brian
SILVER Star
hummm? fuse block insulator, interesting.
Builds My Hawaiian 1975 Fj40 Resto-resurrection
- Thread starter Aloha Jen
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
Yes, mine had one behind the fuse block when i removed it, but partially disintegrated when unbolted. According to ToyotaMatt, they came from the factory with a white plastic insulator pad, but I forget the OEM part number he referenced.
- Thread starter
- #183
With the radio and dash wiring all squared away, the front heater box could be installed. My brass heater pipes going coming through the firewall to the heater box were a mess. Very corroded and black insulation was falling off when touched. Even though my 40 had a rear heater, I salvaged the heater pipes off of my other 40 that most likely didn’t come with a rear heater as it was original to Hawaii. Those brass heater pipes do not have the extra down pipes that go to the rear. Since I will never use the rear heater here in Hawaii, these unique pipes were perfect.
I used the same salt and vinegar dip to clean the brass pipes and they came out spectacular. I ordered some inexpensive 13mm ID foam rubber insulation for the heater pipes. Below is the stuff I ordered if anyone needs the details. It’s 6 feet, so may be long enough to do rear heater pipes as well.
Had to break out the good stuff to get through this next part.
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Settle down Moderators, it’s just a little J&J baby powder
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When applied to the outside of the brass pipe and inside the foam insulation, the insulation slides right on the brass pipes so easily. A little compressed air shot through after clears out most of the baby powder.
I used the same salt and vinegar dip to clean the brass pipes and they came out spectacular. I ordered some inexpensive 13mm ID foam rubber insulation for the heater pipes. Below is the stuff I ordered if anyone needs the details. It’s 6 feet, so may be long enough to do rear heater pipes as well.
Had to break out the good stuff to get through this next part.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Settle down Moderators, it’s just a little J&J baby powder
.When applied to the outside of the brass pipe and inside the foam insulation, the insulation slides right on the brass pipes so easily. A little compressed air shot through after clears out most of the baby powder.
- Thread starter
- #184
With the brass heater pipes all prepped, I could finally install the pearl of my restoration. The shiny new(ish) and fully functional front heater box I restored about 6 months ago. It had been waiting patiently collecting dust for way to long.
It’s such a beautiful and weird little piece of the Fj40, I love it! Even though it won’t get used nearly at all in my year round tropical weather here, I may need the defrost function to work at some point for the windshield. All new Metric Overland mounting hardware was used, new rubber drain down pipes from City Racer were installed, and defrost vent pipes were cleaned and installed.
Front dash area is really starting to come together. The long plastic heater duct in front of the passenger seat was also cleaned up and installed. I used Fluid Film spray on the defrost and heater ducting as a final polish on the plastic pieces. They turned out great. Thanks to @wngrog for the fluid film tip, I actually used it in all the black plastic dash knobs/parts.
It’s such a beautiful and weird little piece of the Fj40, I love it! Even though it won’t get used nearly at all in my year round tropical weather here, I may need the defrost function to work at some point for the windshield. All new Metric Overland mounting hardware was used, new rubber drain down pipes from City Racer were installed, and defrost vent pipes were cleaned and installed.
Front dash area is really starting to come together. The long plastic heater duct in front of the passenger seat was also cleaned up and installed. I used Fluid Film spray on the defrost and heater ducting as a final polish on the plastic pieces. They turned out great. Thanks to @wngrog for the fluid film tip, I actually used it in all the black plastic dash knobs/parts.
1911
chupacabra
+1 on the CorrosionX, I use it on all my firearms; excellent product. Never considered using it on my vehicles, but that is a great idea!
RevISK
SILVER Star
As an anti-seize/penetrant, it is silly good. I only break bolts when I don’t use it.
Man. That looks better than new. Nice work
- Thread starter
- #188
Thanks! I am a huge fan of all your builds, so that really means a lot coming from you.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Great work Jen!
That rig is coming along.
That rig is coming along.
40s looking great, putting the rest of us mere mortals to shame... 
I'm also very impressed by the fuse block... it made me consider fixing mine for a brief moment... but I've got a new harness sitting in a drawer, and mine is hacked to bits. At least now I know how to clean up any bits and pieces that I am salvaging out of the original harness.
I'm also very impressed by the fuse block... it made me consider fixing mine for a brief moment... but I've got a new harness sitting in a drawer, and mine is hacked to bits. At least now I know how to clean up any bits and pieces that I am salvaging out of the original harness.
Thought I’d share some pics I shot last year…
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And a couple pics of my pups on the other side of the pond…
Very sad this is gone. Unfortunately all that's left of this area are high resolution pictures.
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Deleted.. my error
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- Thread starter
- #197
Next focus was the fuel tank/system. The original fuel tank was rusty inside and out and had a thick sludge on the bottom. It also appeared to be patched in a few places, so a solution was needed.
As some of you may already know, I acquired another Fj40 last year. It was found in an abandoned chicken barn and had been sitting there the last 13 years.
It’s a 1978 Fj40 that was in a million pieces. The price was too good, so it was trailered back to my house. That build “The Chicken Barn 40” will be sometime in the future. The reason o bring it up is because it came with a fuel tank that had been sitting in the dirt for a very long time.
I didn’t think much of it at the time, but when the original tank we had this build was inspected and found to be unusable, we looked at this chicken barn fuel tank as an option. To our surprise, the inside of it was in extremely good condition with only minor surface rust and a few dead bee’s.
It was so surprising how clean it was inside and became the replacement tank for the ‘75! Rigged up a 2 foot length of heater hose to the end of my shop vac and was able to get out all the dust and dead bees from inside. The outside of the tank was thoroughly cleaned with purple power degreaser. The surface rust on the outside was given a once over with a wire brush, followed by an application of Ospho that we let sit for 24 hours.
Most of the rust as eaten up by the Ospho acid treatment or had turned a nice black (I think I remember that it turns into iron phosphate when treated). After letting the tank react with acid treatment for a day, it was wiped down with acetone to ready it for some self etching primer and a coat of satin black paint.
As some of you may already know, I acquired another Fj40 last year. It was found in an abandoned chicken barn and had been sitting there the last 13 years.
It’s a 1978 Fj40 that was in a million pieces. The price was too good, so it was trailered back to my house. That build “The Chicken Barn 40” will be sometime in the future. The reason o bring it up is because it came with a fuel tank that had been sitting in the dirt for a very long time.
I didn’t think much of it at the time, but when the original tank we had this build was inspected and found to be unusable, we looked at this chicken barn fuel tank as an option. To our surprise, the inside of it was in extremely good condition with only minor surface rust and a few dead bee’s.
It was so surprising how clean it was inside and became the replacement tank for the ‘75! Rigged up a 2 foot length of heater hose to the end of my shop vac and was able to get out all the dust and dead bees from inside. The outside of the tank was thoroughly cleaned with purple power degreaser. The surface rust on the outside was given a once over with a wire brush, followed by an application of Ospho that we let sit for 24 hours.
Most of the rust as eaten up by the Ospho acid treatment or had turned a nice black (I think I remember that it turns into iron phosphate when treated). After letting the tank react with acid treatment for a day, it was wiped down with acetone to ready it for some self etching primer and a coat of satin black paint.
- Thread starter
- #198
A couple coats of paint and the tank looks beautiful again, ready for another 20 years of service!
With the tank all freashened up, I could dig into the box of parts I have been collecting over the years for this very moment. New OEM fuel gauge and new rubber gasket for it. New filler neck rubber hose is a reproduction part from City Racer, looks to be very good quality.
Also cleaned up the original metal filler neck. It was in near pristine condition on the inside of the pipe with the original zinc plating still doing it job. The outside was dirty and had some rust. Cleaned, treated the rust with Ospho, then tried something I had used on some other rusty items in the past. Brushed a thin layer of Penetrol over the outside of it. Let it dry, then another thin coat. I think it will help preserve the metal and stop it from rusting for a long time. Also cut out and made a thin rubber gasket where the neck meets the tub and test fitted a new OEM fuel cap.
I used some 1/8” roll of heavy duty rubber to make some insulating pads on the bottom of the tank as well as some strips of rubber for the top of the tank to go between the fuel tank cover.
The final step will be to replace all the rubber fuel lines going and coming to the tank. Also have a new OEM filter going in as well.
Before all that, will use some compressed air to clear/clean out all the hard lines running back from the fuel pump to the tank. All the lines from the fuel pump to carburetor were cleaned out previously.
With the tank all freashened up, I could dig into the box of parts I have been collecting over the years for this very moment. New OEM fuel gauge and new rubber gasket for it. New filler neck rubber hose is a reproduction part from City Racer, looks to be very good quality.
Also cleaned up the original metal filler neck. It was in near pristine condition on the inside of the pipe with the original zinc plating still doing it job. The outside was dirty and had some rust. Cleaned, treated the rust with Ospho, then tried something I had used on some other rusty items in the past. Brushed a thin layer of Penetrol over the outside of it. Let it dry, then another thin coat. I think it will help preserve the metal and stop it from rusting for a long time. Also cut out and made a thin rubber gasket where the neck meets the tub and test fitted a new OEM fuel cap.
I used some 1/8” roll of heavy duty rubber to make some insulating pads on the bottom of the tank as well as some strips of rubber for the top of the tank to go between the fuel tank cover.
The final step will be to replace all the rubber fuel lines going and coming to the tank. Also have a new OEM filter going in as well.
Before all that, will use some compressed air to clear/clean out all the hard lines running back from the fuel pump to the tank. All the lines from the fuel pump to carburetor were cleaned out previously.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Jen you may want to use fuel injected hose instead of regular fuel line. The fuel injected hose stands up to ethanol longer.
Nice work as always! I just went through this on my '75 as well but had to buy a New OEM tank. You saved quite a bit of money going with the good used tank. Is there any advantage to going with the later model plastic fuel filter vs the original metal one for that year?
