels, the possible change (again) of tyres, the...and the..oh...and that and........

You know what I mean mate.

Going to see Yokohama rep Monday am, then the welding man, then prep up for the ITV due the following week.

Take it easy,

regards

Dave

Hi Dave. sorry for super slow response, have been just using it and not working on it last couple of months..

the intercooler is something I only saw pics of on the UK LC Facebook group, and he just doesnt get back to me about prices Im thinking the guy made one or two test ones and has probably been swamped by "me, me me" requests lol.

this week I finally got round to the front Axle rebuild, all news CVs, wheel bearings, seals and hub flanges, plus discs and pads both sides, plus new UJs in the front driveshaft.

my noises are noticeably better, no clicking at full lock, even if I dab the throttle.. which is great as I can finally take her out properly rock crawling without fear of ripping a CV out halfway up a remote hill.

there is however still a little of that "whoop whoop" rotary noise there. boo. still have rear D/S to do, maybe that's the last of it, or maybe its still a noisy front diff, or transfer case bearing, or or.. maybe it's just tyre noise lol. anyway, she feels rock solid now, much better. hoping to get the OME 2861/2 s fitted in the next week or two.

hows the winter treating you, did you get any snow driving in yet?

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

Hi Dave,

I've been following your modification with great interest and am now contemplating fitting an electric fan or fans to my 80 which is virtually the same spec as yours was when you started, even down to the excellent colour, though mine is an auto. Your efforts and expertise are an inspiration and greatly appreciated by me at least.

Firstly I'd be very grateful if you would share whatever research you did into fan sizing and the process that led to the choice of fans you made. Secondly, it seems to me to be logical that the temperature switch would work better and more consistently in the top hose, particularly in an auto where additional heat is dumped into the bottom of the radiator from the gearbox. It is, after all, the temperature of the water leaving the engine that needs to be controlled. You mentioned an intention to add a "low water" sensor to the top hose, was this the only reason for fit ting the temperature switches in the bottom house and would you do the same layout again if you were starting again?

How useful in reality is the two speed fan, are there real world improved results as compared with using, or wiring for, a single speed?
Cheers
John

 

[kevsta]

Hi John.

Im not an expert like Dave, but as the lower hose feeds back into the thermostat housing, there is no flow through the engine until running temperature is reached there and the stat opens, but if you had your switch in the top hose, presumably it might get quite warm there, prior to the stat opening, and the fan could potentially be kicking in before the stat has even opened?

Hi Dave. hope all's ok amigo, not seen you around for a while..

Hi Dave,

I've been following your modification with great interest and am now contemplating fitting an electric fan or fans to my 80 which is virtually the same spec as yours was when you started, even down to the excellent colour, though mine is an auto. Your efforts and expertise are an inspiration and greatly appreciated by me at least.

Firstly I'd be very grateful if you would share whatever research you did into fan sizing and the process that led to the choice of fans you made. Secondly, it seems to me to be logical that the temperature switch would work better and more consistently in the top hose, particularly in an auto where additional heat is dumped into the bottom of the radiator from the gearbox. It is, after all, the temperature of the water leaving the engine that needs to be controlled. You mentioned an intention to add a "low water" sensor to the top hose, was this the only reason for fit ting the temperature switches in the bottom house and would you do the same layout again if you were starting again?

John

 

[kevsta]

Hi Dave. getting a bit worried about you now amigo, hope all ok.

It's been all go here on the Cruiser for a while now, she's getting there, but still more stuff in the "to fit" pile.

So the list goes..

All new UJs front and rear driveshafts

2 x front hub rebuilds with all new (Terrain Tamer kit) seals, wheel bearings, Birfields and drive flanges, plus new discs and pads..

3 weeks of frame, suspension and axle wire brushing / de-rusting and painting (more pics here)

OME 2861 / 2862 coils fitted, with 15mm (rear) and 20mm (front) spacers, new Tokico shocks at rear, the front are 3 years old.

from this

to this

I also have these to go on at a later date, Pedders Foam Cell Front & Rear Shock Absorber Kit 0-2"

but lets get her through the next ITV first, the OME coils are black, and with OEM Toyota shocks on, shouldn't really look too "modified", with any luck, the lift is quite subtle, about 1.25 inches, and back to a very slight stinkbug look with the extra 200kg onboard.

but the difference to drive is just unbelievable, from sagged and beaten, to firm, solid and strong over bumps, and offroad (took her rock crawling last night) is a whole different world to how she was before. very very very happy

have to make another post now as have reached maximum pic limit..

 

[kevsta]

As I said, I took her out on some steep bumpy stuff last night, and for the first time ever (I was in L1 letting her roll under engine braking down some 40 degree slopes) the AT temp warning came on, so it looks like shipping the oil cooler from the US (on but not plumbed yet) was a good idea, all that time ago, as it can be made to overheat. I just let her idle for a couple of mins and it went off, and didn't come back on again, but am glad to be already in the process of upgrading this.

and some interior stuff and comforts too. (engine side, same as the one for the utility battery at rear)) voltmeter and phone charge socket on console.

a great little device that plugs in the cigarette lighter, bluetooths into a phone, and re-transmits the signal as FM that you tune your radio into. cheap and works extremely well.

Plus a phone holder that fits into the never-used DVD slot on the stereo, and allows you to angle the phone nicely towards you (for Google Maps GPS obviously, not Youtube documentaries while on the move..

and I fitted a dog guard, from eBay, that Im not super happy with, but will do. returning it from here is too much hassle. basically it's just too small, it was supposed to be for an 80 series, but Im not convinced. On the plus side it is fairly sturdy compared to some of those cheap ones, the fixings are all decent metal and it doesn't flex or vibrate, so I can live with it.

I think Im going to support it at the top corners with some wire rope to the rear grab handles too though, as the full weight of 2 big dogs on only the headrest supports in an accident wouldnt work out well.

so yea, we're cracking on this side of the Med, what are you up to? hope all good amigo

kevsta